*SCRATCH BUILD* Slim Cab - 32" LCD - (99.9%) COMPLETE! (for now...)

[a1pharm]

So I've been lurking on this forum for a long time now, and I decided to take the plunge and build a cabinet.  I initially thought using a CRT would be the way to go, but decided that over time, a slim cab would be a better choice for my living situation, and thus went the LCD route.  This cab will reside in my basement/ rec room, and I intend for it to double as a media station, as well as a TV.  This cab will likely eventually house all of my old Nintendo consoles as well (NES, SNES, N64, and Wii).  I intend to place these behind the coin door panel, and may have to do some creative tinkering to make it happen.

Stay tuned!

[a1pharm]

I had to buy a number of tools in order to build this cab to the quality standard I want.  I have never used a router, and have not used a variable speed jigsaw before.  In summary, I'm a complete woodworking noob!

I will detail some of my learning moments with using these new tools, in hopes that it will help other people who have never used them before.

Here's the tool list I'll be using to build this thing:

Plunge router (make sure you get a plunge router, it makes things A LOT easier!) - 1 and 3/4 HP - $55 new
Variable speed jig saw - $25 new
Drywall 48" T-square - $12 new
Spring clamps (5) - $1/each
3 locking clamps - already owned
2 Sawhorses - $30 (had to assemble w/ 2x4's myself - cheapest route)
Protracter w/ slide - $3.27
Assorted router bits - $13.60
Flush Trim router bit (1/2" diameter, 1/4" shank, 1" length, triple flute, bearing) - $15.58
1 1/8" Spade drill bit - $5.67 (for drilling button holes in control panel)
Slot cutter for router (3-wing, .062" (1/16") Slotting Cutter, Whiteside# 6700A) - $12.97
Arbor for slot cutter (holds the cutting wheel) - $7.64
Cordless 18v drill - already had
Shop vacs (necessary when building indoors) - already had
3 ft Level - already had

Also used lots of graph paper, pencils, sharpeners, rulers, erasers, and other small hand tools most people should have around the house.

I'll post pics of the tools this evening or tomorrow morning.

[Louis Tully]

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[a1pharm]

I am going to use the X-Men style from the 1992 cartoon to adorn the cab, and my wife agrees this will look great.

I have the first side of the cab cut, just waiting on my flush trim bit to arrive in the mail before I cut the other side.

Pics to follow soon 

[a1pharm]

Here are some tool pictures

[a1pharm]

Here's my work area.  I'm building this in my basement during the cold and very long Wisconsin winter.  In my next post, I'll show you what I built in order to keep MDF dust at bay (it actually works pretty good!)

[a1pharm]

Here is my contraption/method for keeping routered dust from getting everywhere in my basement (and the furnace, which would pump this dust everywhere in the house).

I attached a small shopvac to my router.  The router I bought has a dust collection area.  The inside diameter of this plastic collector is the same as the outside dimension of the small shopvac's hose.  When I plug them together, and turn the vac on, the router spits dust into the collector, which is whisked away by the vac!

But how do you keep the vac from falling over, or getting in the way while routering?  Put it on a track, and suspend that track from the ceiling, of course! 

Now, whenever I move the router, the vac moves with it (the power cables are also appropriately handled). 

This contraption is not necessary, but makes working indoors much easier 

[a1pharm]

Here's the blueprint I created for my cab, it is simple, but draws a lot of inspiration from Martijn's http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,112721.0.html cab.

Notice the angles of the monitor area, and CP area.  The monitor will be tilted back at least 15 degrees (to 75 degrees off 90), and will likely be recessed 1.5 inches.  I am not sure if I will make a bezel, or just paint over the backside of some plexi.

Also notice that my CP will not be built in a box, and then placed on the cab; it will be built right into the cab.  I also will have a drawer slide out from the angled area under the CP (this will house a keyboard and mouse).

I am still not sure what I will do to utilize the space behind the coin box area.  I want that area to house my old consoles, but I am still debating how best to achieve this, while still providing a visually striking cab.

If you have suggestions /questions , please let me know!

EDIT: after I installed my subwoofer, PC, coin mechs, and modded Wii, there just isnt any more space left to put additional consoles.  I've abandoned placing them behind the coin door, as I simply don't have room.  I ordered some USB controllers that mimic the NES, SNES, and N64 controllers.  We'll see if those can properly emulate the original experience.

