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Author Topic: Project RetroCade - FINISHED  (Read 119191 times)

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EMDB

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Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« on: February 25, 2013, 06:26:12 pm »
Project RetroCade

After years of thinking about building my own Mame Cabinet I recently stumbled upon some building sites and decided to go ahead and live the dream.

I'll base my build on Project MAME by Rasmus Kønig Sørensen:



I also used the Google Sketchup drawings of this project done by Remco (ViperLook, in Dutch):

   


I think I will just name it RetroCade as I really like it and am in no need of a unique name. I will create my custom artwork though as I don't just want to order the standard RetroCade artwork being out there. For now i'm inspired by several builds on this forum like:


Scratch Build Custom Street Fighter Arcade Cabinet

and

Scratch - Marvel v Capcom: Revolution


I will not have that much time working on it and need to gain all kind of skills but i'm eager to learn.

I bought some MDF (I will use 15mm and 12mm)...



Drew the first side panel...



My first attempt was not a success as I tried to fully cut it out using the jigsaw. I messed up the smooth curves. I put too much pressure on the saw messing up the angle of the cut.  :angry:
After some more reading I figured I would use a router. I never touched a router before so this was an adventure on it's own. I'm no wood worker at all being a software engineer all my life...

I first roughly cut out the full shape using the jigsaw and afterwards used the router to trim it to its final shape. Routing was really easy and fun. I will use that baby a lot from now...

   

And there it is. The first part is done.



And then it started to snow and my workshop was not usable anymore.  :angry:

Time to do some more reading, planning and testdriving my Hyperspin setup. I Compiled my own version of MAME with highscores and no warning screens and fired up good old Donkey Kong. It must have been about 30 years ago I played that machine after my soccer practice. Still great fun. Even my kids enjoy it as much as their Wii and iPad.
« Last Edit: November 04, 2017, 08:42:52 am by EMDB »

leapinlew

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2013, 06:51:23 pm »
Even my kids enjoy it as much as their Wii and iPad.

Yeah? Well, give'em a minute...

I swear, those kids will play all 40 games in 10 minutes on my machine.

EMDB

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2013, 02:34:52 am »
I played around with Microsoft Image Composer to create some basic prototypes of the sideart. I know, it's a bit early after only cutting out the first side panel but I wanted to visualize some thoughts.

I fell in love with griffindodd's Marvel v Capcom: Revolution artwork and tried to reproduce it using the RetroCade title:

   

Then I tried some other background coloring and other characters:

   

Did a quick marquee too:



My son of 6 liked the first one (Red Marvel vs Capcom), my daughter of 4 the last (Yellow-Orange Nintendo). I'm not sure myself. The last is a bit more unique although that's not a big deal for me. Luckily I still have lots of time to decide...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:26:23 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2013, 05:04:13 am »
I like the last one better too...guess I think like a 4-year old girl...damn :(

EMDB

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2013, 12:33:18 pm »
Today I re-did the side panel. I did not like the curve below the control panel. Very small change but so much better. I'm glad I did it.

   

I then drew the dimensions of the first panel to the piece of MDF for the second and roughly cut it out with the jigsaw.



Now I need a copy-flush bit for my router to flush-copy the first one. I don't have one large enough. Let's hope my father-in-law has one...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:27:07 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2013, 12:56:54 pm »
I agree with you on the change. Good job!
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2013, 01:36:15 pm »
I like that you re-did the side panel, and I'm glad you're building from scratch.  Great work so far!

 :cheers:

EMDB

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Re: Yet another RetroCade build.
« Reply #7 on: February 27, 2013, 05:07:52 am »
I received the wheels and leg levelers. I have to figure out how mount them properly.



Picked up the remaining pieces of MDF. I had them cut to the correct sizes in the store where I bought them. Also got the rails for the keyboard drawer.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:27:37 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Yet another RetroCade.
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2013, 10:25:43 am »
I received the speakers and Amplifier. 2-way 80 watt Car speakers and a 12V 2 x 50 watt amplifier should be sufficient:



So I routed the holes in the speaker panel:



Perfect fit...

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:28:05 pm by EMDB »

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Yet another RetroCade.
« Reply #9 on: March 04, 2013, 03:29:32 pm »
Today I finished the bottom plate:

   

   

   

The wheels stick out the back a bit to let you tilt the cabinet to the back to easily move it (there will be a handle at the top of the back panel to pull it backwards to tilt). The levelers let you level the cabinet while standing and prevent it from moving.




Luckily my father-in-law had a flush-trim-copy bit so the next step will be to copy the second side panel...

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:29:05 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Yet another RetroCade.
« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2013, 03:36:41 pm »
I really like your bottom plate there!  :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2013, 10:45:37 am »
Copy time. I Put the two sides on top of each other and use the flush copy bit to exactly match the second side with the first.

   

Fast and easy with very nice result.

   

Twins  :D



I ordered some samples of 15mm T-molding (which seems kinda rare) at ArcadeWorldUk to see what slot cutter I need to route the T-moulding...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:30:05 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #12 on: March 10, 2013, 01:12:10 pm »
I received the 15mm T-moulding samples and made a 2mm slot test cut with a slot cutter I could borrow. I could apply the T-moulding with very little pressure. It will definitely not stick.  :angry: So I decided to order a 1/16" slot cutter bit online. The shipping was way more expensive than the bit itself  :angry:



Started on the front panel holding the coin door. I bought a double coin door with only one mech. The coin mech works fine with 50 eurocent coins. I drew the dimensions using a beer glass for the corners.

   

Now waiting for better weather to be able to work in my outdoor workshop again.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:30:34 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2013, 06:09:01 pm »
While awaiting better weather (it started snowing again yesterday) and my slot cutter bit I did some work inside. Bought a Dell Optiplex 745 (Core2Duo 1.87Mhz 2GB Ram) PC on marktplaats (our local ebay in the Netherlands), put in a 2gig SATA disc I had laying around and a decent video card (Radeon 5450) and installed Windows 8 (including StarDock's Start8 as I can't live without the good-old start button :)).

   

I copied Hyperspin (with the configuration I already did on my PC) and gave it a try. Hyperspin launched but did not go into the MAME sub menu. I could not figure out what was going wrong as exactly the same config worked smooth on my PC. Was it Windows 8? Google finally helped me (as always): Hyperspin won't work without speakers connected  :angry: When I first read the solution I thought I was being played but I found the same solution on several other sites so I decided to give it a try. Hyperspin and MAME worked like a charm...



Then I started thinking about my Control Panel layout. I want 2 players, 7 buttons each, 1 and 2 players buttons and 4 admin buttons. Coin buttons I do not need as I have my coin door with mech. I probably add some secret shifted coin button bypass if I run out of 50 eurocent coins myself ;D. Maybe I'll add some pinball buttons to the sides too.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:31:11 pm by EMDB »

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #14 on: March 13, 2013, 04:58:14 pm »
Today I drilled the holes in the CP and cut out the hole in the front plate for the coin door.

   

I knew I should not have used the 8 button layout template although I was certain I would not drill the 8th hole. I drilled from two sides to make the cuts smooth but had the panel upside down when I did the first part and skipped the wrong button position. Well some MDF putty will hide my mistake  ;D



The coin door fits perfectly.

   

I like the layout of my CP. The black buttons will be admin buttons. 4 will be plenty but you never know...



Now I have the think how to mount the sticks. I don't want to mount them sunken on the top as I don't wan't to cover them with putty so I can not re-use them if I want to change the CP.

I'm thinking about routering a sunken part of about 10mm from the bottom and fixate the sticks with a bracket so no bolts or whatever will be visible from the top. Any thoughts, examples or other options?
« Last Edit: March 05, 2018, 01:45:34 am by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #15 on: March 13, 2013, 05:44:41 pm »
Your choice of top-mounted + countersunk T-nuts (a.k.a. tee nuts) or threaded inserts from below.

   

One word of warning, the GGG insert screws stick out the back of the inserts a little when used with a metal mounting-plate joystick like yours or the Zippyy.

If the routed area is already shallow enough for that to make a difference, you'll probably want to use the tee nuts.


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #16 on: March 13, 2013, 06:54:51 pm »
Your choice of top-mounted + countersunk T-nuts (a.k.a. tee nuts) or threaded inserts from below.

One word of warning, the GGG insert screws stick out the back of the inserts a little when used with a metal mounting-plate joystick like yours or the Zippyy.

If the routed area is already shallow enough for that to make a difference, you'll probably want to use the tee nuts.


Scott
Thanks. Do you have images of mounted plates as I can not understand how these work exactly.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #17 on: March 14, 2013, 02:30:35 pm »
Your choice of top-mounted + countersunk T-nuts (a.k.a. tee nuts) or threaded inserts from below.

One word of warning, the GGG insert screws stick out the back of the inserts a little when used with a metal mounting-plate joystick like yours or the Zippyy.

If the routed area is already shallow enough for that to make a difference, you'll probably want to use the tee nuts.


Scott
Thanks. Do you have images of mounted plates as I can not understand how these work exactly.

GGG inserts look like this when installed -- bottom view.



Tee-nuts installed from the top look like this -- top view.



If you don't use plexiglass over your CP, you will want to use bondo (or similar) to make a smooth surface over the tee-nuts for your overlay.


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #18 on: March 16, 2013, 02:20:48 pm »
Looks good and nice start! I noticed a lot of people are using MDF instead of Melamine. How does that work with wrapping graphics around it? Do you have to do some prepping to the wood?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #19 on: March 16, 2013, 05:19:34 pm »
Looks good and nice start! I noticed a lot of people are using MDF instead of Melamine. How does that work with wrapping graphics around it? Do you have to do some prepping to the wood?
MDF is really easy to route, drill, cut and sand. It has a very fine structure so it does not splinter. A lot of furniture is made of (spray painted) MDF over here in Europe.

I will paint the whole cabinet and put artwork on the CP and sides.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2013, 07:18:50 pm »
So after you spray paint it and wrap it the wrap wont have any texture to it?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #21 on: March 17, 2013, 05:33:24 am »
I will not spray paint but just paint with a roller but the surface will be completely flat without any texture.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2013, 09:51:22 am »
Where did you source those wheels / feet?

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2013, 03:29:32 pm »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #24 on: March 17, 2013, 03:39:31 pm »
ArcadeEmulator.net also carries them, if you want to order from a U.S. source.

Gary, the guy who runs the site, is also a regular here on the forums -- username Divemaster127.

His B/S/T thread is here.


Scott
« Last Edit: March 17, 2013, 03:49:55 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #25 on: March 24, 2013, 04:00:17 pm »
I finally found some time to work on the mounting of the joysticks.

First I routed a 12 mm recess at the bottom side of the CP. The CP is 15 mm thick. Perfect fitt for the joystick.

   

Filled up with small blocks of MDF just a tiny bit above level with the CP.



I had my brother made two metal plates to shut in the joysticks.

