ami-man's advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes

[phesson]

The Clear Selection Memory was only featured on the two following ranges of jukeboxes.

R-80 to R-83 there was a clear memory button on the Memory Unit
R-84 to R-88 clear memory button on the CCC as I previously mentioned.

On the R-89 to R-94 this feature was not an option


In order to reset the memorec reset, you have to put the service switch into the SERVICE position.
Error codes can be read in the service position by entering 666, 699 clears all error codes.

If the programming code is the original then to get into programming put the service switch into service, press Popular and 000, if correct you will get three dashes on the display.

Regards
Alan

Thank you Alan,

I feel like a pest

Error codes are cleared.

1. When I am ready to power off the unit, I need to press the cancel button for each individual selection left in the play queue before shutting it off. My friends will load selections and it takes quite some time for the unit to load the record, then I press cancel and then repeat for each one.

3.  I am able to reset the memorac and clear the play counts. The memorac shows the correct play counts afterward but when I press the "Popular" button it seems to play a random selection. This has me confused.

Thank you,

Paul

[lilshawn]

me thinks if the memory is clear and you press the popular button to play a track based on play data... with no data...  playing a random song would probably be appropriate.  possibly if invalid data is encountered it just picks one out at random to keep things going. know what i mean?

the computer isn't very smart... i mean it's smart... but can only work with the information it's given. lots of compromises are made for the sake of reliability for use out in the public... if that meant lying about what a popular cd track is because the data contained in NVRAM is invalid or corrupted or cleared... so be it. rather someone get a random song played thinking it's popular than some drunk pounding on the keyboard because he's pushing a button and nothing is happening.

[phesson]

me thinks if the memory is clear and you press the popular button to play a track based on play data... with no data...  playing a random song would probably be appropriate.  possibly if invalid data is encountered it just picks one out at random to keep things going. know what i mean?

the computer isn't very smart... i mean it's smart... but can only work with the information it's given. lots of compromises are made for the sake of reliability for use out in the public... if that meant lying about what a popular cd track is because the data contained in NVRAM is invalid or corrupted or cleared... so be it. rather someone get a random song played thinking it's popular than some drunk pounding on the keyboard because he's pushing a button and nothing is happening.

Thanks lilshawn.

I've done this several times. I clear the memorac, play a record 3 times in a row and check the play count. The memorac has the correct new data but the popular button dosen't agree with the memorac.
It's really not a big issue but I thought I might be able to get it to work.

My other question is about turning off the jukebox. Do I just shut it down while it's playing a record? I don't want to create a new problem.

[ed12]

with that kind of memory problem
I would want to replace the nvram (that's the start for trouble shooting)
second
we tend to make sure the unit is not playing before powering it off

ed

[phesson]

with that kind of memory problem
I would want to replace the nvram (that's the start for trouble shooting)
second
we tend to make sure the unit is not playing before powering it off

ed

Thanks Ed.

That's what I was looking for.

[lilshawn]

yes, the NVRAM chip has a battery that keeps the data alive and accurate they are around the right age now to start crapping out about now.

on use, it has a steady power from the power supply powering it. when you shut it off, the battery takes over and keeps the data alive. Battery gets weak... starts out as data corruption,  (the clock tick write to NVRAM actually dips the power down causing the corruption.) but as the battery tanks completely it moves on to complete data loss on power off. not a real big deal if the default configuration is what you run.

[phesson]

Paul here with a question about the light control unit in my Rowe R-90 part # 4-07501-03

The flashing lights in the front door assembly would barely light and flash. Very dim. I took the display control to a local electrician with experience working on Rowe boxes and he immediately found two dry joints and resoldered them. Problem solved.  All the lights are working. 
 
My second issue is when the light control switch is in the "LIGHT" position the sound is muted. All the lights still work and look great but no sound. When it is in the  "CONT", "CONT FLASH" or "FLASH OFF" position, the lights respond appropriately and the sound is fine. My electrician suggested the switch on the board probably needs replaced but he has no idea where I could find a new one.

Any information would be appreciated. 

[ami-man]

Hi Paul,

Send me a picture of the switch where I can see the top and the connection pins, I should be able to supply you with one.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[phesson]

Thank you Alan!

I hope these show what you need.
 
Thanks,

Paul

[ami-man]

Hi Paul,

Looking at your pictures the switch is the 4 position switch with 5 connection pins.

I do not have a new one of these but I can supply you with a good used one.

