ami-man's advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes

[BigAlsCandy]

To ami-man (or anyone else)
I have been a lurker on this site off and on for about a year.
I recently decided to join and seek some advice on a juke box that I bought.
I have narrowed it down to the R-85 and I think it is the Starburst model.
I bought it off of a guy that didn't have room for it anymore and paid $150 which also included over 700 45's.

It seems to work fine with a couple of exceptions.  Keep in mind that my electronic expertise goes about as far as plugging it in.
1.  The numbers don't always work.  They worked fine today but several months ago I noticed that some were not working.
2.  The left speaker is not nearly as loud as the right speaker.  I swapped them out and figured out that it was not the speaker itself.
3.  I want to replace the needle.  It works fine but I don't really know how old it is or the abuse it has had. 

I would love to find someone local or relatively close that could work on it and make and necessary repairs or adjustments.
I live in Alabama, USA if anyone knows of someone within a couple hundred miles. 
I am going to try to post a pic but didn't have luck with it earlier.
I have loved visiting this site and all of the knowledge that folks share.
Thanks

[ami-man]

Hello BigAlsCandy,

Welcome to the forum.

The 1981 Rowe Ami R-85 came in three model styles:-

Starlight (my favorite) infinity lighting around a mirror ball.
Starwood no attract lighting cabinet trim red, orange, brown.
Starburst again no attract lighting but a hologram effect on the lower panel, colours used green & blue the issue with this jukbox is that the title rack is coloured so the lighting on the titles is not great.

The keyboard issue could be bad switches or more than kilely dry joints (called cold joints USA, cracking around the solder on the connection pins) on the top & bottom connections on the Pricing Broard 6-08878-01 (revision number up to -05) which is just under the CCC.

You will need a Shure N44C stylus if the cartridge is the orginal M44C (can be marked up Rowe Ami).

Check that the wiring to the cartridge is correct as per your manual, this effects the sound if not correct.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Corny]

I just brought home a 100c and was wondering where I can go for parts to replace some of these: 

laminate on the side
bezel
speaker grills
cover for amp area

Also looking for advice on how to fix the animation display and getting all the lights working (Can I replace them with LED's while I am at it?) ?

Fortunately the cd player inside was brand new and the audio sounds great, its just not a looker at the moment.

Thanks for any help!

[lurch]

My Time to Shine!!!

Corny-

I ordered an animation motor from herbach and rademan  $30 inc shipping (still waiting on it, so ill let you know how it goes)  They apparently have 5 of the 10PRM motors in stock right now.   
http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=HAR&Product_Code=Synchron+-+RPM

As for LED's you can get them at cointaker (look under "other" section for any #86 bulbs).   I can verify these work well. 

As for plastics.   Please provide me your location.   (if you are in the DC/Balitmore US area, you are in luck!)

[Corny]

Thanks for the info lurch.

Please do let me know on the motor as that is the cheapest I have seen them so far.

I live in the pacific northwest so unfortunately I appear to be out of the range for the plastics.

Edit: Has anyone replaced the florescent tubes with LED tubes?  The Juke didn't come with any of the tubes or the covers for the tubes, what length/wattage do I need and does anyone know where I can get the covers for them?

[ami-man]

Hi Corny,

You can use theatrical gel (loads of shades well over 300 available, full sheets are more than the length of the tubes) you can use one colour or cut into strips  and then cover with a clear gel.

That was a good price on the motors, by the time we get any into the UK it costs well over £50 plus import duty.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[lurch]

OK, so after 4 weeks of waiting,  i got the motor last night!   (mostly due to the snow in NJ where the seller is located)

Here are some pics (this is the $30 inc shipping motor mentioned earlier).   I realized that the old motor i had was NOT factory as its 20RPM not the standard 10RPM.  So this may not be a good comparison reference for everyone.  That said, the new motor worked perfectly in my R92.   Notice the shaft has no teeth, just a notch and appears to be 1/8inch shorter.    If you had to you could simply move the internal gearing from your old motor to this new motor.


Left: NEW motor   Right: OLD motor


Left: NEW motor  Right: OLD motor
I guess different manufacturing regulations since then?  Hence the vented cap.  Either way, its mounted upside down so dust shouldnt be a problem.   Its SUPER quiet (cant hear it at all!)