   



Mounted without any bolts or other visible stuff on the top of the CP and easily removable without any damage, putty or whatsoever...  8)

   

Next up: routing for T-moulding.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:34:18 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #26 on: March 24, 2013, 05:29:07 pm »
Mounted without any bolts or other visible stuff on the top of the CP and easily removable without any damage, putty or whatsoever...  8)

Nice plate.  :applaud:

Please tell me you aren't using wood screws to hold the plate to the MDF.   :dizzy:

Wood screws into MDF *might* seem to work the first time, but they *will* shred it to fibers and strip out easily when you remove/reinstall or re-tighten them.

If you used the threaded inserts and machine screws mentioned earlier around the perimeter of the plate, it will work fine for many dis-assembly / re-assembly cycles.


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade (in progress).
« Reply #27 on: March 24, 2013, 05:43:05 pm »
Please tell me you aren't using wood screws to hold the plate to the MDF.   :dizzy:
They aren't regular wood screws *and* I will fixate them with glue after final mounting. The will not be disassembled afterwards but if I decide to redo the CP after some test driving I can easily do so. And with this way of mounting the stick is only 3 mm (less than 1/8") below the CP surface.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #28 on: March 24, 2013, 06:34:43 pm »
Regardless of what kind of thread geometry a screw has, with MDF you can only tighten it reliably ONCE.   :banghead:

When you loosen and retighten any thread geometry in MDF it pulps and strips it.

Also keep in mind that anything mechanical like a joystick will eventually break down or require alignment.

Which scenario sounds better to you?

1. Being able to remove and reinstall a handful of machine screws from threaded inserts to swap a joystick without damaging the MDF because the inserts stay properly tightened into the MDF.

2. Having to remake/refinish/re-CPO the entire CP because the joystick mount screws stripped out.

You might not have to face #2 for a while, but using screws directly in MDF makes it a guaranteed eventual outcome.


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #29 on: March 24, 2013, 06:52:14 pm »
Regardless of what kind of thread geometry a screw has, with MDF you can only tighten it reliably ONCE.   :banghead:

When you loosen and retighten any thread geometry in MDF it pulps and strips it.
I will reconsider mounting the plate with machine screws and inserts. Thanks for your persistence  ::)
« Last Edit: March 25, 2013, 02:52:38 am by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #30 on: March 25, 2013, 05:27:14 pm »
I had my brother made two metal plates to shut in the joysticks.

   



That is brilliant. I mounted mine from underneath as well but could only route about 5mm rather then the 12 or so that you have been able to route. I would definitely second the inserts, I am so glad that I used them for my joystick. 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #31 on: March 26, 2013, 01:58:42 pm »
Very clever stick mounting! :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #32 on: March 27, 2013, 05:56:11 pm »
I finally found inserts in a local hardware store. I tried 5 mm ones but the 8 mm I had to drill to fit them in and the holes of the previous screws screwed up the MDF around the routed area of the joystick  :angry:

So I created another CP, drilled all 22 holes and routed the two joystick areas. I'm getting pretty handy with this  ;D This time I used 4 mm inserts and tried them on a spare piece of MDF first. All went well so I dared to put them in my just finished CP. It was quite easy and now I have joysticks which are easy and safe to remove multiple times. Thanks again PL1 for pointing this out!

   

   



I received my Slot cutter but the 1/4" (6.3 mm) shank does not fit in my router which can only take 6 or 8 mm shanks  :o  I asked my brother to let the shank be reduced to exactly 6 mm. So still no T-molding routing...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:40:55 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #33 on: March 27, 2013, 07:10:19 pm »
Sorry it took so much extra effort to get the inserts working, but the latest revision looks really good.   :cheers:


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #34 on: April 01, 2013, 03:30:35 pm »
Today I did the routing for the t-moulding on the side panels and the CP. It was quite easy, once using the right tools.

   



My kids did some Hyperspin testdriving. I think the setup will work just fine on the actual machine...

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:41:45 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - (slowly) In progress...
« Reply #35 on: April 03, 2013, 10:21:19 am »
Today I "framed" the first side panel. It was quite a puzzle to measure and fit everything. I had to deviate from the original design to not let the marquee retainers stick out, better position the plate to cover the monitor and leave the bottom of the CP off to be able to reach the CP clamp I want to use...

   
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:42:13 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #36 on: April 05, 2013, 04:15:21 pm »
I framed the second side panel. I'd better drilled the holes for the bars through both panels at once. Now I had to re-measure (and mirror) everything again. After some corrections they now match perfectly.



I couldn't resist quickly assembly the main parts to get a first glance on how my cab will actually look. I really like the shape and the actual size  :applaud:

   

From this first impression I noticed the plate the monitor is going to be mounted on has to be a bit higher than the original design. Both Rasmus and Remco used a 19" 4:3 one, I scored a 21.4" 4:3 Samsung SyncMaster 214T. Those large size 4:3 monitors are becoming quite rare here in the Netherlands.



I'm not sure whether to first mount the drawer and CP clamps or just assemble everything and mount them afterwards...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:42:56 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #37 on: April 09, 2013, 12:05:01 am »
Looking very good so far.

I have some comments

1) The art, I like the last one the best...with Pac-Man, Yoshi, Donkey Kong, etc.

2) Good job on swithing out the screws on the joysticks with the inserts. I will be using T-nuts myself on my build, but I did consider those same inserts.

3) Why did you go out of your way to install windows 8 for the build? Seems like windows 8 will be more of a hassle, when if comes it hiding windows when everything is done. Are you going to try and hide windows?

4) have you decided what the 4 admin buttons are gonna be? I assume one will be pause and one exit, what about the other two?

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #38 on: April 09, 2013, 04:14:20 am »
Looking very good so far.

I have some comments

1) The art, I like the last one the best...with Pac-Man, Yoshi, Donkey Kong, etc.

2) Good job on swithing out the screws on the joysticks with the inserts. I will be using T-nuts myself on my build, but I did consider those same inserts.

3) Why did you go out of your way to install windows 8 for the build? Seems like windows 8 will be more of a hassle, when if comes it hiding windows when everything is done. Are you going to try and hide windows?

4) have you decided what the 4 admin buttons are gonna be? I assume one will be pause and one exit, what about the other two?
1) I'm not sure about the artwork. I was just playing a bit. Maybe it will be completely something else.
3) I had a Windows 8 USB installer laying around. And Windows 8 boots very fast. I did not look into hiding windows yet. I want to start HyperSpin as Windows Shell in stead of the desktop as I did with XBMC on my media center PC.
4) I did not decide yet. ESC and Pause and probably some menu options (F2 or TAB in MAME, but I want to run some console emulators from my youth like Atari 2600, Sega Megadrive ans Super Nintendo  too) I will probably add some more "hidden" (black) buttons on the small panel below the CP and flipper buttons on the side too. You never know...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #39 on: April 11, 2013, 08:29:06 am »
After all preparation work I could finally start assembling. Almost everything fitted as designed and with a little bit of adapting i'm quite happy with the result...

   

   

Mounted to monitor to get an even better impression. It could have been even bigger but I think 21.4" is the biggest size 4:3 around?

   

After some small additions (pinball buttons on the side panels and two extra Admin buttons on the panel below the CP) I can get started puttying, grinding and adding some layers of primer. That seems to be the least fun part of the project...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:44:08 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #40 on: April 11, 2013, 04:38:23 pm »
Did some short test driving. The wheels and levelers are awesome. It moves around easily once tilted to the back but when standing it is rock solid.

The total height and control panel height (although still played with a keyboard) is ok but when playing the monitor is too low. The angle seems fine. I can very easily move it up a bit though, it's just mounted by 4 machine screws in the monitor back plate as the monitor has standard VESA 100 x 100 mounting...

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:46:41 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #41 on: April 13, 2013, 01:38:37 pm »
Today I did some small modifications to the cabinet. First of all I had to correct a design flaw: The cabinet could not be tilted enough to move it around. The back of the bottom construction is not the absolute back as the bottom back plate (actually a door) will be mounted behind it. Therefore the wheels did not stick out enough. I fixed it by removing a small part of the bottom side panel at the back. Now I can tilt it almost horizontal...



While I was busy I added some holes for the pinball buttons and some extra admin buttons and added an extra cable guidance hole in the plate in the middle of the cabinet.

   



Then I checked the speakers and marquee light mounting. Perfect fit.

   
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:47:30 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #42 on: April 13, 2013, 04:10:47 pm »
Looks great but you may have a hard time fitting the T molding around those sharp angles. Skimmed the posts so don't know if this has been mentioned before.
Click a pic for a video tour 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #43 on: April 13, 2013, 04:35:00 pm »
Looks great but you may have a hard time fitting the T molding around those sharp angles. Skimmed the posts so don't know if this has been mentioned before.
I like the sharp angles but I am not sure the T-molding will fit. I plan to try and if it does not fit I will round the corners a bit. I read cutting away the part which go in the wood at the corners helps making real sharp corners. I'll make them as sharp as possible. Thanks for mentioning though...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #44 on: April 13, 2013, 04:46:11 pm »
It is possible to navigate 90degree corners with T-molding, and have it look nice.  Ensure the molding is warm and pliable prior to installing, this will make it conform easier.  Take a look at my build, I have exterior 90degree corners (not rounded at all) that worked out perfectly.  Interior corners would be trick, but still doable.  Good luck!

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=129725.0
« Last Edit: April 13, 2013, 04:49:16 pm by a1pharm »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #45 on: April 13, 2013, 05:02:29 pm »
That's good to know a1pharm. I never had any luck with T molding and angles, it always bulged and never lay flat.  :cheers:
Click a pic for a video tour 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #46 on: April 13, 2013, 05:22:20 pm »
Look at the snips I used with my T-molding.  I showed close-ups of how I snipped some of the ribbing off the molding.  You will almost always need to take off more ribbing than you think.  The 3mm section of molding that navigates the corner should be completely devoid of ribbing (you may even want to "dig" the ribbing out in that area - carefully) to prevent improper laying of the molding around the corner.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #47 on: April 18, 2013, 02:58:24 pm »
Some more beta testing. It seems the cabinet has just the perfect height for my kids... With some help from a chair  ;)

 

After a long evening of puttying all screw holes I wanted to use my morning off to sand down everything smoothly. Unfortunately my sanding machine stopped working after a few minutes.  :angry:  That will delay my tight schedule. I want my cab to be primed and fully working on April 28th when we celebrate my daughter's 5th birthday. My relatives pushed me as they want to revive their youth by playing pac-man or other retro games.

So today after work I bought a new sanding machine. Our local hardware store had 25% off on all electrical tools. In half an hour I had everything smoothened.

 

Tonight I will fill the remaining small irregularities and next weekend I will re-do the sanding. Leaves me with one week to apply 2 layers of primer. In parallel I applied the first layer of primer to the CP yesterday. Tonight the second layer so I can wire all buttons and joysticks this weekend.

