Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
First Driving Cab Setup....Need some emulator control help?
junkmailjame:
If anyone has a version that has worked for them just let me know.
In the mean time I am going to convert my wheel / yoke to a pot as recommended by badmouth.
It looks like Star Wars and my Roadblasters use just about all the same parts. I bought a pot and a gear that works in Star Wars and should work great in my RB. I will post the full conversion when I am all done.
In the mean time, any help with the pedal would be awesome.
"Help me obi wan"
J
BadMouth:
I came accross a similar problem today while tinkering with some homemade rotary joysticks.
They worked fine for Ikari Warriors, but wouldn't work for Heavy Barrel or Victory Road no matter what I tried.
The optical encoders I used were extremely low resolution (12 pulse).
Same behavior as you're experiencing. It would work fine in windows. It would map fine in Ikrari warriors, but in the other games, it wouldn't even be detected when mapping controls. I hooked up a higher resolution encoder (900 line) and it registered immediately. I even used the same Opti-Wiz interface both times.
Not sure if it's the same thing, but since your pedals are only 5k, they are also low resolution. There isn't a lot of variance for MAME to judge the "steps" by.
Wire the pedal input on the A-Pac up to a $3 100k linear taper potentiometer and see if it makes any difference.
I thought the A-Pac worked with any value pot, but it's worth a shot since we've tried everything else.
junkmailjame:
100K!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOW I AM PLAYING WITH POWER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
in short..............it worked :)
Thank you so much for the help BadMouth. The 100k pot from radio shack did the trick.
I am now on to the steering. I have a pot mounted, but with my setup the wheel (yoke) goes further than the pot. It is a 270 wheel (yoke) with a stop at the bottom. Here is what it looks like.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8159763230_59c503eaa9_k.jpg
I bought the smaller gear and drilled a new hole so it would match up correctly with the big gear.
So any suggestions of which pot to get? I tried the 5k one I bought but the pot stopped before the yoke did.
Thanks soooo much again for all the help.
J
BadMouth:
--- Quote from: junkmailjame on November 05, 2012, 09:02:27 pm ---I am now on to the steering. I have a pot mounted, but with my setup the wheel (yoke) goes further than the pot. It is a 270 wheel (yoke) with a stop at the bottom. Here is what it looks like.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8490/8159763230_59c503eaa9_k.jpg
I bought the smaller gear and drilled a new hole so it would match up correctly with the big gear.
So any suggestions of which pot to get? I tried the 5k one I bought but the pot stopped before the yoke did.
Thanks soooo much again for all the help.
J
--- End quote ---
The smaller gear makes things worse, as it turns multiple times for every one turn of the big gear.
Either need to change the gearing or find a pot that can make multiple turns.
Radioshack won't have it, but you can find them online.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-100K-Ohm-10-Turn-Rotary-Taper-Potentiometer-Pot-3590S-2-104L-Potentiometer-/271025236982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f1a5cebf6
I'd put a dot on the small gear with a marker and see how many turns it makes when turning the steering lock to lock.
Then order a pot that can make at least that many turns.
I assume there is no way to attach the pot directly to the steering shaft?
PL1:
Standard replacement parts for a SW yoke won't work right because the 270` wheel turns WAY further than the yoke does.
To figure out the right size gear to replace the 28 tooth, use this formula:
60 tooth gear (#degrees the wheel can turn/360 degrees) = X tooth gear (#degrees the pot can turn/360 degrees)
If it is close, round up after solving for X.
example:
60(270/360)=X(360/360)
60(.75)=X(1)
45=X ==> 45 tooth gear or slightly larger.
You may also consider using a smaller gear in place of the 60 tooth.
Scott
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