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Electrical Issues: Hatch Lift - Battletech Pod - Tail Gate Lift Motor
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danny_galaga:

--- Quote from: kahlid74 on January 25, 2013, 11:05:50 am ---So the top part of the hatch is now working as expected.


Rocker switch and relays have arrived.  Electrical wiring to commence.

I've cut the Side door but it needs a little trimming to fit.  The width was calculated wrong so I've got a 4x12 rectangle in the bottom left that is open.  If the current door fits/works I'll just affix another piece with an extension/wood glue/bondo

The motor arm is strong enough to lift the wood but when I hooked it up and tried it once I noticied that the arm moved away from the board in a slant, which since I affixed it to the wood with bolts got very tough about 50-85 degrees up.  The issue was the arm connects to the motor on a 45 degree slant, which is fine if it didn't move but when moves with the wood it moves out to the left, resulting in an angry motor.  To semi-resolve this I simply tilted the left side of the motor up, to where it's kind of slanted and the slant on the motor is more closely associated with a 70-80 degree above 0.

The motion up is a jerk at the start because it's easy but as it climbs it encounters resistance and becomes smooth.  The motion down is smooth until about 35-40 degrees above 0 and then it comes down hard.  I associate this to the fact that I can move the track on the motor moderately easy, which makes sense since you can also open the lift gate by hand.  So it's 100% confirmed that I will need struts to let the door close smoothly without force and also lift smoothly at the first phase.  I assume once I add the side door the motion up will be smooth with all the weight associated.

So now to find struts.  At the junkyard most are ballpoint, which creates a problem, since I really need the plate style.  Additionally it's anywhere in the range of 15 to -15 degrees out, and all of these struts are firmly in their associated cars.  The motor was easily removed with two bolts but these struts I'll have to take apart lots of paneling and I just don't want to be out there spending so much time doing that.  I might take a trip back and check it out again.

--- End quote ---

Damn, that is looking good!  Bear in mind no load is VERY different to loaded with car stuff. The figures you saw before sound about right. A stalled DC motor is essentially a short. If it's connected to a 12V battery, I reckon 50 amps easy. Of course, if it's connected to a power supply, it probably can't even supply 50 amps (the battery can supply nearer 1000). I'd say in operation with some load it would be between 10 and 20 amps (with a battery). Anyway, it all seems moot now since you have it working!
danny_galaga:
Oh, and with the clutch. Just had a thought. If it needs to be powered on to engage, you could hook it up to an automotive pop out circuit breaker, say 15 or 20 amps. If the hatch overloads because you got your neck stuck in there (we'll miss you Kahlid!) then it'll pop and hatch is free. Of course you'd definitely want struts because if it popped near fully open, then the lid might slam down hard.

You've inspired me for a a future project I've been thinking about. This is great work!

About the struts. I used to work at an architectural hardware wholesaler. they also sold gas struts, which they had the machinery to gas to various pressures. This isn't going to help you directly, because I live in Australia, but it's food for thought for another line of inquiry. I can't remember what the cost of the struts was though...

Man, you've got me thinking though!
kahlid74:
UGH.  So I got the side door attached and I recessed it into the pod and then fuuuudggge, I realized that the mechanism is going to pull the door up a little bit before it pulls it out.  I haven't run the motor yet with it but I fear it won't go up cause it will be stuck.  Son of a bees wax.  There's me and my not actually thinking it through before I go wood glue/nailing/screwing it together.  Fudge sticks.

PL1:
Looks like your main problem will be with the area outlined in red.

Most of that length will probably just need an almost full-depth 45 degree chamfer like the diagram on the right.

If that doesn't quite clear the upper fixed edge, you can cut the edge back and use countersunk aluminum flat stock on the door to bridge the gap.



Scott
kahlid74:

--- Quote from: PL1 on January 26, 2013, 12:29:58 pm ---Looks like your main problem will be with the area outlined in red.

Most of that length will probably just need an almost full-depth 45 degree chamfer like the diagram on the right.

If that doesn't quite clear the upper fixed edge, you can cut the edge back and use countersunk aluminum flat stock on the door to bridge the gap.



Scott

--- End quote ---

Good call.  I'll look at the tools I have and how I could make this cut.  Jigsaw/Circular Saw/Router.  Hmmm.  I'm not really going to be able to take the door off so it's going to be a tricky cut.
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