[SOLVED] Blowing 3 amp fuse after capkit

[epicfatigue]

Hey everyone,

Picture was okay before capkit,

Now i have was almost looks like three flashing images, (however they dont look like they are rolling)

now i think i might know what the problem is,

along with the capkit i replaced the vert snc pot (200k) however i only had a 10k lol just wanted to see if i had picture.

i noticed that the pot that came off had 3 legs.

but leg 1 & 2 showed the same resistance as leg 1 & 3.

Mine however only shows leg 1 and 2 or leg 2 & 3. not let 1 & 3.

i am hoping that its just the pot that is making the screen the way it is. did i buy the wrong type of pot? (other then the resistance lol) was told a 200ohm was there and i got that however when i pulled it off i noticed it was a 200k so just tryed a 10k to see if i could get some kind of a stable picture.

here is what i am seeing.

[epicfatigue]

okay so repaired the original pot, and that took care of that problem will order a replacement shortly.

However my picture color is really nice, i can almost see the tinyest thin black lines in the picture.

horizontal thin lines evenily spaced apart all the way up the screen.

Is  it possible that i have knocked a pot or two on the back of the neckboard while recapping?

Will upload some photots soon camera is dead.

[epicfatigue]

Okay Guys, so i have taken some photos it doesnt look that bad on the camera but when you are infront of it its ^&#%&*#$^(@#



So what it appears to be is thin black lines evenly spaced from left to right across the whole screen.

Any ideas what might be causing this?

kinda wished i had of just left it alone now

 

[lilshawn]

check your grounds. looks like your getting some interference in the signal.

[epicfatigue]

do you mean the main ground to the neck board or the neg side of the caps?

I did have to cut the ground going to the neck board and put a connector on it. might remove it and re solder it.

Quick question.

should the monitor be discharged when cutting and re soldering this back together? or can i get away without doing that with the ground?

[mgb]

You'd be best off discharging first and remove the whole board just as you would have done for the doing the cap job in the first place. That way you can go through it thoroughly.
just a quick question, you don't have scan lines enabled in mame?

[epicfatigue]

ill double check but i didnt have this before the caokit so im gunna say i doubt it.

I discharged the monitor and replaced the ground cable ( the only one ii tampered with when i did the capkit) no change what so ever.

So i guess i am going to have to pull it out again and go right through it see if i am missing anything else.

Any other ideas? is there any other common grounds i should be checking

[mgb]

I may be way off here, but I've worked on monitors where after working on them, the settings would be off (which makes a lot of sense because you are changing values in away).
One particular monitor I remember, the picture was all big and pix elated after. Have you gone through and tried messing with the adjustment pots.

also, you really should pull the board and double check all of your caps.
Make sure you didn't forget to cut any leads and verify proper polarity and value of each one.

[epicfatigue]

what Pot could cause this?

I will try it tongiht

[mgb]

just all of the adjustments, depending on what you have. I'm not sure what monitor you have, I didn't see it listed. but I'm talking about your adjustments for vertical size, horizontal size... that kinda thing.

[epicfatigue]

Ah okay,

I have a WGk7000 should have put that in the description.

[lilshawn]

Don't mess with the B+ or the x-ray pots. things can go sideways on you like RFN.

[mgb]

On the K7000 you should have a seperate small control board with pots for adjusting vertical size and contrast plus others.
And if needed (hopefully not) the horzontal width may need adjusting but that's not just a simple pot, it is on the main board and needs to be adjusted with a plastic adjustment tool (not a metal allen key, you will get injured)

I would be curious to see if a simple contrast adjustment fixes it because you changed caps, it may be that the contrast could have been cranked with the weak caps and now its too strong

[Nephasth]

On the K7000 you should have a seperate small control board with pots for adjusting vertical size and contrast plus others.
And if needed (hopefully not) the horzontal width may need adjusting but that's not just a simple pot, it is on the main board and needs to be adjusted with a plastic adjustment tool (not a metal allen key, you will get injured)

The majority of K7000 series monitors I have come across don't have a remote board and have most of the pots mounted on the rear edge of the chassis. As far as adjusting the horizontal width coil... I adjusted one of mine with a metal allen wrech. I didn't get shocked (I was very careful), but the internal threads (plastic) of the width coil melted and seized the adjustment in place. Definitely locate a non-conductive adjusting tool if you ever need to adjust a width coil. Width coils are not cheap (about $15) and the supply of new ones (for K7000s) is getting smaller and smaller.

