Afcade (working title)

[EssexMame]

I finally think I'm ready to stop dreaming and start building! I've ALWAYS had a love of arcade, computer and console games. I (like us all?) was always blown away by the sights and sounds of the (too few) visits to the seaside arcades (and later, for a short time, one in my home town - oh the joy). From then on (again, I expect like us all).

I wanted an arcade machine in my bedroom! Space Invaders, Pac Man, Out Run, Galaga, R-Type... and many more. There's the problem (aside from the massive cost when I only had a paper round) - what one? Where would it actually fit? What when you tired of the one you'd bought? I needed one machine with many games. Playstation's helped but I still dreamed of my own cabinet. I expect I always would.

Now.. I have some space. I came across Mame and onto this website and many others - I'd never expected to find so many with the same interest but, then, of course I would - the arcades were heaven and we all wanted one. There's the problem - so many awesome designs, so much to learn and read, so many games to distract me.... Where would I start..

And then... the Project Arcade 2 (second edition) by the man they call Saint (perhaps it should be God) for Christmas. It helped to structure all I'd been reading, in easy logical steps, and gave me some confidence I could build it (with no DiY skill at all) and here I go... I hope!!

I've taken out some of my grander ideas for phase 2 (or 17) such as modular control panels, driving controls (though Out Run alone will tempt me to add them someday).

I'll use an old PC and LCD 19" (as I have them), a 2 Mag Stik Plus setup (4/8 way switchable from the top) and 6 buttons on each. A trackball and/or spinner in the centre (I know not yet which) with a MiniPac (or is iPac2/OptiPac the better choice?)

So, I start with the control panel. I can then setup all the PC and test my design that way before moving on with confidence (or not) to the cabinet.

I LOVE Kneivels Evolution cabinet - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=70519.0 -  Lovely! A smaller thinner form (LCD) cabinet, with all I need for this phase. It looks great, I'm hoping I can make something similar (though not as good looking I'm sure with my at best untested woodworking skills). Still, there's always phase 2 with modular controls and rotating screen or the sit down driving cabinet I'm already dreaming of :-)

So, wish me luck, and any comments or advice will ALWAYS be appreciated....

[Jumpman64]

Good luck!

[Felsir]

Good luck!

A for the spinner/trackball controls- if you have space and budget try fitting both. If you have fond memories of real spinner games (Tempest, Arkanoid) a spinner is a great thing to have. Much debated: a trackball can function as a spinner, a spinner cannot emulate a trackball. If you do a forum search on spinner vs trackball you will find many arguments for both. So space on the CP , budget and what games you really want to play may help you decide.

[EssexMame]

Thanks Jumpman & Felsir!

I intend to fit a trackball and spinner (of course dependant on space but should be fine - spinner above the trackball). I remember (and played Arkanoid). Never Tempest oddly, though I think I'll have a go as everyone mentions it :-) Trackball for games like golden tee for sure, though I remember Combat School on that too (if memory serves).

For the control panel, I've done a cardboard template but any ideas on the normal size? The LUSid plan overlaps and ideally I'd like to be within the width of the cabinet (or is that too little?)

I'm planning on using the LUSiD cabinet plans, but slimming them down as I'll be using an LCD and don't need all the depth (I'll keep some so its stable - though how to determine that I don't yet know!)

Does anyone know where is the best place for controls to the UK? I've started an order on Gremlin Solutions, but it soon adds up with VAT and postage and so on. I expect Ultimarc (and other US) will be more with import and customs/VAT also though.

Has anyone any idea of a steering wheel (full-size ish) that fits as a spinner top? It seems like something people would want.

[yotsuya]

Look on this page:

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268

[EssexMame]

Thanks Yotsuya. It's sort of what I'm looking for, but 7" doesn't seem very big (I'm not bragging!) for a steering wheel - I'm looking for something closer to full size I guess, like an Out Run cabinet. This may be a good second option though, so thanks!

[monkeychunkuk]

Good luck with tour build im about to start my second,whats your plans for art work?

[EssexMame]

On artwork, I've no idea yet. I'm no artist, so I expect to buy some off-the-shelf marquees and sideart as well as something on the control panel. Vague I know - not really an idea yet, will add it at the end and so much to do yet!

[Seith]

On artwork, I've no idea yet. I'm no artist, so I expect to buy some off-the-shelf marquees and sideart as well as something on the control panel. Vague I know - not really an idea yet, will add it at the end and so much to do yet!

You know, I too struggled for the longest time over how the artwork was going to look.  Like, i'm talking YEARS.  I didn't claim to have any more skill at design and art than the next guy did.

I figured those grade-school art books that preach "simple straight lines and circles" to start with couldn't be wrong, so I went with that, and after a few hours came up with something I was happy with.  And really, it is quite literally just some straight lines and curves.  I didn't go all "super-detailed 16 million color guy in a spacesuit shooting aliens with a 50's laser blaster" or anything, just something simple and with bright colors that pop out.

Some good resources for inspiration and ideas are of course the arcade art library (i don't have the link) but less-suggested yet just-as-helpful can be stencil sites.  I frequent http://www.reddit.com/r/stenciltemplates just to get an idea of how art can use negative space to kind of "draw lines using your head" in a way.  After all, a lot of the original cabs from back in the day were stencilled on the sides.

[Drnick]

Does anyone know where is the best place for controls to the UK? I've started an order on Gremlin Solutions, but it soon adds up with VAT and postage and so on. I expect Ultimarc (and other US) will be more with import and customs/VAT also though.

Ummm,  Ultimarc is a UK company    Just change the currency to GB Pounds.

I must be fairly local to you, Basildon myself. I got my joysticks etc from Ultracabs (also essex based).

[yotsuya]

So what is the meaning behind the working title?

[EssexMame]

Seith - that's really helpful, thanks! Straight lines and circles I may be able to cope with. I saw the "Wannercade" post today and that artwork is simple and effective. Something like that will do perfectly I think. I still think I'll build the cabinet, install the PC and get stuck playing games for a couple of years before I ever do the artwork though :-)

Yotsuya - the Afcade working title is "AFC" (Arsenal Football Club) and "(c)ade" which most projects seem to have as the suffix for an arcade cabinet :-) My colour scheme for joysticks buttons is red/white so the Arsenal part was where I started.

Drnick - I'm close - just down the road in the new city. thanks for pointing out Ultimarc is uk - I'd assumed USA as it defaulted to US Dollars (though I had seen the GBP option). I should've probably checked the shipping pages. More information on the Gremlin site so I guess I'll go with them as I'll be more certain I'm buying the right stuff/ sizes /cabling etc. Ultimarc doesn't even seem to tell me the button hole sizes for some of the buttons! Ultracabs looks good too - have you ordered stuff from them? Do they even have a shop/warehouse I can visit?

[EssexMame]

Seems to be www.arcadeartlibrary.com Seith and I love the stencil art - very Banksy style.. May incorporate a simple black/white side art like that. With the colour on the buttons and marquee.. I'm sure they'll be hundreds of options before I do anything though. I'd not even planned on looking yet, but your info and links has me intrigued (and also easier to research at work where the game-type sites (even ultracabs but not the main page ?!) are blocked ;-))

[Drnick]

I got my joysticks/buttons/xinmo from Ultracabs,  unfortunately they don't have somewhere to see that I know of.  Shipping was quick, quality was good for the price they cost.  I think if I do it again I may go with better sticks/buttons and use an Ipac which would mean ultimarc or Gremlin

[PL1]

More information on the Gremlin site so I guess I'll go with them as I'll be more certain I'm buying the right stuff/ sizes /cabling etc. Ultimarc doesn't even seem to tell me the button hole sizes for some of the buttons!

If there's anything from Ultimarc you aren't sure about, just ask here and someone will chime in with the info or a link.

For arcade-style buttons, assume the size is 1-1/8" unless otherwise specified.
(Sometimes it's easy for long-time sellers to forget that not everyone already knows stuff like this.)


