ami-man's advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes

[jdemarti]

Thanks, Alan.  I'll give it a try.

[jdemarti]

Alan

You were correct, the optical switch was out of adjustment.  Working great now.  Thanks again

John

[afsteveo]

This may seem like a silly question, but we have a jukebox leftover to us here at our rec center in Afghanistan. No, directions, no keys, nothing. We want to update the music and honestly have no idea how to open it without brute strength and breaking it. It is a Rowe CD-100K Starglo and looks like there should be a lock on the side but it is completely missing.

Any help is appreciated.

[lilshawn]

i've attached a quick setup guide for the machine that will tell you how to install and setup the machine for new CD's.

but to do that, you are going to have to open the cabinet...you may get lucky and have a manual inside the machine with detailed instructions on how to change the CD's then program the computer for the new CD.

step 1 is to get in the machine. the lock should be on the side somewhere it should be stamped "C094A" this will open up the whole front of the machine. it's a standard size lock, so if you have to break the lock to get in (because no keys) it should be easy to obtain another.

[afsteveo]

Thanks LilShawn, but ours does not even have a lock on the side, just a hole where it should be. We've tried forcing it open but are afraid to break it if we try too hard. 

[jennifer]

   Although not familiar with that machine.... If you look in that hole with a light, My guess is you will find a cam setup that pushes rods to latches on the sides,  (kinda like a pickup tailgate)
if you push it with a borepick (or something) I bet it pops right open. Locks are usually drilled out be people who lose the keys, a replacement should be relatively easy to find.

[lilshawn]

i'm not sure exactly how these are setup to unlock, but you should be able to find some stiff wires on the inside that attached to the lock at one time.

you should be able to get someone on the back side to look into one of the holes or ventilation grills and see inside. you may be able to guide a second person with a pair of long needle nose pliers to grasp the rods and pull them up or down to release the door.

depending on the method of lockdown, you may be able to use some metal strapping used in shipping heavy duty crates to shim inside the door and trip the door catch to open.

like so:

[jennifer]

    That's actually a fun idea ... I use the plastic straps to cover painted edges on cabs, so the bit on the router doesn't burn the finish when I laminate. It leaves a not so flush cut obviously but a piece of painters tape and a big file finishes it off really nice.

[ami-man]

Hello afsteveo,

Welcome to the forum please let us have your name.

If you can not see the wires that activate the catches through the lock hole you will have to force open the jukebox door.

Usually the catches are about 10 to 12 inches from each side of door. To do this I usually put some masking tape on a couple of screwdrivers to help protect the cabinet trim.
You push a screwdriver in between the the small opening in the door and lower trim enough so you can see one of the catches. the catches are usually an arrow head in shape which are against a flat plate, push a screwdriver inbetween to open the door at one side. Put a wedge in this opened side whilst you attack the other catch, once this is done the door will spring open.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[jdemarti]

I have a question about the AMI ROWE CCC Eprom.  Until recently, I thought the latest CCC code was v4.3. A few weeks ago I saw an AMI ROWE Hideaway jukebox that had v5.0 on the Eprom.  Is there such thing as a v5.0?

Thanks

[d0n]

Hi can you tell me the difference between the cd-RN and the cd-RNH bubbler jukeboxes?  My RNH was made in 1996.

[allz28]

Hi Alan,

You helped me get my 1963 Rowe AMI JAL-200 jukebox running earlier in the year and I'm afraid it stopped working and I could use your help again.  A record didn't set down correctly and as the transfer arm went to place it back in the magazine, it jammed.  I cleared the record but the transfer arm will not release (meaning the shoe does not retract) to allow the magazine to scan.  It's sort of like the jukebox is stuck on this one step and won't move forward with operation.  In more detail, specifically, when I turn my Jukebox on, the power activates and the transfer motor cam attempts to move and then seems to bind and the machine buzzes.  The same happens if I attempt to scan.

I cannot visibly see any broken components.  If I activate what I think is the Detent Solenoid, the magazine will begin scanning, but I have to manually hold the transfer arm shoe in to keep it from rubbing the records.

