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| Joystick advice: shortest throw, natively/moddable into top fire |
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| rCadeGaming:
Modding the activator is common, but you have to change throw as well. If you don't keep throw and engage to good proportions your engage zones will be all messed up. |
| Retrieving:
--- Quote from: CpCaveman on March 26, 2013, 01:46:49 pm ---a cheap way (is there any other? :) ) put a tight rubber washer/grommet around where your "stick" activates the switches, of the size that "feels" right for what you want, the movement would be the same but would make the distance to activation shorter, without having to change anything, once you have it set right dot glue it in place (easily scraped off the metal shaft later if needed). --- End quote --- I did mod the actuator and the portion of the shaft that hits the restrictor on my JLJ with industrial grade rubber bands (they're tiny spare parts for cars) large enough to wrap them, problem is that they tend to wear out within a month of daily usage (I've got to try those heat shrink things sometimes) and past a certain thickness the whole thing just won't fit the curved corners of the square restrictor anymore and they'll make hitting diagonals a whole lot harder, if not flat out unfeasible...unfortunately this happens way before the throw distance is completely filled out. Why don't they just make sticks like this anymore? It's such a simple yet brilliant, reliable and effective design: ...but seriously, what's with top of the line Sanwa and Seimitsu joysticks (which may cost up to 100 Euro each, like the JLJ-MI) still having quite a lot of throw distance past activation, what's the purpose? Is sloppyness somehow perceived as a feature over there in Japan? |
| rCadeGaming:
Think out what an engage zone is and what creates it when using only four microswitches for eight directions. Without a significant difference between engage and throw distances, there is little to no engage area for diagonals. The throw distance isn't arbitrary, it's specifically engineered to try and allocate roughly equalivalent areas between the diagonals and the cardinal directions. |
| CpCaveman:
make the hole the joystick comes through smaller/lower the joystick base (chock it down) until its what you want THEN get the stick to trigger, get the feel you want with a few pieces of scrapwood and trial and error , sorry i mean... inhibit the throw with a reduced aperture of the dimensions required, then modify the actuator to activate inputs accordingly. :) if the hole is already there can be made smaller with self adhesive rubber, it`ll be covered by the joystick washer/dustguard, all depends on how important it is, there`s 101 ways to get the result you want |
| Gray_Area:
--- Quote from: rCadeGaming on March 25, 2013, 06:37:11 pm ---That wouldn't be accurate to how it feels. It has to be measured at the center of the gripping area to provide useful data, meaning how far you have to actually move your hand. --- End quote --- My god, all this dirty talk! Okay, Archer has me on fire lately. Um. Anyways.....dude, if you have the tools, why not make your own base and shaft? The rest you can source. |
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