I received 2 plates of 3mm fully transparent plexi for the marquee. I need to find some local replacement for the retainers a I think the shipping from the US is way too expensive compared to it's price. I also received a sample of 3mm grey 49% transmission high gloss plexi-glass (http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/NL/en/gs-allround-4aql41br8z4/plexiglas-gs-allround-grey-7c14-gt-dic33ry3pgp~p.html). It looks great when covering my monitor. I will definitely use that one in my cab!
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:48:58 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #48 on: April 18, 2013, 04:31:17 pm »
Looking like it is coming along very nicely mate. Some very nice work here. Hope to see it finished soon. :)

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #49 on: April 21, 2013, 02:41:32 pm »
I added a frame to the front panel to be able to mount the coin door. 12 mm was too thin to hold the clamps.

 



Then I wired the CP. Every micro switch connection is soldered and has an isolation sleeve.

 

 



I played a bit connected to my desktop computer. First impression is great. The Mag sticks are nice, button layout is great. I'm considering using the original red-yellow-green-blue coloring for the bottom row of buttons although I like the clean red and blue sections too. I never controlled MAME using joysticks/buttons, I have to get used to using my left hand for the stick and the right hand for the buttons, on a keyboard it is just the other way around.

I noticed I triggered Windows to rotate the screen with some key combinations while playing a 2 player fighting game  ???  I have to look into disabling this in Windows or define other keys in MAME. For now I use the defaults in MAME and the iPAC. The tool to program the iPAC is really nice. I will use the shift to get some hidden features like Windows Volume control, bypass the coin insert and maybe others.

Next up: applying two layers of primer to the cabinet. I see some people doing the full cabinet, inside and outside. I was planning to only do the visible parts.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:54:47 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #50 on: April 22, 2013, 07:23:51 am »
UPDATE: Sticky keys are very easily to disable in the Windows Control Panel. Furthermore it seems changing the orientation of your screen using the keyboard is a Video driver thing. I could disable the Hot keys (e.g. Ctrl-Alt+Arrow keys) in my Intel Graphics & Media Control Panel.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #51 on: April 22, 2013, 05:26:47 pm »
Sanded and fully cleaned with ammonia...  :dizzy:



Then applied the first layer of primer.

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:55:24 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #52 on: April 22, 2013, 05:56:38 pm »
I added a frame to the front panel to be able to mount the coin door. 12 mm was too thin to hold the clamps.

 



Then I wired the CP. Every micro switch connection is soldered and has an isolation sleeve.

 

 



I played a bit connected to my desktop computer. First impression is great. The Mag sticks are nice, button layout is great. I'm considering using the original red-yellow-green-blue coloring for the bottom row of buttons although I like the clean red and blue sections too. I never controlled MAME using joysticks/buttons, I have to get used to using my left hand for the stick and the right hand for the buttons, on a keyboard it is just the other way around.

I noticed I triggered Windows to rotate the screen with some key combinations while playing a 2 player fighting game  ???  I have to look into disabling this in Windows or define other keys in MAME. For now I use the defaults in MAME and the iPAC. The tool to program the iPAC is really nice. I will use the shift to get some hidden features like Windows Volume control, bypass the coin insert and maybe others.

Next up: applying two layers of primer to the cabinet. I see some people doing the full cabinet, inside and outside. I was planning to only do the visible parts.

The wiring and neatness of it is a huge plus for me. For something that isn't going to be seen when its built its easy to rush this bit. I've got to say, that is some very nice wiring under that CP. Beautiful my friend. Attention to detail 10/10.. Subbed this build now!!!!!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #53 on: April 22, 2013, 06:40:37 pm »
very nice :)

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #54 on: April 23, 2013, 02:41:59 pm »
CP mounting:

 

When mounted it can be reached (and photographed ;D ) via the drawer opening on the front below the CP.

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 01:56:07 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #55 on: April 23, 2013, 03:58:36 pm »
My next CP will definitely be hooked like this. My actual design will require screw on top, wich suck....  :embarassed:

Your cab looks great by the way!

Ben

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #56 on: April 24, 2013, 04:13:04 pm »
Sanded with very fine sandpaper, applied some more putty on last irregularities, sanded again, cleaned with ammonia :dizzy:

The surface is really smooth now. Then applied the 2nd layer of primer. This was much faster and more easy than the first one. The result looks very good. I think if this was the final layer of paint I would have been very happy.

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:08:25 pm by EMDB »

sabreerbasAlpha

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #57 on: April 24, 2013, 05:48:52 pm »
Almost there mate. Like I said before followed this from the start and cant wait to see it finished. Very nice work. Love that wiring under the CP  :notworthy:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #58 on: April 24, 2013, 05:50:40 pm »
I envy you guys who can paint like that. When I paint, it ends up not as nice as I would like. I sand, I use foam rollers and good paint, but still...
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #59 on: April 25, 2013, 06:34:22 pm »
I hear you yotsuya, I am the same way..  :banghead:
         

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Playable...
« Reply #60 on: April 26, 2013, 06:39:06 pm »
I beat my deadline by 2 days. Retrocade is far from finished but playable. After the 2nd layer of primer I mounted the speakers, monitor, CP, PC and coin door. Wired the coin door lighting to the power supply and connected the switch to the iPAC.

 

When configuring the iPAC for the coin switch I noticed the shift function did not work nor did some other buttons. After some checking I noticed I had the ground and connections swapped on the micro switches.  :banghead: After I corrected this everything worked just fine.

Then it was time... The moment I was working towards for weeks. I launched my favorite game series all times (Metal Slug), took a 50 euro cent coin, dropped it in the slot and...  OMG, What a great feeling!  ;D

Now I'm ready for my daughter's birthday party coming Sunday  :cheers:

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:09:17 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Playable...
« Reply #61 on: April 28, 2013, 04:51:13 pm »
The party went great.  :cheers:

All kids (and most adults) liked my machine. Several dads were already asked to build one too ;D I guess if the joysticks can handle a dozen kids from 6 to 12 playing the whole afternoon the mounting is firm enough. After a short holiday I will continue: painting, marquee lighting and mounting with some kind of retainers, plexi in front of the monitor, T-molding and start thinking about the artwork...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #62 on: May 09, 2013, 02:58:26 pm »
When I returned from a short holiday (at Tenerife) I found a package delivered at my neighbors. It was the mini-SLG scan lines generator (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128970.0.html) I ordered a while ago to improve the genuine look and relief the PC a bit. I connected it, disabled scanlines in MAME and fired up some of my favorite games. They look awesome. The cascaded connectors (PC - DVI->VGA converter  - miniSLG - VGA cable) are a bit long...

 

The appearance is a bit hard to capture with the camera but it gives an impression:

 

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:10:47 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #63 on: May 09, 2013, 04:36:14 pm »
coming along nicely. And how much do I like those sexy scan lines... :P :notworthy: ::)

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #64 on: May 16, 2013, 08:03:24 am »
Very nice looking..

Looks like a great project that should get alot of use

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #65 on: May 16, 2013, 03:02:46 pm »
Today I picked up a new audio amplifier on marktplaats (Dutch national ebay). The one I bought originally had some zero level noise and was not very powerful. It sounded a bit poor. The new one is a Clarion APA2101 car amplifier and is very powerful and punchy  ;D  Even the connections are way better. I'm very happy with this upgrade, especially since I might use the cab as a jukebox once it is finished.

 

Size does matter...

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:11:29 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #66 on: May 21, 2013, 04:20:18 pm »
As I don't have much time currently just some minor progress:

I'm looking for a place to order marquee retainers. Preferable in Europe.

I started thinking about the design of the Artwork. I found some experienced help. I will share when we have some more intermediate results.

I played around adding support for Future Pinball. It's not that bad of an experience. I did not wire the pinball buttons on the side panel yet so I mapped them on the P1/P2 buttons 1 for now. I'm in doubt about adding extra buttons to support Nudge. I don't think I will play pinball that much and don't want my cab to turn into a pimped carnival attraction. I want the tables I am going to add to my launched from my Hyperspin frontend. Although there is no out of the box support I got it to work (not perfect yet, the table does not always get keyboard focus after being launched). Furthermore I can't find any decent Main Menu and System HyperSpin themes for Future Pinball. If anybody has some sources for these please let me know...
« Last Edit: May 22, 2013, 03:10:15 am by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #67 on: June 05, 2013, 05:08:06 pm »
After playing some weeks I wondered how other joysticks would feel. The Mag Sticks are really not bad and although it is easy enough to switch from 4 to 8-way and back from the top I started to think it should be automated. My kids and guests don't understand the difference between 4 and 8-way. In fact they don't care. But they DO notice a game is unplayable if the stick is set wrong.

So I ordered an Ultra Stick 360 and a Sanwa JLF to get a feeling of the Japanese sticks. As I also wanted to see how a Neo Geo colored set of buttons looked on my CP I ordered some yellow and green buttons too.

I was curious how modular my joystick mount was. I already knew I did not take into account larger mounting plates unfortunately but at least the Sanwa has the same plate dimensions as the Mag Stick.

Original Mag Stick mount:
 

The Sanwa fits just fine but the connector is in the way of the mounting plate. So I removed it and soldered the wires directly on the PCB:
 

Placed the filler blocks again and remounted my custom plate:
 

Tada...


I swapped the buttons. My first impression was not that bad but I think it will look bad once the CP artwork is in place. We will see:


I programmed the iPac so the Sanwa stick and right buttons also control Player 1. I asked my test team to play some games:
 

Both my son and I were not very impressed by the Sanwa. The travel feels longer than the Mag Stick. It reacts fast but is is less restricted. We also both prefer the bat top over the ball top. I ordered an addition bat top for the Sanwa but still the Mag stick won. Now I'm even more curious about the Ultra Stick but I have to make another CP with larger undermount to also fit the Ultra stick (and maybe even a Servo Stick in the future). I want to get a CP setup which can hold pretty much every stick. I was close but not there yet ;-)
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:13:10 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #68 on: June 05, 2013, 05:42:46 pm »
 :woot

Looks great.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #69 on: June 06, 2013, 02:51:32 pm »
Finally did the marquee retainer. As I didn't want to spent $40 on shipping only for the original retainers which can't be found anywhere in Europe I was looking for an alternative. I found a strip intended to hang posters on a wall in a local hardware store. I carefully tried to fold them out and that seemed to work just fine so I bought 1 length of 2.5 meter (about 100") for just 3 euro (about $2).

At home I unfolded it until it had the right angle (just below 45 degrees) and drilled some holes.

 

I used inserts on the top and bottom of the marquee area and mounted the retainers holding the two sheets of 3mm clear plexi. I just need to get some black flat head machine screws for a perfect finish. I am very happy with the final result  :)

 

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:14:46 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #70 on: June 09, 2013, 07:07:19 am »
Looks great! :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #71 on: June 12, 2013, 06:31:34 pm »
Very nice build.
Great detail in finishing this cab.

My first build had a sanwa stick and worked very good.
My second one I used the same as you did. the T-Stick.

It was a bid stiff to use compare to the Sanwa.