[a1pharm]

Here's the display for my baby, a Sceptre 1080p 32" LCD 60 Hz HDTV (X325BV-FHD).  I got this off of amazon.com used for $207.70 w/ shipping.

The sound system is relatively mediocre, but this is by design.  I intend to use the digital audio out on the computer I will use.  This will allow me to plug the cab into my 5 channel surround system in my basement/rec room.  Just imagine how awesome all that waka waka waka is going to sound 

The speaker system I'm using is the 2.1 channel Logitech Z313.  It has remote volume/power controls and a headphone jack.

[a1pharm]

Here is a pic of one side of my cab.  I'm waiting for my router's flush trim bit to arrive via mail before I cut the other side of the cab.  I'll try to take more pictures of the process.  I got carried away while drawing the plan to the board, rough cutting, then routering, and forgot to take pictures.

I'll try not to let that happen again 

[Martijn]

Good luck, keep in mind that the space between the control panel and the angeled side of the front is very little. Dont use to long pushbuttons or sticks

[a1pharm]

Good luck, keep in mind that the space between the control panel and the angeled side of the front is very little. Dont use to long pushbuttons or sticks

The vertical aspect to the front of the cab, below where the CP will go is 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) tall.  From what I could find, this is adequate for most buttons/sticks (if it's not from your experience, let me know!)   

Did you use standard height buttons, or special ones?

I also intend for the CP to be pushed back 1.5" into the monitor area, so this should give me about 8.5" x 30" of space for my buttons/sticks and trackball, and the overhang will provide a comfortable wrist rest.  I don't want to build a Frankenpanel, and these dimensions will enable me to accomplish what I want.

P.S. Thanks Martijn, for posting your slim build, if you didn't, I'm pretty sure my design would be ugly 

[PL1]

The vertical aspect to the front of the cab, below where the CP will go is 2 5/8" (66.7 mm) tall.  From what I could find, this is adequate for most buttons/sticks (if it's not from your experience, let me know!)   

You should be good on buttons.  If you aren't sure, Ultimarc's Goldleafs are REALLY short and have a great feel.

Since you haven't mentioned what sticks you're using, I hope you aren't planning on using Happ Supers -- depending on the angle, you've got close to or less than zero clearance for them and you may need to use your router to make some extra space.

LS-32/Zippyy sticks will fit just fine.

Others . . . 


Scott

[a1pharm]

Thanks for the tips, Scott.  I don't have any experience in the way of what sticks work best, so I may ask for more specific advice as the CP build gets closer.  Also, as long as I don't put the sticks right up to the lip of the cab's forward wall, I have much more depth, which will hopefully be able to accomodate anything.

Also, my tri-fluted flush trim bit came today, along with my slot cutter and 1 1/8 drill bit!  I am cutting out the second half of my cab today, and might use the slot cutter, too.  I'll see how far I get!

[a1pharm]

So I intend to laminate this cab, and use 3/4" T-molding.  I have a few laminate samples coming on Saturday, and hopefully my T-molding samples will arrive quickly, too.

That said, I did not use clamps to hold the sides together; instead, I just screwed them together.  I don't mind of the faces of the sides have a few very small screw holes, as I'm just covering it up anyways.  Having the sides screwed together meant there was NO shifting while I was using the flush trim bit to carve out the second half.  I had less than 1mm worth of wiggle room, and could not afford even the slightest movement.

If you intend to laminate your cab, using screws makes life easier. 

Here are the pics:

[a1pharm]

Identical sides, hooray!   

I am very impressed with this router, I don't know if I could build this thing without it!

[a1pharm]

So I haven't had a whole lot of time recently to hammer out additional work on the cab, but have spent a lot of time thinking about it.  I am hung up on one aspect of my design.  The panel that the coin door will attach to (will be for decoration only, no mech) will somehow open to reveal an array of my old consoles.  I have a few ideas to make this happen, but am struggling with designing a way for this to happen without making the panel look like a door.  If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.   

(I've attached a shoddy mspaint drawing showing the part of the cab I'm talking about.)

[Felsir]

We have this IKEA drawer in the kitchen:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39869669/
When it is closed you don't even see it is a cabinet. The drawer itself is very solid. I believe you can get spare parts from IKEA so you can use that mechanism.

[a1pharm]

We have this IKEA drawer in the kitchen:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S39869669/
When it is closed you don't even see it is a cabinet. The drawer itself is very solid. I believe you can get spare parts from IKEA so you can use that mechanism.