After reading through my manual, I thought this might be a symptom of a bad cam microswitch, but they all tested good (or at least the resistance on the switches changed according to switch operation).  Since I had it apart, I went ahead and cleaned the relays again with a paper taper.  I also checked the 2-amp slo-blo fuse, which was good.

How should i proceed diagnostically?  Thanks in advance for your help again!

[jennifer]

    If I was to take a guess, It would be the rollers on the carriage gave out,

[Ken Layton]

I have a question about the AMI ROWE CCC Eprom.  Until recently, I thought the latest CCC code was v4.3. A few weeks ago I saw an AMI ROWE Hideaway jukebox that had v5.0 on the Eprom.  Is there such thing as a v5.0?

Thanks

5.0 on the CCC eprom?

I've never heard of it.

[johnyfroes]

Hi everybody, I am a newbie here. I live in the Caribbean and I have worked with Rowe CD boxes for 20 years, now I have converted all of them to Digital, so I have tons of CCC, Mech decoders, complete mech and basket and players, scan motors, transfer motors, title page assemblys, CDPro and CDPro-2, title pages motors, complete mechanismes for CD100 C, D, E, and for WP100 also alot of CD Video decoders NTSC (to watch your videos) using VCD.

[d0n]

Does anyone know what liquid is inside the bubbler tubes on a 1996 rowe ami cd-rnh? It's a dark yellow/orange.

One of my tubes is broken and empty. I thinking I might be able to fill it back up and seal it with epoxy... if I knew what was in it?!

thanks

[ami-man]

Hi d0n,

Your best bet is to go the Victory Glass website and order the correct tube.
www.victoryglass.com

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[d0n]

Thanks I have done that   

[lilshawn]

for S&G...

originally trichlorofluoromethane would have been used. But because of it's harmful effects and depletion of the ozone if released into the atmosphere its production has been ceased. The modern much safer liquid used is dichloromethane.(Methylene chloride)

it has a very low and narrow volatile boiling point, nonflammable, and relatively harmless if accidentally released. Just don't breathe a bunch of it in.

it is a liquid to vapour cycle that causes the bubbles to form and then be reabsorbed later down the tube as it only takes a few degrees to change from a gas back to liquid again.

if you where to attempt refilling the tube, you'd have to fill the tube with dichloromethane then remove  the air so all that remains in the tube is dichloromethane and a small amount dichloromethane vapour (pretty easy considering the boiling point of dichloromethane), then seal the tube.

[Dave2864]

Hi Alan,
New to the jukebox world, so apologize in advance for any stupid questions.
I have a Rowe AMI LaserStar StarGlo CD100-K.  Everything works fine except for the title page mechanism.  You can manually turn the pages to where they are all at the top and "sometimes" the motor will lower the pages but it will never raise them back up.  You can hear the motor trying to move the page but it can't do it.  I've looked everywhere for the latch to remove the whole assembly but have been unable to find it.  Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
USA

[lilshawn]

it may still have the shipping screws installed holding it in place.

it might have 2 screws in the back towards the top holding it in place. it would be near the handle you turn to change the pages.

see in your manual section 1-4 for the location of the screws.

or this PDF:

http://www.roweinternational.com/pdf/starglow_manual.pdf

[Dave2864]

Lilshawn,
The screws had already been removed.  Thanks for attaching the pdf!  I still can't see how it comes out, however.

[lilshawn]

if all the screws have been removed then you should be able to lift the side opposite the hinge brackets and tilt the entire rack away from the unit.

make sure to disconnect the electrical plug from the page assy.

now i don't remember exactly, it's been awhile since i've had to remove one.... but...

you either press down on 2 ....sort of of retainer tabs... on each side of the hinge bracket (where the assy rotates on the hinge) to release the assy from the bracket. then you just lift out the assy...off the bracket.

or once it's in the full open position you can lift the assy out of the bracket. (hinge pins sort of keyed to stay in place when closed, but slot out when fully opened.

[ami-man]

Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Dave2864]

Lilshawn,
You were right!  I was looking for a latch that had to be disengaged.  There's not actually one.  It just sits on some bolts.  You just lift up and pull out.
Now if I can just see what's keeping the pages from turning!
Thank you and Merry Christmas!