Please send me a PM with your full name, postal address and phone contact information.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[phesson]

Looking at your pictures the switch is the 4 position switch with 5 connection pins.

I do not have a new one of these but I can supply you with a good used one.

Please send me a PM with your full name, postal address and phone contact information.

Message sent. Thank you!

[ami-man]

Hello Paul,

The switch is on its way to you.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Johnsondouglas77]

Hi Alan i see that you have helped some people out with wall boxes i have a rowe r88 i have 2 wall boxes one is a wrd 200 and the other is wrf i only want to hook up one of these which one would work if any.and what will i need to hook it up thank you Doug.

[ami-man]

Hello Doug,

The ideal wallbox for a Rowe Ami  R-84 to R-88 would be a WRE.
The WRF is for use on R-89 to R-94 jukeboxes.

You can use the WRD wallbox if you use a 4-06372-03 Wallbox Interface, you will also require a wallbox transformer.

If you have problems locating a interface in your country I do have some in stock, I would not suggest to supply you a wallbox transformer because of the weight, but we also have these in stock.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

I am on holiday from close of business Thursday 17th November until 1st December.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[tonearmsam]

hello all -

I was looking for some help with my Rowe/AMI R-90. I have been restoring it and gotten it to play finally, but the sound is crackling, and when it plays it sounds like a half second echo, like two of the same record being played at the same time, but one is a half second ahead of the other. I have two working amplifiers and it happens on both the same way, so I'm not sure if the amp has anything to do with it. I did not have the chance to change the stylus yet; was hoping to get advice on the symptoms first. Thanks.

[cordd]

hello all -

I was looking for some help with my Rowe/AMI R-90. I have been restoring it and gotten it to play finally, but the sound is crackling, and when it plays it sounds like a half second echo, like two of the same record being played at the same time, but one is a half second ahead of the other. I have two working amplifiers and it happens on both the same way, so I'm not sure if the amp has anything to do with it. I did not have the chance to change the stylus yet; was hoping to get advice on the symptoms first. Thanks.

Maybe try unplugging the power to the amplifier and play a record. You can barely hear the record if you listen closely in a quiet room without the amp. You might get some sense then if it is a turntable issue vs. an amplifier issue.

Does this happen on multiple records? What happens when you switch the amp on mono?

[sbidwell]

Hi Alan, Steve here from the US and I'm new to the forum. I'm hoping you can share some of your jukebox wisdom with me. I recently purchased a Rowe CD100 C. I pretty much have all the issue sorted out (and there were many) except for one that's making me crazy. I have very low, distorted sound coming from the left channel. Originally I found the upper left midrange speaker missing and a driver board on the amp with blown 8 amp fuses. I replace the pair of shorted driver transistors associated with the blown board, the speaker and the fuses. No more blowing fuses, but that’s when I discovered the faint distorted sound from the left channel. Flipping the mono/stereo switch on the preamp board produces sound from all speakers, so I assume I do not have a wiring harness issue. I then swapped driver boards to see if the problem would move from left to right; however, the problem stayed in the left-- no change, so I assume both driver boards are okay as well. At this point I thought I had a bad preamp board. I purchased one off eBay that was advertised as "tested good". I replaced preamp and still had the same issue. This leads me to believe I have a good preamp, what’s the odds of having two with the exact same issue, plus I purchased it from a reputable seller, so I’m assuming it’s fine too. So... I decided to replace the other two driver transistors, why not. No help, same issue. Using a spare speaker, I connected it direct to the speaker package terminal and nothing on the left side produced sound, right side worked fine. Thinking it may be left channel transformer on the speaker package I swapped them around but the problem remained. I probably didn't need to even do this step, in retrospect, I don't think it proved anything. Oh, and early on in the process I also used different audio sources (iPod) to take out the possibility of the CD player being the issue, and I swapped left and right inputs to the amp...only sound in the right.

So now I'm grasping at straws, but I feel it has to be the amp still, right? If I'm looking at the schematic correctly, it appears that the left channel E7 and E1 terminals on the speaker package are feed directly from the amp’s speaker connector and if I'm not getting any sound there then it's not coming from the amp correctly, right? I have also pulled both driver boards and reflowed all the joints on the connector pins and checked for dry or cracked joints with a magnifying glass elsewhere on the boards. I've also tested continuity from the plugs to the driver transistor sockets and the amp wiring in general. Also, checked for 40v on the two filter caps and that all checks out too. I'm frustrated...any ideas? I was hoping to have this working for my Christmas party, but at this point it may have to be in mono. Thanks, I appreciate your time.

