*SCRATCH BUILD* Slim Cab - 32" LCD - (99.9%) COMPLETE! (for now...)

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics of the underside of the control panel.  The wiring isn't as nice as some other examples, but it was pretty easy/straightforward.  I used groovygamegear's wiring harnesses, which saved be the trouble of stripping 120 ends of wire (I am using illuminated buttons).  Stripping 120 wire ends would have taken me hours.

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics of the cab, almost complete.  I'll get some better close-up pics as soon as I finish up.  All I have left to do is mount the 5v trackball light, install the 12v LED marquee lights, order and create the bezel (will be using 1/4" acrylic cell cast), create the marquee, and configure the software.  I also ordered some usb NES, SNES, and N64 controllers for my nintendo emulators.  Let me know if you have questions/requests for close-ups.

 

[a1pharm]

I wanted illuminated sticks, but I didn't want to buy them.  So I came up with a method to have an illuminated effect.

-First, I purchased colored, translucent ball tops, to match the player's color (red or blue)
-Then I purchased some naked led's w/ resistors from groovygamegear.  I used 2 LEDs per stick
-After wiring the LED to the resistor, I sandwiched the light between the plastic housing, and the mounting plate, with the bulb exposed right next to the stick (but the stick can't hit it)

The sticks came with black dustwashers, which block the light, and I couldn't find clear/translucent dustwashers, I was stuck.

So I used some of the excess plexi I used for the marquee, and used a hole saw to cut out some discs.  It took 6 attempts to do it right, but I had a lot of plexi leftover.  I then had to widen the stick hole w/ a 3/8" bit.  I flame polished the edge of the discs, and used a palm sander to rough up the underside of each disc.

Now the light travels up and hits the ball top, while being properly diffused by the roughed plexi washers.  I'll add some pics soon.

 

Oh, and the LEDs can handle 5v - 12v.  I'm using 12v on them, and they match the buttons beautifully.

EDIT: pics added

[a1pharm]

I completed the marquee lighting recently.  As you can see, I did not use fluorescent/cathode lighting.  Instead, I used high output white LED 12v lighting.  I purchased a 5 meter roll of the stuff from a Chinese company (it's not made in the USA).  The type I bought is able to be cut.  It also has a 3M sticky backside, so applying it is as easy as peel and stick.

I made 5 rows with the stuff, and still had a lot left over.  It cost me $16 (including shipping).  It is way brighter, more white, more energy efficient, and cooler operating temperature than any other light source.

As you can see, I applied it to peg board.  I did this for two reasons:

1. The holes allow for adequate ventilation
2. I needed a VERY thin option, given that my speakers were very close to the front.

When this light is turned on, it is somewhat blinding.  I'll deal with that later, I guess 

More updates coming a little later today...

[a1pharm]

This post shows how my keyboard tray operates.

I did not like the idea of a keyboard drawer, and did not want to make it obvious that a tray/drawer system is under the CP.  To do this, i made a door that opens downward.  Behind it is the tray my keyboard rests on.  The tray slides out (like a drawer) but does not have sides. 

Some cab purists may argue I don't need a keyboard, but this cab is also a jukebox, media center, PC gaming "console," workstation (in a pinch), etc.

One problem with using the keyboard: it was hard to see the keys (its not backlit).  I had lots of extra LED strip light left, so I made a keyboard tray light.  When it's turned on and the room is dark, it looks awesome (will take some HDR pics when the project is done).

[a1pharm]

Here's the keyboard tray lights off, then on

 

[Richie_jones]

Great pics mate love the tray..

Have you had the marquee lights on yet thats a lot of leds there!!!

[a1pharm]

Yep, I've had the marquee on (pic  Img_6711.jpg has them on).  They are very bright.  I have 5 rows of LEDs.  If I need to make it dimmer, I may remove 2 of the rows.  I'll make that decision when I get the marquee art installed.

Cheers!
 

[Richie_jones]

Are you going for sideart?
Whats your pc specs?

