Help with couple problems with Stern Nine Ball restoration (RESOLVED)

[arzoo]

Hey All,
I've been restoring a Stern Nine Ball and have just two remaining issues.

The first is that the left slingshot bumper won't work. The solenoid fires during the test, so this must be a switch issue. I've traced the wire back to the connector on the MPU board and all seems fine.  Any suggestions on what to try?

The second issue is a bit embarrassing - this pin has a non-active pop bumper and I need to change the bulb. Problem is, for the life of me I can't seem to figure out how to get the top cap off. There are no screws. I would assume it's just held on with friction or I must be missing something obvious. Any ideas?

Thanks

Resolutions:
The cap was glued on - had to partially crack it to get it off.
One of the sling shot switches had a short - while fixing another connection, some solder dripped onto the base of the leaf switch (across the non-conductive spacers) effectively shorting the switch in the closed position.

[Ken Layton]

That cap should be a snap fit. Just rock the cap gently as you lift it off.

[arzoo]

Turns out the cap was glued on. I was able to remove it with only minor damage (small crack).

[ChadTower]

That happens a lot.  The cheapo tabs break on those caps and people glue them back on.  In the long run it's best to replace those broken caps in a restoration.  Fortunately this one isn't a super expensive one like in a Fathom or Xenon.

When you say "traced it back and the switch wire is fine" do you mean to say you checked continuity or you eyeballed it? 

[TopJimmyCooks]

change that pin on the connector - or trace continuity through that wire/connector/trace on the board to the TIp transistor.  diode check the driver board transistor.  Even if it tests ok they are sometimes bad - replace if unsure.  Past the transistor to the chip I'm out of my board repair depth. 

[arzoo]

That happens a lot.  The cheapo tabs break on those caps and people glue them back on.  In the long run it's best to replace those broken caps in a restoration.  Fortunately this one isn't a super expensive one like in a Fathom or Xenon.

When you say "traced it back and the switch wire is fine" do you mean to say you checked continuity or you eyeballed it?

Yes - I had traced it all back. Turns out there was a short, so the switch was in the closed position as far as the MPU was concerned. Thanks, for the help.

[ChadTower]

Could you provide details on the short so the solution sits in the same thread as the question?