Now with my Popeye Nintendo bartop I used the Sanwa again but with this one on it.
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joysticks-Restrictor-GT-Y-JLF_641.html

If you edit it to your Sanwa stick, the kids will feel the difference  :cheers: 

Nice avatar you have ...  :laugh2: Dirk Jan .. I love the comic in the Veronica  :D

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #72 on: June 13, 2013, 03:26:31 am »
...
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joysticks-Restrictor-GT-Y-JLF_641.html

If you edit it to your Sanwa stick, the kids will feel the difference  :cheers: 

Nice avatar you have ...  :laugh2: Dirk Jan .. I love the comic in the Veronica  :D
Hi,

I did add that exact Restrictor to the Sanwa. It feels a bit better but I (we) still think the travel is too long and it could be a bit more stiff.

Indeed Dirk Jan is a funny cartoon ;-)

I replaced the screws for the retainer with flat black ones. Now it really looks good  :applaud:

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:16:21 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #73 on: June 15, 2013, 05:57:47 am »
I'm considering doing a DK tribute as that was my favorite game ages ago. And I still like it. Original marquee, custom sideart (I don't like the original one, just a first try) and a adapted CP (text on top right buttons should be BACK - PAUSE - MENU - SHIFT). And use White t-molding. Maybe even the DK bezel.



 



What do you guys think?
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:16:53 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #74 on: June 15, 2013, 05:43:46 pm »
Sideart questions:

Why is Jumpman above/behind DK?

Shouldn't DK be throwing the barrels at him instead of away from him?

How would it look with Jumpman flipped horizontally and moved to the bottom left of the grouping?


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #75 on: June 22, 2013, 03:31:48 pm »
I stopped my DK tribute artwork and went back to my SF-kinda look. I got an initial CP design from my designer. The arrows looked too small and the button surroundings okay on screen but I decided to print and cut them and tried them on my actual CP just to be sure. And I was completely wrong... Arrows were fine but the button surroundings way too big. I even tried to print a slightly bigger arrow set but it was already too big. Back to the drawing table...

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:17:35 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #76 on: June 22, 2013, 06:50:41 pm »
Very nice build so far, shame allot of your earlier pictures won't display anymore. Any chance you have a link to where you got the arrows for your magstick from?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #77 on: June 23, 2013, 05:39:48 am »
Very nice build so far, shame allot of your earlier pictures won't display anymore. Any chance you have a link to where you got the arrows for your magstick from?
All my pictures are in the same public dropbox folder so they should all work just fine (just checked). The arrows are created by my designer and are not public.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - In progress...
« Reply #78 on: June 23, 2013, 04:24:15 pm »
Right you are, must of been a dodge internet connection a the time, Cheers.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Paint it black...
« Reply #79 on: July 03, 2013, 10:30:36 am »
I finally got some time to pick up the project. I first had to disassemble the working cabinet completely. Then I rounded the sharp edges a bit just to be sure the t-molding can be applied easily.

 

I then again sanded, cleaned with amonia  :dizzy: and applied the first layer of black paint.

 



Wow... It looks completely different now  :applaud:

I also finally decided on the theme after going back and forth between all kind of ideas. It's going to be a Metal slug meets StreetFighter style. I think both cartoonish styles match quite nice although the games are quite different. Here's a very rough first version of the marquee (don't mind the characters behind the primary ones ;) ):

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:18:54 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Paint it black...
« Reply #80 on: August 12, 2013, 05:14:40 pm »
Hey.
Nice project you're working on.
Good job so far!
Question. Where did you find those retainers for the marquee?
Thanks.
Groeten Rini.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Paint it black...
« Reply #81 on: August 22, 2013, 04:46:29 am »
Hey.
Nice project you're working on.
Good job so far!
Question. Where did you find those retainers for the marquee?
Thanks.
Groeten Rini.
Thanks. I have to get the project started again after a summer break.

 I bought the poster strip used to create the retainers in a local hardware store called Multimate here in the Netherlands but they are some common you should find them in every "bouwmarkt" I guess...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick
« Reply #82 on: September 06, 2013, 09:09:50 am »
Picking up the project after summer holidays.

I assembled everything back after a final touch of black paint.



I received my new mounting plate for the wider U360 stick. I had a small section of the edge cut out to fit the closest button.



I removed the wire harness witch iPAC and sticks from my test CP to enlarge the routed area to fit the wider U360 stick.

 

 

Tonight I will route out the slightly larger area to fit the U360 and make the CP an inch or so less deep.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:20:19 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #83 on: September 07, 2013, 04:42:35 am »
After routing out a bit bigger area to fit the U360 stick:



I had to drill new holes for the inserts and re-used some from the previous plate. The top left was an existing but did not fully fit. So I left the bolt out but hey, I got 9 left ;D This is still a prototype CP, I will create the final one after finishing the CP Artwork using the experiences of this one...

I then re-wired all switches, the iPAC2, the Sanwa stick and the U360:

 

I'm also happy with the look of the shortened CP. There's (just) enough space left to rest my hands while playing...



Everything works just fine. I installed my UltraMap4Mame to map the U360 correctly for every selected game launched from HyperSpin.



http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134128.0.html
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:21:28 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #84 on: September 07, 2013, 05:05:01 am »
I also did the marquee lighting. I put some aluminum foil on the back of the marquee area for optimal reflection to the marquee. I used 4 PC case modding cold cathode tubes of 30 cm. They operate on 12V.

 

I guess its bright enough (the protective foil is still on the plexiglass).



You can switch it on and off with a switch on the top of the cabinet. I only planned a power switch there so I have to drill an extra hole.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:22:26 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #85 on: September 07, 2013, 06:35:19 pm »
Hey - Love the project and was wondering if you would be willing to share your specs and measurements, etc... I would love to build the same cabinet but was hoping to use your work as a starting point rather than try to create all the measurements (especially the interior supports) from scratch... PM if you are willing to share.. if not, I understand and thx for considering.


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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #86 on: September 07, 2013, 06:51:03 pm »
As my project is based on Project MAME by Rasmus Kønig Sørensen you can find the drawings on his site:



I also used the Google Sketchup drawings of this project done by Remco (ViperLook, in Dutch):

   
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 03:23:32 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #87 on: September 08, 2013, 09:09:25 am »
Thanks.. will take a look at those and see what I can make of them.  thx!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mount and test a U360 Stick...
« Reply #88 on: September 08, 2013, 09:59:26 am »
Looking great. I like that cabinet design.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Plexi
« Reply #89 on: September 18, 2013, 04:28:31 am »
I received the plexi-glass to cover the monitor. It's 3mm grey 49% transmission high gloss plexi-glass (http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/NL/en/gs-allround-4aql41br8z4/plexiglas-gs-allround-grey-7c14-gt-dic33ry3pgp~p.html).

I taped the inside to spray paint the bezel. It turned out pretty nice. The screen now shows amazingly crisp and sharp. If you look from the side you can slightly see the silver monitor bezel so I guess I will spray paint that black too. I'm not sure what kind of bolts to use to mount it. Should they be hidden as much as possible (countersunked flat black ones) or stand out (chromed rounded) like they I did for now?

 

 

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:24:23 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mounted the Plexi-glass...
« Reply #90 on: September 18, 2013, 09:06:01 am »
that looks good
Current Projects:      Zak-Man | TMNT Pedestal | SNES Pi | N64 Odroid
Former Projects:     4 Player Showcase | Donkey Kong | iCade

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Mounted the Plexi-glass...
« Reply #91 on: September 22, 2013, 06:12:15 am »
Today I mounted the power switch and finalized the power management. The power switch switches all devices (PC, monitor, adapters) on at once. The PC is set up to boot on power up in its BIOS.

The mains lead goes out via the bottom. I didn't wanted the power switch or a mains lead connector on the back to be able to put the cabinet with its back flat to the wall.

 

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:25:12 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Plexi
« Reply #92 on: September 25, 2013, 07:05:36 pm »
Should they be hidden as much as possible (countersunked flat black ones) or stand out (chromed rounded) like they I did for now?

Black.

(Veel linkjes blijven posten, hoef ik later minder te zoeken  8))

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Plexi
« Reply #93 on: September 26, 2013, 03:20:35 pm »
Should they be hidden as much as possible (countersunked flat black ones) or stand out (chromed rounded) like they I did for now?

Black.

(Veel linkjes blijven posten, hoef ik later minder te zoeken  8))
I did decide on the flat sunken black screws. I spray-painted them as I could not find suitable black ones.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #94 on: September 27, 2013, 03:49:14 pm »
The screws holding the plexi... In real they are even more discrete.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:26:14 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #95 on: September 30, 2013, 02:29:50 pm »
Hi nice cab youre building, also nice choice on the beer brand (what a jupiler glass can do, men know why!)
Could i get the technical drawing with dimensions off your stick retainer plate shown in picture.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #96 on: October 05, 2013, 06:38:16 am »
Hi nice cab youre building, also nice choice on the beer brand (what a jupiler glass can do, men know why!)
Could i get the technical drawing with dimensions off your stick retainer plate shown in picture.
The Jupliler glass was rarely used as I drink Jupiler out of the bottle as it is supposed to  :cheers:



The drawing of the plate is not very professional but the guy who made it found it good enough. Be aware that I designed it for Magstick Plus. It fitted the Sanwa JLF too but for my recent UltraStik 360 the inner opening was too small and I had the guy create a new one.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:26:58 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #97 on: October 05, 2013, 03:48:59 pm »
This has to be one of the most informative and educational step-by-step build projects I've seen yet  . . . THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!


 :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:
TOM

Understanding that you may not see success instantly, but that all your good decisions add up to a cumulative success over time is what separates those who "get there" and those who don't. Every day you either get further away from your goals, or closer to them . . . Its up to YOU."

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #98 on: October 05, 2013, 04:06:31 pm »
This has to be one of the most informative and educational step-by-step build projects I've seen yet  . . . THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!


 :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:
Thanks. It has been (and still is) a great learning experience but most of all great fun for me too.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #99 on: October 05, 2013, 05:23:28 pm »
This has to be one of the most informative and educational step-by-step build projects I've seen yet  . . . THANK YOU SO MUCH !!!


 :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:   :notworthy:
Thanks. It has been (and still is) a great learning experience but most of all great fun for me too.


Well, I am one of those who is trying to muster up enough confidence and determination to get started . . . so it's compadres such as yourself - providing the community with the kind of detailed step-by-step process explanations and, most importantly, PHOTOS - who provide some of the absolute best motivation and encouragement that it IS possible to do this.   :cheers:


Very much looking forward to your next work-in-progress installment . . . and the next . . . and the next !!!


 :woot
TOM

Understanding that you may not see success instantly, but that all your good decisions add up to a cumulative success over time is what separates those who "get there" and those who don't. Every day you either get further away from your goals, or closer to them . . . Its up to YOU."