Scott

[EssexMame]

I've ordered stuff from Gremlin in the end:

one mag stik plus
one mag stik (both red tops and taking a slight risk they are the same design (just different 4/8 way switching mechanisms))
6 red buttons
6 white buttons (each control will have a row of red and row of white - it 3+3 on each side)
1P start button
2P start button
mini-PAC

The control panel is designed and modelled in cardboard so I want to Its 26" wide, the P1 and P2 taking 8" each leaving 10" centrally for trackball and spiiner.

Its 26" wide (as my cabinet will be, plus width of side panels of course) as I want it integrated into the cabinet (with a view to a modular control panel later). I expect to hold it in place with dowling rods. Later, the 10" central section will be removable and a steering wheel etc could fit there instead. That's all phase 2, but wanted to get the design to allow it to happen

The 1P start will act as "shift" and esc/other control keys will be P1 4/5/6 keys to unclutter the control panel. The 1P and 2P start will be on a 6" high section under the monitor - i.e. vertical, facing the players. This may change though, so advice appreciated.

The cabinet itself is designed (of sorts) taking inspiration from "Lusid" and "Woody" - effectively combining the 2 to give a slimline LCD cabinet but with a little more depth so I can be sure it supports itself and also the 12" deep control panel I'm going with. 25" IIRC is the depth of the cabinet as a whole.

[EssexMame]

The controls should be with me next week! Gremlin were out of stock of the red top Mag Stik Plus, but expect it Monday, maybe Friday. Excited!!

I've got the control panel mapped out in cardboard too - ready to plug the buttons in.

Spent the weekend looking at Wood in Wickes and B&Q. Will probably buy from a yard, but wanted to get a visual idea on what I'm looking to get. Surprised by how think 18mm is, but advice on strength is good. I also got a 28mm drill bit to do the control panel.

Sorted people I can borrow circular saw/jigsaw/router and so on from.

Next up is clearing up the garage to make space to do it all!

[Drnick]

Make sure to use Breathing apparatus when cutting/routing the mdf, and definitely keep a shop vac, Henry, or oldschool Vax handy for sucking the dust up as its being created.

[EssexMame]

Gremlin have posted my order !!!! Is it normal to be this excited ?!?!

[EssexMame]

Grrrrrrrr. I got "we tried to deliver your parcel but you were out card" which was expected as I was at work all day.

Still annoying though as had I got the parcel I'd have had the evening, with the wife out, to try out the new joysticks and buttons on a cardboard mockup. It's quite scary how excited I am by all this.

At least I can collect it after work tonight and have something real outside of the emulators on the PC to move closer to arcade nirvana.

[Jumpman64]

Ah, man, I hate when that happens!   

[Yvan256]

Waiting for parts to arrive is always exciting, it's like Christmas!

[EssexMame]

Yes, the best Christmas EVER!

When they arrive but no one is in to take the parcel it's like getting a great Christmas present but then having to visit the grandparents for Christmas dinner and not getting to play with it until Boxing Day

[Drnick]

I got the same thing today, my T-molding and cutter etc. arrives from the States nobody in to accept delivery.  Then my joysticks and art arrive, once again no one in to accept delivery.  I did tell them all to try my neighbours, but hey what can you do.  I guess its trips to DHL and the post-office for me tomorrow.  PM me if you need to borrow a slot cutter, I will probably have about 20Ft of red Tmolding spare as well

[EssexMame]

I'll remember that - I was going red or chrome and I've no idea about slot cutters yet

[EssexMame]

My (hasty) mocked up control panel now the controls have arrived. Its 26" wide. 8" for each player, 10" in the centre for space for players (and trackball/spinner/possible modular steering wheel later). Its 13" deep (though could be 12" I expect).

I might make it 28" as the joysticks feel too close to the edge and I still want 10" centrally. The CP will be within the width of the cabinet, so my cabinet will therefore be 28" (+ 2 x 3/4" for the side panel thickness)

What do you think of the layout? red top/white bottom or red/white alternate?

Also, on the mag stik - how does it install? silver panel on top (and then covered) or silver panel underneath (and if so, how do you feed joystick/dust cover through - does the bat top come off to do this?

[Drnick]

I would go Red one side and White the other (Pretty much what I am doing except in red and black).

As for the stick there are many ways of skinning that particular cat   I mounted mine underneath by routing out a recess, inserting some threaded inserts (I still have a bunch as bought 50 of them) and then bolted them in from underneath. It makes the sticks a little shorter but that wasn't really an issue.  as for the handle yes that should come off (Probably held on with a C clip or something at the bottom). You should be able to find a diagram of how it goes together around here somewhere.

Found it - http://retroblast.arcadecontrols.com/reviews/joysticks/ultimarc_magstikplus_part1.html

Basically remove the nut from the bottom and the entire shaft pops out.  On a side note I Picked up the artwork from post office and Joystick/Buttons (One missing  I have contacted Andy already regarding this).

[EssexMame]

Thanks for that DrNick. I'd looked after your first comment and unscrewed it. The Mag Stik Plus was a little tricky to put back together but I got there in the end :-)

just need a free weekend now to setup a dummy panel. Something I can use but not necessarily the final version. I've some chipboard lying about, 18mm  thick, that I'll use for this.

Look forward to seeing your artwork all setup!

[EssexMame]

Another pretty non-productive weekend. I have laid out my plans on graph paper, and have even put one side panel into sketchup (hopefully now I'm starting to understand it I will be able to do the others fairly quickly!

The design is essentially Lusid, but with 6-8" taken off the depth. I've also extended the marquee area forward slightly, and I'm yet decided on having a sloping back at the top, or straight up to the top at 90 degrees.

Anyway, I'll post my sketchup as soon as I'm done.

[Drnick]

Nay mind lad Non productive weekends are the norm around these parts.  I am still waiting on the T-molding/Cutter to arrive. It was something else I had ordered that arrived the other day.  The printers can't do my Control panel as their printer has broken down.  So like you a non productive weekend all round. 

[EssexMame]

What is the link to your project page DrNick?

[Drnick]

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121269

[EssexMame]

I've spent some time today finalizing on graph paper (the first edition at least) the cabinet design. It's basically LUSID, but with a thinner look (towards Woody) and also an integrated control panel not a box.

I've even gone as far as making a quick cardboard model and I'm fairly pleased with the results.

Some progress on sketchup, but think it'll be a few more hours before I'm truly au fait with that software. I have most of the components drawn out, but snapping them together is proving frustrating.

Now off for a romantic meal - I'll need all the brownie points I can get for the time I'll be spending making this thing!

[EssexMame]

Not a lot done again this weekend. I've borrowed a circular saw, jigsaw, workbench and clamps from a friend so I'm ready to go when I get the time.

Sorted my Mame list in Romlister so that it only has joystick/trackball games. The driving/shooting games I want can come later when I've done that part (phase 2?).

Hoping to take a day off this week where I'll do my control panel with some chipboard I have. Only as an initial mockup/cut test but will probably get it working so I can use it/test it with Mame et al.

[Malenko]

AFKade is a funnier name.  Just because its an arcade machine, you dont have to put the word cade in there. Most people gripe about it, Ive only done it once ShoRyuKade and kinda on Mortal Kabinet.

[Nephasth]

6000th post Malenko!

[Malenko]

6000th post Malenko!

what a waste of it too , lol

This was #5,000:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115363.0

long time between milestones, I need to Chad it up some more.

[EssexMame]

Finally got some time on the cabinet this weekend. Well, for some practice woodworking and mock up control panel at least!

I had a sheet of old loft floor chipboard, 3/4" thick so I thought I'd run some cuts through that, to get used to the tools. It didn't go so bad either. One side sloped off slightly as I overreached (how do you cut a larger length without reaching, hold the tool from the side?). It wasn't too bad (it doesn't really show in the image), but comes in 1/2-3/4" so too much for the main thing. Still 3 out of 4 straight sides isn't bad for a first effort :-). I used a circular saw and workbench I borrowed from a mate (he'd sawn part of his workbench off so I wasn't too anxious about damaging the equipment - he'd done a decent job of that ;-)). Sawing was easier than I expected and I'm now more confident I can actually do this.