[Mysterioii]

Picture was okay before capkit

Then WHY did you do it?

Yeah I agree wholeheartedly...  that's not something I'd consider "preventative maintenance"...   

[mgb]

Picture was okay before capkit

Then WHY did you do it?

Yeah I agree wholeheartedly...  that's not something I'd consider "preventative maintenance"...   

I disagree, while I don't typically do a cap kit unless its needed, still I say replacing old caps is "Preventative maintenance"

[epicfatigue]

Hey Guys,

First off thanks i have pulled the board out and will check all my grounds from one side to the other.

And the picture was dull, but working so since i am restoring it i would like it done and dusted i will go use an esr meter and check caps C57 etc.

I did have a question that i really needed answered as i may be my problem.

The Pots on this board i notice all 3 legs seem to show a resistance.

EG the original pot  lets 1 and 2 show resistance and so do legs 1 and 3.  That being said legs 1 and 2 are in parallel and and leg three attachés to another part of the board.


Now the pots i have seen in the shops only seem to have leg 1 and 2 or legs 2 and 3 not 1 or 3 or 3 and 1.

Is this a different kind of pot?   

[epicfatigue]

Hey guys so c38 was around the wrong way,

so i tested it passed fine so re installed the correct way and now i have no neck glow.


This would have been my original bar problem.


However me being the --missioncontrol-- that i am i accidently took a track off in the orginal install on c40
on the neg side. (first time installing the cap kit)

So when i read it could be a ground problem i thought myabe i wasnt ment to fix that track and took it off and started it with that.
When i did this i had a red flicker on the screen and funny patterns so i turned it right off and then put it back how it was ment to be and then put c38 the right way around and powered it up no neck glow....



What should i do now?

what could i have blown not having c40 neg side connected?

[epicfatigue]

Hey guys sorry above where i said c38 i ment c57 but since i had c40 with ground not connected do i need to replace c38?

[epicfatigue]

Hey guys replaced a few caps got.c38 on order however i noticed the 3amp fews at the bottom of the cabinet has blow. Does this mean there should be anything else i should be replacing?

[epicfatigue]

Okay guys.

I hear the degaussing coil fire then nothing and the fuse is blow i am lost here guys where do i start?

[epicfatigue]

Unpluged the monitor and the fuse doesnt blow. Then disconected the degausing coil and fuse still blew really need some advice guys

[mgb]

have you gone through everyone of your caps to make sure they are installed correctly. if you're waiting for the cap for c38, was it really a good idea to fire it up yet?
I've gotten a little lost in your post because I'm confused on exactly what steps you've taken. the monitor was working except there was some kinda noise in the picture and then you fixed some backward caps and a ground and now the fuse blows.
I think thats how its gone but maybe I'm missing something.
I think the best step right now is to trace back your steps to what you did that may now be blowing your fuse.
maybe the fuse is blowing right after a particular cap charges.

[mgb]

Sorry, I just realized that its the main cabinet fuse that's blowing.
have you tried just unplugging the degauss coil from the monitor.
Its very possible that when putting your monitor back in you may have pinched and grounded the degauss coil (I've done that before) on the metal frame.

[epicfatigue]

Hey yeah they are the steps i have taken. I hear the coil fire then nothing with the coil unplugged i still have a blown fuse i will pull them all out again

[epicfatigue]

Okay Guys,

Monitor = k7000

Sorry for the mess of this thread.

