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The Complete Noob's First Project Thread - (No Theme/Name yet...)
walterg74:
Let's not lose momentum or the next post will be in another month... :laugh2:
Continuing with the CP, decided to continue with the same printout I had used for the shoebox mockup.... Just went for it and marked the centers with a pencil, got this:
But of course there's always a problem... :banghead:
For the holes, I was using those spade bits or whatever they're called that Koening had used, but for the buttons, you need either 28mm or 30mm, and I only had 20mm and 25mm, and the next size up available in stores was 32mm (button goes right through).
I did have a 30mm *cupsaw* bit, but it was crap! don't know exactly how people use these, but it was all wobbly and the results would have been disastrous, and I certainly didn't wanna mess up my CP piece that I had worked so hard at so far...
What to do? Oh wait... didn't I just buy a Dremel 4000??? Hell yeah!!!! >:D
So... did all the holes in 25mm, like so:
Of course, buttons don't fit....
So with my trusty Dremel, and a little sanding drum (Grit 60 I think it is), it was just a matter of sticking the thing in the hole (that's what she said! ::) ) and just going round and round until the needed size was reached:
Awesome... :cheers:
Last thing I did was place the control loosely to trace the metal plaque on the bottom or "inside" of the CP like so:
And that's all I have done so far for the CP, which was this past weekend.
Pending:
- Make the holes on the corners for attaching the CP (with countersink of course ;) )
- Route the control part so that the metal plaque is "lifted" upwards and enough of the actual control peeps through the hole. For this, I bought a routing bit for the dremel, and since I also have the depth cutting guide I ought to be able to do a nice even leveling in.
***** Question for the experts ****: By the way, how much can I "eat off" the wood to allow the control to be raised as much as possible and yet leave enough for the screws to have something to hold on to and be sturdy??? The panel is 15 mm mdf. *********
Next post, something on the back panel.... brb... ;D
walterg74:
Ok, here we go... last project post for today (of actual work...).
Back panel...
I'm going to screw it like Koening did, but I really like the countersink thing, so I went for that in the corners like so:
The idea of ventilation he did I also liked, so I did the same in about the same place, only with 20mm holes instead of his I think it was 24mm. Looked good as far as I see:
Lastly, I also did another button sized hole at thetop left for power on:
Pending:
- Another hole for the female power plug. For this, I go an old PC power supply I will take that part off of (sadly I don't have anyplace I can just buy it separately...).
One thing I *didn't* do, was the big holes for the speakers.... It's not that I don't like how it looks (although for even considering that I'd have to think I'd actually be looking at the BACK of the cab instead of the front playing... ::) ), but I admit I've been back and forth on it. But the real reason is that he mentions that "a lot of tvs,lcds come with the speakers that way anyway"... I'm sorry but no... just no... ::) That just goes against every sound design guideline I can think of... Sound's supposed to be directed towards you, not away from you....
I even did a couple of tests with a laptop and a pair of speaker I bought for the cab, trying facing away from me, towards me but covered by the laptop screen, and a little to the side so the sound comes fully towards me, and without a shadow of a doubt, this last one was the best, and the sound seemed to come directly from the screen/game. Really great!
Only problem is I can't pull that off in this cab, just too small.... From behind the monitor but still facing towards the player it was still pretty good and sound seemed to be coming from the screen/game as well, so I think that's what I'm going to try to fit somehow...
These are the speakers by the way:
Nothing fancy but they sound real good and I don't need hundred dollar speakers to play 80's games... 8) I'll swear by these since the sound they bring out of my childhood favourites had excellent quality and really put me "in the game".
Buttons are blue, speakers were blue (though with my new placement they won't show), that was the idea, and maybe painting the cab black with some blue details and some nice artwork... and by the way, welcome to suggestions as to what you think a nice color or color/combo would be for this... Keep in mind I have those blue buttons, plus the white P1/P2 ones, and the controls are bat tops in black (although I can try to change the tops wich I think I might be able to get here).
Allright, next post regarding advance will be on the weekend I guess, hope to finish up these pending details so I can move on to the paint phase!!!
and speaking of that, I need some advice from the woodwork expertas again if possible, but that's in a small little post by itself coming up so as to not mix it!! :P
L8r
walterg74:
Ok... here's my question for the experts...
Since I hope to take care of the pending details this weekend (including those that you had suggested to "chop off" a little of the front squares so light can bleed through evenly to the marquee), I would (with luck) pass on to the paint phase...
So I know we talked about coats, and sanding, etc. but I just can't grasp how to start...
So can you complete my little mini-step-by-step of how I'd have to do it?
I start with my cab of MDF, so I would:
1) Sand first (?) with xx(?) grit until when? Till it looks smooth and even to me??
2) Put on a coat of primer (any particular color helps for coverage of paint later?) with? (brush/roller)?
3) Repeat one and two above? With a different grit? (which one)
4) Repeat again but instead of primer with the actual paint now? and again, recommended grit and brush or roller for the paint?
Wether brush or roller, any particular type I should ask for so I don't get a cheap-o that'll ruin the finish?
One last question, out of curiosity since I'm just beginning and probably won't try it for now, but it was mentioned that wet sanding was a good (if not the better) option for sanding.... the questions are:
1) You can't do that with an electric sander right? Just manually?
2) Does that apply to MDF too? I though water was a no-no for MDF making it swell up.. (I know wet sanding is not soaking wet, but still...)
Thanks for your help!!! :applaud:
Til next week or next replies whatever comes first! (hope it's the replies!! :laugh2: )
L8r. :cheers:
PL1:
First, start by reading and heeding the wiki and posts by Ond here and here and many others where he shares his wisdom and experience. :notworthy:
--- Quote from: walterg74 on September 03, 2012, 06:55:36 pm ---Wether brush or roller, any particular type I should ask for so I don't get a cheap-o that'll ruin the finish?
--- End quote ---
A foam roller should give you the desired finish, unless you are trying for high gloss.
--- Quote from: walterg74 on September 03, 2012, 06:55:36 pm ---2) Does that apply to MDF too? I though water was a no-no for MDF making it swell up.. (I know wet sanding is not soaking wet, but still...)
--- End quote ---
Water directly on bare MDF = bad.
Water on primer = OK.
Don't sand through the primer to bare MDF and you'll be OK.
Scott
Hockeyboy:
I love how you are going through and explaining and asking at the same time. Gives some of us some hints for potential "gotcha" moments.
Looking very nice so far - keep it up! :applaud:
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