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NEO-GEO 4-25 version 3 "Gossamer" build. (second monitor now working in windows)

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werdna:
I started a question about the CP design for this cabinet re-do in the "main" forum but my photos of the restoreredo probably belong here.

Warning right up front I'll probably put a lot of photos here and I'm sure most of them won't be all that useful.

I got the cab of CL from a guy that was going to burn it to get rid of it.  He apparently used the parts in another restore and sold the rest.  There was some wood damage on the right side of the cab but otherwise it is in good condition.  Price so far  $0.

Sorry about the focus on some of these.  Blame Apple.






werdna:
Oh, "Gossamer" is a Looney Tunes reference.  Google it.

On to the plans.  My initial take at a layout was this:


With some pondering and assistance I believe the admin buttons will now be limited to the 3 white buttons that appear on the regular Neo-Geo CP. 

With a plan starting I decided to build a box where the metal CP used to be.  The plan is do the CP and a front lip at a right angle.  The base and lip will be 5/8 MDF with a 1/4 inch sheet over it.  Lowes locally didn't have 1/4" MDF so that will be plywood.  I intend to flush top mount the joysticks in the MDF and then cover that with the dust washers underneath with the 1/4 layer.  I'll probably just paint the CP and not do a paper/vinyl graphic covered with clear plastic.





messing around with some ideas on how to do a marquee in that HUGE Neo-Geo cavern up top...
[img  ]http://www.werdna.net/arcade/IMG_5591.JPG[/img]

Removed the red vinyl from the coin area as it was "gross"


Primed the coin area and the body work in the cabinet damage




Some paint from Ace Hardware

werdna:
After a couple glasses of wine the other night my buddy Barry "the human clamp" and I laid out the button holes and drilled them.



After work today I test fit my over/under coin door out of my other arcade machine into the cabinet.  It will probably live in this one instead as the other will be turned into a dedicated 1 player machine and I plan to do something "funky" on the coin door area of that cab.  This one is turning out more like an attempt at a partial restore.  Coin doors are nice.



Next I set the stripped joystick housings down on the CP and traced them.  1st I cut out the middle area that will pass completely through the MDF with a jigsaw.  No pictures.  I must have been excited to get going.  Here are the plastics test fit in those holes.



While they are in there trace with a sharpie so that I can route em by eyeball.  Professionals make a jig.  Someday I should make a jig.  For now I just go slow and do it by hand.





Test fitting



Focus!  Focus!  well you get the idea even tho it is blurry.



Top piece test fit.  You'll notice I enlarged the holes.  Not 100% sure about this but sometimes this is what you get when you work without a plan.



Fits well enough for rock and roll.  Wood glue in the areas that won't squeeze out into the button holes or onto the sticks and start clamping with buttons and clamps.





Well that has to dry overnight so I took the time to post up everything to date.  More to come soon.

Next steps:


* remove screws along top of CP that were used to clamp lower alignment piece
* drill 3 more holes for p1, p2, menu
* wood filler
* sand
* sand
* prime
* paint
* punt

werdna:
I have no patience.  :)  It has been a couple of hours so I took off the clamps and drilled the holes for the admin buttons.





Wondering how I drilled those holes through 3 different pieces of wood?  Drill press and hole saw.  Running the drill press on the slowest speed.
The wood glue holds very well :)



Next up, figure out how to use wood putty on that surface and around those wonky holes so that things can be made nice and smooth.
The answer, paint sample cards from Ace Hardware.



Now, this is absolutely not how I really think wood filler is supposed to be used but I was glopping it in the big holes so that I can carve them later.
Not sure if this will work or not.  I do know that the palm sander is going to get a workout tomorrow.



I wonder how many times I'm going to have to attempt this to get good looking joystick holes.

-Andrew

Yvan256:
I'm always glad to see another Neo-Geo project!

About the dynamic marquees, you could probably use a regular monitor in the whole top area, display fake speakers with the Neo-Geo marquee and  fake the four mini-marquees, display random marquees on the mini-marquees slots 2,3 and 4 while displaying the real mini-marquee in slot 1. When playing a non-MVS game, use the full width to display the usual horizontal marquee. Attached is a crude drawing explaining the idea.


--- Quote from: werdna on September 05, 2012, 09:52:50 pm ---Warning right up front I'll probably put a lot of photos here and I'm sure most of them won't be all that useful.
--- End quote ---

The problem is not the many photos, after all that's what a build thread is all about!

The problem, at least in my opinion, is that you're posting heavy, huge megapixels photos that don't even fit in most people's monitors. Could you scale them a bit before posting?

I'm not sure if it's a problem due to the update to the forums, but I can't remember seeing huge photos directly in the threads before, you had to click on a half-screen-sized photos to view the original ones.

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