I hadn't thought about using a drawer-like mechanism, that may work great, thanks for the idea 

[Martijn]

if you use that big a lcd and have almost the same width as mine,  keep in mind that that front panel will be VERY heavy, it also is a essential part to hold the slim cab together and in balance, opening that door might tip give balancing problems.

[a1pharm]

if you use that big a lcd and have almost the same width as mine,  keep in mind that that front panel will be VERY heavy, it also is a essential part to hold the slim cab together and in balance, opening that door might tip give balancing problems.

Good point, Martijn.  I tried to make the base of my cab deep enough to be appropriately balanced, but that drawer may prove problematic.  I don't want to, but I may just have to use emulators to play my old games 

Perhaps a novel hinge mechanism may work.    I'll have to see what the hardward store has that may work (or could be modified to work).

Thanks again for the help 

[PL1]

How about a rolling drawer?

The rigid caster wheel acts as an outrigger when the drawer is extended, preventing the cab from tipping over.

[Felsir]

Smart. It makes the drawer a separate thing from the cab right?

[PL1]

Smart. It makes the drawer a separate thing from the cab right?

You could do that, but I was picturing the gray drawer guides in my diagram above hooked to the sides of the cab with the front face (red below -- top view) taking up the whole kickplate.  The inset on the base (green) allows the caster (black) and drawer to retract fully.



Scott

[Felsir]

Ah, yes, I understand what you mean. Thanks for the clarification.

[a1pharm]

How about a rolling drawer?

The rigid caster wheel acts as an outrigger when the drawer is extended, preventing the cab from tipping over.

I like this idea, thanks Scott!  The modified drawer mechanism may work pretty good.  I have to ensure that whatever I make does not look one iota like a drawer.  If I can't achieve that, I may ultimately decide to just build a second console storage cabinet, and attach it to the cab w/ externally mounted RCA jacks.

I haven't been able to work on my cab today (had the whole day off).  My router collet broke into three pieces, and searching 6 stores in two towns yielded no collets.  I guess I'll have to wait until the one I ordered arrives 

On the bright side, I just ordered 3 sheets of 1/16" 4'x8' black laminate from cabinetparts.com.  Much more expensive than painting, but hopefully worth it.

[a1pharm]

So I went to Menard's and bought some new clamps, metal grating for the speakers and vents, hardware to attach a marquee, and a replacement router.  I'll post some pics of the assembled cab shortly.

[a1pharm]

So I finished with the rough woodworking.  I still have 3 angled cuts to make, which will be completed this week.  I put it all together, just to make sure all my measurements worked.  They did 

Here's some pics:

[Felsir]

Looking good. I always love the stage where the flat sheets fit together and transform into what you've been sketching on for days.

[a1pharm]

Updates:

I primed and painted my speaker/vent/subwoofer grill, the marquee rails, and the plexiglass rail

[a1pharm]

I finished putting laminate on all of my surfaces, and installing my 2x2 supports.  I routed off the laminate where I was going to attach the 2x2's.  Then I glued and screwed the 2x2's into place.

Now I'm just waiting on my T-molding and coin door to arrive.  After I install both, I'll get this thing standing again.

[ark_ader]

Looking good. 

[a1pharm]

Just got the t-molding in the mail and installed it recently.  To navigate the corners, you need to be thinking ahead about 12 inches, and to cut it, you just need some run of the mill snips.  I cut t-modling channels after I applied the laminate (see my post above for the type of router bit used).  To install the molding, I used a rubber mallet to pound it into place.  This may be better than a normal metal hammer, because it does not mar the surface of the t-molding.

[a1pharm]

Got the cab put back together and standing, hooray!  Installed a homemade TV mount (the TV has a VESA 200mm configuration), and it fits perfect and level, also, hooray!  Finally, installed the drawer device for the keyboard/mouse, also perfect and level and, also, hooray!

 

[a1pharm]

I'm putting the finishing touches on the cab today.  Still need to design the CP, but everything else should be complete (finally)

 

Pics to follow once I'm finished.

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics.  Just need to create the control panel, and order/install plexiglass for the bezel.  I will be attempting to create the artwork myself, which will likely take months.

If you want close-ups/different angles of any part of my cab, please let me know.

[a1pharm]

So now I am designing the button layout of my control panel.  I have 2 zippy sticks with long shafts that enable me to undermount them to my CP.  I also have 2 sets of 8 buttons (they have LED's too) for players 1 and 2.  I have a usb 3" trackball from ultimarc.  I have 6 extra buttons, 2 of which I'll use for P1/P2.  This leaves me with 4 extra buttons, 1 will be mapped to be a left mouse button.  I have coin door w/ mechs I will use for coin inputs.