[ami-man]

Hi Steve,

Check out the volume control is wired correctly, if we have any issues with a jukeboxes internal volume control wiring we just make up a test control with a 5 pin Molex connector and a 10k log control.

Pins 1 & 5 go to one end of the control & pin 3 goes to the wiper on the pot.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[tonearmsam]

Thanks cordd -

when the amp is unplugged, it is the usual fly in the room buzzing. Certain records play, others stay in the same position playing the same 1.5 seconds over and over. When in mono the result is the same delay/echo mentioned before.

[ami-man]

Hello tonearmsam,

Could you please post a picture of your tonearm showing the cartridge and its connections, we should be able to spot any faults from that, maybe a side shot and a shot with the tone arm lifted up and a closeup of the cartridge from the front.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
Uk

[tonearmsam]

Alan,

I attached the pictures here. I think I got all the points you needed, but if you need others just let me know. Thanks much for you help.

[ami-man]

Hello tonearmsam,

That all looks good, have you checked that the four wires from the cartridge are in the positions indicated on the gold coloured label? The cartridge end is correct.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[valkrie]

Hi,
I have a ami rowe r92 in australia that I am resurrecting. The machine is finally working and playing records.
It seems the white plastic tonearm cam spring is causing the tone arm to stick at the start of the record?
Can i remove this spring entirely?
Also what cd changers are people fitting to these machines now? The sony 10 disc with it needs the disc selector overhauled.
Cheers,
Stu

[ami-man]

Hi Stu,

Welcome to the forum.

The answer to your question is no, without it the tone arm will not operate correctly.

I would check your tone arm collor adjustments as per the manual, if the tone arm lifting pin is not on the edge of the slot on the tone arm cam, the tone arm will be out. there is only a few adjustments on the mechanism (from R-84 to R-94) about four just for the tone arm and tone arm cam.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[kestrel165]

Hi Alan
You have helped me in the past hope you can again. I have a problem with an R91, if I select a record between 100 and 149 the magazine stops at 1 more than the selection entered, if I select 150-199 it stops at 2 more than the selection entered. I have checked the opt switch home voltage at P203 on the mechanism control unit and its ok, when I check the index voltage whilst rotating the magazine with the cancel button the meter reads approx. 2.4v dc the manual says it should be 3.1 - 3.4v dc. Would this significantly affect the index count?
The mech control unit is a 4-07221-02 so it does not have sensitivity pots for adjusting the voltages. (incidentally the manual I have which gives the voltages actually says there are sensitivity pots so maybe 2.1 to 2.4 is ok can you confirm)
Could it be just a dirty gear and/opt switch, if so can I clean them in situ and what cleaning procedure should I use (white spirit, lint free cloth etc)
thanks in advance
Ron

[valkrie]

Thanks Alan
No luck with a manual from the Australian agent. I will order one direct from victory after new years.
Cheers,
Stu

Hi Stu,

Welcome to the forum.

The answer to your question is no, without it the tone arm will not operate correctly.

I would check your tone arm collor adjustments as per the manual, if the tone arm lifting pin is not on the edge of the slot on the tone arm cam, the tone arm will be out. there is only a few adjustments on the mechanism (from R-84 to R-94) about four just for the tone arm and tone arm cam.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Thanks Alan
No luck with a manual from the Australian agent. I will order one direct from victory after new years.
Cheers,
Stu

Hi Stu,

Welcome to the forum.

The answer to your question is no, without it the tone arm will not operate correctly.

I would check your tone arm collor adjustments as per the manual, if the tone arm lifting pin is not on the edge of the slot on the tone arm cam, the tone arm will be out. there is only a few adjustments on the mechanism (from R-84 to R-94) about four just for the tone arm and tone arm cam.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Hi Stu,

Ask your local agent if he has a maunual from the earlier CTI-2, R-84, R-85, R-86, R-87, R-88, R-89, R-90, R-91
all of these manuals show you all of the mechanism adjustments.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ami-man]

Hi Alan
You have helped me in the past hope you can again. I have a problem with an R91, if I select a record between 100 and 149 the magazine stops at 1 more than the selection entered, if I select 150-199 it stops at 2 more than the selection entered. I have checked the opt switch home voltage at P203 on the mechanism control unit and its ok, when I check the index voltage whilst rotating the magazine with the cancel button the meter reads approx. 2.4v dc the manual says it should be 3.1 - 3.4v dc. Would this significantly affect the index count?
The mech control unit is a 4-07221-02 so it does not have sensitivity pots for adjusting the voltages. (incidentally the manual I have which gives the voltages actually says there are sensitivity pots so maybe 2.1 to 2.4 is ok can you confirm)
Could it be just a dirty gear and/opt switch, if so can I clean them in situ and what cleaning procedure should I use (white spirit, lint free cloth etc)
thanks in advance
Ron

Hi Ron,

I would just use a damp cloth once you have removed the opto switch and its bracket to clean the gear.