Left: NEW motor  Right: OLD motor
Notice the shaft has no teeth, just a notch and appears to be 1/8inch shorter.  Shaft diameter is the same.

[lurch]

Hi Corny,

You can use theatrical gel (loads of shades well over 300 available, full sheets are more than the length of the tubes) you can use one colour or cut into strips  and then cover with a clear gel.

After a quick search, i found these:  http://www.stagespot.com/rosco-quick-color-sleeves-for-fluorescent-tubes.html

They appear to match what AMIMAN was talking about.     That said, while you are there you should replace the ballast as well (those old starter motors often cause POPs or spikes in the electrical system).   They are about $15 at home depot/lowes and worth every penny.  (just swapped mine out this week!, world of difference!)



OLD JUNK BALLAST

Shiny new ballast!   Instantly turns on, no electrical spikes, no humm noise, and its brighter!

[lurch]

That was a good price on the motors, by the time we get any into the UK it costs well over £50 plus import duty.

Regards
Alan

Alan (Ami-man)  what if you could get them direct from china?  Would you still have to pay the import duties?    Im sure these can be ordered and sent directly to you......   ill dig around.

[Corny]

Awesome, the gel is just what I was looking for, thank you!  After fixing some electrical wires last night I plugged in my old motor and it *just worked* so that is one less thing to worry about for now.  Good idea about replacing the ballast, I had to replace the starter and tube so I might as well replace that while I am at it.  I have a couple easy questions hopefully:

For the fluorescent lamp that is mounted above the cd title rack that is supposed to have a tube guard with the gel installed, this is also supposed to spin correct?  How does this mechanism spin the tube?  Can anyone take a close up picture for me so I can compare what is in mine, I think I am missing something.

Every once in awhile the cd tray will spin to the incorrect # selected and last night I noticed that one of my cds was laying on the deck and another cd was put into a slot crooked (e.g. it was in 02 and 04).  Is this an adjustment issue?  How do I diagnose/fix this?

Edit:
Where can I get a replacement lock?  I don't care if it is keyed the same or not, I found one at home depot that was the right length but the square peg was too large.

What are the connectors that I see in the cab where you insert the wires like a molex plug?

[lurch]

Check out:
http://www.arcadeadventures.com/economy-locks-various-sizes-same-key-code/
Bought many locks from there....   this model always comes with the same key, which is great! They are really durable and are just as good as the more expensive options.  I usually just replace all the locks at once, its just easier that way (these are too cheap not to do that).

I looked around and wasnt able to find a copy of the manual online but i seriously recommend having a hard copy anyways.
Spend the $30 and get the manual, you wont regret it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rowe-CD-100C-LaserStar-Jukebox-Service-Parts-Manual-/360126842640?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53d93b8710#

[lurch]

For the fluorescent lamp that is mounted above the cd title rack that is supposed to have a tube guard with the gel installed, this is also supposed to spin correct?  How does this mechanism spin the tube?  Can anyone take a close up picture for me so I can compare what is in mine, I think I am missing something.

What are the connectors that I see in the cab where you insert the wires like a molex plug?

Was not able to find a close-up picture, but i found this video instead!   (looks like it just rotates the "tube guard" and not the bulb)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=QUbzy7BpZOM#t=118

what connectors are you talking about?  have a pic or location?

Mat

[Corny]

Ah there is a band around the wheel, that's the piece I was missing.

At this point I am not too concerned with the connectors, I will just use wire nuts.

With regards to the ballast, I have two separate ballasts, one for each lamp and they are magnetic so use the starters.  Would it be worth it to switch to an electric ballast and remove the starters?  Seems like a fair bit of work because I would have to re-wire to get rid of the starters and find a new place to mount the longer ballast.

[lurch]

I did it and it was MUCH easier than i anticipated.   (granted it wasnt a 100C)  There were like twenty e-ballasts to choose from at home depot and most of them were meant for two bulbs.   So you should be able to lower the required amps and consolidate into one ballast.   MOST e-ballasts have the same mounting dimensions as they were meant to be replaceable and are fairly universal.   Just measure the distance between the two screws holding the ballast in, and then take that measurement into the store with you.

