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Network cables for wiring
Nephasth:
Against.
MonMotha:
I'd avoid the solid wire that's usually used for building wiring. It will break rather easily if repeatedly flexed.
The stranded stuff that gets used for patch cables can be serviceable. You'll probably need to fold the wire back on itself a few times to get it to reliably hold in even the smallest standard size crimp connector (the red ones). The wire is still pretty small and may break more easily than you'd like.
The RJ-45 connector is kinda annoying if you were planning on using it. 8 wires only gives you room for 3 buttons + joystick (and ground), so you'll probably end up having to use two plugs per player for a typical build. The annoying locking tab is almost guaranteed to break on you at some point.
Real arcades typically use AWG22 or comparable stranded hookup wire. This is surprisingly durable, but getting all the colors you may want in small lengths can be tough. Good ol' Bob Roberts has a bunch of options, though. This will hold great in normal red crimp connectors. This is what I tend to use.
yotsuya:
I used Cat5 on my panel originally. I ripped it out last week and am now using Molex. I just ordered colored wire from Bob.
slug54:
I used it for my recently completed modular panel.
It really made my modular panel easy to use with each type of control having it's own color.
I didn't use crimp conectors,I soldered all my connections since they are going to be moved around alot I didn't want any connections coming loose.
wcndave:
So some differing opinions... I really wanted to check that it would carry the current required, ie that the gauge was enough.
Thanks really for some very good detailed replies, and to you too Nap ;-)
I think I am doing something in between what has been shown.
I want to have 4 different panels (standard, golf, driving, ramparts).
my first idea was to have 4 full panels.
then i decided that I was wasting buttons, so I wanted to put the start / coin / mouse buttons on a fixed panel and the rest on a movable. Then eh panel would have it's own ipac, and i would plug the USB into a USB patch panel, and the network cable in for the 6 fixed buttons (2 of which are hidden).
I actually like the rj45, and the catch that clicks in, keeps it secure, not broken one yet, and have at least 30 in the house.
I am now seeing that yet another step would be to have ALL the controls go through to the "patch panel" and then I would only need to buy 1 i-pac instead of one for each.
downside is that i would need some way of passing up to 30 signals through, so 4 network cables. HDD connectors might work, however they are extremely fine gauge so that might be a step too far?
Otherwise I end up with multiple connections, which I really wanted to avoid if possible (well barring the USB + Network)