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Electrical Issues: Hatch Lift - Battletech Pod - Tail Gate Lift Motor
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kahlid74:

--- Quote from: BadMouth on January 30, 2013, 08:55:24 am ---I'd make the door slightly oversized and rest on the outside of the main body.

An easy way to appease the safety police would be to join the main part of the door to the part that's being lifted by hinges on top.  Maybe sprung hinges.
The door should still stay rigid as it is being lifted, but if something gets interferes on the way when it's closing, the motor will keep moving to the closed position, but the springs on the door will keep it from crushing fingers (anymore than the weight of the door could crush fingers).

--- End quote ---

Ugh, but it's so freaking big dude.  I also would need a door slightly large than 4' tall which the limit my car can transfer at any give time.  I suppose I could try this and see how it works.  I suppose I should try it.  I'll do it Thursday when I get a good chunk of free time in the afternoon.
Gray_Area:
I'm lost. I was lost at the outset. What the hell is this?
kahlid74:

--- Quote from: Gray_Area on January 31, 2013, 01:16:47 am ---I'm lost. I was lost at the outset. What the hell is this?

--- End quote ---

I'll be starting a build thread soon but essentially I'm making a Battletech VR 3.0 POD with a hatch door that opens automatically via a Power Liftgate Motor.
BadMouth:

--- Quote from: kahlid74 on January 30, 2013, 08:57:27 am ---
--- Quote from: BadMouth on January 30, 2013, 08:55:24 am ---I'd make the door slightly oversized and rest on the outside of the main body.

An easy way to appease the safety police would be to join the main part of the door to the part that's being lifted by hinges on top.  Maybe sprung hinges.
The door should still stay rigid as it is being lifted, but if something gets interferes on the way when it's closing, the motor will keep moving to the closed position, but the springs on the door will keep it from crushing fingers (anymore than the weight of the door could crush fingers).

--- End quote ---

Ugh, but it's so freaking big dude.  I also would need a door slightly large than 4' tall which the limit my car can transfer at any give time.  I suppose I could try this and see how it works.  I suppose I should try it.  I'll do it Thursday when I get a good chunk of free time in the afternoon.

--- End quote ---

Does the door have to extend to the bottom edge of the cab?  I think it would look just as good with a 5 or 6 inch sill that you have to step over to get in (think Jeep Wrangler)
kahlid74:

--- Quote from: BadMouth on January 31, 2013, 10:13:05 am ---
--- Quote from: kahlid74 on January 30, 2013, 08:57:27 am ---
--- Quote from: BadMouth on January 30, 2013, 08:55:24 am ---I'd make the door slightly oversized and rest on the outside of the main body.

An easy way to appease the safety police would be to join the main part of the door to the part that's being lifted by hinges on top.  Maybe sprung hinges.
The door should still stay rigid as it is being lifted, but if something gets interferes on the way when it's closing, the motor will keep moving to the closed position, but the springs on the door will keep it from crushing fingers (anymore than the weight of the door could crush fingers).

--- End quote ---

Ugh, but it's so freaking big dude.  I also would need a door slightly large than 4' tall which the limit my car can transfer at any give time.  I suppose I could try this and see how it works.  I suppose I should try it.  I'll do it Thursday when I get a good chunk of free time in the afternoon.

--- End quote ---

Does the door have to extend to the bottom edge of the cab?  I think it would look just as good with a 5 or 6 inch sill that you have to step over to get in (think Jeep Wrangler)

--- End quote ---

Great question.  At some point I may in fact cut it in half, because of it's weight and stability but right now it's kind of a challange, to make it work as is.

So I reattached the door, outside and it can now move up/down with a little effort.  I also installed some screen door springs to give it some more stability from the top.  I've got the struts on order from the auto dealership and they should arrive tomorrow.  I'll try to install them over the weekend.  The junkyard wanted 10 a pop for old used ones, the dealership wanted 15 a pop but I got them down to 12 for new ones.  The dealership also ordered me 20 so I can try a bunch of different sizes and PSI and then just keep what works.  So I'm excited now to get it in.

I've begun programming the arduino.  Phase 1 is making the arduino be the brains for two relays and two arcade buttons.  When you press one button it goes one way and when you press the other it goes the opposite.  These functions in the Arduino will be re-used with the keypad.



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