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Drilling a Sega 5575 lock?
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JoeB:

--- Quote from: paigeoliver on June 16, 2012, 10:43:18 pm ---I am mostly into real games. Have 21 of them at the moment and have owned a couple hundred over the years and this is literally the first time I ever heard anyone say anything at all about unoriginal locks.

--- End quote ---

Hey .. no disrespect.. I understand that you've been a long time member of this community, but I wonder .. of the "couple hundred" that you owned, how many were candy cabs?  You see, on woody's, being picky with the lock is like being picky with the bolts that hold your monitor frame down -- who gives a $%#$ .. right?

But SEGA made only 2 locks for candy cabs: 5575 (which are typically found under the control panel, locking it down) and 5380 (used for main panel, coin mech door, and coin box door).  In both cases, Sega went out of their way to create a unique lock cylinder.  In addition, all the keys have a nice looking Sega logo carved into them.

I wouldn't be surprised that even in Japan all these locks are replaced with generic tubular locks.  But if you were to order a Sega candy cab for home use in Japan, you would get these 5575/5380 locks.

So OP.. you can drill the lock out, put generic tubular locks on, and treat your candy cab as a "survivor" -- proudly wear its scars/cigarette burns/yellowed bezels/dinged body/etc in your collection.  Or you can restore the body, restore the monitor, get new overlays, joysticks, and buttons and bring it back to show room condition.  Having the 5575/5380 locks + keys will complete the restoration.

I know all this sounds a bit anal .. but how different is that from people that want coin doors with Atari written on them, or look for a specific volano style button in a specific color? 

If these locks weren't that important for a restoration, they wouldn't be selling for 45$+ per lock/2 key set or 25$ + shipping for just the keys.  I know that most people on this forum focus on restoring or building new woody cabs (I was one of them with my first MAME machine back in 2003) But for those restoring candy cabs (more popular in Europe, Asia, and Australia) having original SEGA locks is very important.

(.. and yes, I did pay that much to get 3 sets of 5380 locks/keys to complete my Sega New Astro City restoration -- I already have 2 5575 locks + set of 2 keys)
paigeoliver:
The only candy cabinet I ever owned is a Super Neo 29, and boy do I miss it.
SavannahLion:

--- Quote from: lilshawn on June 17, 2012, 12:16:26 pm ---
--- Quote from: SavannahLion on June 17, 2012, 02:53:44 am ---Given the age and condition of the vast majority of power cords I've come across, replacing them isn't an option and is already budgeted accordingly. Even if I was doing a true restore, these power cords are rarely ever part of the equation.  Only time it was ever an issue was trying to find a suitable replacement for those cotton or silk woven cables. Most of those replacements are never duplicatable since the damn patterns seems to change almost monthly.

To put it more simply. I would rather shell out the cash to replace every power cord to every one of my cabs than to risk losing every single one of the cabs, and everything I own, in a fire.

--- End quote ---

properly fusing things prevents more fires than replacing cords.

i've seen far too much of this:



--- End quote ---

I've got my own horror stories about those damned :censored: rigged fuses. You have a perfectly valid point but no "properly fused cab" is going to do any good if the cord between wall socket and cabinet is nothing more than a twine of copper and a crumbling jacket. I'd rather take steps to avoid testing my fuses unnecesarily.

note: fixed glaring typo.
dgame:
Thanks for the advice everyone.

As stated in the first post I have ordered all new 5575 locks and keys.

So in the end it will still have authentic locks on it.

I've read where the coin box can be a different 5575 type key and this is why I posted the drilling question.

The coin box lock is the 5575 type so hopefully the same key will work.

The cabinet is in good shape so no prying the door open.

The other locks seem to have been accessed by loosening the locks from behind so the previous owner probably did not have the key.

The cabinet is a Bass Fishing/Blast City and it uses a regular PC power cord so I replaced the power cord with a new one.  :D


JoeB,

I have ordered all the parts to bring it back to near stock condition.

I have a clean 27" Wells D9200 tube already. Waiting for a working chassis to arrive.

I'm going with the stock 2L12B green/pink Blast City control panel but with two U360's for PC based emulation.

Project thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=120617.0
JoeB:
That's awesome ..

will be watching your thread.
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