You will need to use the correct mechanism control with the trim pots, also the opto switch need to be the one with the red plug.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[tonearmsam]

Hello tonearmsam,

That all looks good, have you checked that the four wires from the cartridge are in the positions indicated on the gold coloured label? The cartridge end is correct.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Alan,

It looks like the gold label diagram is correct. After doing trouble shooting in more detail, this is what conclusions I have drawn -

• The only records that play entirely are warped to varying degrees (I only loaded test records in it so far). All normally shaped records replay the same 2 seconds as mentioned previously.
• The records that play to the end do not return the tone arm back to the standby position. I have to press the return button manually to get the tone arm to return.
• When the tone arm returns, it scratches against the surface on it's way back.
• All records have the echo sound regardless of amp installed or mono/stereo setting.

As a side note, the power supply's receptacle outlet for the amp is dead, so I've been directly connecting the amp to a wall outlet. I will have an electrician friend either replace the receptacle of the current power supply, or replace it with the same model from eBay or somewhere. I didn't believe that this setup would have any bearing on the result, but I figured it might be worth mentioning.

[Furet87]

bonjour
désolé mais je n'écris pas suffisamment bien l'anglais pour communiquer 
je demande de l'aide pour un RI-2 canterbury en remettant le commutateur de service en position normal le chargeur de disques n'arrête pas de tourner ( ne trouve pas sa position de repos ).
comme j'ai 2 appareils identiques j'ai échangé les deux ensembles électroniques dessous la mécanique, le résultat est identique.
j'ai cherché je ne trouve pas le sensor qui identifie la position de repos
il ne semble pas que ces appareils soient très courants et personne n'a l'air de s'y intéresser.
je joins une photo de la mécanique.

[lilshawn]

Si vous accédez à "https://translate.google.com/", il fait un très bon travail de traduction français vers anglais. (Au moins mieux qu'auparavant).

bonjour
désolé mais je n'écris pas suffisamment bien l'anglais pour communiquer 
je demande de l'aide pour un RI-2 canterbury en remettant le commutateur de service en position normal le chargeur de disques n'arrête pas de tourner ( ne trouve pas sa position de repos ).
comme j'ai 2 appareils identiques j'ai échangé les deux ensembles électroniques dessous la mécanique, le résultat est identique.
j'ai cherché je ne trouve pas le sensor qui identifie la position de repos
il ne semble pas que ces appareils soient très courants et personne n'a l'air de s'y intéresser.
je joins une photo de la mécanique.

quick translate:

Hello
Sorry but I do not write enough English to communicate
I ask for help for a RI-2 canterbury by putting the service switch back into normal position the disk loader does not stop turning (does not find its rest position).
As I have 2 identical devices I exchanged the two electronic sets under the mechanics, the result is identical.
I searched I can not find the sensor that identifies the rest position
It does not seem that these devices are very common and nobody seems to be interested.
I enclose a picture of the mechanics.

Il pourrait être les contacts de l'encodeur sont sales. Il doit avoir un interrupteur fermer lorsque la machine est en position de repos. Si ce commutateur est sale, il ne fera pas de bon contact et peut-être continuer au lieu d'arrêter.

Le faisceau de fils qui sont vissés sur l'avant du codeur doit être enlevé (deux vis) et vérifié pour la saleté et si sale ... être nettoyé. Je ne sais pas si elles devraient être lubrifiées ou non. (Certains le font et d'autres pas. Je ne connais pas cette machine spécifiquement) peut-être AMI-MAN commenter plus tard aujourd'hui si c'est le cas.

translated from:

it could be the contacts of the encoder are dirty. it should have a switch close when the machine is in rest home position. if this switch is dirty, it will not make good contact and possibly keep going instead of stop.

the bundle of wires that are screwed onto the front of the encoder should be  removed (two screws) and checked for dirt and if dirty... be cleaned. I'm not sure if they should be lubricated or not. (some do and others do not. I don't know this machine specifically) perhaps AMI-MAN will comment later today if this is the case.

