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Idea for a Multi Williams Plus panel.
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jimmer:

--- Quote from: RandyT on February 05, 2013, 05:20:24 pm ---It's also important that the encoder can keep up with it.  If not, you will never be able to go faster than the encoder is capable of discerning and pushing out to the system.

--- End quote ---
I'm sure the minimusAVR is capable. If I press 6 buttons at a time I can get down to 20ms  ;D


--- Quote ---Make sure you tweak the switch so that you can barely see light through the contacts, and make sure the top leaf is in contact with the plunger leg.  This puts the actuation right the top, so you won't be looking for it buried in the throw of the button.  Not having to press it as far also cuts down on the time required.  This is very beneficial with a game like Joust, where it is sometimes necessary to flap very quickly.

--- End quote ---

I left it the way it went together, which was about 1mm of travel. Seeing as this is halfway through the total travel it seemed right to me.

Maybe I got the wrong impression, but I imagined 'floating the contact' as moving up and down making contact without hitting either of the end stops.

I'll try it with a smaller gap, but I can't see cutting 1mm to 0.2mm will make a lot of difference.


I'm also wondering if with a gap that small, whether play in the button or some bounce or something is given you more fires than actual presses?   Did you actually do 6 up/down presses to get your 6 presses?

eg I can get 8 presses average 30ms by running 2 fingers sideways across the button, but thats not really what I'm after.






RandyT:

--- Quote from: jimmer on February 06, 2013, 05:46:59 am ---I'm also wondering if with a gap that small, whether play in the button or some bounce or something is given you more fires than actual presses?   Did you actually do 6 up/down presses to get your 6 presses?

eg I can get 8 presses average 30ms by running 2 fingers sideways across the button, but thats not really what I'm after.

--- End quote ---

Yes, one press = one action, but that's not what I did.  I could have, however, but probably not at the same speed.

Well, that's the beauty of a leaf switch.  You can adjust it any way that's right for you.
jimmer:
So here is some final pics (for now).

I straightened up the 4way, and ground 2mm from the zippy steel plate (because I used 13mm mdf the sanwa only pokes through 1mm).  Final position of the reverse is 44mm horizontal 22mm vertical compared to Original Defender which I believe is 44mm horizontal 35mm vertical.

This was supposed to be a gash mock-up but there is almost nothing I want to change so far. I'd close the gap between left/right buttons buts it's hardly a chasm  :lol

The 2 floating buttons are in case of 2 player game that needs joystick and 2 buttons, or I might use them for coin and start.



1500points:
one tip on the 4 way zippyy actuator.
i found that clover leaf annoying, used the squarish 8 way template, rotated it into a diamond shape and drilled out the 2 tabs for the mounting bolts.  makes a nice diamond like a wico 4 way base, much better control.
RandyT:

--- Quote from: 1500points on February 06, 2013, 11:06:17 am ---one tip on the 4 way zippyy actuator.
i found that clover leaf annoying, used the squarish 8 way template, rotated it into a diamond shape and drilled out the 2 tabs for the mounting bolts.  makes a nice diamond like a wico 4 way base, much better control.

--- End quote ---

I saw at one time PBJ melted away the "nubs" with a soldering iron.  The same could be done pretty easily by trimming with a hobby knife, if they bother you.  But they do serve a purpose to prevent diagonals, which may or may not be an issue.
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