The hole drilling went well, though it did 'pop' through at the bottom I was aware I need to use another sheet of wood underneath to stop this happening (I just didn't have any for this try and it's only a mockup so not too worried about that). It wouldn't show anyway and could be touched up with woodfiller in the real event.

So, this is (one side) of my control panel on chipboard. The centre will be trackball (not yet ordered) and possibly a spinner with steering wheel top (also not ordered/decided on yet). The right side will be more of the same (JS and 6 buttons). The P1/P2 will go on the underside monitor bezel, vertically facing the players. The joystick is screwed in underneath, but not recessed (I have no router and don't even know what bit does this yet) so the stick is slightly short but I'll recess in the real thing anyway.

Oh, I also sorted a monitor too - HP LP2065. It's 20"-1600x1200 and perfect for what I need now and in the future (tilt/swivel/rotate 90 degrees, VESA so I'm ready to go on any rotation I try in a later phase). I've also not got an annoying "out of range" error I was getting ad-hoc on the old monitors that resolved on a reboot (or 3) but appeared random - I'd certainly not changed settings but perhaps MALA/MAME was.

Next up? I'm going to put some sides on the CP with some wood I've cut and dowel rods (much as I'll attach to the cabinet itself, inside the side panels). How do you drill a hole to a certain depth with a drill? I'd want to go less than 3/4 inch so I don't pop out the top of the control panel but don't see how you do that so accurately, aside from guessing as you drill...

[Drnick]

First thing to do is to build a sawboard.  see the following thread. 

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html

That should help you keep a nice straight line on the longer cuts.  Just make sure that the sawboard is longer then whatever the longest piece you feel you would cut should be.

As for the drilling to a certain depth,  Your drill may be fitted with a stop guide, but that is normally for drilling a certain depth into a wall so probably no use for this.  In which case you want some drill collars

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22PC-TAPERED-DRILL-COUNTER-SINK-BIT-WOOD-PILOT-HOLE-STOP-COLLAR-ADJUSTABLE-/261173393071?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item3ccf25b6af
or
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRILL-DEPTH-COLLARS-Set-of-5-6-8-10-and-12mm-FREE-POST-/251222824034?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item3a7e0c1462

[EssexMame]

Hmmm. Not sure I follow the sawboard instructions too well. Is it 2 bits of wood screwed together - 1 the "guide" edge and the other underneath, sawn to the width of my saw so the saw then runs against the guide and the blade against the edge of the under piece as well as the wood you are cutting (along a pencil line)? So the sawboard sits ON TOP of the MDF for the cabinet, clamped and lined up to the line I am cutting?

The article talks of a saw guide/saw fence. Though it is fiddly, I'm sure for my first project this should do - just an edge to hold the saw against as I saw?

I figure I will also get 2 or 3 cuts when I buy the MDF - basically my long cuts - so I will have the height of the cabinet done already, it is only the width cuts, shaping and other smaller panels I will have to do.

Thanks for info on the collars, I've ordered a set of them. My drill might have something (it does have a plastic ruler guide which perhaps helps too?) but these seem easier/simpler.

[Drnick]

Hmmm. Not sure I follow the sawboard instructions too well. Is it 2 bits of wood screwed together - 1 the "guide" edge and the other underneath, sawn to the width of my saw so the saw then runs against the guide and the blade against the edge of the under piece as well as the wood you are cutting (along a pencil line)? So the sawboard sits ON TOP of the MDF for the cabinet, clamped and lined up to the line I am cutting?

Yep that sounds about right.

As for the guide/fence.  These are not as simple as the sawboard.  You have to lay the guide down so that the edge of the base rides alongside it.  That means it is normally something like 1.5 - 2.0" away from the actual location the blade will be cuttting. Whereas with the sawboard you line it up with the cut as the blade runs along the edge of the bottom piece of mdf and the top piece acts in the same way as the saw guide would work. 

Glad to help with the collars   Don't forget to PM me if you need a router/slot cutter.

[EssexMame]

This keeps getting more and more involved! I've just spent ages reading up on screw types and screw sizes. Who'd have thought there could be so many!

I suppose the question I have to answer is "what screw sizes and type do I need for 3/4" (18mm) MDF to attach to 18mm support beams. I'd say 32-26mm (almost to right upto through both), 32mm to prevent appearing on the other side! Countersunk heads, of phillips/crosshead or perhaps pozidriv/supadriv heads.

I've not got these screwdrivers (or electric) but do have a drill so could use that I'd think with the correct bits (which I may even have).

What screwsize though - Number 4/6/8/10/12/14 which in mm sizing is 3/3.5/4/5/5.5 and 6mm I believe. I always seem to use 6mm for everything at home, rightly or not but that's size #14 (?) and advice seems to be #6 or #8 - what do people think?

[Drnick]

For internal screws I just used these, If you use wood glue then these are really there to just hold everything in place whilst it sets.
I counter sunk them into the supports about 5mm or so.

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/screws/interior_wood_screws/-specificproducttype-pozidriv_drive_recess/Multi-Purpose-Single-Thread-Screw-AVF-854477-Pack-Of-25-W-3-5mm-x-L-25mm-9708261

[EssexMame]

Thanks Dr. Nick for your continued and excellent help! I hope my finished product makes you think it was worth it in some small way :-)

The screws look ideal, just being shown what to get makes this sooo much easier!

so, you glue along each support strut and screw also which a) holds it in place for the glue and b) gives it more stability whilst in use?

[Drnick]

The screws look ideal, just being shown what to get makes this sooo much easier!
so, you glue along each support strut and screw also which a) holds it in place for the glue and b) gives it more stability whilst in use?

Indeed that is 100% correct.  as the only supports in my bartop are at the very top and the very bottom I screwed 2 screws into the side panel and 2 into the base for each of the 4 supports. (Along with a liberal amount of woodglue) Once the woodglue has set you shouldn't really need the screws but they are not going to hurt being left in there

Thanks Dr. Nick for your continued and excellent help! I hope my finished product makes you think it was worth it in some small way :-)

I'm sure it will be  As long as you do the best job that you feel is possible, And that you fully enjoy using the machine when complete then my job will have been worth it.

Not that long ago I was in the same boat.  An idea of what I wanted but no real clue as to how.  A lot of nights reading through this forum and I was able to get a machine that I am happy with. You should be able to do the same.

[EssexMame]

Not a lot / any progress this weekend. I did spend a lot of time fiddling/tweaking mame. I've got it all on my Main PC (a better one than I'll use in my cabinet, with a graphics card I can experiment with scanlines.

I've had all sorts of speed issues (elsewhere in this forum) for getting Mame DOWN to 100%. I don't know what causes it, except throttle is on and a reboot seems to sort it. It goes too fast again when I edit the mame.ini (until I reboot).

The scanlines (hlsl look good though and I'll aim to have them on the old PC (will need a PCI graphics card, it doesn't have PCI-e and may not be possible so perhaps a version 2 cabinet using my main PC in future.)

I've also got all sorts of driving/gun (played a lot of Op Wolf over the weekend!) but will stick with the plan of a simple control panel first up. Then either a second cabinet (driving sit down?) or a modular control panel (which I'm allowing for in my design, at least in theory).

I think building wise I'm waiting for the Easter weekend and the decent weather to work outside. Here's hoping!

[EssexMame]

I've ordered 3 sheets of 2440x1220x18mm MDF! www.buildersmerchantsessex.co.uk (Chandlers)

Arrives tomorrow. £15.83 per sheet. Forgot to ask for initial cuts though :-( Oh well, means I'll get some practice sawing!

It means I'm committed to it now. Or I'll get gip from the wife for spending £50 on wood I never used!

[Drnick]

If I leave MDF around unused for more then about 10 minutes the wife will decide she wants new shelves or a storage box or something.  So never any fear of it being unused, just not necessarily used for original purpose

[EssexMame]

:-) I've never made anything, not even a shelf, since some miserable woodwork attempts at school (I may even post pics - I've recently received them since my Mum cleared her house out. I also got the "Easter Holiday Diary" I had to do for junior school homework. It basically describes the Acorn Electron games I spent the holiday playing! Croaker and Monsters being the main ones (the first games I got and therefore played to death - both are still good now in fact)

[Drnick]

Acorn Electron,  Wow that dates you.  Did you have Repton on the Electron?. I remember spending hours & hours on the BBC Micro playing it that's for sure.

