Newbie TV walkthrough, please!

[Amra]

Thank you very much for the images! Truly appreciate it! =)

It is a pretty interesting looking project, and a pretty nicely made board. I might have to bite the bullet and purchase one for the second system that I plan on making at some point (one vertical, one horizontal, lol).  I'm hoping to help work on a direct input RGBHV hacks for TV's, but if those don't succeed, this seems like a good alternative.  I'm having good luck with the CVS287, but its nice to keep ones options open.  Besides, an all in one solution that achieves the same thing without the need for hacking would be nice.

Thanks again!

[tiobolinha]

My pleasure. You guys have been helping me so much. It's nice to be able to give something back.

I'll send you a PVT with Johnny's email.

Regards.

[tiobolinha]

It is a pretty interesting looking project, and a pretty nicely made board. I might have to bite the bullet and purchase one for the second system that I plan on making at some point (one vertical, one horizontal, lol).  I'm hoping to help work on a direct input RGBHV hacks for TV's, but if those don't succeed, this seems like a good alternative.  I'm having good luck with the CVS287, but its nice to keep ones options open.  Besides, an all in one solution that achieves the same thing without the need for hacking would be nice.

Thanks again!

Hi Amra, I sent you the message. I also talked to Johnny and let him know some people from the forum might contact him. He seemed excited about it. If you find any problems in getting this device shipped let me know. I'll help you get it.

I'm very interested in your hacking project. Please share it in the forum and let us know your progress.

[dmckean]

Any model with component inputs should work, as long as it doesn't support higher than 480i.  All of the ones I've seen were 15kHz only (what you want).  Post the model number of any specific set you're looking at to confirm.

After weeks of searching for any TV that size with component inputs I've found a Phillips 20PT643R01. Is there anything wrong with this particular set or Phillips sets in general?

[rca420]

Hi all,

Apologize for thread jacking, but I was wondering if anyone is selling a vga to scart cable for the cvs287. I tried building it twice by following the diagram and it just didn't work out. I've spent more money buying the parts than I'd like to spend and I'm at the point where I just want to enjoy some good gaming. I would be more than happy to buy the cable off someone. Again, sorry for disrupting the flow of your conversations. But desperate time calls for desperate measures. 

Please PM me if you have help. I am located in the CONUS. Thanks!!

[Paradroid]

After weeks of searching for any TV that size with component inputs I've found a Phillips 20PT643R01. Is there anything wrong with this particular set or Phillips sets in general?

Philips are a good, solid brand. You can't go too wrong there.

[Paradroid]

I modified your circuit to be a bit simpler

Thanks for this Amra. I finally got around to trying this out last night using a piece of Veroboard to build the circuit. The old circuit I had been using successfully for VGA to SCART cables wouldn't work properly with my direct to Jungle IC hacks but this one does! Woohoo! This means I can eliminate the UMSA and Extrons from my chain and make standalone RGB input hacks for my TVs instead.

[dheck]

Guys can you help me out?  Using the CVS287 I followed the schematic posted below.  I am using an ATI4350 video card with CRT EMUdriver connected to a 27" SONY CRT.  The second monitor shows up fine in Windows 7.  Below is the image I am getting.  It's hard to make out but that is the Windows 7 background extended onto the SONY CRT.  Where should I even start diagnosing.  I checked my wiring and everything seems to be correct.  Any advice on where to start?



     

[lilshawn]

you may have to tie ground to pin 17/18 of the scart socket as well.

[dheck]

I think I just figured out what I missed.  I did not ground pins 5,6,7,8,9 and 10 on the dsub.  I will try that and see how it goes.   

[theAEoN]

On the journey to building my first cabinet and I'm getting my hardware sorted out.

So far, I'm working with the following hardware:

Intel i3 2100
4GB ram
Powercolor Radeon HD 6750
Windows 7 64bit
CVS287 Transcoder
24" Sony Trinitron KV-24FS100

To build my VGA -> SCART cable, I used the following directions coupled with some forum reading guides:

http://scarthunter.blogspot.ca/2012/04/how-to-make-vga-to-scart-cable.html

Resulting in this:



Dotted lines go to the respective shielding colors which were twisted and shrink-tubed into separate cables.

I'm going the easy composite sync route using the two 1k resistors instead of the sync circuit for now as I don't have any veroboard, diodes, or transistors on hand.

After the second cable was done (first was a disaster and done without helping hands) I loaded up CRT Emudriver 2.0 (and enabling both syncs as positive and enabling composite sync) using Calamity's HD5450 guide and ATOM-15 which resulted in a steady 640x480 windows desktop... with a ton of overscan to resolve now.

Some issues that I have so far:

1. That the top of the image looks to be pincushion in the top right corner and there appears to be a slight yaw variation at the top of the screen too. I've tried to correct it in service menu and it looks better, but still a little out of wack. I'm wondering if my ground on the above diagram I used would have caused it? Maybe RFI since I snipped the ferrite core off the SCART end of the VGA cable when I was wiring it (I've seen cables built with and without ferrite cores though)?

2. On boot, the EFI bios image scales correctly but some of the other console text before the Windows loading screen seems to be off-screen. Is this normal? It seems to snap into place (albeit, with text a little fuzzy) on the Windows 7 load screen.

3. A faint diagonal banding that rolls in the background that I assume is caused from the composite sync lazyness of using resistors instead of the circuit.

My journey starts now to correct the overscan and going through each of the modelines to get them to centre and work in GroovyMame. Most screenshots I've seen have the Windows desktop at 320x240 so should I be correcting in service menu from that resolution or the default 640x480?

[theAEoN]

Ran Avia through component dvd last night and did a calibration on color, sharpness, and brightness (PO set it way too high causing some deformation). Went into service menu and reset geometry values back to default (as per manual) and started calibrating from there, this is the best I could do:




The left side of the picture appears to sag down and there's no adjustment in service menu I can make to "rotate" or make yaw adjustments to the picture. Looks like the TV is getting opened up and I'll be adjusting from the yoke.

So it's looking like the cable is fine. Installed Groovymame and ran a test with Radiant Silvergun, SF2, and Bubble Bobble which looked fantastic (but still suffer from overscan issues).

Where would I start to adjust to fix that left side sagging on the image though?

[Battleship]

I realize this post is old but on this RGB/VGA convertor thats on that out of Country Ebay site, how do you order it?  Is there an equivalent now available in the states? Im in the process of using a 27" TV for my cab and this seems like a nice piece of hardware. Thanks.