Mission Control Project: 5 years on, what to do with the leftovers?

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DrewKaree:

--- Quote from: Pixelhugger on December 01, 2005, 05:29:13 pm ---
I'm not at all happy with the almost amber color of the tungsten "white" stock lamp that Happ ships with these buttons. So I guess I'm gonna have to moonlight some more and but the white wedge LEDs they offer.

--- End quote ---

What about checking that "All you could possibly need for LED's" site that's constantly recommended around here? I KNOW when I checked that site out, they had replacement LED's for all kinds of stuff. I bet they also have some nicer "Ice white" led's than Happs. Sometimes the white isn't "white", and I bet they're cheaper than Happs too.

DrewKaree:
What've you used to polish it? Was it hazy from the start, or how'd it get that way in the first place? I've used Meguiar's Scratch-X on some CD's and my cell phone's outer display with excellent success for "removing" scratches, but I dunno why your lexan would be hazy in the first place.

markrvp:
The button lights are 12v and it appears you are only using 9v? That would make the light output warmer (just like dimming tungsten lights). Try 12v. That will make the output brighter and the light's color temperature should cool a bit.

I'm sure you know this, but tungsten lights (like in those buttons) have a color temperature of approximately 3200 degrees Kelvin. Light used for color matching is typically 5000 degrees Kelvin (a D50 fluorescent tube). If you end up getting LEDs, try getting something that is between 5000 - 6500 degrees Kelvin. Also, when lighting your marquee, use a Daylight balanced fluorescent tube. If you use the regular tubes that come in the shoplights or under-the-counter fixtures (at 4500 degrees Kelvin) your blue Marquee will appear purple.

Brax:
Redrilling the CP?

Are you going to get rid of the mouse button too or planning to leave it?

Once I discovered you could use mouse buttons for fire buutons I had to change my layout. In my opinion a cabinet looks a whole lot sleeker and "arcade like" when the mouse button is invisible.

Pixelhugger:
DK- I used a plastic polishing compound I got at the plastic store and buffed it using both an electric drill and dremel with polishing wheels. I think it's hazing up since the super super fine scratches from the polishing are too soft too buff out. I think they're just getting "buffed around" if that makes sense. :-\ I tried a polish similar to Scratch - X but no luck. ARGH!

Mark- Just connected it to the proper voltage and sure enough the color temp cools waaay down. I wasn't sure what voltage these were and had a 9v handy so I figured I'd try. Man I was sure off. :P

Brax- Well, it's part of the artwork now. I actually don't mind it so much so I'll probably leave it.

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