I have some questions 

1. What do you think I should use my remaining 3 buttons for? (admin functions - if so, what functions?, or install them like pinball flippers?, or map it as a right mouse button?)
2. Are 8 buttons per player overkill?  I do intend to use NES, SNES, and N64 emulators (and maybe PSX), so I think I will need 8 buttons
2a. What is your favorite 8 button configuration?  (I'd link/upload my slagcoin preference later)
3. Has anyone used a TV tuner card as a video input device for a Wii?  I am running into roadblocks w/ my Diamond TV Wonder 750HD PCIe card which I'm trying to get working in Windows Media Center (I have Win7 Home Premium x64 and a Radeon 6950 HD w/ 2gb)
4. Does anyone have any strong feelings for/ or against using MALA for driving all emulation functions?

The cab is almost complete, thanks to everyone, especially Martijn for his slim cab build post, and Saint for making this site

Cheers 

[PL1]

1. What do you think I should use my remaining 3 buttons for? (admin functions - if so, what functions?, or install them like pinball flippers?, or map it as a right mouse button?)

Start by deciding on your front end and NES/SNES/N64/PSX programs.

Then list the admin buttons you need to perform all required functions, which functions overlap and whether you can reprogram that function to increase logical overlaps. (MAME P1 Start = NES P1 Start = SNES P1 Start, etc.)

After that, if you have some inputs left, you can add pinball flippers -- left flipper = left shift = MAME P1B4 default.   


Scott

[a1pharm]

1. What do you think I should use my remaining 3 buttons for? (admin functions - if so, what functions?, or install them like pinball flippers?, or map it as a right mouse button?)

Start by deciding on your front end and NES/SNES/N64/PSX programs.

Then list the admin buttons you need to perform all required functions, which functions overlap and whether you can reprogram that function to increase logical overlaps. (MAME P1 Start = NES P1 Start = SNES P1 Start, etc.)

After that, if you have some inputs left, you can add pinball flippers -- left flipper = left shift = MAME P1B4 default.   


Scott

Scott, as always, you're beacon of knowledge with sound advice, thank you!   

[Gatsu]

Cab is looking great. I love the slim LCD cabs.

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics of the underside of the control panel.  The wiring isn't as nice as some other examples, but it was pretty easy/straightforward.  I used groovygamegear's wiring harnesses, which saved be the trouble of stripping 120 ends of wire (I am using illuminated buttons).  Stripping 120 wire ends would have taken me hours.

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics of the cab, almost complete.  I'll get some better close-up pics as soon as I finish up.  All I have left to do is mount the 5v trackball light, install the 12v LED marquee lights, order and create the bezel (will be using 1/4" acrylic cell cast), create the marquee, and configure the software.  I also ordered some usb NES, SNES, and N64 controllers for my nintendo emulators.  Let me know if you have questions/requests for close-ups.

 

[a1pharm]

I wanted illuminated sticks, but I didn't want to buy them.  So I came up with a method to have an illuminated effect.

-First, I purchased colored, translucent ball tops, to match the player's color (red or blue)
-Then I purchased some naked led's w/ resistors from groovygamegear.  I used 2 LEDs per stick
-After wiring the LED to the resistor, I sandwiched the light between the plastic housing, and the mounting plate, with the bulb exposed right next to the stick (but the stick can't hit it)

The sticks came with black dustwashers, which block the light, and I couldn't find clear/translucent dustwashers, I was stuck.

So I used some of the excess plexi I used for the marquee, and used a hole saw to cut out some discs.  It took 6 attempts to do it right, but I had a lot of plexi leftover.  I then had to widen the stick hole w/ a 3/8" bit.  I flame polished the edge of the discs, and used a palm sander to rough up the underside of each disc.

Now the light travels up and hits the ball top, while being properly diffused by the roughed plexi washers.  I'll add some pics soon.

 

Oh, and the LEDs can handle 5v - 12v.  I'm using 12v on them, and they match the buttons beautifully.

EDIT: pics added

[a1pharm]

I completed the marquee lighting recently.  As you can see, I did not use fluorescent/cathode lighting.  Instead, I used high output white LED 12v lighting.  I purchased a 5 meter roll of the stuff from a Chinese company (it's not made in the USA).  The type I bought is able to be cut.  It also has a 3M sticky backside, so applying it is as easy as peel and stick.