[pinballjail]

Hello, I have a MM3 jukebox that when you make a selection the search unit runs and won't stop. I cleaned the contacts on the search unit edge connector and the slip ring wipers. I also swapped the R and R2 relays around and that didn't help.     Any ideas where I should look next ?

Thank You
Kelley

[ami-man]

Hello Kelley,

I suggest that you do the following:-

Make a paper taper out of copy paper.

On the Keyboard are two relays R1 & R5 (usually under a small plastic cover).
On the relays you will see the open contacts, using the paper taper you have made clean the tips of the contacts by pulling the taper between the contacts.
Check that the contacts have pressure on them when activating the relays.

On the Search Unit you will see the two open contact relays S1 & S2.
Clean these again using your taper and check the contacts for mechanical operation.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

[wise1]

I have a very similar problem with MM3 scan, the mech will do all the right things to play a record but when there are no more selections to play, the scan wheel keeps turning and wont stop.
what switch or contact tells the scan to stop when there are no more selections to play? this is a work in progress. the gearing was out of sync  and needle and random cartridge wrong way round.
one problem at a time. The mech is in very good condition for its age. the amp is probably rooted though. when I turn the juke on the scan wheel keeps turning.

Mr Alan Hood, My R89 problems still persist (sometimes), your testing of my mech control board was spot on and works fine. I now think I have two faults, bad connector P105 and faulty opto for the basket

Richard

[ami-man]

Hello Richard,

Re the MM-3 the problem may well be in the Scan Control Assembly 303-05111.

Check out the miccro switch in this assembly, part number 200-10731.
You will see the gear assembly, scan has a spring attached to it, this gear under tention by the spring activates the switch to stop the scan after about a full revolution and a third.
Check that this is working correctly and is activating the switch.

Re the R-89 check the loom from the the CCC to P205 on the mechanism control, remove each connection from the molex plug one pin at a time by pushing in the pawl and extracting the pin with a very small screw driver orcract knife. Reset the pawl amnd look at the connection pin, you will see that it constructed by a folded method, first check the sloping surface of the pin for any tarnish, if there is any clean of with a pencil rubber (erazer) or a fibre glass cleaning pencil. If ok slightly open the folded pin this when reincerted will put extra pressure on the connection.

Do the above to every connect on each end of the loom. If you think you so have a connection issue on P105 on the CCC then desolder each connection on the pins and reflow with new solder.

Re the opto switch, check all the four wires going into the molex plug these wires are very thin and can break, if all ok remove the opto switch and clean between the sensors, if the mechanism gear that opto switch sensors is dirty, then clean this as well.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[wise1]

Thanks Alan,
I will have a look at the machine on the week end and let you know what I find.

Richard

[Camcian]

Hi Alan, I've got a Rowe Ami 100 cd. It's a bit battered and bought not working. Managed to get up and running due to a loose wire. However today when I powered it up it wouldn't work. Basically the disc span for a short while then stops. It won't move the loader and it's saying no errors exist? I'm not very electrically minded so please be patient. Andy.

[ami-man]

Hello Andy,

Welcome to the forum.

I suggest that you make sure all of the molex plugs that go to the boards in your jukebox are fully seated. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS WITH THE JUKEBOX OFF OR THE SERVICE SWITCH INTO THE OFF POSITION

Once you have established that the plugs are all good. Check the Power Supply Unit that all of the leds are lit.

To be honest that is about as far you can go with your limited knowledge, have you bought the correct manual for your jukebox. If you have read it (a number of times) so you can be familiar with the terms used for the parts, their location and the programming of the jukebox.

What country do you live in, this will aid us so we can suggest where to send your boards for testing/repair.

You need to know which laser/mechanism is fitted to your jukebox, it will be a CDM-3, CDM-4, CDM-12 or CD-PRO with the suitable mechanism control/decoder.

Is your mechanism the open basket type or is it the earlier type with the separation wires between each CD? the later were modified to prevent damage to the CD's (which were loosing their track information).

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[lurch]

Does anyone know about the remote power connection in the R-92's?   Is this for powering up something external or for powering on/off the jukebox itself?

[ami-man]

Hello Lurch,

What are you regarding as the remote power connections?

Are you talking about the mains switch on the back of the power supply? If so this switch switches off the Service 110/120volt socket and the 28 volts AC, 28 volts DC & 8 volts DC. the amplifier 110/120 volt socket remains live!