[EssexMame]

Yeah, EVERYONE with an Electron had Repton :-) Never my personal fave though, that was probably Football Manager. Or Crazee Rider. Or the 2 mentioned above (which were my first 2 games - Dodgems was on the Intro cassette).

[EssexMame]

3 sheets of MDF arrived today.

I've also sorted Mame 0.148u2 with the hiscore.dat and done some valid gamelists through RomLister so today has been a good day!

[Drnick]

3 sheets of MDF arrived today.

I've also sorted Mame 0.148u2 with the hiscore.dat and done some valid gamelists through RomLister so today has been a good day!

Good to hear it. I really must get round to swapping out my faulty joystick base and getting the glass ordered.  I'll let you know how it works out but a piece of tempered smoked with bevelled edges is about £35 for 20" x 16" (Give or take a few mm). 

[EssexMame]

Snow and I will need to do any sawing etc outside so I've been inside on the computer setup again this weekend. I keep switching in/out games and emulators. I need to just settle on a list of, say, 50 with a few on other emulators. So:

50 Arcade games. Picked from those I remember and love from childhood, and some less so but I know others are a big fan:
1942
Afterburner (II)
Arkanoid
Asteroids
Bad Dudes v Dragon Ninja
Bomb Jack
Bust-A-Move (Puzzle Bobble)
Centipede
Combat School
Commando
Defender
Donkey Kong
Double Dragon
Enduro Racer
Frogger
Galaga
Galaxian
Gauntlet
Golden Axe
Golden Tee 2000
Hyper Sports
Jackal
Kick and Run
Marble Madness
Mikie
Mortal Kombat
Operation Wolf
Out Run
Pac-Man
Paperboy
Pengo
Pole Position
R-Type
Rainbow Islands
Rampage
Robocop
Rolling Thunder
Shao Lins Road
Shinobi
Sinistar
Space Invaders
Star Wars
Street Fighter
Strider
Super Hang On
Super Sprint
Tetris
Toobin'
Track & Field
Yie Ar Kung Fu

Now, some of these I won't have the controls for initially (After Burner, arkanoid, Centipede, Enduro Racer, Golden Tee, Marble Madness, Op Wolf, Out Run, Paperboy, Pole Position, Star Wars, Super Sprint). Some (spinner/trackball) are more easily resolved but that leaves the steering wheel/handlebar/gun games. Of these, Out run and Op Wolf (via mouse/trackball) play okay. Others like Pole Position just don't play well on a joystick at all.

So, I either replace these with some others from a want list, or I find a way to play them with a joystick/button (and probably now trackball and spinner) setup. The trackball worth it for Golden Tee alone, and I can then play Op Wolf with a crosshair (and perhaps even Arkanoid/driving games too?). What do people think?

I also have a Sega Megadrive and SNES emulator added, but will probably only have Mario/Sonic games as a start at least. I don't want to swap it with games some/many of which won't ever get played.  I can swap in/out and have "guest" games on occasion or by request. Kind of a "game of the month" selection and replace those unplayed etc.

My Mala front end is a simple red background, Xirod font title/game list and a marquee & screenshot (the marquee will be gameboxes for other emulators). I will add a white border/box around the screenshots and marquee and also the manufacturer/year and list count as well I think. I also like the digital clock on the gameroom layout!

Been playing on M2 and Supermodel emulators too, but that will have to wait for a more powerful PC. The one going into my cabinet doesn't have PCI-e and is only onboard graphics.

[Drnick]

That sound's like a solid plan    I like the idea of keeping the games list small. 

As for driving games you could either find a relatively cheap Steering wheel or you can go for a spinner with a wheel attachment.  That would cover games like arkanoid as well as 360 degree steering games.
For the trackball you could always just build a separate panel for a trackball games.  Not necessarily a complete control panel, more like a smallish box with trackball and buttons.  I presume you are running windows xp,  If you are and you only have SP1 installed then I may have a spare Microsoft Steering wheel you could have.  I believe that as a wheel it will work fine with whatever Service pack you have although if you have SP2 or higher then FFB will not work on it.  I am rebuilding my secondary PC at the moment for some testing.  I will let you know.   ( I have collected various wheels & Stuff over the years and really need to clear some junk out 

Starwars & Afterburner should work ok with an Analogue stick

[EssexMame]

I've considered the spinner steering wheel, but then I figure you'd need pedals or drive it one handed (as you need to hold down an accelerator button) so I'm not sure. Still, I'm going for a spinner/trackball so I guess I might as well get the 7" wheel top. I can always add pedals at a later stage, or just use the spinner one handed (without the wheel) where the driving games will work better than a joystick, I imagine...

Annoyingly, I had a wheel for PS2 but threw it out when we moved (it didn't work with PS3 if I recall correctly) - don't know why I did, I NEVER throw anything out!

I think I'll end up doing a swap in/out panel eventually - a steering wheel one and a flight stick one. Maybe even a sit-down driving/flight cabinet but that's a pipe dream at present (and v. tough to get the wife to agree I expect!).

[Drnick]

Now if you want to test it with a PS2 wheel I definitely have 2 of those you can have,  I nearly took them to the tip the other day.  (I sold my entire PS2 collection last year for a pittance but forgot the wheels) 

[EssexMame]

Not as much done as I'd have hoped in the long Easter weekend. This is due to it being freezing (outside or in the garage) and also the arrival in our house of an 8 week old puppy! Cute as she is, her enthusiasm doesn't go down too well with power tool use!

Still, I did get to the generic orange DIY store and pick up some 2'x4' 1/2" MDF to make a sawboard. With the use of the new saw horses (though good, it doesn't make clamping to them easy/possible at all, at least not with my spring crocodile type clamps) but I was able to saw it to 8" and 16" lengths (I resisted the urge for the store to do this cut as a) there was a queue and b) I thought it would be good practice!

The cut was pretty straight, and I was pleased with the result. I'm also pleased with my 20mm deep 6mm drill holes, using the drill stops I bought (thanks DrNick). I'm less pleased that I left my 6mmx20mm screws in the bottom of the trolley at the shop. I did find a countersink I didn't even know I had though and will use it today so I'm ready for whenever I get the screws. Question: How do I know how deep to countersink?

[EMDB]

Question: How do I know how deep to countersink?

Just enough to get the heads completely in. Better a bit too deep than not deep enough as you will cover the remaining hole with putty anyway.

[EssexMame]

Thanks - so you just kind of guess how much to countersink, based on the screw of course? Sort of one quick whizz and try for size? No guide/way to get it flush but simply a guesstimate.

[Drnick]

I'm sure there is a technical way of doing it, But I just go with the guesstimate.  You will soon know learn how much it takes to get the right depth.

[shrunkenmaster]

Thanks - so you just kind of guess how much to countersink, based on the screw of course? Sort of one quick whizz and try for size? No guide/way to get it flush but simply a guesstimate.

Your best friend is a bit of scrap wood. Every time I've encountered a woodworking first, I've practiced on a bit of scrap. "Save the crap for the scrap" is my motto!

[PL1]

Question: How do I know how deep to countersink?

If you are looking for a quick/repeatable method using a drill guide, try this:

Turn the flat-head screw around and trace around the head on a scrap piece of wood.

Drill through the center of the outline with a slightly larger hole than the threads of the screw.

Run the countersink down until the countersink reaches the outline.

Verify the depth of the countersink using the screw.

If it is the right depth, set the depth stop on the drill guide.

Now you can use the drill guide to countersink all the holes on your cab to the same depth.


Scott

[EssexMame]

Been playing around with artwork ideas today. I only have "paint" available but I've sort of pieced together what I'm aiming for in a VERY crude fashion.

Of course, it will be long/thin and scaled properly but these are the ideas. I'll need to determine a consistent bacground of course. The general idea is R-Type alien curled around ARCADE (in a Pac-man/r-type/other type font) with DG's across the top left at 45 degree angle and frogger hopping over the top.