This guy did it and it turned out pretty well: http://www.biltronix.com/Rowe_CD100B_01.html

Based on the specs it looks like this e-ballast should work well:  http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-120-Volt-Electronic-Ballast-for-4-ft-2-Lamp-T12-Fixture-GE240RES120-DIYB/205410441

Forget the wire nuts!   Get some butt connectors, you wont have to worry about them falling off and it wont look ghetto.

[lurch]

OK so as for my remaining issues:  (for my AMI/ROWE R92)

1) CD player just keeps playing once started and wont stop.   The CCC does not appear to be able to mute/stop the CD player (?) or maybe it does not recognize the song has stopped (??) Its one of those Pioneer units for home.
2) Light controller is mostly working, but will not "dance" to the music.   It flashes, but when "with music" selected, the bulbs just sit half dim.  Like its not getting input.
- replaced all diodes
- replace three main transistors
- replaced two transistors (MPS6515)
- verified resistors
- verified no "cold joints"
- verified it is getting signal
- Only thing i havnt checked are the IC Chips.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP!!!!

Mat

[Corny]

I keep having some intermittent issues with the cd player not putting the cds back correctly or sometimes choosing the wrong cd.

I have also noticed that there CCC Rowelink light is consistently blinking, very fast.

I looked at the manual and I read the section about adjusting the optical sensor but I am more of a visual person, is there a video out there about how to do it or somewhere with more instructions/pictures?

Thanks!

[frankie M]

Hi ive recently bought a Rowe AMi R90. I used to work on them in the 80's. It was working but now nothing selects and i either get 37 or 39 fault. all connections are ok but i feel its the mech. control board not driving the arm stroke mech motor.

any help please

Farnkie M

[Bennythebulla]

hello sir I had a question about a ami rowe mm4 jukebox the problem im having is I pic the a button an I get c selection the numbers are correct though is there an easy adjustment for me the box plays an sounds great

[ami-man]

Hi,

With all of the Rowe Ami jukeboxes (including the MM-4) with the 1100 mechanism you need to check the Search Unit to see that it is pushing out the correct pins.
In order to check this out I would remove the three bolts that hold the search unit to the mechanism, that way it will sit on the bottom of the mechanism and you can see all the pins it pushes out.

While you have the search unit off check that the timing mark on the stop plate assemble (00) is at the correct location when the A1 slot is under the gripper bow.

Do the above checks and get back to us.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK 

[maroguy1]

I have a cd100 cd pro player.  I tried to get the box to play in my garage when it was around 20 degrees well it didn't work and the arm that picks up the cd didn't close.  It then came back too far and now the arm hit the player and stopped.  I tested the switcher underneath and they seem fine.  Thanks for any replys

[sticky69]

Alan,

    I just bought a used cd100f that works great.  I had to replace the motor that turns the disk display at the top and most of the bulbs, but it plays great.  One thing I can't seem to figure out though is the Autoplay option.  From the manual I think I'm enabling it properly, but there are some other options in the menu that I might need to work on that aren't explained in depth in the manual.  In fact, some are mentioned as existing without any explanation on how to configure them are what they actually do.  Do you know of a better instruction manual for this?  I searched in here for autoplay posts, but sisn't get much and nothing along the lines of what I'm looking for.  It's possible I'm doing it right and the thing is just screwed up.  Thanks.

Rick

[ami-man]

Hi Rick,

The manual is a two part manual and the installation setup & programming is in Volume 1 and is featured in section 2 Installation & Progamming, on page 2-25 is the progamming map, this is followed by many pages of explanations up to page 2-76. Section 4 in these pages covers autoplay starting on page 2-37, 2-38 & 2-39.
Autoplay is also featured in the Command Index on page 2-48 and 2-54.

It takes a while to get your head around the mindset.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[allz28]

I hope I'm posting this in the right place and not interrupting someone else's conversation.  And please also forgive me since I don't really know Jukebox terminology yet, though I'm a pretty handy guy.

