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DAYTONA USA VR BUTTON SETUP. Model2 convert
PL1:
--- Quote from: mrcram on June 19, 2012, 03:55:38 pm ---Does anyone know what pin is what or do I need to get individual lighted pushbuttons?
--- End quote ---
Lower right corner of page 180 of the manual has the schematic.
http://www.tamdb.net/D/daytona_usa_special.pdf
Scott
MonMotha:
Just to clarify since people have been saying that there's a "common ground" for the lamps, that diagram would indicate that the lamps are low-side-switched. This is pretty typical. You supply a common power rail (+5V, according to the diagram) and the switch the return path to ground on/off for each lamp.
Handily for you, this is compatible with things like an LED-Wiz, Pac-Drive, etc.
(You can probably flip it around if you want to high-side switch it - just check that it won't hook anything up you don't expect)
mrcram:
You guys are awesome! Thank you so much!
RamjetR:
Hey,
I haven't got native VR panels on my cabinets since they were missing on my cab when I got it. So I just wired normal LED buttons on there to my pacdrive.
If you interested in lighting those VR buttons up however, you may want to check out my latest version of the RamjetVR Output emulator
www.speksnk.org/foro/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=74397&sid=49e0099453bae327b45277d02b89bb89&start=50#p593650
I haven't done a new video of this new version (since my cab doesn't have a Start button or Leader Lamps) but RetroRepair does and hopefully we'll get some nice videos up soon to show off.
Anyway, if you have a PacDrive this program will light those LED's correctly in Daytona, STCC, Indy500 Deluxe and Sega Rally.
If anyone has a LEDWiz and interested in helping me out with some testing for compatibility to their LEDWiz with my beta versions, I'd appreciate some testers since I don't actually have any LEDWiz gear.
Ramjet :)
esoteric_rt:
Hi,
Is anybody able to advise the easiest way to hook the button lamps up to a PC PSU?
I see there is a common 5V input at the end terminal, what to do with the other 5 (1 for each button)?
Got the switches themselves going OK via an A-Pac, so that side is sorted - just need to light them up now!
Thanks :)
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