Then appear Space Invader is throwing barrels at DK's Mario/jumpman with the Galaga beam across the top of "Arcade". Out Run car into the left of Arcade, much as it is Out Run on its own marquee. Of course, I have to have Pac-man there somewhere too.

It's not how it will look, at all, I need some time and software to sort that but the ideas at least are there.

[Drnick]

I had a quick look for R-Type Vector art and it's slim pickings from my google-fu.  You may want to see the following thread.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=101184.0

It may give you some ideas and if you can contact Kyoke  they vectorised the alien for their side art

The rest of it should be fairly east to get Frogger, Invaders, Mario, Pac/Blinky  they are all available from arcadeartlibrary.

Enjoying the Snow today?  I finally picked up the glass, Popped it in, less then 1mm gap all round oh yes it looks good 

Is this sort of what you were thinking of.  Was thinking of doing DG's in Neon

[EssexMame]

Wow, that's brilliant! As you can see I just cut/pasted what I did find into a very rough idea - simpler than writing it out! The DG's across the top in neon could work well.

The R-type pic I had was an artists impression via google. I like it a lot, but I will need to speak to the artist for permission to use it. I got lucky and found that alien's name (Dobkeratops) which helped in google. http://carpenocturne.deviantart.com/art/Dobkeratops-Doppleganger-158537508

It's a png though, not svg. I will need to get R-Type working in my mame pc though - it's very flicky on the 1600x1200 screen and I've not yet sussed why. Same ROM works fine on a (more powerful) PC at 1280x1024 so at present I'm confused.

The snow is annoying. I want to do some work on it this weekend, even if its jsut finish the saw board - but its too cold to be outside, even in the garage (where I have little room anyway). It has meant I've got the mame parts working though, but again my artwork lets me down so my mala layout is very simple!

How did you get so good at the art stuff? Do you use inkscape/gimp? I've no talent at all, can't even work out how to cut out the alien from r-type or the Out Run car without the background etc.

[Drnick]

Wow, that's brilliant! As you can see I just cut/pasted what I did find into a very rough idea - simpler than writing it out! The DG's across the top in neon could work well.

The R-type pic I had was an artists impression via google. I like it a lot, but I will need to speak to the artist for permission to use it. I got lucky and found that alien's name (Dobkeratops) which helped in google. http://carpenocturne.deviantart.com/art/Dobkeratops-Doppleganger-158537508

It's a png though, not svg. I will need to get R-Type working in my mame pc though - it's very flicky on the 1600x1200 screen and I've not yet sussed why. Same ROM works fine on a (more powerful) PC at 1280x1024 so at present I'm confused.

Oh and for what I do with artwork PNG is good,  very easy to set transparencies, but not so good in finding high res.

How did you get so good at the art stuff? Do you use inkscape/gimp? I've no talent at all, can't even work out how to cut out the alien from r-type or the Out Run car without the background etc.

Yeah, I did the same, but you definitely have a better quality pic of it there, I may just grab it and pop it in to see how it looks.  As for the Artwork I use Both.  You need Inkscape for the vector work and then Gimp for the rest.   Mostly I just read a lot, watched a few videos and the rest is history.  I still haven't got the finer things sorted out though,  If you look at Mario for example he has a transparency running through him even though I flattened the image and chose a background colour nowhere near the spectrum of colours included.  I will work on it a bit more though.  If you can't find the work in Vector then you need to find the largest image size you can that way you can keep the resolution high.  The hardest jobs are when you have to cut out an image from a larger image, I normally use intelligent scissors in gimp and then do some manual tidying afterwards.  I did have fun with the filters in Gimp yesterday to get the Invaders that ready brek glow. Without it they just sort of melded into the background.  I will do the Neon/Outrun Car tonight, make a few tweaks and pop another version up. when you know the size of your marquee if you want to use the art feel free.  Currently sized to something like 27" x 7"

As for PNG over SVG, Meh I like PNG as transparencies are east to set.

[EssexMame]

DrNick - I didn't expect you to do it for me!! This forum is amazing, wonder what it is about Arcade Cabinets that attracts the helpful kind. I've started on the videos/tutorials but you must have some artistic talent, an eye for it at least, which I don't have. Still, I'll try and see what I can do as well - it's not like I've got to draw the pictures so I should be able to cut/paste. The invaders do look great btw!

[EssexMame]

From my design, the marquee is 26" x 6-8" (I forget which here, I think it was 8?)

[EssexMame]

The marquee displayable area is 26" x 6.5", minus I guess any brackets etc that will hold it/the perspex in place?

I've been playing with some fonts for the "ARCADE" and "DG's" name also. What do you think?

[Drnick]

Argggggggghhhhhhh,  3rd time lucky.  Cant be asked to type again.  Is sized correctly with nothing at top or bottom for 1/2" to allow for retainers.  Let me know if you want it printed,  I have access to a plotter at work and can do it on standard HQ Paper so you can check it out properly. 

[EssexMame]

It's looking really good Nick :-) Tell me, how long has it all taken you ?! I've big printers here so I'll print it out and check it out full size. What is the Neon font you've used - I really like that.

Would you be offended if I made a few small changes - basically removing some of the characters as I don't have them on my cab (initially at least). I'd probably also consider changing the font colours as I am going red (200/0/0) and white for buttons, Mala and t-molding.

Please though, this is not a request to take more of your time as you've already been really great and I think I should do some of it (once up-to-speed on Gimp etc.) not least because I've got ideas (of which many you've already included here).

Will the black background work well backlit? I know the stars in it and characters will but will the black stay deep or will it look washed out with a light behind it?

[Drnick]

It's looking really good Nick :-) Tell me, how long has it all taken you ?! I've big printers here so I'll print it out and check it out full size. What is the Neon font you've used - I really like that.

Would you be offended if I made a few small changes - basically removing some of the characters as I don't have them on my cab (initially at least). I'd probably also consider changing the font colours as I am going red (200/0/0) and white for buttons, Mala and t-molding.

Please though, this is not a request to take more of your time as you've already been really great and I think I should do some of it (once up-to-speed on Gimp etc.) not least because I've got ideas (of which many you've already included here).

Will the black background work well backlit? I know the stars in it and characters will but will the black stay deep or will it look washed out with a light behind it?

1) Probably about 4 to 5 Hrs,  In honesty It got a lot quicker towards the end.  I was doing it more as practice for myself then anything else.  I can say now that I love Vectors and hate Rasters . (The R-type alien was a Royal pain and could still do with some more cleaning up) I also learned that if you have an AI open it in inkscape, resize it to what you want, then save it as an SVG. As Gimp opens SVG's it made getting clean images quite easy. 

2) Nope not going to be offended in the least.  I can send you the file in XCF Format.  (PM me an email address or I can pop it up into dropbox)  There are 22 Layers so you can move them around, and or delete them as you see fit. (Ultimately it is going to be your artwork)  The font I used is called Neon Font,  I had to cheat a bit with it in Inkscape, Resized it to about 356 saved it down as a png, Then imported that into Gimp, Set a background colour, set the alpha, flattened, removed background colour which just left me with the outline of the font.  Then I just applied the Neon Filter with Dropshadow to it.  (If you need assistance with anything like that when playing feel free to give me a holla). The font for ARCADE was done pretty similar although I used a different font for it. (Can't remember name at the moment, can include in with files).  With that I used the Metallic filter on the basic font and it came out quite nice.

3) Black Background works pretty well Backlit, Mine is primarily Black, The one benefit of yours is that you have stars in the background so if you have any bubbles that you have to pinprick it won't look odd, Mine has 3 tiny little holes that let light through and its really quite annoying. 

[Drnick]

PM Sent, along with email  Sorry about the length of the PM, My missus just said to me "Are you typing out a dissertation or something?
I Said "Summit like dat".    No seriously it's got TLDR written all over it.