I have a 1963 AMI/Rowe Jukebox (it's either a JAL-200 or JEL-200, but I can't find a model tag) that's been in my family for 28 years.  It got passed down to me and I haven't heard it play in about 15 years!  From what I remember, the jukebox was working perfectly until one day when my mother was cleaning the light bulbs with the front of the case open . . . she closed it up and suddenly the jukebox stopped working.  Since then, it's just sat in a basement untouched until now.

When I turn the machine on, the turntable starts turning and just turn endlessly.  When you try to select a number, nothing happens.  If you try to scan, I hear it try to scan (like I hear a relay or something activate), but it won't scan.  I've posted this YouTube video in case my description is hard to understand:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2idzzvpPviY&feature=youtu.be

I'm ordering a manual for the machine today.  But I'd really appreciate any help to get me started on this repair.  Thanks so much!

[allz28]

I just did a visual inspection of the machine and I found the following loose/frayed wires underneath the turntable (see attached picture).  There is a black and white wire that is connected to nothing.  And there is a green and white wire that appears frayed.  I have no idea if this is related to my problem or not, but figured I'd update the post.

Best,
Adam

[Fredro]

Hi - New reader here. I am glad I located this forum. It looks like there's lots of really good information here. I am a member of ARF forum and have been working on my antique radios for about 10 years.

I bought my very 1st jukebox yesterday after decades of wanting one. It's a Rowe R-92 - 45 player. Looks to be in really good, clean condition. Of course the man in the store tells me "we just had it playing" when he couldn't make it play. I took that with a grain of salt and bought it anyway. I have one issue to start off with that I can't make go away. I keep getting error code 30. Occasionally I'll get error code 34  when it times out.

I have ordered my manual for it this morning and I will have to wait for it to arrive. I am being ultra cautious with everything because I don't want to throw any of the mechanics out of whack. I did some reading online and read that the optical sensor needed to be pulled and cleaned. I powered down and figured out how to do that. ....done. Now, I have the sensor back in place and I still get the error code - 30. Can someone tell me how to properly set this sensor? I don't know what LEDs on the mechanical board need to light (or not light) when it's in the proper position.

I feel like the sensor is working because the record carriage is homed at position 00 and I can get the optical switch home LED and the optical switch index LED to illuminate on and off by shifting the sensor with the thumb nut.

I visually checked the CCC and the mechanics circuit boards for any obvious problems and they appear ok at this early stage.

Thanks for any insight! 

[Ken Layton]

30 and 34 are optical switch errors.

Dirty, misadjusted, or defective optical switch.

[derf]

just an update to say there is no update, other than my continuing battle with balance and dizziness issues, now with earaches and tinnitus just for fun.  Can't drive.  Sux.  Been to 1 ENT and  2 neurologists, the second of which did extensive testing and came up with --I don't know.

I finally have the wiring diagrams for everything so I can theoretically intelligently troubleshoot.

Happy new year to all.

Don't know if you ban for inactivity so I thought I better post to be safe.  I definitely want to stick around here.

Update:  None on the juke (now that he has one channel playing), other than that, my dizziness situation continues with some improvement (will spare details)
I will eventually get over there and finish the juke diag, and be back here fore help

Derf

[ami-man]

Hello Adam & Fredro,

Welcome to the forum.

You both need to wait until you have bought your workshop manuals, read them from cover to cover several times so you can understand the terminology used in describing the parts and instructions for adjustment or in the case of the later jukeboxes the programming tree.

Adam you will need to check and clean all of the Search Unit open relay contacts, this is best done with a paper taper (just folded copy or writing paper) to hone clean the tips of contacts.
You will need to do the same on R1 & R5 under the plastic case on your keyboard/button bank. You will have to trace the wiring to see what and where those damaged cables go to.

Fredro.

When you have your manual you will see the error codes, some of these shut box the jukebox until the jukebox is powered off and then switched back on. You will need to clear the error codes, if these continue you will have to check and clean the opto switch and the gear that it passes over.
In the manual you will find instructions for manual and electroic adjustments of the home & index adjustments.

Please keep us all posted, can you both go into your forum profiles and put in the country you live in, this will help everyone direct you to where it is best to get support and spare parts.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[allz28]

Thanks, Alan!  I'm looking forward to when my manual arrives and will keep you posted.  I think I've already updated my profile, but in case I did it wrong, I'm in Arkansas, USA.  I sure do appreciate the help!

