To be able to keep all updates on the first page I have moved all 2012 updates and the original first post to the 3d post of this topic!
This project is supported by: This build will be based on the following hardware:• Xbox classic (v1.6 with duo-x2) with 200GB hdd and coinops
• 21" samsung Syncmaster 214T LCD monitor (has an s-video input so it's perfect for the xbox and I can always switch to PC later)
• 22 HAPP buttons
• 3 smaller buttons
• 2 Battop fighter sticks with Cherry switches
• 2 KADE encoders (prototypes -> Thanks a lot Jon!)
After some useful remarks after posting my first design here's the somewhat final design for my bartop:
Blueprints:Since it's now clear that all parts fit like they should and I got a few requests for this I decided to make a "blueprint" of the design:
Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with rasterEvo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster© floriske.nl 2012
These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.
These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.
Updates:Updates are listed from new to old so the latest update is always on top.
20-10-2013Time to call this project "Done!"
After playing around with my cnc router a lot I decided that it was time to finish this project.
A few small things still had to be done.
First of all the serial plate and bezel "logo":
Next the component to vga converter (glad I decided to go for this instead of s-video, picture is way better):
And a small dimmer for the marque led strips:
And with that it's finally finished:
Thanks everybody, for all the help and inspiration!! And special thanks to the people of KADE and Arcadewinkel.nl03-07-2013finished tidying up the internals and mounted the back door:
I had some noise on the video signal which turned out to be caused by the 12V psu for the amp and LED strips. Simply connecting a wire between the PSU negative and the monitor chassis solved this. (the black wire you see running to one of the vesa mounting holes).
With this the project is just about done
All that's left to do is:
- Open the xbox and solder the power and eject wiring for the CP
- The little artwork detail on the bezel (decided to try and print this myself on our OKI laser at work on waterslide decal paper which I ordered today)
- The serial plate. For this I have some leftover "stainless steel" decoration foil onto which I will stick the design, once again on waterslide decal paper.
01-07-2013More pics than text because I'm on a short time span here
Mounted the marquee LED strips:
The lit result needs to become a bit more yellowish, hope I can achieve this by adding some yellowish vinyl behind the artwork.
Mounted my amp on a piece of wood that is stained in the same color as the cabinet (more on this later)
And the promised quick overview of what it looks like atm:
29-06-2013Spent some time on wiring the control panel today. Damn what a time consuming job
Just reminds me why I do these projects for fun, not for commercial purposes. That would never pay of
First of all the grounding harness:
And fully wired:
Didn't solder the shift and power leds yet but that's peanuts compared to the rest!
16-05-2013Yesterday I've picked up my artwork and apllied it. The clearview stickers look great behind the plexiglas and polystyrene:
25-05-2013After a well earned holiday I picked up my cabinet base last wednesday. In the meantime I've mounted my speakers and drilled the last two holes in the CP for the joysticks. Did a quick placement of all buttons etc. just to get an idea what it will look like.
Progress is still slow, but ongoing
03-05-2013Glued the base together so it's now ready for staining/painting.
30-04-2013I've put aside some of the other stuff I'm busy with atm and finally did some more work on my bartop.
First of all because my admin panel is 41mm thick (2x18mm wood + 5mm top) I had to route down the backside of it so the happ buttons can be mounted properly:
Next I routed the holes for the joysticks.
First I made a template for the routing work. Since I'm using a 12mm router bit in a 17mm guide bush I had to make the holes in the template 5mm larger than the desired final size.
For correct alignment I drew a cross onto the CP as well as on the templates at the center of each side.
First I routed the trough and through holes for the body of the joysticks.
And next the ones to flush mount them.
23-02-2013It's been a while because of the cold weather and I've been busy with all kinds of other stuff, but here's a small update of the project.
First of all I've mounted my speakers.
After that I could measure how much room there was left between the marque and the speakers and route slots for the backpanel of the marque (this wil be removable just like the marque itself)
Next to that I've routed a small slot in the top of the front panel (underneath the cp) so when I would like to use normal controllers with the xbox I can route the cable through this slot.
Hope to make some more progress the following days.
28-01-2013Just routed my cp top.
First I've done some testing since the polystyrene tends to melt and for those ever needing to route this material:
Use a lower speed, work counterclockwise and move fast, that gives the best result.
the pics are directly after routing, no sanding yet and the protective plastic is still on on one side (between the wood and panel), any scratches you see are on the sheet instead of the material itself.
26-01-2013Finally after some drama: some success!
After ruining my plexi twice I decided to go for polystyrene this time (they didn't have thick enough lexan at the local hardware store). This tends to melt a bit faster so I had to drill a bit slower, but doesn't crack as easy as plexi does.
Here are some photo's of drilling the first plexi panel (used somewhat the same proces for the final one)
First I spray glued my cp template onto the wood and pre drilled the holes with a 3mm drill:
Next I placed the plexi panel on top and drilled the 2 holes for the joysticks so I could mount the plexi to the wood with 2 hex bolts.
After this I drilled all holes into the plexi as well using a battery drill and drilling from the back (through the existing holes in the wood first)
Next step: drilling the buttons. the happ buttons went just fine, but with the smaller admin buttons I messed things up.
So as mentioned I bought a polystyrene panel and redrilled all the holes using the wooden cp as template:
Next step: routing the edges with a flush trim bit and rounding them after that.
17-01-2013Yesterday I mounted the hinge panel and glued the cp to it:
Unfortunately I did a slight miscalculation on the hinge point, not a major problem, but I wanted the cp to open up just a bit further than it does now, but yet again not too much because else the joysticks would/could hit the screen.
Still it opens up more than enough to reach the xbox etc. inside the cabinet without having to open the back panel.
The cp will be fit with a gas strut or something similar so it stays open, for now a screw driver will do
15-01-2013It's been a while since I posted an update, mainly due to the holidays and being busy with all kind of other stuff. Amongst which "Selling my motion sim".
But picked this up again today and started with making my cp hinge points.
At first I wanted to use standard hinges for this, but thought of a method of creating something my self (which is more fun of course
).
Instead of the panel that was cut for this purpose I took a leftover piece with the same length as the original one. It's still a bit too wide but I will cut this to the right size later.
First of all I drilled a hole with my dowel drill on each side of the panel at the point I want the panel to turn:
Next I routed little slots with my bench top drill which has a cross table for simple routing work.
Took a couple of dowels, drilled a 2,5mm hole in them and fitted an m3 hex bolt:
Putting the parts together results in my own "sliding" hinges which makes the cp easily removable when needed.
To drill the holes inside the side panels of the cabinet I used a few simple dowel center points.
All 2012 updates have been move to the 3d post of this topic to be able to keep all updates on the first page of the topic