I made 5 rows with the stuff, and still had a lot left over.  It cost me $16 (including shipping).  It is way brighter, more white, more energy efficient, and cooler operating temperature than any other light source.

As you can see, I applied it to peg board.  I did this for two reasons:

1. The holes allow for adequate ventilation
2. I needed a VERY thin option, given that my speakers were very close to the front.

When this light is turned on, it is somewhat blinding.  I'll deal with that later, I guess 

More updates coming a little later today...

[a1pharm]

This post shows how my keyboard tray operates.

I did not like the idea of a keyboard drawer, and did not want to make it obvious that a tray/drawer system is under the CP.  To do this, i made a door that opens downward.  Behind it is the tray my keyboard rests on.  The tray slides out (like a drawer) but does not have sides. 

Some cab purists may argue I don't need a keyboard, but this cab is also a jukebox, media center, PC gaming "console," workstation (in a pinch), etc.

One problem with using the keyboard: it was hard to see the keys (its not backlit).  I had lots of extra LED strip light left, so I made a keyboard tray light.  When it's turned on and the room is dark, it looks awesome (will take some HDR pics when the project is done).

[a1pharm]

Here's the keyboard tray lights off, then on

 

[Richie_jones]

Great pics mate love the tray..

Have you had the marquee lights on yet thats a lot of leds there!!!

[a1pharm]

Yep, I've had the marquee on (pic  Img_6711.jpg has them on).  They are very bright.  I have 5 rows of LEDs.  If I need to make it dimmer, I may remove 2 of the rows.  I'll make that decision when I get the marquee art installed.

Cheers!
 

[Richie_jones]

Are you going for sideart?
Whats your pc specs?

[a1pharm]

I won't do CP art (the focus is in its simplicity).  As for side art: I'm undecided.  The laminate sides are pretty nice all by themselves.  If I do decide to do side art, it will likely take me months in order to get everything just the way I want.  So for now, the only art I'll be making is for the marquee.

side note: plexi bevel rail is welded, just have to mount it, paint the bezel, and I'm done (except for art).  More pics to follow soon.

[a1pharm]

Here are the computer specs:
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 AM3 3.4Ghz
RAM: 4 gb DDR 1333
HDD: 2 x 250 gb running in a striped raid configuration (for 500 gb total)
Video: PowerColor AX6950 2GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16

It can run BF3 and Borderlands 2 @ 1080p, > 60fps with all settings maxxed.  It also handles Bubble Bobble. 

[Richie_jones]

Wow bubble bobble maxed out...lol.

Nice specs

[a1pharm]

What do you think of the Marquee art?  I wanted something simple, not too game-ish, not too distracting, and completely original.

What do you think?

[Drnick]

The words blend into the background, try giving them a border or bring them forward somehow to make them pop.

[a1pharm]

UPDATE:

My artwork is completed and installed.  All of my emulators and roms are functioning properly.  I will be putting the finishing touches on my FE this evening, pics/vids to follow soon.  Project almost to the 99.99% complete mark!

Thanks for all your help, BYOACers, couldn't have done it without you!

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

UPDATE:

My artwork is completed and installed.  All of my emulators and roms are functioning properly.  I will be putting the finishing touches on my FE this evening, pics/vids to follow soon.  Project almost to the 99.99% complete mark!

Thanks for all your help, BYOACers, couldn't have done it without you!

 

Really like the look of this cab so fresh. And that wiring job  Very Very nice..

[a1pharm]

Here are some pics, as promised.  Let me know if you want close-ups/other angles/ other shots.

Enjoy!

[a1pharm]

Here are some better quality HDR shots (used a 50mm lens at F 2.8, created HDR from 3 shot composites).

[a1pharm]

Here's some info on the software configuration:

I am using Hyperspin 1.0, and downloaded art from the Hyperspin ftp.  I also incorporated 480p video clips from EMUmovies' ftp.  I have MAME, Gameboy, NES, SNES, and N64 fully configured (with custom wheel art for each system's titles), along with custom themes for all MAME games.  Virtual boy is not fully configured in hyperspin yet.  I just received some red/blue 3D glasses in the mail yesterday, in order to take full advantage of the 3D aspect of Virtualboy (I am using vbjin emulator).

This setup also has a very, very beefy computer as its core, and it runs BF3, Borderlands 2, and pretty much anything else I can throw at it with settings maxxed and a resolution of 1080.  Tiger Woods PGA Tour 08 plays very nicely with the trackball (much more visually appealing than the 2D Golden Tee series).

