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Opinions on microswitches and soldering please
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ChadTower:

The biggest issue for me is that if I need 24 QDs I will always have 22 in stock.  Always.
TOK:
Nearly all of the original arcade games used soldered connections because it was cheaper and less of a chance of them getting accidentally popped off in shipping/service.

I've used quick disconnects on all 3 of my MAME cabs, and just don't think its an issue for home use. I built my original cab in around 2004, and its been moved multiple times and played for hundreds (if not thousands) of hours without ever having to mess with them.
nakeworks:
Ok, I'm set on soldering vs QD.

Can I get some ideas on switches?  Has anyone used the "Versa-Micro User-Adjustable Arcade Switch from Groovy Game Gear.  Sounds perfect but haven't heard much from anyone about it.   ???
Mysterioii:
Haha seems like most people here were advocating crimp on quick disconnects and one guy advocated soldering, so you picked soldering...   :lol   No offense to anyone intended, like I said it's really up to you, but I just though that was funny...

I haven't used those "user adjustable switches" but I think the "user adjustable" part means bending the tab?  And I think that's more an issue for joysticks where someone might want a shorter throw or something.  I may be wrong about that.  But really, the ones that come with the GGG buttons seem fine to me.
Mat:
My player buttons are GGG units with the standard microswitches (all black with"Zippy" on them).  I installed one in a Happ button for comparison.  They're definitely quieter than the Cherry units (mine are labeled KWJA0017).  Another difference is that the actuator on the microswitch is set further away from the button so there's more "take up" before you actually engage the switch.  The difference is minimal, but it's there.  Also, the switches are so light that it's difficult to tell when the transition from take up to actuation occurs.

What this means when compared to Ultimarc buttons, I don't know.  Hope it helps.

By the way, whether you solder or crimp, get a ratcheting wire stripper. 
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