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #100 on: October 08, 2013, 05:28:02 am »
Thx a lot for the drawing are you familiar with the t-stick from arcadeshop.de i think they are the same as your first sticks.
And right on jupiler drinks from the bottle unless you have keg! 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #101 on: October 08, 2013, 06:46:20 am »
Thx a lot for the drawing are you familiar with the t-stick from arcadeshop.de i think they are the same as your first sticks.
And right on jupiler drinks from the bottle unless you have keg!
The T-Stick looks exactly the same as a Mag-Stik. I started with the Mag-Stik Plus which you can switch 4/8-way from the top. I ended up with a auto-switching UltraStik 360 which I am very happy with.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Power Management...
« Reply #102 on: October 18, 2013, 06:21:07 pm »
Finally found some time do some work. Although the black bezel on the back of the plexi glass fits perfectly you could still see the inner edge of the gray monitor. So I decided to spray paint it black.

 

 

I also mounted the amplifier on the back of the panel which holds the monitor and started on the keyboard drawer.

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:28:16 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - small updates...
« Reply #103 on: October 18, 2013, 08:16:14 pm »
Pro work as always. Looking good!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - small updates...
« Reply #104 on: October 18, 2013, 10:47:45 pm »
I don't know how I missed the finish to this project.
Very nice work!!!!

 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - small updates...
« Reply #105 on: December 10, 2013, 02:14:10 am »
Cross posting. I created an Artwork discussion thread after starting the artwork:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,136038.0.html

It's based on Martijn's Streetfighter Artwork with a Metal slug touch. Recreating the arrows and button surroundings in Adobe Illustrator (never used it before) was a bit tough. WIP:







I still have to add the characters to the CP but I only have 5 of them...







« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:29:14 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #106 on: December 10, 2013, 07:39:50 am »
Great colours! And five characters might be enough. Maybe something like this.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #107 on: December 10, 2013, 09:13:15 am »
Great colours! And five characters might be enough. Maybe something like this.
That would be too easy. The original design from Waveryder is based on the Streetfigter selection screen:



I want to replace the streetfighter characters with the metal slug ones but have a lot of tiles to fill with only 5 unique characters...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:29:55 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #108 on: December 10, 2013, 10:10:11 am »
Great colours! And five characters might be enough. Maybe something like this.
That would be too easy. The original design from Waveryder is based on the Streetfigter selection screen:



I want to replace the streetfighter characters with the metal slug ones but have a lot of tiles to fill with only 5 unique characters...

Use less, but slightly larger tiles.

3 on top, 2 on bottom.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #109 on: December 10, 2013, 10:20:35 am »
Great colours! And five characters might be enough. Maybe something like this.
That would be too easy. The original design from Waveryder is based on the Streetfigter selection screen:
I want to replace the streetfighter characters with the metal slug ones but have a lot of tiles to fill with only 5 unique characters...

Use less, but slightly larger tiles.

3 on top, 2 on bottom.
I will try some possible options like 3 at the bottom and 2 on top as the top ones are too covered with the buttons / arrows. Or put the MS characters on the fully visible spots and populate the rest with SF characters. I will show the results in the Artwork topic...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #110 on: December 17, 2013, 01:43:37 am »
I finished the whole set of artwork (marquee, CP and both sides). I'm very happy with the result. Especially since I had zero experience with Adobe Illustrator when I started...



 

I will prepare for printing now (adding some bleed, flatten all layers, final check on dimensions) and send it to GameOnGrafics  :)
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:30:53 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #111 on: December 17, 2013, 09:19:22 am »


I will prepare for printing now (adding some bleed, flatten all layers, final check on dimensions) and send it to GameOnGrafics  :)

I would put the general in the middle to even things out.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #112 on: December 17, 2013, 09:27:32 am »
Do you enjoy your admin buttons on the upper right?  Seems like it would be awkward with 2 players.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #113 on: December 17, 2013, 09:42:35 am »
Do you enjoy your admin buttons on the upper right?  Seems like it would be awkward with 2 players.
I hardly need them while playing. Selecting and starting games in the frontend is configured with joysticks and button 1 from player 1 and 2. Only exiting the game and pause will be used occasionally while playing. As most playing is done with 1 player it is even more natural to move your hand from the player buttons to the admin buttons this way...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #114 on: December 17, 2013, 07:56:28 pm »
Came out great!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #115 on: December 18, 2013, 06:33:41 pm »
Came out great!
Thanks...

I placed the order for printing at GameOnGrafix and uploaded the files. I also ordered the t-molding. I didn't have that many options as I need 15 mm (red, black, white or silver). I decided on red to match the text. I think I would have preferred orange. Well... we will see how it turns out. I can always change to the safe color of black...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Plexi
« Reply #116 on: December 19, 2013, 09:18:21 pm »
I received the plexi-glass to cover the monitor. It's 3mm grey 49% transmission high gloss plexi-glass (http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/NL/en/gs-allround-4aql41br8z4/plexiglas-gs-allround-grey-7c14-gt-dic33ry3pgp~p.html).

I taped the inside to spray paint the bezel. It turned out pretty nice. The screen now shows amazingly crisp and sharp. If you look from the side you can slightly see the silver monitor bezel so I guess I will spray paint that black too. I'm not sure what kind of bolts to use to mount it. Should they be hidden as much as possible (countersunked flat black ones) or stand out (chromed rounded) like they I did for now?

 

 

 
How did you get your corners with the tape so straight?
         

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Plexi
« Reply #117 on: December 20, 2013, 02:52:06 am »
I received the plexi-glass to cover the monitor. It's 3mm grey 49% transmission high gloss plexi-glass (http://www.plexiglas-shop.com/NL/en/gs-allround-4aql41br8z4/plexiglas-gs-allround-grey-7c14-gt-dic33ry3pgp~p.html).

I taped the inside to spray paint the bezel. It turned out pretty nice. The screen now shows amazingly crisp and sharp. If you look from the side you can slightly see the silver monitor bezel so I guess I will spray paint that black too. I'm not sure what kind of bolts to use to mount it. Should they be hidden as much as possible (countersunked flat black ones) or stand out (chromed rounded) like they I did for now?

How did you get your corners with the tape so straight?
I first applied address labels like these in the corners to get rounded corners:

In between I used painters tape.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #118 on: December 20, 2013, 07:38:11 am »
Just wanted to say this is one of the best step-by-step updates on a build I've seen yet in my short time on this forum and have gleaned a lot of good ideas from it. Thanks!

Where did you get your speakers and amp from?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #119 on: December 20, 2013, 07:52:41 am »
Just wanted to say this is one of the best step-by-step updates on a build I've seen yet in my short time on this forum and have gleaned a lot of good ideas from it. Thanks!

Where did you get your speakers and amp from?
Thanks.

I bought the speakers from a Dutch webshop (http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/373007/Baseline-2-weg-coaxiale-inbouwluidspreker-80-W) but any decent car speaker will do I guess. The amp I bought on marktplaats.nl, our Dutch version of craigslist.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #120 on: December 21, 2013, 11:03:02 pm »
This build is coming out real nice.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #121 on: December 25, 2013, 07:55:18 pm »
Couple of cool ideas on this. 

S
U
B
S
C
R
I
B
E
D

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - artwork finished...
« Reply #122 on: January 19, 2014, 10:53:56 am »
10 days ago finally I got this in the mail from GameOnGrafix:



Unfortunately I was all packed to go skying in France...

 

As you can see quite diverse weather conditions but had a great time.

This morning I returned after a 12 hour bus trip.  :dizzy:

I could not resist unpacking after a couple of hours of family time. Quality was even better than I had hoped and expected.

I decided to mount the marquee as that was all prepared:

 

I was a bit worried about the amount of light from the PC case modding cold cathode lights and seeing the thickness of the printed marquee and its fully white back did not help. But after mounting I could not be happier  :cheers:

 

The details are amazing:

 

It only shows a little bit of light bleeding on the left and right sides. It's not even very notable but I will try to minimize it somehow.

The side art vinyl and polycarbonate covered CP also came out great. Thanks again Scott!!! I used part of my DVD collection to flatten the large vinyl stickers.



I will redo the CP using the paper printed template and have to figure out how to best apply the vinyl on the side and trim the edges.


« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 02:58:14 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #123 on: January 19, 2014, 11:36:37 am »
I had the same issue with my marquee.



I just trimmed 2 small sections of the marquee retainer (I used drywall edgeguards from the wallpaper department). 



AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #124 on: January 19, 2014, 12:55:20 pm »
I had the same issue with my marquee.

I just trimmed 2 small sections of the marquee retainer (I used drywall edgeguards from the wallpaper department). 

AJ
I will put very small black strips behind the plexi to block the light without seeing something from the outside as it is VERY VERY little light as you can see in the picture:


« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:36:20 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #125 on: January 19, 2014, 01:10:04 pm »
Artwork looks great.
I agree that gameongrafix does very nice work.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #126 on: January 19, 2014, 03:49:39 pm »
Yeah, GameOnGraphics are great. The artwork you have is great! :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #127 on: January 20, 2014, 02:49:49 am »
Looking good, just let the sides where you see light rest. because its new you see that detail, i dont think you will mind it in a week or so, if you gonne mask it it could be attract attention.
but cant really tell from the picture how big of gape it is.

As for the side art, if you are gonna apply it yourself, unpeel a small part at the top, apply it , and use your hands constantly to flatten it to get it bubble free.
if you feel a bubble, pull it back, this can be done many times (on laminated sides that is) i dont know how it will result on paint, if you have a bubble you cannot remove then you can use a small needle and make a tiny hole to let the air out.

good luck

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #128 on: January 20, 2014, 04:32:59 am »
Looking good, just let the sides where you see light rest. because its new you see that detail, i dont think you will mind it in a week or so, if you gonne mask it it could be attract attention.
but cant really tell from the picture how big of gape it is.

As for the side art, if you are gonna apply it yourself, unpeel a small part at the top, apply it , and use your hands constantly to flatten it to get it bubble free.
if you feel a bubble, pull it back, this can be done many times (on laminated sides that is) i dont know how it will result on paint, if you have a bubble you cannot remove then you can use a small needle and make a tiny hole to let the air out.

good luck
I read in a topic from Maximus (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137008.msg1413116.html#msg1413116) he sprays water with some dish washing liquid and uses a roller to apply the vinyl. I guess I will make a test run on a piece of scrap wood, also to route the edges. It's too expensive to ruin the artwork. Any tips on the trimming?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #129 on: January 20, 2014, 05:18:29 am »
i did router trick on the first cab. messy but perfect, dont forget to add some sort of soft material to guide the router , so it wont scratch the laminate to much
2nd with Stanley knife (fresh ultra sharp) but the knife does not cut the laminate so i have some sort of guide. i think it will run into the painted wood


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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #130 on: January 20, 2014, 05:25:49 am »
i did router trick on the first cab. messy but perfect, dont forget to add some sort of soft material to guide the router , so it wont scratch the laminate to much
2nd with Stanley knife (fresh ultra sharp) but the knife does not cut the laminate so i have some sort of guide. i think it will run into the painted wood
Messy? You mean the cut vinyl is scattered through the whole room so I should do this outside?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #131 on: January 20, 2014, 05:33:46 am »
yes i did it inside, it sticks on everything  :laugh:

it will also stick to the router and its bit and feet

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - GameOnGrafix rules...
« Reply #132 on: January 20, 2014, 09:28:04 am »
I've done wet app with good results over the years. If it's a smaller piece I'll dry apply top down with lots of taping and guiding. Wet app is easier because you and slide it around, if you are painted and full size I'd do a wet app. You can put a terry cloth under the squeegee to protect the art is your edge isn't that soft.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - appying sideart...
« Reply #133 on: February 05, 2014, 11:03:18 am »
Today I finally found some spare time to work on the project. I fully disassembled the cab and fitted the sideart when the cab was laying on its side in the living room.



