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Simple removable control panels

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edekoning:

Well I would (and will) go for the 'OMG are you crazy' option and spend the 25 on an additional encoder. Off all the solutions presented here, USBs are by far the easiest to (un)plug. More importantly it can be done with one hand. All those other connection look like you need two hands to (un)plug (I might be wrong though). So when swapping the CP you can just hold it in one hand and use the other to unplug. If you need two hands, you first need to put the CP somewhere to free up your hands. And where will you put it, when its still attached.

When you have multiple encoders, led controllers, and what not, then it might be better to only have to disconnect one cable instead of 4/5 usb cables. One final thing to consider is if you have any buttons/leds that are not on the CP (e.g. coin door buttons). If so, you either need to buy a separate encoder/controller for them, or wire them to the CP using one of the non-USB options presented above.

Minwah:


--- Quote from: edekoning on December 18, 2012, 02:39:22 am ---Well I would (and will) go for the 'OMG are you crazy' option and spend the 25 on an additional encoder. Off all the solutions presented here, USBs are by far the easiest to (un)plug. More importantly it can be done with one hand. All those other connection look like you need two hands to (un)plug (I might be wrong though). So when swapping the CP you can just hold it in one hand and use the other to unplug. If you need two hands, you first need to put the CP somewhere to free up your hands. And where will you put it, when its still attached.

--- End quote ---

You have a bit of a point here, for my molex connectors I have to use two hands. However it is easy to sit the control panel in place but 'vertical' and hold in place while plugging in...it only takes a few seconds.


--- Quote ---When you have multiple encoders, led controllers, and what not, then it might be better to only have to disconnect one cable instead of 4/5 usb cables.

--- End quote ---

True, use a USB hub. I have a few panels which have mouse devices/joysticks etc.


--- Quote --- One final thing to consider is if you have any buttons/leds that are not on the CP (e.g. coin door buttons). If so, you either need to buy a separate encoder/controller for them, or wire them to the CP using one of the non-USB options presented above.

--- End quote ---

No, if you go with the method of having the encoder permanently in the cabinet you just use that encoder. I have coin switches, start buttons and a pause (shift) switch connected all the time. Another good thing about this is that you only need one set of start buttons (if you have somewhere suitable to place them not on the control panel itself of course).

I suppose what it boils down to is how many control panels actually require a keyboard encoder?

PL1:

Since nobody else has mentioned it yet, you can get an AVR for a lot less than $25.



You can either solder wires directly to the AVR, use the 2.54mm screw terminals like Degenatrons did, or solder a 12-pin header to the board and use these or similar .1" header cables from Paradise.

   


Scott

EDIT:  Just found out that Degenatrons has some of his AVR encoders with terminals available.  This is not a KADE device but it will be compatible with the KADE Loader software when it is released early next year.  PM him if you're interested.


spystyle:

Oh that's interesting :)

I saw the video here :

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,128745.msg1316035.html

And saw the price was only $7.00 here :

http://www.amazon.com/MINIMUS-AVR-ATMEL-AT90USB162-BOARD/dp/B00HCO6BFK/ref=pd_sim_sbs_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KJSE6FQRG1MDGYY4HRH

That's hilarious :)

It's fully programmable, that's fun. I guess it only has 20 inputs, but with a shift function it should still be able to support layouts as large as "Street Fighter" and still have many inputs left.

Here is what I worked out :

01) Player 1 up (shift available)
02) Player 1 down (shift available)
03) Player 1 left (shift available)
04) Player 1 right (shift available)
05) Player 1 button 1 (shifted ENTER)
06) Player 1 button 2 (shifted ESC)
07) Player 1 button 3 (shifted Player 1 coin)
08) Player 1 button 4 (config MAME to double as Player 1 start) (shift available)
09) Player 1 button 5 (shifted pause)
10) Player 1 button 6 (shifted load/save)
11) Player 2 up (shift available)
12) Player 2 down (shift available)
13) Player 2 left (shift available)
14) Player 2 right (shift available)
15) Player 2 button 1 (shifted TAB)
16) Player 2 button 2 (shifted F12)
17) Player 2 button 3 (shifted player 2 coin)
18) Player 2 button 4 (config MAME to double as player 2 start) (shift available)
19) Player 2 button 5 (shift available)
20) Player 2 button 6 (shift available)

(I've noticed you don't need a "Start button", as you can configure MAME so that a player's button doubles as "start")

Using all I could think of, there are still 11 inputs left.

That breaks the $10 price mark ? I remember when KeyWiz ECO2 broke the $20 price mark :)

Look at this wayback page from 2005 :

http://web.archive.org/web/20050307011918/http://www.groovygamegear.com/Page2.html

That is actually the encoder in the pics at the very top LOL, I had some left over :)

I still have one left.

OK, have fun!
Craig

PL1:


--- Quote from: spystyle on December 18, 2012, 12:27:09 pm ---I guess it only has 20 inputs, but with a shift function it should still be able to support layouts as large as "Street Fighter" and still have many inputs left.

--- End quote ---

Wiring the shift functions for the AVR encoder firmware is covered on the resources page under "Extended Mode Wiring Diagram" here or you can skip the fancy wiring and use an encoder in the cab to handle your admin buttons, pinball flippers, etc.


Scott

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