[EssexMame]

:-) I will read, promise. I need the artwork and tools in front of me for it to make total sense though ;-)

[Drnick]

Bunged you another PM with a direct link to the file    Looks like I'm gonna be sitting around the house a bit for a while. Got up this morning and felt twinging in me knee, thought little of it, I'm used to aches and pains now.  At work I went to unload the tape drive so just bent at the knees as normal, Next thing I'm head butting a brick wall to take the pain away.  It hasn't swollen up yet but it hurt's like Mo Fo.  So I should have plenty of spare time to help

[EssexMame]

Ow! I take it this is a long-standing knee problem from your comments? How did you do it originally? Great you can help, but I'd not want your knee to pop to be able to do so :-)

[Drnick]

Ow! I take it this is a long-standing knee problem from your comments? How did you do it originally? Great you can help, but I'd not want your knee to pop to be able to do so :-)

Smashed myself into a tree about 25 Years ago coming off a motorbike, obliterated my Femur and knackered the knee.  At the time I did it when I regained consciousness I remember pulling the helmet off, dropping my head back to the ground, looked to my right and thought "Who's foot is that beside my head", Followed the foot up past the ankle to a knee facing the wrong way and realised it was mine. 

[EssexMame]

Ouch!

[EssexMame]

Managed to complete my saw board at least. No mean feat with a 12 week old puppy!

Pleased with it too. Filled holes are the 6mm pilots when I only needed 3mm. 6mm screws and glue probably overkill for 2x12mm MDF also but....

Boring to post I know but this saw board is the first thing I've made out of wood so significant in that way!

[CREDO]

Nice.
Saw boards are so handy, I couldn't have done mine cab without one. I made two in the end, a really long one and a shorter one.

About countersinking mentioned before, I have found that you need to drop the screw heads in deep enough to allow putty to really get in there and allow for sanding, if the screw head is too shallow/flush the top layer of putty is too thin and may crack or fall out.
Apply with a paint scraper or credit card or something saves a lot of sanding later.

[EssexMame]

A 3-day weekend, good weather and still I've got very little done. I did sort a flush trim router bit, and 200 5mmx30mm screws that I'll need to join it all together whilst I was there but...

I resank the screws on the sawboard, and filled it. I didn't even sand it after yet so even that isn't yet complete.

I just need to mark up the MDF with the side panel and cut it. Then use that to template the other side. I think it's taking the plunge now more than anything that's stopping me - the moment of truth as to whether I can actually do this or not!!

[kahlid74]

Saw Boards are Essential to ripping wood.  Good job and enjoy!

[EssexMame]

T-molding.com order arrived in Jamaica on 8th May and it looks like it decided to stay there. Can't say I blame it but I really want my slot cutter now :-(

Still, gives me some time on these rainy days to, er, setup (read: play) Mame. Taken all the spinner/trackball/driving/other control games out for now and added a few other joystick/button games. Pretty sure other control games will come later (switchable panel/add to the current panel) and I'll keep the first one simple.

Other than that, nothing to report. Still have the issue with the USB keyboard not working in mame (XP, Mame 01.48u2 hiscore version) but it works on my main PC (just not the one I'll put in the cabinet) so I've not really looked further either.

[Drnick]

Hehehe Don't worry that happens.  It would have left Jamaica on the same day/next day that it arrived on and will now be sitting in a royal mail sorting office somewhere awaiting customs clearance etc. 

[EssexMame]

I'm sure a sharp 3-bladed spinning nunchuk type router blade will have no trouble in customs :-)

[EssexMame]

My T-Molding order to the UK is STILL listed as in Jamaica since May 8th. Is this normal?

[Drnick]

If you look at my thread you will see how long it took for mine to arrive.  Trust me it left Jamaica a long time ago, it's just that once it leaves they never seem to update to show that it is on route.  Unfortunately Royal mail always seem to have a 3 - 4 week delay on stuff that has to be customs checked. I fully expect it to turn up by the end of the week for you.

[EssexMame]

Cheers Nic. I remember you waiting a long time, I just hoped that was an exception but it doesn't really matter as even with this good weather I've still not got chance to get outside and saw my sides!

What projects are you working on now?

[Drnick]

In all honesty when it comes to projects I haven't been doing anything. I have though celebrated the Wife's 40th Birthday whilst riding rollercoasters in Spain, then came home to find a leaking water header tank, so cleared the cupboard rebuilt the shelving, installed new tank. Other then that its mostly been work/overtime/Home/Dinner/Sleep. It's my go at turning 40 on Saturday so the only project I plan on working through this weekend is a bottle of Stoli 

I really should pull my control panel and put the new piece of Perspex on, Then take some finalised pictures.  But as usual I'm being a bit lazy 

As Afroman would sing.

I was gonna finish off my arcade, until I got high,
I was gonna cut up the Perspex, But then I got high.
It'll be this way forever and I know why
Because I got high, Because I got high, Because I got high.

[EssexMame]

So, it's arrived at the Royal Mail collection point. With a customs charge of £12.98 (inc £8 handling fee). What is the charge for - VAT?

[Drnick]

Import Duty, so yeah basically 20% VAT.  It's ridiculous that they can slap the £8 charge on though, The only way round it all is to get the other end to mark it down as a gift, then there is no duty and no stupid handling charge.  Unfortunately when buying from a legitimate business it's unlikely to get marked as a gift. I think everything I have ever ordered from China that was less then £50 was passed straight through with no issues.  I'm fairly sure all of those were marked as gifts 

[EssexMame]

Summers Over. Time to stop procrastinating on the woodwork side and get it done. The software is there, though I keep tweaking it for no reason and changing game lists but I need to do the woodwork now. I've got all the stuff - wood, brand new router, collar bits, t-molding, joysticks, buttons so WHY don't I just spend an afternoon sawing at least some of the cabinet - even if its just the 2 sides ?!

[EssexMame]

Inspired once more by OND's design and the combo of it and Doc's modular control panel by Ma.go. I want a modular panel at some point as the games I really like cover wheels, guns, trackballs and the lot. My top 5 (in no order) are probably Operation Wolf, Out Run, Arkanoid, Golden Tee and Pac Man - a fair few different controls needed for them!

That said, I can do a 2x6 button and trackball setup for now - inside the dimensions of the cabinet (28" wide I reckon) so it can be taken off and the modular panels added. I do still want to keep it as simple as possible - my lack of woodwork skills is already holding me up at this point. Then the artwork (for Mala and the cabinet) will do so next!

[EssexMame]

Been working on the cabinet design. I'd hoped to build 'something' by this Christmas for when my nephews and all come around but 11 months down the line that doesn't look likely! Still, there's always next Christmas. I can wet their appetites with the games on a PC perhaps this year 

So, my design:
It was originally combination of a slimline Woody and Lusid. In many ways it still is. However, after seeing plans and help galore on OND's Metropolis and combined with the Mago use of this design with the addition of Doc's modular control panel design. Doc's modular panel has always been a long term (phase 2!) goal of mine. The Metropolis has a similar slimline (depth) to Woody's cabinet. I like that cabinet - a real wood one is perhaps in the future too but initially I was using the slimline style only, MDF and some artwork. I expect to make mistakes this first time and therefore need wood filler and painting over which I can't do with the real wood so easily! I expect MDF is also easier to work with.

Therefore, I'm going with OND's metropolis BUT with a control panel inside the width of the cabinet. Later, this can be a modular control panel but initially it will be a 2 player 6 button each (and trackball +3, maybe spinner). The start/coin/pause/other? buttons will be on the vertical panel above the CP. The OND and DOC CP width are 24". I found that a little tight for me (as above) so I'm extending the width of the CP (and therefore internal cabinet dimensions) to 28". This will make the width of the cabinet 29.5". It won't have an overlapping CP (as Woody and Lusid does).

The plans are OND's (thanks - awesome and detailed plans and design steps- I'd not have a second wind without you and Mago's) Metropolis. So - width 29.5" (28" internal) = 749.3mm (711.2mm); Height=73.11" (1857mm) approx 6ft and Depth=574mm (22.6"). The measurements here are all OND's BUT for the width. This I'll do in inches (28") to match the Doc/Mago modular control panel 2/4/8" panels - it'll have 2x2" spacers essentially (or even 4x1") on the panels in those designs. 610mm (OND) = 28" (mine) in all cases in the design. It's mixing metric and imperial though as all width will be imperial I don't see a problem - does anyone else? Its 28" or 711.2mm - the first seems easier :-)

[EssexMame]

Coming up for the years anniversary of this project. Which just goes to show how lame I've been!

