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Idea for a Multi Williams Plus panel.

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1500points:

non-descript.  says VM-5 5A, 125/250VAC  with a backwards UR

jimmer:


--- Quote from: 1500points on February 07, 2013, 03:36:27 pm ---non-descript.  says VM-5 5A, 125/250VAC  with a backwards UR

--- End quote ---

I don't suppose you've got the capability to measure the hysteresis to 0.3mm accuracy  :lol   Then we could determine if its the model with 1.1mm or 1.6mm 
http://www.zippy.com.tw/Con_product_detail.asp?pcs_name=Micro%20Switches&pcs_type=1&ps_rfnbr=313&ps_code=VM%20Series&ps_name=VM%20Series&pcs_rfnbr=7&lv_rfnbr=1#Operating%20Characteristics

1500points:

ha, i may be a mad scientist but have no oscilloscope. you could mail me one, though. :)

jimmer:

Nevermind, I've taken the lid off mine, and together with 'inspiration' from Randy's versa-switch I can see how to adjust my hysteresis down to almost nothing.

This will make the zippy even better for Defender, and I'll be ready for tweaking when I start on Robotron.

RandyT:


--- Quote from: 1500points on February 07, 2013, 03:28:00 pm ---Ah ha! good timing, i JUST got a package in the mail from paradise arcade. the switch says zippy and it was very easy to open with a knife, unlike the old blue/black ones i have.

How do I alter it to remove the click.
All 3 types I have laying around:

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I know you probably won't want to hear this, but the build of that particular switch is not very conducive to this type of modification.   It can be done, but there are easier ones to do it with.  But I'll give you the basics (better get my perfesser hat on..)

The "click" caused by snap switches is the sound it makes when the two contacts are slammed together under spring tension.  The way they operate, due to the position of the spring relative to the center of the arc, is they build tension/resistance all the way up to the apex of the curve.  Once it passes the apex, the reduction in spring tension allows the forces on the actuator to cause the contact point to accelerate rapidly down the other side.  However, since there is still enough tension on the spring to bring it back past the apex, it will return when pressure is removed from the actuator.  This behavior is responsible for the "bump" you feel when pushing the button, and that "fall through" and required cycling distance of the switch contributes to impeded rapid cycling.

The stronger the spring, the more pronounced this condition becomes.

So reducing click requires doing one, or both, of the following;  Reducing the distance between the contact points and/or reducing the spring tension, both of which will limit the momentum it can achieve before the points meet.  Each micro will need a specific way of achieving this, some much simpler than others.

But I'm glad you posted that photo, as it also shows what a difference there can be even in the way leaf switches are offered.  The original in the center looks quite a bit less stiff than than the adapter leaf you show there.  Would I be correct in that assessment?


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