Let me know what questions you have.

Cheers!
 

[a1pharm]

I want to thank Randy, over at www.GroovyGameGear.com for his superb service.  Some of the LEDs on my white buttons failed.  Randy graciously shipped me replacement LEDs for the white buttons, and a few for my red and blue buttons (just in case).

I am very impressed with this company, and will try to use them exclusively in the future (I have a bartop on the drawing board already).

Again, thank you Randy and GGG. 

-a1pharm

[GIZMOGAMES]

I was actually going to suggest swapping the red and blue round so it would be blue on red and red on blue adding the illusion of the depth you were looking for and an added twist also use some smoked plexi to also defuse the glare on the marquee just thoughts tho looks awsome none the less

[a1pharm]

also use some smoked plexi to also defuse the glare on the marquee just thoughts tho looks awsome none the less

I used www.zazzle.com to print the marquee, and they used (relatively) thick paper.  This would have been problematic, if I were not using uber-bright LEDs.  Fortunately, the brightness is perfectly balanced with the thick stock.  Thus, I didn't need to remove any LED strips, or mess around with tinting plexi.   

I'm in the late planning stages for a special bartop project (also will be a scratch build, minimalist yet traditional design).  Stay tuned

 

[sabreerbasAlpha]

The reason I respect your opinions you have given me on my build, is your ability to build things like this. That control panel wiring job is beautiful, The cab looks super fresh. Love it just love it...

[a1pharm]

From Chris John Hunter:

Hi A1Pharm


Very impressed with your slim but wide upright cab. Just the ticket. Black and Red very classy design.
So you can use a really good size monitor and keep the slim styling look.

I am looking to put together something similar. Do you have some plans I could share?

Would much appreciate it.

Kind regards
Chris John Hunter

Chris,

I made the plans myself from scratch.  The most important first step was creating the side panel design.  I included my blueprint in my build (it is a scan of what I drew to scale on graph paper).  It has all measurements and angles needed to transfer the design to MDF.  The lower panel angles are not specified, but I did mark their beginning and ending points on the paper, so if you draw those points as "dots" on the MDF, and then connect them, you will get the same angle I did.

All front and rear panels are the same width, which is dependent on how wide your monitor/TV is, and how much clearance you want on either side of the monitor/TV (I kept my clearance at 1/4" on either side, I could have gone with 1/8" or even flush, but I wasn't as confident in my woodworking skills as I am now).

I think the only measurements I didn't include were the speaker hole measurements, the CP measurements, and the gap measurement (for how much the side panels extend beyond the front/rear panels).  I can check these by tomorrow morning at the earliest if you need them that soon.

Let me know what questions you have, but post them on my build page, that way others can learn from the conversation.

Cheers!
 

[BadMouth]

Nice clean build. 

Now that it's playable, what do you think of being that close to the 32" screen while playing?
Would you do it the same way if starting over?

[a1pharm]

The 32" is INCREDIBLE, and would definitely do it over again in a heartbeat!  (I have to play it standing up, or on a very high stool)

I am also emulating scanlines for MAME, and the other emulators (except for virtual boy - no scanlines).

I am especially a fan of the keyboard tray layout.  It's more of a telescoping desk than a drawer, and very ergonomic to use.

My only regret is not incorporating sticks that are easier to switch from 8way to 4way (this will probably be an upgrade I make by the end of the year).

I hope more people use LEDs for their marquee lights; they are super cheap, easy to use, and have a cooler operating temp than all other options.

[micahman33]

Cab looks great man...really nice work. I like how clean and simple it is. What are you using for Marquee rails? I just finally got my vinyl printed and my plexi, but I need to find something to hold the marquee plexi in place. Thanks

[eds1275]

Nice clean build. 

Now that it's playable, what do you think of being that close to the 32" screen while playing?
Would you do it the same way if starting over?

I also have a 32" in my spinal tap cab. It is pretty awesome, and I was really worried about being too close to it. Perhaps it would be too close but most of the games are not widescreen so get put in the middle with black bars down the sides. I'm not sure what that brings the screen size down to, but it feels "right," like it's close to what I'm used to (mortal kombat, killer instinct, street fighter)

[DickTurpin]

Crikey DM!

I have a LED TV I would like to use its 32inch as well. It has a mode on the television to switch to 4:3 so I know it can do that mode.


How does the 32inch screen work with 4:3 and Vertical games?
Looks awesome BTW.