[Furet87]

merci lilshawn pour votre réponse.
mais j'aimerais bien avoir une image de l'intérieur de l'encodeur et la procédure de démontage, j'ai peur de le démonter sans informations et de faire plus de dégats qu'il n' y en a

Thank you lilshawn for your reply.
But I would like to have an image of the inside of the encoder and the disassembly procedure, I am afraid to disassemble it without information and to do more damage than there are
Happy Holidays

une autre question, sur le deuxième jukebox le chargeur est complètement bloqué
on ne peut pas le tourner à la main ça ne semble pas venir de l'axe du panier.
d'ou peut provenir le blocage , moteur, axe, ou autre chose ?

Another question, on the second jukebox the charger is completely blocked
We can not turn it by hand it does not seem to come from the axis of the basket.
From where can the blocking, motor, ax, or anything else come from?

joyeuses fêtes

Christian

[denny405]

Sir,
   I have had a working 1982 r-86 jukebox for about 7 years.  During a recent move it locked itself (the front panel).  The lock itself has always been 'buggered' up so I never thought the lock would be a problem.  Foolish me.  Is there anything short of a chainsaw that can get me into it. 

[lilshawn]

merci lilshawn pour votre réponse.
mais j'aimerais bien avoir une image de l'intérieur de l'encodeur et la procédure de démontage, j'ai peur de le démonter sans informations et de faire plus de dégats qu'il n' y en a

Thank you lilshawn for your reply.
But I would like to have an image of the inside of the encoder and the disassembly procedure, I am afraid to disassemble it without information and to do more damage than there are
Happy Holidays

une autre question, sur le deuxième jukebox le chargeur est complètement bloqué
on ne peut pas le tourner à la main ça ne semble pas venir de l'axe du panier.
d'ou peut provenir le blocage , moteur, axe, ou autre chose ?

Another question, on the second jukebox the charger is completely blocked
We can not turn it by hand it does not seem to come from the axis of the basket.
From where can the blocking, motor, ax, or anything else come from?

joyeuses fêtes

Christian

Je ne peux pas vraiment voir de votre image et malheureusement je n'ai pas un livre de servie pour cette machine ... mais, vous ne devriez pas avoir à démonter le mechanisim beaucoup du tout. Il apparaît que les pièces utilisées pour «détecter» la position de la roue codeuse est juste à l'avant. (J'ai entouré la pièce dans l'image ci-jointe.) Il devrait être amovible et avoir une série de "brosses" qui appuient contre les traces de cuivre sur la roue d'encodeur.

Il serait préférable de marquer la zone avec un marqueur ou un crayon dans le cas où il a la capacité d'être ajusté, de cette façon, vous pouvez le faire revenir à la même place à nouveau.

Il peut juste avoir une accumulation de saleté ou la corrosion sur les extrémités des brosses qui doit être enlevé. Un "scotch brite" pad souvent utilisé pour nettoyer les taches difficiles sur les pots et les casseroles peut être utilisé pour frotter doucement toute la saleté ou la corrosion sur la brosse.

Le panier qui contient les disques ne peut normalement pas être tourné à la main. Il a ce qu'on appelle un «engrenage de sprag» qui les verrouille en place pour ne pas obtenir désaligné. Cet engin est électriquement engagé et désengagé lorsque le mécanisim doit se déplacer. Il peut être désengagé manuellement, mais lorsqu'il est tourné, il s'arrête dans chaque position d'enregistrement et doit être désengagé à nouveau, car il a une butée d'entaille pour chaque enregistrement et s'arrêtera à la suivante.

Afin de charger facilement les enregistrements dans le panier, activez le commutateur de service de la machine pour mettre la machine en service. Vous pouvez appuyer sur le commutateur sur le côté gauche de la mécanisim (étiqueté "can cel") et le panier sera activé tourner sur son propre jusqu'à ce que vous relâchez le bouton.

[lilshawn]

Sir,
   I have had a working 1982 r-86 jukebox for about 7 years.  During a recent move it locked itself (the front panel).  The lock itself has always been 'buggered' up so I never thought the lock would be a problem.  Foolish me.  Is there anything short of a chainsaw that can get me into it.