Or are you talking about the P502 socket that supplies the low voltage power rails to the jukebox?

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[ROWE AMI RI-1G]

Hi I have a Rowe AMI RI-G1
It has never played a record just sat in the corner for a year as a repairable machine. Thought I had better get on here and seek some help getting it going.
.it powers up
.lights up
.Speakers have a signal going to them.
.Selector buttons depress and engage.
There is no movement in the carousel and the record selector or needle arm don't move all I get is a low electrical hum. 
Opening the glass lid there is a square box on the left hand side with a lever on the top. When I move it to the scan front position the carousel turns freely and in the centre off position it stops. In the rear position nothing occurs.

Any ideas what's wrong?
Thanks

[ami-man]

Hi Steve,

Asking what is wrong is like asking how long is a piece of string.
I have replied to your email to check out the power supply for blown fuses, you need to check the connections to the mechanism and the search unit etc.

If you do not have the manual you need to purchase one so we can best direct you where to follow the wiring on the jukebox.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[danboyle]

Hi AMI man.  I live in San Francisco, USA, and recently acquired a working MM2.  Bought the manual and decided to attempt to "clean" the selector pins.  After pulling the whole wheel/motor assy out of the unit, I realized the dis-assembly was more than I had time for, so reinstalled it and plugged it back in.  Of course now it won't work.  Basically, the selector buttons work, the selector wheel spins, I believe the proper pins are being fired out, but the record wheel doesn't rotate, and that's the end of things.  I can "scan"(rotate the wheel) using the lever, but in the on position, nothing happens after the selection process.  Checked fuses, and obvious wiring connectors, but to no avail.  Any thoughts would be appreciated!  Thanks!

[ami-man]

Hi Dan,

Welcome to the forum.

I suggest that you clean the open contacts on the S1 & S2 relays on the search unit. Pull a paper taper between the contacts (open & closed) to clean the tips of the contacts, check by manual operation of the relays that the contacts open and close correctly and that there is pressure on the contacts when closed.

Do not use any cleaning or contact spray on the contacts or any form of lubrication on the pins on the search unit, the best way is to strip the rear of the search unit down and clean all the parts in warm soapy water, dry off and reassemble.

While you are cleaning relays, on the keyboard is R1 & R5, these contacts need cleaning also, use your paper taper again through all of these contacts.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Daveorr]

Hi All,
This my first time on any forum so please tell me if I go wrong,
I am English retired and living in Spain I have bought an AMI Cadette Jukebox Model CMM1 totally none working and have challenged myself to restore if to its former glory, as a Motor Mechanic in a previous life I have a knowledge of mechanics but not electronics but i am enjoying learning.
I have removed and tested the junction box and that is working fine with the correct voltage at each fuse when I manually enter credits it shorts out I have found it is a cable on the credit unit that has been repaired before with a bridge wire, facing the credit unit it is the third cable from the right (Brown) and leads to the three way switch on the Scan control after that I am lost, trying the credit price switches in all positions it still shorts out when the credit unit turns and the wipers make a connection.
Also is it possible to work the jukebox without the credit unit in by having the scan switch in the off position until I get another one.
I don't want to ask too much at once but would appreciate any help you can give.
Many thanks Dave

[danboyle]

Thank you so much, Alan!  I was not prepared for how insanely complicated the mechanism is, and how vague the manual is (like a lot of professional workshop manuals, I know).  It assumes you know a lot about the technical names, locations, and functions of the components before you even open the book.  I'm slowly figuring out what/where things are by staring at the drawings, and then poking around the machine.

It does seem logical that an electrical component between the search unit and the record magazine has suddenly dropped out, but since it was working before, and I didn't really "do anything" except take it the whole thing out, and then put it back into the cabinet, I was having trouble figuring out where to even start.  So thanks for the suggestions.  Also, in going back and thinking about what I touched in the process, I remembered that I did absentmindedly reconnect the main connector to the search unit with the power on, and heard what sounded like relays fire.  Was that potentially damaging to something?  Really appreciate your help, Alan!  As technicians seem to be disappearing from Earth, the AMI Rowe community is very lucky to have you around.