| Main > Main Forum |
| Simple removable control panels |
| << < (6/11) > >> |
| spystyle:
From the video, I thought we could use the loader program to make a custom layout. Was my post completely incorrect ? |
| rCadeGaming:
--- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 16, 2012, 05:18:49 pm ---3 FOOT LONG ARCADE MACHINE JAMMA HARNESS EXTENSION CABLE - 56 PIN EDGE CONNECTOR --- End quote --- I don't think most people would need that many connections for their cp, and a JAMMA connector is pretty bulky. This the next part is clever though: --- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 16, 2012, 05:18:49 pm ---(cut it in half. its already wired on both ends) --- End quote --- You could do this with any of the formats we've been talking about. Just get a cable with a male and female end and cut it in half. --- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 16, 2012, 05:18:49 pm ---Printer cable connectors have a lot of pins, but are not easy to wire, because the pins are so close together... --- End quote --- Guessing you mean D-sub connectors. This isn't really true. It's quite easy with the solder cups. I've been using 22 gauge wire with DB-15 high density ("VGA") connectors without much problem. It's even easier when you're using smaller wire or a more widely spaced connector like a DB-25 or 37. --- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 16, 2012, 05:18:49 pm ---And wouldnt be as easy to get a good connector alignment when joining the male and female ends. --- End quote --- No, not really. Slides in pretty easily, and the connectors are trapezoid-shaped so you can't plug one end in upside down or something. --- Quote from: Xiaou2 on December 16, 2012, 05:18:49 pm ---The connections are also very thin and frail.. and wouldnt hold up well to repeated use. --- End quote --- Now this part is reeaaaally off. The hoods I linked to provide as much strain relief as anything. There is no stress on the connections. I've been constantly swapping around the same custom DB-15 controller cables on my sticks for 3 years now with no problems. --- Quote from: PL1 on December 16, 2012, 08:37:49 pm ---Don't forget that D-sub connectors also come in the crimp version. --- End quote --- I wouldn't really recommend this. Crimping those tiny connections and inserting them all in the housing can be a huge pain in the butt. It's also not nearly as reliable as a single piece solid connector with solder cups. --- Quote from: edekoning on December 18, 2012, 02:39:22 am ---Off all the solutions presented here, USBs are by far the easiest to (un)plug. More importantly it can be done with one hand. All those other connection look like you need two hands to (un)plug (I might be wrong though). --- End quote --- Yeah if one side of the D-sub connector is secured in place (very easy to do), plugging and unplugging a D-sub with one hand is just as easy. --- Quote from: Minwah on December 18, 2012, 04:39:46 am --- --- Quote --- One final thing to consider is if you have any buttons/leds that are not on the CP (e.g. coin door buttons). If so, you either need to buy a separate encoder/controller for them, or wire them to the CP using one of the non-USB options presented above. --- End quote --- No, if you go with the method of having the encoder permanently in the cabinet you just use that encoder. I have coin switches, start buttons and a pause (shift) switch connected all the time. Another good thing about this is that you only need one set of start buttons (if you have somewhere suitable to place them not on the control panel itself of course). --- End quote --- +1 --- Quote from: PL1 on December 18, 2012, 05:25:26 am ---Since nobody else has mentioned it yet, you can get an AVR for a lot less than $25. --- End quote --- I don't know much about these. I'd like to know what effect these have in terms of lag and ghosting and such. USB connections consist of four lines; one for power, one for ground, and two for data. It's hard to believe nothing would be lost or delayed when compressing the signal of dozens of lines to be transmitted over just two. |
| equlizer:
This guy lives not even 20 min from my place!!! Is it just plug and play? I should pickup a few and try them out. --- Quote from: spystyle on December 18, 2012, 12:27:09 pm ---Oh that's interesting :) I saw the video here : http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html And saw the price was only $6.95 here : http://www.foundmy.com/oscom/minimus-avr-usb-instock-p-396.html That's hilarious :) It's fully programmable, that's fun. I guess it only has 20 inputs, but with a shift function it should still be able to support layouts as large as "Street Fighter" and still have many inputs left. Here is what I worked out : 01) Player 1 up (shift available) 02) Player 1 down (shift available) 03) Player 1 left (shift available) 04) Player 1 right (shift available) 05) Player 1 button 1 (shifted ENTER) 06) Player 1 button 2 (shifted ESC) 07) Player 1 button 3 (shifted Player 1 coin) 08) Player 1 button 4 (config MAME to double