[a1pharm]

I won't do CP art (the focus is in its simplicity).  As for side art: I'm undecided.  The laminate sides are pretty nice all by themselves.  If I do decide to do side art, it will likely take me months in order to get everything just the way I want.  So for now, the only art I'll be making is for the marquee.

side note: plexi bevel rail is welded, just have to mount it, paint the bezel, and I'm done (except for art).  More pics to follow soon.

[a1pharm]

Here are the computer specs:
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 AM3 3.4Ghz
RAM: 4 gb DDR 1333
HDD: 2 x 250 gb running in a striped raid configuration (for 500 gb total)
Video: PowerColor AX6950 2GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16

It can run BF3 and Borderlands 2 @ 1080p, > 60fps with all settings maxxed.  It also handles Bubble Bobble. 

[Richie_jones]

Wow bubble bobble maxed out...lol.

Nice specs

[a1pharm]

What do you think of the Marquee art?  I wanted something simple, not too game-ish, not too distracting, and completely original.

What do you think?

[Drnick]

The words blend into the background, try giving them a border or bring them forward somehow to make them pop.

[a1pharm]

UPDATE:

My artwork is completed and installed.  All of my emulators and roms are functioning properly.  I will be putting the finishing touches on my FE this evening, pics/vids to follow soon.  Project almost to the 99.99% complete mark!

Thanks for all your help, BYOACers, couldn't have done it without you!

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

UPDATE:

My artwork is completed and installed.  All of my emulators and roms are functioning properly.  I will be putting the finishing touches on my FE this evening, pics/vids to follow soon.  Project almost to the 99.99% complete mark!

Thanks for all your help, BYOACers, couldn't have done it without you!

 

Really like the look of this cab so fresh. And that wiring job  Very Very nice..

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics, as promised.  Let me know if you want close-ups/other angles/ other shots.

Enjoy!

[a1pharm]

Here are some better quality HDR shots (used a 50mm lens at F 2.8, created HDR from 3 shot composites).

[a1pharm]

Here's some info on the software configuration:

I am using Hyperspin 1.0, and downloaded art from the Hyperspin ftp.  I also incorporated 480p video clips from EMUmovies' ftp.  I have MAME, Gameboy, NES, SNES, and N64 fully configured (with custom wheel art for each system's titles), along with custom themes for all MAME games.  Virtual boy is not fully configured in hyperspin yet.  I just received some red/blue 3D glasses in the mail yesterday, in order to take full advantage of the 3D aspect of Virtualboy (I am using vbjin emulator).

This setup also has a very, very beefy computer as its core, and it runs BF3, Borderlands 2, and pretty much anything else I can throw at it with settings maxxed and a resolution of 1080.  Tiger Woods PGA Tour 08 plays very nicely with the trackball (much more visually appealing than the 2D Golden Tee series).

Let me know what questions you have.

Cheers!
 

[a1pharm]

I want to thank Randy, over at www.GroovyGameGear.com for his superb service.  Some of the LEDs on my white buttons failed.  Randy graciously shipped me replacement LEDs for the white buttons, and a few for my red and blue buttons (just in case).

I am very impressed with this company, and will try to use them exclusively in the future (I have a bartop on the drawing board already).

Again, thank you Randy and GGG. 

-a1pharm

[GIZMOGAMES]

I was actually going to suggest swapping the red and blue round so it would be blue on red and red on blue adding the illusion of the depth you were looking for and an added twist also use some smoked plexi to also defuse the glare on the marquee just thoughts tho looks awsome none the less

[a1pharm]

also use some smoked plexi to also defuse the glare on the marquee just thoughts tho looks awsome none the less

I used www.zazzle.com to print the marquee, and they used (relatively) thick paper.  This would have been problematic, if I were not using uber-bright LEDs.  Fortunately, the brightness is perfectly balanced with the thick stock.  Thus, I didn't need to remove any LED strips, or mess around with tinting plexi.   