I'm not real familiar with the R-86. The pics on the internet suggest the lock is in the middle of the lower section just below the door?

if so, (similar to the 100 series) you may be able to use a couple pieces of some thin metal (like crate strapping) to insert under the door on either side and push the latches away from the hooks on the door. the mechanism allows for a pile of play on the latches so moving them is pretty easy. it's just a matter of getting at them and pushing them the correct direction.

i would recommend against drilling out the lock, as it can potentially bind the mechanism in an improper manner and render the unit nearly unlockable without damaging it. If you know for certain which direction the lock needs to be turned, you can try wedging a large flat bladed driver into the lock opening and using a pair of vise grips on the shaft or handle to help turn and break the lock. not ideal, but in a pinch...

If you do manage to get the machine open, I recommend removing and taking the lock to a locksmith or hardware store and purchasing a replacement. they are pretty cheap and can be had for under 10 bucks. you might need to modify it a little to work with the existing mechanism (file it out or something) but usually it's not too bad.

[Furet87]

hello 

Do you think that after cleaning the wipers  he makes the following modification ?

you can try is to hang a 10k resistor from each of the wipers on that encoder wheel (via the plug on the memory unit) to the -17v rail, as there are no pull up resistors fitted in the factory. This can sometimes fix problems involving endless scanning, and jumping numbers on the display.

Would you have a picture of that change?

bonne journée

christian

[ami-man]

Bonjour Chrétien,

Le défaut habituel sur les encodeurs est que les deux essuie-glaces inférieurs usent plus que les autres en raison de la conception du bloc de contact.
Vérifiez qu'ils sont encore en contact.

Nous réparons ces R-80S à R-83 (comprend RI-2 et CTI-1SC)
Normalement, nous demandons les panneaux suivants pour les essais / réparations: -

Contrôle du mécanisme 401-06905

Unités de mémoire

601-07666 utilisé sur R-80S, R-81, RI-2 et CTI-1SC

301-07855 utilisé sur R-82 & R-83

Logique de sélecteur

603-08060 utilisé sur RI-2
601-08060 utilisé sur R-80S, R-81, R-82, R-83 et CTI-1SC

S'il vous plaît me contacter si vous avez besoin de conseils ou si vous avez besoin de tests / réparations.

Cordialement
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited
UK

Hello Christian,

The usual fault on the encoders is that the bottom two wipers wear down more than the others due to the design of the contact block.
Check that they are still making contact.

We repair these R-80S to R-83 (includes RI-2 and CTI-1SC)
Normally we ask for the following boards for testing/repair:-

Mechanism Control 401-06905

Memory Units

601-07666 used on R-80S, R-81, RI-2 and CTI-1SC

301-07855 used on R-82 & R-83

Selector Logic

603-08060 used on RI-2
601-08060 used on R-80S, R-81, R-82, R-83 and CTI-1SC

Please contact me if you require any advice or if you require any testing/repairs.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited
UK

[Furet87]

bonjour Alan
j ai démonté avec beaucoup de précautions l'encodeur nettoye le disque et les balais verifie le reglage correct h
mis un peu d huile sur l axe , remonte l encodeur.
maintenant il ne reste plus qu'a remonrer le tout sur la mecanique, mais comment regler correctement l encodeur par rapport au chargeur de disque ? existe t il des reperes visuels ?
bonne journee
christian

ANGLAIS
hello Alan 
I disassembled with a lot of precautions the encoder cleans the disc and the brushes verifies the correct setting h
Put a little oil on the axis, go up the encoder.
Now it only remains to reassemble the whole on the mechanics, but how to regulate correctly the encoder compared to the loader of disc? Are there any visual benchmarks?
have a good day
Christian

[ami-man]

Bonjour Chrétien,

Si vous regardez la roue dentée de l'encodeur, vous verrez une marque 00 sur le bord de la roue.
Vous devez mettre le mécanisme en service et le balayer jusqu'à ce qu'il soit à l'emplacement 100, sur le côté droit du support qui tient le codeur en place est un pas dans le support de la marque 00 doit être opposée à cette position lorsque le mécanisme Est dans l'emplacement 100 (c'est semblable à l'assemblage de plaque d'arrêt sur le mécanisme 1100 pour chronométrer le mécanisme).

Cordialement
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

Hello Christian,

If you look at the gear wheel of the encoder you will see a 00 mark on the edge of the wheel.
You need to put the mechanism into service and scan it around until it is at location 100, on the righthand side of the bracket that holds the encoder in place is a step in the bracket the 00 mark has to be oposite this position when the mechanism is in the 100 location (this is similar to the stop plate assembly on the 1100 mechanism to time the mechanism).

Regards
Alan

Alan-hood
ami-man
UK