Perfect fit with 1cm bleed on every side. I roughly cut itto shape as I need some scrap vinyl because I first do a test run on applying the sticker and flush trimming the edges with my router.



I also have to fill and sand the holes for the pinball buttons in the sidepanel. I think the buttons will not look nice in the side art and as I'm building a arcade cabinet and not a wannabe pinball machine...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:38:12 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - appying sideart...
« Reply #134 on: February 05, 2014, 03:33:52 pm »
I first do a test run on applying the sticker and flush trimming the edges with my router.
Why not use an X-Acto/hobby knife with a new #11 blade like recommended in the Side Art Install 101 tutorial?



Seems like the base of the router could scratch up the art and the vinyl could stick to the bit.   :dunno


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #135 on: February 05, 2014, 04:34:22 pm »
I use these.  The larger bevel allows more control.



AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - appying sideart...
« Reply #136 on: February 05, 2014, 04:41:37 pm »
I first do a test run on applying the sticker and flush trimming the edges with my router.
Why not use an X-Acto/hobby knife with a new #11 blade like recommended in the Side Art Install 101 tutorial?



Seems like the base of the router could scratch up the art and the vinyl could stick to the bit.   :dunno


Scott
That's why I will do a test run first. Trimming with a router is done by the 2 great builders I got my inspiration from (Maximus and Martijn). I don't wanna ruin the (quite expensive) sideart.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #137 on: February 05, 2014, 04:55:13 pm »


This is what it's like giving any advice to EMDB.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #138 on: February 05, 2014, 04:57:51 pm »


This is what it's like giving any advice to EMDB.

 :laugh2: :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #139 on: February 05, 2014, 05:20:34 pm »
This is what it's like giving any advice to EMDB.
He did eventually come around on threaded inserts:duckhunt


Scott
« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 05:24:45 pm by PL1 »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #140 on: February 05, 2014, 09:25:54 pm »
Never heard of routing the sideart.  Guess I don't pay attention.  Now, routing laminate, that's a go.  :blackbelt

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #141 on: February 06, 2014, 03:01:53 am »
*Cough* *Cough* i did the exacto knife on my marvel cabinet, and even with a brand new scalpel or razor of high quality, it sometimes during a smooth cut it goes into a stutter (especially with small round corners). or because its freehand, during a corner, you can cut at a different angle, it will make difference, because under the art is a white layer, it will be more visible then when you cut at a straight line.

Talking about 0,05mm differences here , but the stutter is the worst. Mierenneukerij  :cheers:

I don't have any stutter or different trim angles when i use my router.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #142 on: February 06, 2014, 04:53:10 am »
I was thinking more of the "fold it over the edge and trim at the t-molding slot" method where the t-molding holds down the edge.   :dunno


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #143 on: February 06, 2014, 05:32:33 am »
There are more roads that lead to Rome  :angel:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #144 on: February 06, 2014, 07:31:37 am »
...you can cut at a different angle, it will make difference, because under the art is a white layer, it will be more visible then when you cut at a straight line.

This really showed up on my darkade build just because that wrap was so, well, dark.  After I trimmed I used a fat tip sharpy and ran it along the edge of the paper to black in all that white, looked great.  Now its pretty much standard practice for me. 

Haven't tried routing but I'd recommend coating the bottom of the router in contact paper trimmed to size just to smooth things along, either that or a cut peice of foam glued on like what is used as sanding pads - just something to protect the art. 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #145 on: February 06, 2014, 08:25:53 am »
...you can cut at a different angle, it will make difference, because under the art is a white layer, it will be more visible then when you cut at a straight line.

This really showed up on my darkade build just because that wrap was so, well, dark.  After I trimmed I used a fat tip sharpy and ran it along the edge of the paper to black in all that white, looked great.  Now its pretty much standard practice for me. 

Haven't tried routing but I'd recommend coating the bottom of the router in contact paper trimmed to size just to smooth things along, either that or a cut peice of foam glued on like what is used as sanding pads - just something to protect the art.
Yes I will add some temporarily soft layer to the base of my router while trimming...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #146 on: February 07, 2014, 02:03:58 am »
Router trimmed artwork



Nuff said  :afro:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #147 on: February 07, 2014, 03:15:09 am »
Looks great.   :cheers:

Any special tips like pre-trimming the outer edges within a certain distance to keep the vinyl from sagging/snagging whiile routing?


Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #148 on: February 07, 2014, 10:20:45 am »
Re-thinking the routing thing.  I think my problem is my flush trim bit is HUGE!  Probably better with a laminate bit.

hmmm...

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #149 on: February 09, 2014, 09:44:09 am »
I painted a scrap piece of MDF just like my cab.



Than I applied a scrap piece of the sideart using some spray of water with a drup of dishwasher fluid and a wallpaper roller. I could not move the sicker anymore once the first part stuck to the MDF. Maybe I was too careful with the fluid? It was quite easy anyway. I did notice I was not that careful with sanding the MDF after applying the primer and the surface was not as smooth as that from my cab. Still the result was pretty good.



I put some soft protective sticker at the base of my routr to protect the artwork.



Routing went very smooth. I cut the vinyl to only have a couple of millimeters left from the edge. After the first go I noticed some very tiny white parts on the cutting edge. After a second run they were all gone and the cut was amazingly sharp.

 

I'm confident this is the method I'm going to use on the sideart itself.

I filled the holes of the pinball switches on the sides with putty. After sanding there were some small irregularities so I added some more putty. In 2 hours I can sand it once more...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:40:28 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #150 on: February 09, 2014, 11:59:28 am »
 :applaud: :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #151 on: February 09, 2014, 01:44:03 pm »
ROCKS!  Totally awesome.   :notworthy:
"Every arcade we restore preserves history that we will never experience again..."

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #152 on: February 12, 2014, 05:37:21 am »
Kids to school, wife to work... Time for some work to be done  :D

I applied the first sideart vinyl. I decided along the way not to apply wet and to use a cloth instead of a roller to apply force to prevent air bubbles. Went very smooth.



I wanted to fire up my favorite tool for this project, my router. But... the power switch broke off and left the router inoperable  :angry:

As I didn't want to miss the opportunity to finish the sideart I forced the switch in on position and blocked it with some metal pin.



Routing went find fine just like my practice round.

 

Then I did side 2:



Time so see the final result. Very happy  :applaud:  :cheers:

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:42:05 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #153 on: February 12, 2014, 06:09:44 am »
Yep good job indeed, those curves are trimmed beautifully.



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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #154 on: February 12, 2014, 08:12:34 am »
Kids to school, wife to work... Time for some work to be done  :D
I wanted to fire up my favorite tool for this project, my router. But... the power switch broke off and left the router inoperable  :angry:

As I didn't want to miss the opportunity to finish the sideart I forced the switch in on position and blocked it with some metal pin.




Like to live life dangerously there  :laugh2:  Hope you had someone to plug it in and unplug it for you  :laugh2: :laugh2:  At least you were using a pattern bit and not a slot cutter.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #155 on: February 12, 2014, 11:50:21 am »
Love the shape of this cab.  Art is beautiful!

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #156 on: February 12, 2014, 12:48:27 pm »
Hey, nice work, mr Danger! :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #157 on: February 12, 2014, 01:35:01 pm »
Like to live life dangerously there  :laugh2:  Hope you had someone to plug it in and unplug it for you  :laugh2: :laugh2:  At least you were using a pattern bit and not a slot cutter.
I had my right hand to unplug  ;D
Hey, nice work, mr Danger! :cheers:
Thanks. I will open the router to see how to somehow fix this. An on/off switch on the body itself it more safe but I didn't want the router to retire yet...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #158 on: February 14, 2014, 05:07:33 pm »
Unfortunately my router died. It was to dangerous to operate without the power switch. I opened it to try to fix the power switch but I could not reach it and was unable to assemble it back.



I can not start on my final control panel using the printed template from GoG. I searched for a used same model on Marktplaats (our Dutch craigslist) as I really liked the slim model which makes routing real easy. I found one unused - still in the box - for a good price (20 euros, about 27 dollar). Hopefully it will be shipped soon...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #159 on: February 15, 2014, 08:50:56 am »
I want to see this project completed, so you can use my router if you'd like.  :afro: I'm in Austria if you feel like a quick drive!


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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #160 on: February 15, 2014, 04:24:59 pm »
I finished the whole set of artwork (marquee, CP and both sides). I'm very happy with the result. Especially since I had zero experience with Adobe Illustrator when I started...



 

I will prepare for printing now (adding some bleed, flatten all layers, final check on dimensions) and send it to GameOnGrafics  :)

Don't know how I missed this - but seriously very cool!  - where did you find the original character artwork ?
Currently building http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137777.0.html Mass-Replicate
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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started with applying the sideart
« Reply #161 on: February 15, 2014, 04:40:59 pm »
I was thinking more of the "fold it over the edge and trim at the t-molding slot" method where the t-molding holds down the edge.   :dunno


Scott

+1
this process works for me - during the fold over process use a hairdryer to help mould vinyl then when T-molding is added the finish looks amazing - followed this video  
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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #162 on: February 15, 2014, 04:50:24 pm »

 :censored: ..ok should have read to the end before commenting  :banghead: though pretty sure my routing skills wouldn't get the result you have achieved

absolutely stunning looking cab! and the artwork just makes it pop well done  :notworthy:
Currently building http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137777.0.html Mass-Replicate
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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - started on the artwork...
« Reply #163 on: February 15, 2014, 05:14:28 pm »
I finished the whole set of artwork (marquee, CP and both sides). I'm very happy with the result. Especially since I had zero experience with Adobe Illustrator when I started...

I will prepare for printing now (adding some bleed, flatten all layers, final check on dimensions) and send it to GameOnGrafics  :)

Don't know how I missed this - but seriously very cool!  - where did you find the original character artwork ?
Google Images:

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&authuser=0&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1846&bih=1014&q=metal+slug+typea+characters&oq=metal+slug+typea+characters

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - sideart applied!
« Reply #164 on: February 27, 2014, 03:49:04 pm »
Finally my new router arrived  :cheers:

Now I can start creating an all new CP based on the print template from GoG. Hopefully the weather will be helpful so I can do some work in my outside workshop coming weekend...

« Last Edit: February 27, 2014, 03:50:52 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - starting on the CP
« Reply #165 on: February 28, 2014, 01:52:12 pm »
I cut the outer dimensions and the rounded corners using my new router. I taped the template on it and drilled 4mm holes through the paper as markers.