But here is where we are no i will give a quick summary.

I Installed a Capkit into a Monitor that was a little dull.

Fired it up and it worked however the pot i had was damaged so i replaced it and i had what looked like jail bars.
So i checked my earths and i unbridged a connection i made that i thought shouldnt be there. Turns out it was suposed to be the monitor fired then skitzed out and shutdown.
The connection i unbridged was ground to C40. (the track lifted so i bridged it to where it was supposed to go)

Please note its blowing 3amp cabinet fuse not the monitor one.

I replaced the fuse fired her up and it blew it right away.
However i did hear the coil fire.

Unplug the coil and nothing and also blows the fuse.

So i pulled it all out and have now gone over the board.

here are my findings.

C38 = 409.2nf

C18 = No ground

C48 = No ground

C22 = No ground


Now i am no master at this but i traced the ground tracks and they appear to stop at IC3 and LA7823 SL3.

Could either of these two be shorted and not providing ground to the above 3 caps?

Let me know where to go from here guys.

If i have missed out on anything let me know.

[epicfatigue]

Hey everyone i went over the whole board and a cap was in the wrong way. When i was testing all the grounds and following the tracks i was looking at the large cap next to the coil. And i was like well acording to the top your in the right way but acording to the tracks on the back its the other way. So i got out a diagram and sure enough it was mis labled so i tested the cap was a okay spun it around the right way fired it up wella she works. The bars i was seeing was due to a adjustment pot. Turned it and she looks amazing. Doing this from my phone so will post pixs tomorrow at work.

 want to thank everyone for there input. I learnt alot anout crts and would def do this again. As much as i missed my arcade i enjoyed the challenge!

[mgb]

 
Its great to hear that it all worked out.
I know it sucks to be faced with such confusion but it sure does feel good after its all worked out huh?

[epicfatigue]

Oh hell yeah,

Best feeling in the world!
This is my new hobby and i have loved every minute of it.
I want to know how to fix/repair//modify everything on this bad boy.

This is an ongoing project and i have focus so much time on the internals i will be posting a large post once its all finished of the project and it is one of a kind.

Here is a little bit about the machine.


Machine was originally a Karnov from 1987 come from USA and then was converted to High Impact Football. 
The unit has sat decommissioned for 12 years in a she in Australia.

I managed to score it for a bargain however nothing was know about the machine other then it had no gamebaord.

I took it home and powered it up using the BRAND NEW stepdown transformer that was in the coinbox lol 


The machine was missing the back and coindoor and mechs had been removed.


I wanted this machine to be a beast and be able to run unsupported games such as Guantlet legands.

So i have put the following hardware inside it.

Corsair PSU 430watt.
Asus Rampage x48
Intel Zenon dual core at 5.5ghz
Big cooler
Arcade VGA3000
8gig of Hyperx DDR2 1040mhz
4tb HDD space.

Running Gameex Frontend.

The control panel layout went some serious work and i converted it to what you see below running an IPAC2.

I have also made mounted to USB slots under player 1 and 2 and then i have added 2x 2.5 mil jacks either side of it  both completely concealed unless you went looking.

The jacks hold 24volt 2amp 
The USB's are directly connected to the computer.

I then got my hands on 2x Namco Guns with Recoil.
I mounted inside an AIMtrack and used a transistor short the coil to ground when fired on the screen (and yes when you shout out to reload it doesnt fire )

And that is where i am at at the moment.

The unit is about to be dissembled and patched up then sprayed as i do not want to laminate.

Will be keeping the front black and the sides and back white.

Then i will get all the arcade characters i loved from my childhood and nintendo etc etc.
Sick them on the sides to make a cool decoupage then spray the dies and back with industrial clear.

Will look top notch at the end and would love to share it with everyone.

Also Inside the machine i have mounted a 5.2 500wat stereo as it also doubles as a jukebox.

Would love input on this project