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Idea for a Multi Williams Plus panel.

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BadMouth:

I got the idea in my head now of trying to make a button that is less than 3/4" deep so the reverse button can be mounted halfway overtop the joystick mounting plate.

One way would be to shorten a button by cutting a section out of the center, only keep one leg on the plunger, and have the switch flipped around so only a small part is actually under the button.  (think I might have to do something in MS paint while at work)

I'd consider it blasphemy, but a seimitsu snap-in button could work. The main body is under 3/4" and the portion from the switch body to the edge could be over top of the joystick plate.
http://www.arcadeshop.de/images/specs/arcade-pb-ps14k-data.gif


EDIT: attached shabby MS paint rendition of Happ button hack.  The switch would be held in place by a separate mounting tab.

jimmer:


--- Quote from: RandyT on February 05, 2013, 01:16:27 pm ---I expect it will.  For Defender and Joust, a real leaf switch, adjusted to a "hair trigger" will give you much better control with those games.  This is especially true for Defender, where you need to lay down a wall of fire.  The only reasonable way to do this is to hold the button down to the point where it just fires, and "vibrate" it.  Try it and you'll see what I am talking about ;).

--- End quote ---

If you said track&field or joust level 60 I wouldn't have the experience to comment. But I wouldn't class Defender as particlularly rapid fire (I don't need to tense/vibrate my hand) and all 3 buttons are fully capable of getting off 4 shots on the screen.  This is where the Defender pros join in say they get a 4shot burst of in half a screen  :notworthy:

This is my speedtester http://www.codeskulptor.org/#user8-S7RcwY5zDF-7.py  I do about 100ms-120ms on all buttons.



jimmer:


--- Quote from: RandyT on February 05, 2013, 01:16:27 pm ---Take the bottom plate off the Zippyy stick and adjust the levers on the switches.  They can be tweaked such that even a small movement of the stick actuates the switch.  I just did this recently for someone who ordered one for two-way operation, and it works very well.

--- End quote ---

I'm thinking about that at the moment.
Even started a thread on it http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130196.0.html



jimmer:


--- Quote from: BadMouth on February 05, 2013, 01:28:58 pm ---I'd consider it blasphemy, but a seimitsu snap-in button could work. The main body is under 3/4" and the portion from the switch body to the edge could be over top of the joystick plate.

--- End quote ---

Not sure what's blashemous about seimitsu, but I can't think of a better button than the sanwa convex that I'm using for reverse.

I put it right next to my zippy and I don't feel the need to move it any further left. But if I did, in a 19mm panel it would go another 6mm over. The TRICK is to carefully file the hole in MDF (maybe plywood too) so that the button screws in, no nut required ;D

RandyT:


--- Quote from: jimmer on February 05, 2013, 01:41:31 pm ---If you said track&field or joust level 60 I wouldn't have the experience to comment. But I wouldn't class Defender as particlularly rapid fire (I don't need to tense/vibrate my hand) and all 3 buttons are fully capable of getting off 4 shots on the screen.  This is where the Defender pros join in say they get a 4shot burst of in half a screen  :notworthy:

This is my speedtester http://www.codeskulptor.org/#user8-S7RcwY5zDF-7.py  I do about 100ms-120ms on all buttons.

--- End quote ---

Perhaps, but you better be able to put those in a tight group, and do it often.  Everyone has a different style of play, but I've always found that laying down a wall of fire  in areas where no humans are being nabbed is important, and 4 shots in half the screen isn't going to cut it, unless you can do the same in the other half as well :).

Also, you should be able to get better than that with the timing, on a properly tuned leaf and a little practice.


--- Quote from: jimmer on February 05, 2013, 01:43:59 pm ---I'm thinking about that at the moment.
Even started a thread on it http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130196.0.html

--- End quote ---

You are overthinking it.  You don't need diagonals, so they are out of the equation.  Just hold the switch in your hand and depress the lever.  Now hold the lever tightly against the switch body, right at the front corner, and flex the blade upward until it's about parallel.  Install it in the joystick and test it.  If it needs a little more, do the same thing until it's the way you want it.  Then remember how far you flexed it, and do the same with the other three.

What you are basically doing is "pre-loading" the switch so that the blade is in contact with the actuator, and sits just above the actuation point of the switch.

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