[ami-man]

Hi Adam,

No problem, these forums are intended to help like minded people who have a love for jukeboxes, I just prefer Rowe Ami, Ami or Bal Ami jukeboxes, I have worked on Rock Ola, Seeburg and NSM. I left Wurlitzer well alone be they American or German based.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[1452spunky]

Ami_man....

Ok, first, thanks for this forum and anyone that chooses to help others...I participate in many forums, but one that I am an expert in...this is NOT one of them...lol

Ok, it is a JAL Rowe AMI unit. Everything has been gone through and adjusted as per my manual...I can follow manuals and Maintenance fine.

Here is the issue, once the arm goes all the way across the record, I here the magnet switch connect, it does mute, but it doesn't kick in the relay to start back up. In other words, the needle just sits there in the groove.
I reached down and touched the relay that is below all this and with the slightest touch, continues the full process...I checked all the wires to the relay, even resoldered them. Not sure how to test this relay, if that is the issue...soooo, how would I test this relay ( yes I have a tester, but no expert at using it )? If its not the relay, where would I look next ? I have a wiring diagram book as well, again, it might as well be in Chinese...

I have this machine sold to a friend, but have now spent a few days trying to track down this last issue. I would even have no problem in paying someone to help my via phone and pay them thru paypal...

Please help and I appreciate it !!

[ami-man]

Hello 1452spunky,

I would replace the plug in relay, or if it is a fixed open contact relay clean the contacts by using a paper taper to clean the tips of the contacts (DO NOT USE ANY KIND OF SPRAY).

If the relay on your Search Unit has a plug in relay rather than a wired in one, you could just try this one to see if it is the a faulty relay.


Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Josephs]

Hi, Joseph here from The Netherlands, Europe and I’ve a CD-100 (plain) from 1990, it’s an original from Rowe US.
A lot of reading I did on several fora to find better things/upgrades for my Jukebox.

EDIT (removed not needed info)
I’ve problems with a new EPROM v4.3 I bought on ebay US. When Power ON: Board error red light and errors like 14-01, 14-04 and 14-05. I found what the errors are. Putted back my good-old v2.3, no red light and, strange errors and everything is working. The sender told me he had a bad chip batch, so he’ll send me a new one. I'll test it next week when it arrives.

For now, no questions. Thanks

[partytime-excellent]

Hi!

New jukebox owner, new to the site & looking forward to becoming an active member


I have a Rowe R-87 that has been sitting in a friend's garage for a few years in perfect working condition but collecting dust. I FINALLY convinced her to give it to me and  upon moving it the unit tipped over a bit and now I'm having some issues:

The tonearm lands on the record fine but only seems to make one full revolution before getting stuck and skipping in that specific spot. Even when I manually move the tonearm and drop it anywhere on the record, the same thing occurs. The tonearm doesn't seem to advance at all, though it does engage and drop on the vinyl when summoned and go back to it's resting spot once the selection is cancelled.

I did a fairly thorough visual inspection and everything seems to look good; nothing is loose, I cleaned up the dust and build up (which was nominal) with orange wood sticks. It seems fine to the naked eye.
I just ordered a manual online, so I don't have access to one yet.

Any thoughts/advice would be greatly appreciated- I am completely inexperienced with jukeboxes, though I am fairly handy with electronics and quite excited to learn this new trade
Thanks in advance!

Ardy
LA, CA
USA

[Fredro]

Hi again. This is more on the R-92 I have been working on. I received the manual I have been waiting on Thursday. I spent the day reading through it and then went on to try to correct the ERR30 issue I have been having.

By the book, I have completed the following:

1. Cleaned the gear teeth with denatured alcohol. There was some minor buildup but it's clean as a whistle now.
2. Cleaned the optical sensor.
3. Reinstalled and aligned the sensor. Using my fluke meter, I adjusted and set the optical switch index and the optical switch home settings exactly by the instructions.

All the voltages are right where the manual says to set them to. When I rotate the magazine by hand, I get the proper flashing of the LEDs on the mechanism control module. It reads the home position when at slot 99 and the index LED flashes when the magazine is rotated by hand. I have to feel that the sensor functions properly and the alignment/adjustment is correct at this point.