I'm in the late planning stages for a special bartop project (also will be a scratch build, minimalist yet traditional design).  Stay tuned

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

The reason I respect your opinions you have given me on my build, is your ability to build things like this. That control panel wiring job is beautiful, The cab looks super fresh. Love it just love it...

[a1pharm]

From Chris John Hunter:

Hi A1Pharm


Very impressed with your slim but wide upright cab. Just the ticket. Black and Red very classy design.
So you can use a really good size monitor and keep the slim styling look.

I am looking to put together something similar. Do you have some plans I could share?

Would much appreciate it.

Kind regards
Chris John Hunter

Chris,

I made the plans myself from scratch.  The most important first step was creating the side panel design.  I included my blueprint in my build (it is a scan of what I drew to scale on graph paper).  It has all measurements and angles needed to transfer the design to MDF.  The lower panel angles are not specified, but I did mark their beginning and ending points on the paper, so if you draw those points as "dots" on the MDF, and then connect them, you will get the same angle I did.

All front and rear panels are the same width, which is dependent on how wide your monitor/TV is, and how much clearance you want on either side of the monitor/TV (I kept my clearance at 1/4" on either side, I could have gone with 1/8" or even flush, but I wasn't as confident in my woodworking skills as I am now).

I think the only measurements I didn't include were the speaker hole measurements, the CP measurements, and the gap measurement (for how much the side panels extend beyond the front/rear panels).  I can check these by tomorrow morning at the earliest if you need them that soon.

Let me know what questions you have, but post them on my build page, that way others can learn from the conversation.

Cheers!
 

[BadMouth]

Nice clean build. 

Now that it's playable, what do you think of being that close to the 32" screen while playing?
Would you do it the same way if starting over?

[a1pharm]

The 32" is INCREDIBLE, and would definitely do it over again in a heartbeat!  (I have to play it standing up, or on a very high stool)

I am also emulating scanlines for MAME, and the other emulators (except for virtual boy - no scanlines).

I am especially a fan of the keyboard tray layout.  It's more of a telescoping desk than a drawer, and very ergonomic to use.

My only regret is not incorporating sticks that are easier to switch from 8way to 4way (this will probably be an upgrade I make by the end of the year).

I hope more people use LEDs for their marquee lights; they are super cheap, easy to use, and have a cooler operating temp than all other options.

[micahman33]

Cab looks great man...really nice work. I like how clean and simple it is. What are you using for Marquee rails? I just finally got my vinyl printed and my plexi, but I need to find something to hold the marquee plexi in place. Thanks

[eds1275]

Nice clean build. 

Now that it's playable, what do you think of being that close to the 32" screen while playing?
Would you do it the same way if starting over?

I also have a 32" in my spinal tap cab. It is pretty awesome, and I was really worried about being too close to it. Perhaps it would be too close but most of the games are not widescreen so get put in the middle with black bars down the sides. I'm not sure what that brings the screen size down to, but it feels "right," like it's close to what I'm used to (mortal kombat, killer instinct, street fighter)

[DickTurpin]

Crikey DM!

I have a LED TV I would like to use its 32inch as well. It has a mode on the television to switch to 4:3 so I know it can do that mode.


How does the 32inch screen work with 4:3 and Vertical games?
Looks awesome BTW.

[a1pharm]

Crikey DM!

I have a LED TV I would like to use its 32inch as well. It has a mode on the television to switch to 4:3 so I know it can do that mode.


How does the 32inch screen work with 4:3 and Vertical games?
Looks awesome BTW.

Even though this screen is nearly always cropped w/ MAME and other emulated games, it its still larger than the stock monitors used in nearly all traditional arcade games.  An LED TV would be best, because they have insane contrast ratios (the black bars on the side of the active screen will be TRULY black).

As far as Marquee rails:
I used aluminum L edging you can find in any hardware store.  I cut them to length, primed with metal spray primer, and sprayed them matte black.  The bottom rail was attached with gorilla glue, and the top rail was installed with screws (in the same fashion as Martijin's build).  They work great, also cheap.