as Player 1 start) (shift available) 09) Player 1 button 5 (shifted pause) 10) Player 1 button 6 (shifted load/save) 11) Player 2 up (shift available) 12) Player 2 down (shift available) 13) Player 2 left (shift available) 14) Player 2 right (shift available) 15) Player 2 button 1 (shifted TAB) 16) Player 2 button 2 (shifted F12) 17) Player 2 button 3 (shifted player 2 coin) 18) Player 2 button 4 (config MAME to double as player 2 start) (shift available) 19) Player 2 button 5 (shift available) 20) Player 2 button 6 (shift available) (I've noticed you don't need a "Start button", as you can configure MAME so that a player's button doubles as "start") Using all I could think of, there are still 11 inputs left. That breaks the $10 price mark ? I remember when KeyWiz ECO2 broke the $20 price mark :) Look at this wayback page from 2005 : http://web.archive.org/web/20050307011918/http://www.groovygamegear.com/Page2.html That is actually the encoder in the pics at the very top LOL, I had some left over :) I still have one left. OK, have fun! Craig --- End quote --- |
| PL1:
--- Quote from: spystyle on December 18, 2012, 09:47:26 pm ---From the video, I thought we could use the loader program to make a custom layout. Was my post completely incorrect ? --- End quote --- The video describes the KADE which is currently in beta testing and due to be released early next year. The KADE is basically an AVR encoder with improved firmware and additional hardware for those who aren't good at soldering. Just think of the AVR as a motherboard, the AVR firmware as Win98, and the KADE firmware as WinXP -- you can use either OS with the MB, but the newer one will have more features. --- Quote from: rCadeGaming on December 18, 2012, 10:43:55 pm --- --- Quote from: PL1 on December 16, 2012, 08:37:49 pm ---Don't forget that D-sub connectors also come in the crimp version. --- End quote --- I wouldn't really recommend this. Crimping those tiny connections and inserting them all in the housing can be a huge pain in the butt. It's also not nearly as reliable as a single piece solid connector with solder cups. --- End quote --- Only true if you are using the wrong tool -- like vise grips -- to do the crimping. With the right tool (ratcheting crimpers and correct die -- see pg. 74 here) you can make quick and accurate crimps that have rock solid mechanical and electrical connections. If you claim otherwise, I suggest you talk to Nephasth about it -- his connector pron is the gold standard around here IMHO. As a bonus, with the crimp version, you can remove/replace individual pins if you accidently damage them -- with the solder version, you need to replace the whole connector. --- Quote from: rCadeGaming on December 18, 2012, 10:43:55 pm --- --- Quote from: PL1 on December 18, 2012, 05:25:26 am ---Since nobody else has mentioned it yet, you can get an AVR for a lot less than $25. --- End quote --- I don't know much about these. --- End quote --- On this, we agree. --- Quote from: rCadeGaming on December 18, 2012, 10:43:55 pm ---I'd like to know what effect these have in terms of lag and ghosting and such. USB connections consist of four lines; one for power, one for ground, and two for data. It's hard to believe nothing would be lost or delayed when compressing the signal of dozens of lines to be transmitted over just two. --- End quote --- Why don't you ask Sharpfork how much lag there is? AFAIK he hasn't encountered any during his extensive SHMUP gameplay testing on the KADE. Ghosting is a MATRIX encoder (Hagstrom KE24, etc.) problem, so not sure why you brought that up in the context of a discrete input encoder. (AVR, KeyWiz, I-Pac, etc.) If the USB connection causes lag, then your beloved MC Cthulhu must have the exact same problem, right. ::) IMNSHO thread-crapping when you admit not being familiar with the encoder in question is right up there with pissing into a public water fountain. :tool: "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." --Abraham Lincoln Scott |
| PL1:
--- Quote from: equlizer on December 18, 2012, 11:09:35 pm ---This guy lives not even 20 min from my place!!! Is it just plug and play? I should pickup a few and try them out. --- Quote from: spystyle on December 18, 2012, 12:27:09 pm ---And saw the price was only $6.95 here : http://www.foundmy.com/oscom/minimus-avr-usb-instock-p-396.html --- End quote --- --- End quote --- From Foundmy, you get the AVR, but no preprogrammed encoder firmware, screw terminals, or pin headers. You need to program the firmware using directions and files here. (This AVR will also work with the KADE loader program once it is released early next year.) You'll need to solder individual wires, 2.54mm screw terminals, or .1" pin headers to connect your buttons. Not exactly "plug and play" unless you get the pre-programmed ones with screw terminals from Degenatrons, but definitely a cool low cost encoder. (I've got 4 of them to use in various standalone/portable controllers that I'm building.) Scott |
| Navigation |
| Message Index |
| Next page |
| Previous page |