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The Complete Noob's First Project Thread - (No Theme/Name yet...)
walterg74:
Wow! Lot's of good stuff/tips/etc. from everyone! Thanks @Mikeosoft, @Le Chuck and @GIZMOGAMES !!!
I'll try to add more info and reply to your follow up questions without quoting as to not make this too large/confusing:
First @Le Chuck:
Marquee panel...
Yes, you're right and I see what you mean. would this be important if it's gonna be black in that part anyway?If so, then yeah, I would probably have to do what you say, either with the chisel, or maybe with a small dremel-like tool? Don't know how Koenigs did it, since I followed his pics and they seem to be flush too... In anycase, for the lighting, I went ahead and bought several (about 10 so I have fo future builds ;) ) of those white led strips on UK ebay. Sent them to a colleague in the UK and I'll hopefully be meeting him in Switzerland in about two weeks for work, so great :)
Back panel.....
There is a slight space already, but honestly, I wasn't planning on putting hinges on it. I kinda agree with Koening's logic that I won't really be opening that up too often, so I was just planning on using 4 screws, although I don't want to just use standard screws but rather some of those metal shafts, etc, so that screwing/unscrewing (even if not often) doesn't wear out the wood and then you're screwed.. (no pun intended... :P )
Monitor issue...
Ok, took some pics, as follows...
So options...
1) Get a new monitor
2) Cut off that plastic (carefullly as to not destroy the controls)
3) Decasing like you say
Only problem for 3 is I don't know how.. Don't see any other screws besides those in the part that is "in the way"
Bezel...
Yeah, what you say about the ridge and support sounds good/more or less what I thought. I will look at your build for ideas, bu I guess you have to find the balance between support angle and to try that you can't see inside the cab and just the screen, right? I remember arcades being totally dark as what you saw if you looked inside/around the screen.
Control Panel...
Yes, so this will be made out of wood. I will try the shoebox idea, and also since this is small, I can print up to A3 size at work, I will try to print some layouts and see. I'm not too sure on mounting the plexiglass on it, wouldn't that make the buttons and joystick be raised even more? (opposite of what I need?)
I'll try to post a pic later of the joystick I have just in case. I guess for top mounting I would cut a big ass hole for the whole mechanism to pass through, and then I have to deal with covering up the plate.
I'll try to do one and post like you mentioned, to see what you guys think. The main difference is this is just a 1 player cab, and most of the ones I have sen are full size and two players.
Just so you know, the size of this one would be 370mm wide, and the depth, well the plans say 170mm, but I can make it a bit deeper if needed
And as buttons, as I commented, I want a joystick and 6 or 7 buttons, and then P1 start, P2 start, P1 coin, P2 coin, exit, pause. don't really know if it's worth adding a shift key for such a small build and so little funtions needed... Oh and I have a mini pac (with wiring harness).
Wheeeew...
Exhausting, but thanks for your long ass post!! Really appreciated!! ;D
Now @GIZMOGAMES:
More thanks for the encouragement!! So, I will google and probably find it, but just in case... what the hell is a "slagcoin" :)
Ok, so will try the spare wood/shoebox thing, and as written above, dimensions are 37cm wide, and 17cm deep (can make it more if needed for the depth).
Thanks guys!! Looking forward to your replies, and will print some layouts tomorrow at work hopefully, so I can try to make progress on the weekend :D
:cheers:
walterg74:
Two minor comments to add to the above...
1) for the CP, I have at my disposal either 12mm or 15mm MDF. Which would be best for this case? (Koenigs for some reason says 16mm, but I think for this small you could get away with 12mm?)
2) While I did say P1 coin + P2 coin, are there really many games that actually need you to insert the coin there for P2?? Off the top of my head I can only think of some like the multiplayers like x-Men, The simpsons, etc).
:cheers:
Le Chuck:
http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html
See the above link. Pick out ones that remind you of your childhood or something. Actually try a few and see what you like. That should get you rocking on CP layout. I would go with the 15mm MDF for added stability since that is where the rubber meets the road. Almost all games use a P2 coin, even games with turn based play action. Since yours is single player it is your call, you can just shift the P2 coin since it wont be used that much.