When I move the switch from service to normal, I get and immediate Err30 message and after about 30 seconds I get an Err34 message. The errors clear when I go into service mode and type in 699. One of my questions is this - Is there something mechanical that happens when placing the switch to the normal position? Is the magazine supposed to rotate? When I move the switch to the on position, I hear a click and the LEDs for the magazine motor and the detent illuminate.

This is where I am at now. I am wondering if the mechanical module board or the CCC board might have a problem(s). I checked both visually for broken solder joints, etc. The both visually appear OK.

The battery on the CCC reads 3.1 volts. I also forced an Err0 to restore all factory settings according to the manual instructions.

What should I look at addressing next?

Also - I've been doing more reading and troubleshooting. I find that when the magazine motor and detent are engaged and the LED's are lit, I have approx. 29 volts going to the magazine motor. Nothing happens. I ohmed the coil on the motor and I get approx. 1 ohm. Would it be safe to assume that the motor is bad and that this might be giving the Err30 fault? The book tells me that within 56 to 70 milliseconds the CCC tells the mechanical control board to energize the motor and detent.

Thanks again for any help

[ami-man]

Hello Fredro,

I would remove the sprag assembly (40721901) by removing the three fixing screws & washers.

Remove the cable to the motor and srag solenoid.

Test the motor by latching up a 28 volt AC supply, you could take this from the service switch or power supply, hold the sprag linkage so if the motor springs into life the sprag will allow it to turn.

Regarding the resistance I have just checked on a motor and your reading is about right.
When you are checking the motor on the bench you can see if the clutch on the motor is engaging.

Please let us know how you get on.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK

[Fredro]

Hi Alan - I did what you said to do. I removed the assembly and disengaged the detent so the motor spins free by hand. Spins pretty freely by turning the sprag. I can see the motor armature spinning by hand. I applied the 28 volts (actually it comes up to 29volts here in my house). Nothing happens. Not even a hum of any sort. With the power going to the motor for a while, it's not even warm. Stone cold.

I have also just found that I have the 29 volts going to the motor all the time regardless of whether the board's magazine motor LED is lit up or not.

The detent solenoid switches on and off properly with the detent LED when I press the scan and cancel switch.

So, apparently, there is a breakdown in the motor although the windings seem good and something is letting the voltage through the mechanical circuit board to the motor even when it's supposed to be off.

Thanks for the correspondence. 

[ami-man]

Hello Fredro,

Did you connect the motor from the mechanism control board or from another location as I suggested?

Do you have access to spare parts in your country? if not I can supply you with a good used motor or new old stock. I supply worldwide.

If you require the above please email me.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co,uk

[Fredro]

Hi Alan - Actually, Since the 29 volts existed on the wires for the magazine motor, I tested it using those. But if you think I need to find another power source to test it on, I will. I'll get in the manual and track down a separate 28 volt supply coming from the power supply. I'm carrying the unit to work today to have our electrical technician give me his opinion on it. This is the type of stuff he bench tests everyday.

One question though - Taped under the wrapping tape to the side of the windings there is a very small (about 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch by 3/16ths inch) little metal and red plastic box that is wired into the start of the windings on one incoming leg. I thought this might be some sort of thermal overload or maybe even a starting capacitor. I get the 29 volts on both the in leg and the out leg on this little box.  Any ideas what this may be?

Thanks for the offer for the spare parts purchase. I will definitely keep you in mind. I am thinking of trying to get up a small parts inventory to keep for this player. I looked on Ebay here in the U.S. and found a used (tested good) motor/sprag/solenoid unit so I went anhead and sent for it.  It's good to know I can rely on someone to help with spare parts.

Thanks!

[ami-man]

Hello Fredro,

On the earlier motors such as the Search Unit drive motor it was a thermal cut out.
Personnally I have never had to replace one of these motors in over 30 years, I have supplied them to customers. but I have never had to remove the tape but my guess would be a thermal cutn out. If this is the case then link it out for a test on the motor.

Regards
Alan

Alan Hood
ami-man
UK