[a1pharm]

Crikey DM!

I have a LED TV I would like to use its 32inch as well. It has a mode on the television to switch to 4:3 so I know it can do that mode.


How does the 32inch screen work with 4:3 and Vertical games?
Looks awesome BTW.

Even though this screen is nearly always cropped w/ MAME and other emulated games, it its still larger than the stock monitors used in nearly all traditional arcade games.  An LED TV would be best, because they have insane contrast ratios (the black bars on the side of the active screen will be TRULY black).

As far as Marquee rails:
I used aluminum L edging you can find in any hardware store.  I cut them to length, primed with metal spray primer, and sprayed them matte black.  The bottom rail was attached with gorilla glue, and the top rail was installed with screws (in the same fashion as Martijin's build).  They work great, also cheap.

Cheers!
 

[Felsir]

An LED TV would be best, because they have insane contrast ratios (the black bars on the side of the active screen will be TRULY black).

Also LED TVs have a wide viewing angle and produce very little heat. I have a 32" LED (Samsung UE32EH5000) in my cocktail table and I'm very happy with it.

[nitz]

Nice build.

I'm curious, does it seem nice and stable? I've been toying with doing something with a 32" LCD in a slim cab, but worry a bit about it tipping. I was thinking of going something along the lines of a 23 or 24 inch deep base, but going by your sketch in reply #7, it looks like you went with just 17 inches

So if that's stable, I guess I'm worrying for nothing then.

[a1pharm]

Nice build.

I'm curious, does it seem nice and stable? I've been toying with doing something with a 32" LCD in a slim cab, but worry a bit about it tipping. I was thinking of going something along the lines of a 23 or 24 inch deep base, but going by your sketch in reply #7, it looks like you went with just 17 inches

So if that's stable, I guess I'm worrying for nothing then.

This thing is rock solid!  No tipping, no give.  If you notice from the design, nearly all of the weight is centered at the center of the cab.  In addition, most of the weight is below the CP level, which makes the center of gravity low (this makes tipping nearly impossible with very heavy use).

Also, my CP overhang is just enough to provide a comfortable palm rest.  If you make a slim cab, make sure you don't put a huge frankenpanel on it, otherwise, if you have significant overhang (much more than mine), it may be able to tip.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Cheers!
 

[nitz]

Thanks for the response.

That makes me feel better about trying to do a slim cab. While you definitely have to take care designing and building something like this, I think I overestimate the chances of tipping because I'm paranoid about someone getting hurt.

[lcmgadgets]

Finally checked this 1 out--that is 1 nice, clean, classic build. & in 6 months! Congrats! 

[Hockeyboy]

A couple of quick questions for you on this build:

1) What keyboard emulator/controller did you go with? I can't tell from the angle in the underside CP pics.

2) Your joysticks are bottom-mounted, right? Are your shafts long enough (yeah, I know, that's what SHE said!) with mounting them on the bottom of 3/4" material?

Build looks great, btw!! Nice job.

[a1pharm]

A couple of quick questions for you on this build:

1) What keyboard emulator/controller did you go with? I can't tell from the angle in the underside CP pics.

2) Your joysticks are bottom-mounted, right? Are your shafts long enough (yeah, I know, that's what SHE said!) with mounting them on the bottom of 3/4" material?

Build looks great, btw!! Nice job.

1) Keywiz by www.groovygamegear.com (the PS2 port version)

2) Yes, they are bottom mounted.  I bought Zippy joysticks from groovygamegear.com, and chose the "Long Shaft" option (again, that's what she said)

Let me know if you have other questions,

Cheers!
 

[a1pharm]

Finally checked this 1 out--that is 1 nice, clean, classic build. & in 6 months! Congrats! 

Thanks!  The construction is complete, and the marquee will do for now.  I hope to make some artwork (from scratch) this winter for the sides and CP, and an updated marquee.

[CaptainMarvel]

I am very impressed with this router, I don't know if I could build this thing without it!

Out of curiosity, did you get that router from Harbor Freight

[a1pharm]

I am very impressed with this router, I don't know if I could build this thing without it!

Out of curiosity, did you get that router from Harbor Freight

I got it from Menards, which is like a Home Depot, but with better prices.  I think I saw the same one on harbor freight a few months ago, as it seems that once manufacturer makes it, and third parties market it.  It's a good router for light work, but for making every cut in a full sized cab, it is ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---.  I would recommend trying something with more that 2hp if you are giving it heavy use (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD is a great one that I'll be upgrading to sometime this winter).  If you are buying a router for the first time, and think you'll only use it for one build, the one that I bought should suffice, just make sure you utilize it as much as possible when you can still return it, as it WILL die on you eventually.