On your monitor I would wager that silver bezel should pop off the front revealing the screws that are keeping the black plastic connected. I think that decasing is the way to go to get you down to a workable shape and you'll have a better result than trying to hack away at the thing with a saw or something. Use a small flat head screw driver and start prying around the outside edges.
On the marquee it depends, if you are doing a foil appliqué to the opaque areas (masking) to prevent light transmission then no but if you aren't you'll be able to see darker squares.
Back panel, sounds good.
With a weecade type design the monitor angle is a big deal so you need to play around and find your sweet spots first before you glue anyting down since you don't have that deadspace that you have behind the glass in some larger units.
walterg74:
--- Quote from: Le Chuck on June 07, 2012, 10:36:37 pm ---http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html
See the above link. Pick out ones that remind you of your childhood or something. Actually try a few and see what you like. That should get you rocking on CP layout. I would go with the 15mm MDF for added stability since that is where the rubber meets the road. Almost all games use a P2 coin, even games with turn based play action. Since yours is single player it is your call, you can just shift the P2 coin since it wont be used that much.
On your monitor I would wager that silver bezel should pop off the front revealing the screws that are keeping the black plastic connected. I think that decasing is the way to go to get you down to a workable shape and you'll have a better result than trying to hack away at the thing with a saw or something. Use a small flat head screw driver and start prying around the outside edges.
On the marquee it depends, if you are doing a foil appliqué to the opaque areas (masking) to prevent light transmission then no but if you aren't you'll be able to see darker squares.
Back panel, sounds good.
With a weecade type design the monitor angle is a big deal so you need to play around and find your sweet spots first before you glue anyting down since you don't have that deadspace that you have behind the glass in some larger units.
--- End quote ---
Ok, so I went ahead and did the decasing...
Two issues...
1) while I was able to remove everything, that plastic "extension" or whatever, does not come off.. :( It's just part of the back casing...
2) While I could just simply not use it, how the heck am I supposed to hold this to themonitor playe?? The VESA screws actually fasten to the casing, so I don't see any way to attach this to the monitor wood panel (in an easy way).
Pics below. Maybe it would be best after all to just use a small hand saw and cut that part off? It would fit fine without that...
Regarding the marquee, not quite sure what you mean... I though I just had to print my design on opaque vynil, stick it on one of the acrylic plaques, put the other one on top and fasten... Am I missing something..?
One last thing, since besides the monitor issue I have to start sanding and painting... What is best to use? Brush? Roller? Both? (and use the same method for prime than for paint?). From what I read I should start sanding at something like 150 before priming, and then sand off the coats with 220 or something like that?
Thanks!! :applaud:
GIZMOGAMES:
--- Quote from: Le Chuck on June 07, 2012, 10:36:37 pm ---http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html
See the above link. Pick out ones that remind you of your childhood or something. Actually try a few and see what you like. That should get you rocking on CP layout. I would go with the 15mm MDF for added stability since that is where the rubber meets the road. Almost all games use a P2 coin, even games with turn based play action. Since yours is single player it is your call, you can just shift the P2 coin since it wont be used that much.
On your monitor I would wager that silver bezel should pop off the front revealing the screws that are keeping the black plastic connected. I think that decasing is the way to go to get you down to a workable shape and you'll have a better result than trying to hack away at the thing with a saw or something. Use a small flat head screw driver and start prying around the outside edges.
On the marquee it depends, if you are doing a foil appliqué to the opaque areas (masking) to prevent light transmission then no but if you aren't you'll be able to see darker squares.
Back panel, sounds good.
With a weecade type design the monitor angle is a big deal so you need to play around and find your sweet spots first before you glue anyting down since you don't have that deadspace that you have behind the glass in some larger units.
--- End quote ---
lol what He said :)
Painting go with foam roller and a small hard sponge possibly small brush for edges and such :)
Remember when painting that its better to do many thin coats than few thick coats :) thinner coats are easier to maintain inbetween for sanding and evening out and take a lot less time between coats to dry :)
ide suggest 10 coats minimum
1 primer/ 2 undercoat /5 main coats sanding between coats/ and im sure 2 finnish coats so maybe 10 total to have a very resistent paintjob :)
take a look at bellas arcade for paint top tips :)
and great work bud keep it up :)
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