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| Trying to choose buttons, joysticks and interfaces... |
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| shponglefan:
--- Quote from: paigeoliver on July 01, 2012, 01:57:20 am ---I don't understand why in the world you would need both a 2 player panel with 7 buttons and a 3 player panel with 6 buttons. 3 player titles are very rare, and none I am aware of use anything close to 6 buttons. It seems to me like those two panels could be combined. --- End quote --- no, no, it's 4 action buttons per player for the 3P, plus coin/start (6 total). Whereas, the 2P panel would have 7 action buttons + coin and start (9 total). I'm aware that 3-4 player games don't use more than 4 action buttons. --- Quote ---If your panel layout has 2.5 spare inches to the left of any joystick you can toss a Namco reunion 4-way stick in there wired up to be the same stick as the 8-way next to it and the entire need for the classic panel goes away in one fell swoop. --- End quote --- But I also want spinners on the 'classic' panel. The reality of building a 3 player panel including for 2 player fighting games with optional 4 way joystick and 2 spinners, in 3 feet or less... it would be the Frankenpanel to end all Frankenpanels... :P --- Quote ---Having built many machines I have found that swappable control panels are more trouble than they are worth. All the moving around of stuff invariably ends up breaking things over time. --- End quote --- That's something I have to consider. But the reality for the controls and options I want, I don't see any other way either having a giant Frakenpanel or individual panels. |
| shponglefan:
--- Quote from: BadMouth on July 01, 2012, 11:48:34 am ---To eliminate the joystick ID issues, consider unplugging the controls from the interface instead of unplugging the interface. I like the way Paul Olson did his wiring although you wouldn't have to take it as far for your setup: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=68892.0 --- End quote --- Looking through that thread, that's a pretty sweet idea using Cat5 cables. And I've a ton of them kicking around, too... hmmm, something to definitely consider. My main concern is trying to make switching panels as simple and painless as possible. I suppose Cat5 would be more challenging to wire up, but switching Cat5 cables vs USB cables doesn't sound too different at all. --- Quote ---I buy most of my stuff non-Japanese parts from GGG and have always been happy with them, but for this I think you'd be better off using something that can handle more inputs. Lono http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/mame-arcade-parts/359-lonotm-arcade-to-usb-20-controller-board.html or Ipac4 http://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html Personally, I'd lean toward the ipac4 because it shows up as a single keyboard and some of the oddball emulators I have only accept keyboard input. The U-HID might have enough inputs to squeak by with one device that can handle everything including spinners and LED outputs. It's got 50 inputs/outputs to work with. http://www.u-hid.com/home/index.php --- End quote --- I've looked into the Ipac's before, but haven't heard about the others. I'll have to read up on them. --- Quote ---I'm putting Seimitsu buttons in my new cab, but haven't had any playing time with them yet. The 24mm buttons were used as start buttons on original cabs. I bought some to use as admin buttons. I considered using them as the primary buttons so they could be closer together and easier to reach, but they're small enough that they look silly used in that capacity. --- End quote --- 30mm for action buttons it is. Thanks for the feedback. |
| paigeoliver:
Might want to consider a rotating panel or a double decker panel, to minimize the actual panel swapping. |
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