Cheers!
 

[a1pharm]

So I have had a request to post the dimensions of my control panel.  The image below is not drawn to scale, but measurements are accurate +/- < 0.25"

[juice84]

Awesome build... Just curious how you made your screen bezel?

[a1pharm]

The bezel is 1/4" plexi.  I mounted the TV, then mounted the plexi.  Then I used blue painter's tape to "trace" the TV's screen area.  Then I flipped the plexi over, and "traced" the screen space with more tape.  Then I taped newspaper to the newly outlined TV screen area.  Then applied 3 coats of black spray paint to the exposed plexi (the part that will be "inside" the cab).  Then I remounted the newly painted bezel.  Voila.

 

[juice84]

Oh I see, couldn't tell if it was regular plexi or tinted.   What holds it in place?  Or does it just rest against the frame of TV and control panel? 

[a1pharm]

I used JB Weld (kind of like epoxy) to stick L brackets to an aluminum "U" rail.  This holds the plexi at the bottom.  To keep it from tipping out: I then used velcro on the backside of the plexi near the top, and velcro'd the plexi to mounted L brackets (with velcro on the brackets).

[phoenixtom]

Looks like a great build. Thanks for all the extra info.

I'm gonna use this as reference when i'm going to start my own build!

 

[slownumb]

Hi,

What`s the viewing angle on the monitor?

I`m trying to start a project similar to yours and i am having doubts about the view angle.

Thank you in advance.

[a1pharm]

Hi,

What`s the viewing angle on the monitor?

I`m trying to start a project similar to yours and i am having doubts about the view angle.

Thank you in advance.

15 degrees

[HP_Wilson]

Hello, great build!

Can you provide some details around how you mounted the television? You mentioned it was a homemade mount, and I'm interested in how you did it.

Thanks!

[a1pharm]

Hello, great build!

Can you provide some details around how you mounted the television? You mentioned it was a homemade mount, and I'm interested in how you did it.

Thanks!

I installed batons at a 15deg angle on both side panels' interior.  Then I used a scrap piece of MDF that spanned the distance between the panels.  I centered a VESA series of holes on the center of the board.  Then I attached the board to my TV and then the TV/board to the batons.

[MaidenFan666]

Hello a1pharm,

I am currently reproducing your cabinet as I was looking for a good widescreen cabinet to build. I was curious if you can provide photos of the rear of your cabinet. Would you mind either posting them here or in a pm to me. Hope to hear from you soon. Here are a couple of pics of my cabinet:

http://imgur.com/a/Whcqh

[a1pharm]

Hello a1pharm,

I am currently reproducing your cabinet as I was looking for a good widescreen cabinet to build. I was curious if you can provide photos of the rear of your cabinet. Would you mind either posting them here or in a pm to me. Hope to hear from you soon. Here are a couple of pics of my cabinet:

http://imgur.com/a/Whcqh

Howdy MaidenFan666!

I'm flattered you are making a cab like mine - you're going to love it!  One thing I wish I did is drill holes on the side for pinball flipper buttons (it's on my long todo list right now...).

Below is a pic of the back of my cab - it's a little dusty.  There are 4 items in the lower right corner: power button, coax for antenna TV (it has a tuner),  optical audio out port (to attach to a 5.1 channel surround system), and the power port.

You can kind of see at the very top a vent with the same material as the speakers and the computer vent (also on the back side - it's the large mesh square on the bottom rear panel).  Both were made in the same way as the speaker grills, but I didn't paint the wood black (I figured no one would ever see the back, guess I was wrong!).

Let me know if you have other questions.  I usually check back on the forums once ever 2-4 weeks.

Congrats, your cab is looking awesome!

Cheers!
 

[MaidenFan666]

Awesome. Thank you very much. That helps alot. I thought about starting my own thread, but since its a near clone of yours, perhaps I can post photos of what I did differently in this thread.

[a1pharm]

Awesome. Thank you very much. That helps alot. I thought about starting my own thread, but since its a near clone of yours, perhaps I can post photos of what I did differently in this thread.

Go right ahead!  If you want to share words of wisdom, others would probably find them useful (I've had some PM's that I didn't repost here that others probably would have benefited from...).

Congrats on a great cab!