Still, I got a circular saw for Christmas so I don't need to borrow a friends which I was very unsure of - rusty and a blade with 3 cutting blades on it - it looks lethal!

I also got some time over the Christmas break to finalise (nearly) the software. It's going to run Mame, Electrem (Acorn Electron) and Winuae/loader (Amiga) initially - 60 games in mame, 35 in Electron and 40 in Amiga. I've used Mala and the TypeR layout with some (very) minor adjustments to show box art well in the "marquee" area. I like the simple/clean design of it and although my cabinet won't have a car theme, as such, it is just a black leather/ red trim look so it fits with the basic colours (I have red/white buttons as j/sticks, red t-molding and expect to paint it black, initially at least).

Oh, and I got a 2 player PS2 controller USB. This will be for players 3 and 4 in the finished cab (or slightly later revisions) but also allows me to play-test the setup when the weathers not so good and I can't do the woodwork so easily.

One issue I have here is that the Electron uses Autohotkey to map original keyboard control to the mame key setup (and then joysticks mapped to these keys in the USB utility for the PS2 controllers). WinUae works with a setup for the controllers either to the joysticks or keyboard (and again the USB utility mapped to these keys) and mame works with joystick=1. However, I can't seem to get ALL to work via Mala with JoyToKey running to do the mapping.

Ideally, JoyToKey would run to map the joysticks to the keypresses but although this works for Mala, it then seems to stop/be ignored once mame or Electrem are running (winuae does seem to work but I wonder if I've still got it as joystick setup). Anyone come across this? I will fiddle some more but if there's an instant solution - great!

If I run

[EssexMame]

My mame version is 0.149 and I think in later versions direct input is ignored (at least a second "keyboard" usb). I could apparently set src\osd\windows\input.c and set #define FORCE_DIRECTINPUT 1. However, its probably as simple to set the joystick 1 and define the buttons accordingly. I don't want to mess it up for when I've got the iPac controls done though, so will leave for now I think.

[EMDB]

My mame version is 0.149 and I think in later versions direct input is ignored (at least a second "keyboard" usb). I could apparently set src\osd\windows\input.c and set #define FORCE_DIRECTINPUT 1. However, its probably as simple to set the joystick 1 and define the buttons accordingly. I don't want to mess it up for when I've got the iPac controls done though, so will leave for now I think.

Stop talking and start building... 

[EssexMame]

Well, Easter weekend has come and gone so did I get anything done? Yes and No...

I spent most of the time Good Friday and Saturday gardening and garage clearing. All well and good, it needed doing, but none of it is Arcade building is it.

Then unfortunately Sunday was wet. All day. Though I had a family meal anyway I had hoped to do some arcade work in the afternoon/evening.  But as I need to do the work outside  - I don't yet have enough space indoors (specifically the garage, though it's getting there) Saturday was a no-go. With more rain forcast for Sunday I wasn't hopeful. Yet in the afternoon at last I had good weather AND time to do something.

Unfortunately the neat sawboard I'd built was for a borrowed circular saw (since returned) and it was too thin for my new one. No matter, I took it apart (despite having glued it and wood-filled over the screws) and rebuilt it to the right dimensions for the new saw. It's not as neat now (undoing the glue was hard work!), BUT it does have a straight edge and it works for my saw.

I then set about marking out carefully the measurements from the Metropolis plans. One of my angles at the top didn't match those on the plans but I figured it doesn't really matter - side one will be the template for side two so they will match anyway I'll just have to be careful with the top section panels and sizings. I'm pretty sure I wasn't wrong here - I'd checked and double checked all measurements.

I extended the front-to-back size of the cabinet as I want my CP integral (I will also increase the width to 28") to allow the CP to be 28x11" and sit within the cabinet dimensions. Those are the only changes I've deliberately made to an excellent cab design (and I like the slimline look too, I just wanted an integral not box type control panel.

For the non-deliberate changes that is on my cutting. I cut the top "inwards" curve right to the line in a haste to get the cutting done. Hopefully not a problem as I can take that part of the cabinet inwards slightly more and curve onto the correct line. I'm at least pleased with the cuts - they are straight and I've not blown out the wood or caused any extra damage (yet!) I was just a little keen to get things done as the skies darkened.

Alas, the rain then came and I rushed the wood back into the garage ready for next weekends glorious sunshine (please!). I did at least take a picture or two just before the rain came though. Doesn't really show a lot except for the one long cut to the width of the cab and the top diagonal cut where I cut too far.

So, not as great as I'd hoped but AT LAST I've started sawing wood that will become my arcade cabinet. Phew! Its been enough to give me the confidence I can do this, in some form, even if it doesn't exactly match OND's or my plans totally as I'd wish :-)

[Malenko]

some people can get a project done in days, for the rest of us it takes a lot longer. Just work on it when you can and we'll be here eagerly waiting to watch your progress 

[EssexMame]

:-) Thanks Malenko. I hope by cabinet 10 I've got the build time down to a week or two ;-)

[stigzler]

Great to see another build, Essex.

There were some measurements/angles (can't remember which) out on the original plans.

I redesigned them with conversions to metric, if any use. For the angles, I took them from three easier points off the face edge:

https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design#TOC-Cutout-Plan

Hope of help.

[EssexMame]

Well, another weekend and (a little) more progress! I've now cut out the single side, with some imperfections to fix and sand and some curves to add.

I do have the basic shape though! Not too many errors either - over-sawing and forgetting the curve (adjusted by dropping the bezel line back 1" to re-add a curve) and a small nick in the CP section as I bought the circular saw back as it was still slowing down (fixed with a bit of wood filler and later sanding). The bezel area is still jagged edges (I'm not as straight with a jigsaw than with a circular saw and sawboard) but again it should be easily sorted with some sanding.

The current shape I have with some closer pics of the  jagged bezel area (part of which is to shape into a curve) and the slight nick error on the top of my CP area are shown in the pics.

It's probably a little too low in the control panel - but do the wheels raise it slightly? I'm 6ft so not oversized (upwards at least ;-)). It's 33 15/32 " high, at the back, though it does slope 5 degrees to the front (11" in total) so the front is slightly lower of course (I don't know how much exactly - not a lot!). Does this seem right, or too low for a CP?

Anyway, it's another long bank holiday weekend in the UK this coming weekend so i should get some decent time to sand this side down and hopefully then route my second side (which I believe I do by jigswaing the basic shape 1/2" outside the current side and then flush-trim routing all the way around the "clamped on top" finished side to cut the 2nd side to the exact size and shape (and then a little sanding).

The rest of the cutting is all square shaped wood panels so it should be easy, right :-)

[stigzler]

The rest of the cutting is all square shaped wood panels so it should be easy, right :-)

Logic would dictate that wouldn't it!? But in reality, just as much hassle. Don't try circular/jigsawing up to the cutline. 1/8 or 1/4" outside the line then (electric) plane down.

[stigzler]

By the way Essex - guessing you're UK - fancy putting yourself on the UK map?

[EssexMame]

Wow. Had decided to do a control panel that could later be slotted onto the cabinet itself yet playable now (posted elsewhere). Had some time owed from work so took the week off to do it.

THEN my wife gave birth to a boy, 5 weeks early, the day before the holiday started. Really happy of course but it does sum up my project (lack of) progress!!! Other priorities for now of course, but I'm sure this new fella will love Pac Man in a few years so I'll get something done for him in time :-)

[EssexMame]

Right! I need to pick up on this! Gone to a pop up arcade in 3 Carnaby Street and I really want one again, if only to complete Track & Field finally!

House moves and small children and crap woodwork have put it all on hold but time to get moving.