I used a spade drill bit to make the 28mm holes for the buttons and joysticks. Perfect fit.

 

 

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:53:36 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - starting on the CP
« Reply #166 on: March 02, 2014, 08:54:42 am »
Nice weather today so time to do some outside work!

First I cut the slot for the t-molding. Then I routed the pockets for the joysticks:

 

 

Then I used the plates which will fixate the joysticks to mark the location of the holes for the inserts. Man, I love inserts  >:D

 



Next up: sanding, priming, sanding and again priming to get a smooth surface to apply the CP artwork  :dizzy:
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:54:28 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - more CP work done
« Reply #167 on: March 06, 2014, 02:40:30 pm »
After 2 layers of primer and sanding in between it is time to stick the artwork on the CP. I was not sure how to position the artwork exactly on top of the button and joystick holes but when I tried to use a flashlight to light from the bottom I could easily position the artwork and fixate with some clamps.

 

Then I removed the protective back from one third of the artwork and firmly applied it to the CP. Afterwards I removed the rest op the protective back and from left to right pressed the remaining artwork on the CP. As it is quite thick (covered with poly-carbonate) it applied very easy with no air bubbles at all. Perfect fit.  :cheers: :applaud:



On one corner I teared off the adhesive layer so I had to use some glue to fixate that.



Next I will roughly cut out the holes with a sharp knife and use my router with flush trim bit to cut all holes and the edges around the CP. I tried one but the knife I used was not very sharp  :angry:

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:55:16 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP artwork applied
« Reply #168 on: March 06, 2014, 04:10:30 pm »
 :applaud: Yay, it's looking very nice.
My past arcade builds - Click to enlarge and get a closer look

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP artwork applied
« Reply #169 on: March 08, 2014, 05:27:09 am »
Borrowed a surgical knife to roughly cut the holes:

 

Then I used my router to cut the holes and edges. Went real smooth just like the sideart  :cheers: :applaud:

 

Testfitted some buttons to have a look at the final result. Turned out real nice...

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:56:18 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP artwork applied
« Reply #170 on: March 08, 2014, 10:46:17 am »
Yeah, baby!  That looks nice!

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP artwork applied
« Reply #171 on: March 09, 2014, 09:17:22 am »
Today I re-wired the ipac, button and sticks using the same harness I already used on my first 2 test control panels. I left the micro switched connected when I removed it from the previous panel. It was quite a spaghetti but because I soldered every single  connector it again kept in one piece.

 

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:56:59 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP finished
« Reply #172 on: March 09, 2014, 02:27:00 pm »
Very pretty, but what's up with the joystick washers? :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP finished
« Reply #173 on: March 09, 2014, 03:10:55 pm »
Very pretty, but what's up with the joystick washers? :cheers:
Very sharp  ;D They are from my MagStiks I initially used but I changed the main (red) one with an U360 to change from 4 to 8 way automatically. The Mag Stick has a chrome tube around the shaft. I still have to fit the tube from my spare MagStik to fit around the U360 shaft. This will fix the too big hole in the red washer and have them look (almost) identical.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP finished
« Reply #174 on: March 12, 2014, 12:46:19 pm »
Looks great!
It also looks like the outside half of the outer walls (outside the t-slot) is a different colour. Did you end up opting for the heat and fold method for the side artwork?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP finished
« Reply #175 on: March 12, 2014, 01:31:53 pm »
Looks great!
It also looks like the outside half of the outer walls (outside the t-slot) is a different colour. Did you end up opting for the heat and fold method for the side artwork?
No. I used my router to cut the vinyl and it scraped the paint of the edge. As it will be covered by the t-molding this is not a problem though.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:58:09 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - CP finished
« Reply #176 on: March 15, 2014, 03:34:35 pm »
I finally received my t-molding but was very disapointed: The color was completely different than shown on the website of t-molding.com. I already had 15mm red but I decided to get 5/8" (15.87 mm) as the 15mm did not always fully cover the sides (as  paint + vinyl / polycatbonate made the total thickness of the side panels and CP just a bit over the original 15mm MDF).

The 15mm (the top one) is all nice with bright red color and a shiny finish. The 5/8" (at the bottom) is matte and much darker red colored:



I sent them a mail to check what went wrong.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 04:58:49 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - wrong t-molding received
« Reply #177 on: March 15, 2014, 06:18:16 pm »
This is looking rather sexy. Great job on the build and the artwork and I love the colours  :cheers:
Click a pic for a video tour 

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - wrong t-molding received
« Reply #178 on: March 15, 2014, 11:19:20 pm »
Man, this is coming along great.
Sorry to hear about the T-molding issue

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - wrong t-molding received
« Reply #179 on: March 16, 2014, 09:50:04 am »
I think you'll find the difference between your molding is 'Bright Red' and 'Red', your top one being bright red. T-molding.com don't do a Bright Red in 5/8" I don't think. Only standard red (matt)

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - wrong t-molding received
« Reply #180 on: March 16, 2014, 01:16:54 pm »
I think you'll find the difference between your molding is 'Bright Red' and 'Red', your top one being bright red. T-molding.com don't do a Bright Red in 5/8" I don't think. Only standard red (matt)
I'm afraid so but their picture for the 5/8" implies differently:



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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - wrong t-molding received
« Reply #181 on: March 26, 2014, 08:27:51 am »
No luck on the t-molding. I can not find 5/8" in bright red so I decided to use the matte. It did not turn out that bad...

 

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 05:00:02 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #182 on: March 26, 2014, 12:56:08 pm »
You'll be fine with the matte. Shiny tends to get scratched and dulled easier.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #183 on: March 26, 2014, 01:33:36 pm »
It looks absolutely stunning! Excellent job. :cheers:

Only my two cents, but maybe you could paint the marquee trim the same colour as the t-molding. Only if the CP's going to get red t-molding as well.

But what am I saying? You've got a finished arcade and I haven't. Again, Great job!!!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #184 on: March 26, 2014, 01:39:29 pm »
I've NEVER seen a marquee retainer look good in any color other than black.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #185 on: March 26, 2014, 02:42:21 pm »
I've NEVER seen a marquee retainer look good in any color other than black.
That...

PS: The CP gets red t-molding as well.

« Last Edit: March 26, 2014, 02:43:53 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #186 on: April 01, 2014, 03:52:07 pm »
With the wallpaper edge guards, you can paint them any color you want. 





AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #187 on: April 01, 2014, 04:18:15 pm »
With the wallpaper edge guards, you can paint them any color you want. 
AJ
Thanks but I keep them black (as they are intended).

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #188 on: April 01, 2014, 04:26:58 pm »
With the wallpaper edge guards, you can paint them any color you want. 
AJ
Thanks but I keep them black (as they are intended).

I think that's a wise choice.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #189 on: April 06, 2014, 09:45:12 am »
Man this is awesome work... very nice good job!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #190 on: April 09, 2014, 10:41:53 am »
I had my Mag Stik Plus shaft cover inner side enlarged to fit the U360 stick so now they both match:



I mounted the t-molding on the CP. I'm not sure how to fixate the corners though. There is quite some tension. Maybe I will glue them:



I finaly had some time and good weather to work outside on the keyboard drawer:



It fits like a glove but probably I have to remove a bit from the top / sides as some layers of primer and paint will make it grow...
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 05:01:27 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #191 on: April 10, 2014, 11:24:54 am »

I mounted the t-molding on the CP. I'm not sure how to fixate the corners though. There is quite some tension. Maybe I will glue them:





Looking great, that is just a minor setback.  I think you know what you have to do though.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - keyboard drawer
« Reply #192 on: April 10, 2014, 04:47:56 pm »
Oh man i just love your cabinet! It's just awesome!
are you going to put plexi on top of your cp? Or you just leave it on the stickers?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - keyboard drawer
« Reply #193 on: April 10, 2014, 04:56:46 pm »
Oh man i just love your cabinet! It's just awesome!
are you going to put plexi on top of your cp? Or you just leave it on the stickers?
No need for plexi. The CP sticker which is from GameOnGrafix is covered with polycarbonate which is very scratch resistant (far more than plexi).

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - t-molding applied
« Reply #194 on: April 12, 2014, 06:46:13 pm »

I mounted the t-molding on the CP. I'm not sure how to fixate the corners though. There is quite some tension. Maybe I will glue them:




Thanks for this picture. You've helped me to decide on heating and folding the side art now rather than trimming it with a router.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - keyboard drawer
« Reply #195 on: April 14, 2014, 10:56:14 pm »
Diameter and  Cutting Length on flush bit please.


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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - keyboard drawer
« Reply #196 on: April 15, 2014, 01:55:23 am »
Diameter and  Cutting Length on flush bit please.
12.7mm but any diameter will do. Length 30mm but should only be larger than the thickness of your MDF...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - keyboard drawer
« Reply #197 on: April 21, 2014, 01:59:22 pm »
Today was a sunny day so I did some work outside: I made a box to hold my "coinbox". I use a cake baking tin for this. I wanted to be able to remove the tin to collect the coins.

 

 

I love these clamps. I guess the are the most used tools during this build after my router.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:16:42 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #198 on: April 21, 2014, 02:02:20 pm »
i have one box if ya pay shipping is yours

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #199 on: April 21, 2014, 02:09:31 pm »
i have one box if ya pay shipping is yours
???

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #200 on: April 21, 2014, 02:10:36 pm »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #201 on: April 21, 2014, 02:18:53 pm »

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #202 on: April 21, 2014, 02:19:18 pm »
Almost forgot I also tried to glue the corners for the t-molding of my CP this week.



Id did not work out very well. The glue kinda showed between the platic and wood and it was not tight. So I decided to do my initial plan: go around the corners and include the sides.  I had to partly de-assemble my buttons and one stick (you gotta love inserts  :applaud:) to route some piece of each side and add the slot cut. I also rounded the corners to get rid of the small indent I made. It all went very smooth. Now I have to wait for another 20 feet of red 5/8" t-molding as I completely used the first 20 feet.

« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:18:09 pm by EMDB »

Caparo8bit

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #203 on: April 21, 2014, 02:25:07 pm »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #204 on: April 21, 2014, 03:44:50 pm »
I think caparo wants you to bake him a cake.  >:D
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #205 on: April 21, 2014, 04:10:32 pm »
you gotta love inserts
Glad they're working well for you.   :cheers:

What, no wiring for Coin 2 yet?   ;D




Scott

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #206 on: April 21, 2014, 04:21:30 pm »
you gotta love inserts
Glad they're working well for you.   :cheers:

What, no wiring for Coin 2 yet?   ;D

Scott
Thanks again for insisting on the inserts  :cheers:

I only have one coin mechanism mounted but I really liked the coin door   ;) The door had both micro switches mounted.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2014, 04:23:32 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - coinbox
« Reply #207 on: April 25, 2014, 05:08:20 pm »
Next Sunday it is 1 year since I met my previous deadline: a playable cabinet on my daughter's birthday.