Cheers!
 

[Felsir]

An LED TV would be best, because they have insane contrast ratios (the black bars on the side of the active screen will be TRULY black).

Also LED TVs have a wide viewing angle and produce very little heat. I have a 32" LED (Samsung UE32EH5000) in my cocktail table and I'm very happy with it.

[nitz]

Nice build.

I'm curious, does it seem nice and stable? I've been toying with doing something with a 32" LCD in a slim cab, but worry a bit about it tipping. I was thinking of going something along the lines of a 23 or 24 inch deep base, but going by your sketch in reply #7, it looks like you went with just 17 inches

So if that's stable, I guess I'm worrying for nothing then.

[a1pharm]

Nice build.

I'm curious, does it seem nice and stable? I've been toying with doing something with a 32" LCD in a slim cab, but worry a bit about it tipping. I was thinking of going something along the lines of a 23 or 24 inch deep base, but going by your sketch in reply #7, it looks like you went with just 17 inches

So if that's stable, I guess I'm worrying for nothing then.

This thing is rock solid!  No tipping, no give.  If you notice from the design, nearly all of the weight is centered at the center of the cab.  In addition, most of the weight is below the CP level, which makes the center of gravity low (this makes tipping nearly impossible with very heavy use).

Also, my CP overhang is just enough to provide a comfortable palm rest.  If you make a slim cab, make sure you don't put a huge frankenpanel on it, otherwise, if you have significant overhang (much more than mine), it may be able to tip.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Cheers!
 

[nitz]

Thanks for the response.

That makes me feel better about trying to do a slim cab. While you definitely have to take care designing and building something like this, I think I overestimate the chances of tipping because I'm paranoid about someone getting hurt.

[lcmgadgets]

Finally checked this 1 out--that is 1 nice, clean, classic build. & in 6 months! Congrats! 

[Hockeyboy]

A couple of quick questions for you on this build:

1) What keyboard emulator/controller did you go with? I can't tell from the angle in the underside CP pics.

2) Your joysticks are bottom-mounted, right? Are your shafts long enough (yeah, I know, that's what SHE said!) with mounting them on the bottom of 3/4" material?

Build looks great, btw!! Nice job.

[a1pharm]

A couple of quick questions for you on this build:

1) What keyboard emulator/controller did you go with? I can't tell from the angle in the underside CP pics.

2) Your joysticks are bottom-mounted, right? Are your shafts long enough (yeah, I know, that's what SHE said!) with mounting them on the bottom of 3/4" material?

Build looks great, btw!! Nice job.

1) Keywiz by www.groovygamegear.com (the PS2 port version)

2) Yes, they are bottom mounted.  I bought Zippy joysticks from groovygamegear.com, and chose the "Long Shaft" option (again, that's what she said)

Let me know if you have other questions,

Cheers!
 

[a1pharm]

Finally checked this 1 out--that is 1 nice, clean, classic build. & in 6 months! Congrats! 

Thanks!  The construction is complete, and the marquee will do for now.  I hope to make some artwork (from scratch) this winter for the sides and CP, and an updated marquee.

[CaptainMarvel]

I am very impressed with this router, I don't know if I could build this thing without it!

Out of curiosity, did you get that router from Harbor Freight

[a1pharm]

I am very impressed with this router, I don't know if I could build this thing without it!

Out of curiosity, did you get that router from Harbor Freight

I got it from Menards, which is like a Home Depot, but with better prices.  I think I saw the same one on harbor freight a few months ago, as it seems that once manufacturer makes it, and third parties market it.  It's a good router for light work, but for making every cut in a full sized cab, it is ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.  I would recommend trying something with more that 2hp if you are giving it heavy use (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD is a great one that I'll be upgrading to sometime this winter).  If you are buying a router for the first time, and think you'll only use it for one build, the one that I bought should suffice, just make sure you utilize it as much as possible when you can still return it, as it WILL die on you eventually.

Cheers!