[stigzler]

We'll see you again in another 3 years. :p

[EssexMame]

Too true! I’m here a fair bit, actually, but for actual project work progress - yep 3 years minimum!

[Drnick]

Too true! I’m here a fair bit, actually, but for actual project work progress - yep 3 years minimum!

Go for it.
In the 3 4.5 years gone by since I last posted in this thread I've dug out the slope from my garden, built a 6ft high retaining wall from railway sleepers,  an 8ft x 8ft man shed, and decked half the garden.  But do you know what?  Yep that's right, I've still not replaced the control panel plexi on the bartop 

[EssexMame]

In the 3 4.5 years gone by since I last posted in this thread I've dug out the slope from my garden, built a 6ft high retaining wall from railway sleepers,  an 8ft x 8ft man shed, and decked half the garden.  But do you know what?  Yep that's right, I've still not replaced the control panel plexi on the bartop 

Hey, at least you have built the bartop!!
Checked out the pop-up arcade at 3 Carnaby Street (London)? Worth a visit....

[EssexMame]

Stigzler, it’s 2021 so here I am - 3 years later!
Boy is growing up fast, it’s Mario he seems to be drawn to not Pac-Man, but otherwise it gives me hope.
I thought lockdown would give me time but work, home school and generally no time to myself means that’s not been the case
HOWEVER I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered a flat pack. Cheating I know but at least I will build my own arcade controls which is the original point of this forum so hopefully I’m not kicked out in disgust!
Hopefully some progress soon. Not “my” progress as such but at least I’ll have got through the tricky woodwork stage and move onto the electrics and computer parts I’m more comfortable with.

[EssexMame]

At last!

The cabinet itself was CNC cut for me, but the controls and assembly work is all my own (which will be clear in the quality between the woodwork and electrics.

[Mike A]

That marquee area looks really narrow.

[Gilrock]

So it looks like there are 4 screws holding the bezel in place?

[EssexMame]

Marquee is 28”x5”. I think that’s normal or thereabouts. Certainly, it was easy enough to find artwork at rockstar print to meet that size.

The 4 screws hold the perspex screen onto the bezel, not hold the bezel. They will be chrome dome capped, but I won’t put those on until I’ve removed the protective wrapping and completed things.

[Mike A]

28 x 5 is wildly disproportionate compared to a real cab.

[Gilrock]

Yeah bezel / bezel cover whatever you want to call it.  Like a real arcade cab can have a bezel for the CRT but they still call the glass with the graphics a bezel.  Anyways I would have designed it so that sits captive behind the piece at the top and the control panel.  And yes a typical marquee would have a width that is around 3.25 times the height and yours is 5.6 so its not normal.  Problem is when folks just build something and then post it they don't really want to hear design feedback.  If you post your design ideas first then at least we would feel like you considered the ideas and made an informed choice.

[vertexguy]

Looks nice so far.  I hope you plan on a different location for it in the end.  Player 2 will suffer being against that wall and force player 1 to move further away to the left at an awkward angle.

[stigzler]

Next update in 2024?

Don't feel bad. I started my cab in 2013. Effectively, I'm still building it, albeit with some small diversions along the way (currently writing a new Front End). They're a true rabbit hole.

[Ond]

I started my cab in... oh never mind.  Keep going with your project and keep posting.  Opinions and feedback are all useful and all but actual builders are getting thin on the ground at BYOAC. I love seeing what other people build, it's why I keep coming back.  "Build what you dig bro".   

[leapinlew]

Good job! I have an updated name suggestion for ya.

Arcade AF

[EssexMame]

Well I've now finally got around to adding the T-Molding. Probably should've added artwork first, but tbh I don't know what to do for that yet and wanted to at least give a "finished" look to the cabinet/woodwork as it's currently sitting in the house and playable.

I've also wired up a switch for the volume and one for the lights to the outside of the cabinet (back) (i.e. I can turn off the marquee/trackball light without turning off the cabinet or adjust the volume (and even plug in headphones). The light switch was part of the marquee lighting I'd bought but didn't reach outside of the cabinet so I've extended the lead now. The volume/headphone switch was already part of the speaker set I'm using so again I just ran it out of the cabinet between 2 panels and stuck it on.

I've stuck the switches to the cabinet with "glue sticks" temporarily which seem to hold for a few days, but what would be a better/stronger solution - "No More Nails"?

PS: Cabinet is not short/wide but pic has stretched. Can't work out how to correct that at the mo!

[javeryh]

This cabinet will never see artwork 

Edit your post and where the image is add some numbers so the tag is [img width=768 height=1024]http://...[/ img]

[PL1]

I've stuck the switches to the cabinet with "glue sticks" temporarily which seem to hold for a few days, but what would be a better/stronger solution - "No More Nails"?

Hard to say without more info about what you're working with.   

- Got any pics of the switches and where you want to mount them?

- Do you have access to a 3d printer?
-- It's easier to repair/replace the switches if they aren't glued down and it's fairly easy to design a custom mount bracket. (maybe a remix of this rotary encoder mount or a rectangular switch frame that mounts on the cab using screws?)

PS: Cabinet is not short/wide but pic has stretched. Can't work out how to correct that at the mo!

The pic is over 1024 pixels wide/tall and has EXIF rotation -- see info here.


Scott

[EssexMame]

Pic sorted now, thanks (I edited the size to 1024x768 in a photo editor and reattached).

As for the switches, they aren't "set" in the cabinet, simply stuck onto it. Not an elegant solution but they are on the back and it's better than having them unusable inside the cabinet. I'll post a pic here of what I mean later. It's really what is the best solution to stick them (plastic) to the cabinet. the temporary glue dots are, obviously, not holding for long...

The volume switch, as it hangs down, sticks better but I want something stronger to hold the light switch without damaging the cabinet in case I remove/move the switch. NoMoreNails, or SuperGlue?

[PL1]

I'll post a pic here of what I mean later.

Good.  That pic should make it possible to provide (hopefully) useful advice based on the form factor of the switches.   


Scott

[EssexMame]

Good.  That pic should make it possible to provide (hopefully) useful advice based on the form factor of the switches.   

Pic's on the post above now 

[Gilrock]

I'd install a coin door and then mount the switches inside and access through the door.

[javeryh]

I'd install a coin door and then mount the switches inside and access through the door.

100% this.  A coin door will really finish this off (along with some art).

[EssexMame]

I'm not so sure. I actually access the volume a fair bit (different games seem to run at very different volumes) and the headphone socket from the volume control wouldn't work so well through a door - it'd be left open?

I'm also not sure about taking it apart or sawing as-is to add the door. I would like a working coin door, but probably on my next cab rather than this one at this stage I think.

[javeryh]

I'm not so sure. I actually access the volume a fair bit (different games seem to run at very different volumes) and the headphone socket from the volume control wouldn't work so well through a door - it'd be left open?

I'm also not sure about taking it apart or sawing as-is to add the door. I would like a working coin door, but probably on my next cab rather than this one at this stage I think.

If you notice volume differences, I think you can set them individually in MAME.  So you do it once and then forget about it.  Headphones would be another issue... could you use bluetooth for that?

As for cutting the coin door... you can be unbelievable sloppy with it.  There is a 1/4"-1/2" lip around most of them so the hole just has to kind of be close.

[PL1]

Can't tell for sure with those teeny tiny thumbnails, but it appears that you could use a simple 3d printed holder that clips onto the door like a remix of this car cup holder -- or make one for the light switch and another for the volume control.



If hanging it on the door doesn't work, turn it upside down and add a screw hole on the back of the clip so it hangs above the door.   

It should be simple to design a 3d model (or two) for this application if you're interested.


Scott

[yamatetsu]

You could use a wireless mini keyboard that has volume up/down buttons.

[EssexMame]

If you notice volume differences, I think you can set them individually in MAME.  So you do it once and then forget about it.  Headphones would be another issue... could you use bluetooth for that?

I had tried that, but I didn't find it to be very helpful, perhaps I'll try again.
I may be able to use a bluetooth dongle that plugs into the earphone socket but PC isn't bluetooth (it's old!). I probably won't use the earphones much/at all it just seemed like a nice to have