Today, 2 days before my next (unspoken) deadline I'm 98% ready with the total project. I guess tuning the software will continue forever though  :laugh:

I just have to create the back plate with a carry handle and some ventilation slots.
So one year later at her birthday party I can proudly present Project Retrocade (I'll take some better daylight pictures soon) :


Overview


T-molding around the CP and the painted keyboard drawer.


Instruction Cards are shown before a game is started. Shown using my HyperMap tool (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134128.0.html) I created a few dozen based on MAME artwork and some Google Images searchs.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:19:55 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - Almost there: 98% ready...
« Reply #208 on: April 29, 2014, 02:57:22 pm »
As promised some final pictures in daylight. It was great fun. I learned a lot. Thanks for all tips and advices :



























« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:21:44 pm by EMDB »

mcseforsale

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #209 on: April 29, 2014, 03:19:05 pm »
Nice job.  You'll be back!  :o

AJ

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #210 on: April 29, 2014, 08:24:56 pm »
Maybe it's just cause I'm a sucker for MetalSlug, but this cab is badass,  great job!

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #211 on: April 30, 2014, 02:06:49 pm »
At first I thought I was looking at a topic of something I made  ;D

Turned out great , any shots of the back and internals?

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #212 on: April 30, 2014, 04:17:04 pm »
At first I thought I was looking at a topic of something I made  ;D

Turned out great , any shots of the back and internals?
Haha I know your Streetfighter cab was a huge inspiration for my artwork. I will be on holiday for 2 weeks. After that I still have to add the back plate. I will add some more pictures of that and the inside afterwards...

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #213 on: April 30, 2014, 05:32:47 pm »
Dude. The cab is gorgeous. You did a great job with it.   :applaud:

Love the Metal Slug theme especially.

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #214 on: May 01, 2014, 10:15:08 am »
So, this is what perfection looks like.  :cheers:

Caparo8bit

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #215 on: May 01, 2014, 09:55:29 pm »
MISSING REAL COIN BOX  >:D

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #216 on: May 03, 2014, 06:36:03 am »
Very nice work! :cheers:

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #217 on: May 10, 2014, 07:12:43 pm »
Some specs on request:

PC: Dell Optiplex 745 Core2Duo 1.87Ghz 2GB RAM. 2 GB SATA Disk.

Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 214T. 21.4" 1600 x 1200 4:3 connected via CraftyMech's mini-SLG scanline generator.

Video Card: Radeon 5450 PCI-E.

Software: Windows 8.1 + Hyperspin + HyperMap + MAME 0.153 64 bits custom build with No Nag, HiScore and Donkey Kong Pauline Edition patches.

Joysticks: U360 fully programmable + UltraStik Plus 4/8 way switchable from the top. Both connected via keyboard encoder.

Encoder: IPAC2

« Last Edit: May 11, 2014, 02:28:03 am by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #218 on: May 11, 2014, 04:32:29 am »
Sweet build :applaud:, the artwork is just fantastic :notworthy:
Currently building http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137777.0.html Mass-Replicate
Built "n0tsq3" cocktail cab http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133913.0/all.html
..and restoring a Sega MegaLo 410 Candy Cab & Moon Patrol Cab

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #219 on: May 11, 2014, 04:41:24 am »
WOW! Amazing work. makes mine look like a childs attempt haha. Very good work though. :)

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - FINAL PICTURES !!!
« Reply #220 on: August 29, 2014, 04:57:12 pm »
-
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:26:00 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin video added
« Reply #221 on: August 31, 2014, 02:52:52 am »
This cp is great. can you send me those arrows around the joysticks ? Thanx
Space Simpsons cab in progress

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin video added
« Reply #222 on: August 31, 2014, 04:39:56 am »
This cp is great. can you send me those arrows around the joysticks ? Thanx
I  drew the arrows myself and they are part of the CP Illustrator file.. I'm sorry but I won't share that one...

jacenwon

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin video added
« Reply #223 on: September 13, 2014, 04:36:25 pm »
Wonderful work here. You did a great job on getting the control panel overlay art to vibe with the rest. Definitely using this for inspiration on my next build. Cheers!
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
• 2014 MAME cabinet build: http://tinyurl.com/jaces-mamecab-2014
• 2008 MAME Neo29 build: http://tinyurl.com/jaces-neo29-2008
–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin video added
« Reply #224 on: December 15, 2014, 04:43:23 am »
Still working on the making of video. Just uploaded a new version. I have to redo the second part with a better camera. I can not get any screen capture package to work with the actual emulator video. The HyperSpin part works fine though.

I use HyperSpin as a frontend but don't want to have multiple wheels. I use HyperMap to automatically program my U360 stick from 4/8/diagonal for each individual game, show instruction cards and have custom games in my (single) MAME wheel. I added some Commodore 64, SNES, Sega MegaDrive, Atari 2600, Atari 7800, Philips VideoPac,  ColecoVision, Commodore Amiga and some HomeBrew games (Fix It Felix Jr, Flappy bird and Space Commander as custom games to the HyperMap configuration and created some AutoHotKey scripts per emulator to remap keys for my Control Panel. Every emulator can be paused and exited with the Admin ESC button. I mapped my P1 / P2 buttons to Start and Select for the console emulators. As you can see I really like Donkey Kong and have all versions for the different consoles nicely grouped with the arcade version (and the Pauline Edition).



In the video you now and than see a command prompt pop up before MAME is launched. I already fixed this in my development version of HyperMap.

EMDB

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Re: Scratch Build: Project RetroCade - making of video added
« Reply #225 on: January 26, 2015, 05:44:28 pm »
As a cab is never 100% finished I did some tuning on my Hyperspin setup.

I have a single wheel with all my favorites, most of them being MAME games but also a few dozen console games. My favorite game all times is Donkey Kong. I tried to add as many versions as possible, especially the ones I played as a kid. This made them pretty hard to select in the spinning wheel although I used the correct Donkey Kong colored logo for every system.



Once the theme including the system shows it's obvious but all donkey kong wheel images look similar while spinning. Then I added an image of the system to the Donkey Kong wheel images. This turned out really great! See for yourself:

 

 

 

 
« Last Edit: November 03, 2017, 06:37:21 pm by EMDB »

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong
« Reply #226 on: January 26, 2015, 05:47:56 pm »
That is awesome man! Love it.  :applaud:


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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong
« Reply #227 on: January 26, 2015, 08:19:08 pm »
 :applaud: :applaud: agreed

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong
« Reply #228 on: January 27, 2015, 04:21:20 pm »
I added a short video to show the wheel in action:



At the end you can see some homebrew games I added too: Fix It Felix jr, Flappy Bird Arcade Edition and Space Commander.

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #229 on: April 29, 2015, 06:49:48 am »
I'm a big fan of your cab!

taylormadelv

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #230 on: April 29, 2015, 05:48:55 pm »
Super clean! Very nice! :cheers:

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #231 on: August 27, 2015, 08:16:39 am »
EMDB-

What resolution are you playing the games at to have the SLG working correctly.

I'm planning to use that monitor and an SLG, I was just wondering how you had it set up.

Amazing Cab!

yamatetsu

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #232 on: August 27, 2015, 11:34:26 am »
The mini SLG is an inexpensive, and compact scanline generator that is compatible with devices that output a standard VGA signal @ 640x480 (preferred) & 1024x768 resolutions.
                  

EMDB

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #233 on: August 28, 2015, 10:17:11 am »
EMDB-

What resolution are you playing the games at to have the SLG working correctly.

I'm planning to use that monitor and an SLG, I was just wondering how you had it set up.

Amazing Cab!
640x480 / 1024x768 for the different emulators, 1600x1200 for HyperSpin to have no scan lines in the menus.HyperSpin looks really good this way :)

skank

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #234 on: June 01, 2016, 07:12:39 am »
@EMDB

Mooi!
Ben zelf ook aan het kijken!
Mag ik vragen hoe hoog jouw kast is in totaal.
de koenigs kast is 1m67 en die van viper ook, echter de magneto is er 1m90
Ik ben zelf 1m85 en vrees dat die van koenigs te laag zal zijn.. echter wil ik wel net ddie plannen gebruiken

Waar begint jouw schermpaneel , op welke hoogte? en op welke hoogte stopt die?

Heb je zelf ook plannen?
Wil je ze delen?


Rick

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #235 on: June 01, 2016, 07:01:10 pm »
@EMDB

Mooi!
Ben zelf ook aan het kijken!
Mag ik vragen hoe hoog jouw kast is in totaal.
de koenigs kast is 1m67 en die van viper ook, echter de magneto is er 1m90
Ik ben zelf 1m85 en vrees dat die van koenigs te laag zal zijn.. echter wil ik wel net ddie plannen gebruiken

Waar begint jouw schermpaneel , op welke hoogte? en op welke hoogte stopt die?

Heb je zelf ook plannen?
Wil je ze delen?

Damn, I love me some Google Translate:

Quote
Beautiful! 'm Watching myself! May I ask how high your cabinet is total. The koenigsberg cabinet is 1m67 and that of viper also, however, the magnetosphere is 1m90 I am 1m85 and fear of koenigsberg will be too low .. But I want to just planning to use Where does your screen panel, at what level? and at what height will stop them? Do you also have plans? Want to share it?

skank

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #236 on: June 02, 2016, 09:57:36 am »
Where did u get that 21 inch 4:3 screen?
Its hard to find one

I can only get a 19inch in 4:3 and i wonder if i should nt get a 16:9 instead... but then 22-23 inch

skank

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #237 on: June 05, 2016, 03:46:54 am »
Where did you order your coindoor, buttons and speaker?

EMDB

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Re: Project RetroCade - HyperSpin multi Donkey Kong wheel
« Reply #238 on: November 03, 2017, 06:40:33 pm »
*** updated all the images as they were broken thanks to dropbox stopping their public folder ***

EMDB

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Re: Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« Reply #239 on: November 03, 2017, 06:41:08 pm »
*** updated all the images as they were broken thanks to dropbox stopping their public folder ***

namonami

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Re: Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« Reply #240 on: May 20, 2020, 12:16:41 pm »
Hi! I realize this project was done a while ago, but I was hoping you might still be around. The sketchup files mentioned in the first post aren't available anymore. Any chance you have those saved and might be able to share them?

I'm starting a project now and really appreciate how you documented your process here. Thank you!

EMDB

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Re: Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« Reply #241 on: July 11, 2020, 08:29:20 am »
Here you are...

namonami

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Re: Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« Reply #242 on: July 12, 2020, 12:55:46 am »
Thank you so much. It's very nice of you to provide this even after all this time.

I had one last question after looking at the plans. It looks like the computer is closed inside the cabinet. Is there a way to access it for future service? Did you maybe use the inserts to install the back? Or leave the back off?

EMDB

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Re: Project RetroCade - FINISHED
« Reply #243 on: July 12, 2020, 04:37:47 am »
My intention was to make a removable back plate but I never got to that so the back is open. As it is standing against a wall it's not a big problem...