Main > Driving & Racing Cabinets
what servo amp for happ hack?
BadMouth:
I think this is the one I have (didn't get it from this seller):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-to-DC-24V-15A-Regulated-Switching-Power-Converter-Supply-for-LED-Strip-Light-/180853373790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1bb37b5e
6AMP is probably enough. My motor says 6.3A on the side, but you won't be using anywhere near the motor's full force.
Different motors were used in the Happ systems over the years, so your motor may be different.
Most of the motors have a higher voltage written on them, anywhere from 37-90V,
but they were originally ran in the arcade machine at 24V and that's what we're using.
Brian74:
So wiring the sega shifter? It only has 3 switches? How do I make this work? There is also a lot of slop when moving he shifter up and down while in neutral. Anyway to tighten thigs up?
BadMouth:
--- Quote from: Brian74 on May 28, 2012, 04:28:44 pm ---So wiring the sega shifter? It only has 3 switches? How do I make this work? There is also a lot of slop when moving he shifter up and down while in neutral. Anyway to tighten thigs up?
--- End quote ---
Here's how to make do with 3 switches, but you'll have to install a toggle switch somewhere to disconnect them because it will always register a gear press and that will mess you up when mapping your controls:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=106709.0
I added a 4th switch to the front, but don't go by my wiring of this because I have it hacked to a Logitech MOMO, which works kinda weird.
You'll have to use your logic-fu to figure out the wiring for your setup if you go this route, but it is possible. :P
Model 2 and Supermodel emulators can be made to recognize neutral when no gear switches are pressed, so I'd add the 4th switch for the sake of having it behave the same as the original arcade game.
Not sure what to tell you about the slop while in neutral. That's kinda just how it is.
You could try to modify it to make the wheels that the shifter rides against closer together, but then it might be loose while in gear.
To make it harder to shift into gear and stay in gear, there are rubber pads behind a bump-out on the side opposite the switch.
Those wear out over time. Not sure where to get replacements, but you can wedge something behind them to make them tighter.
Brian74:
I got it wired up. It shows all the shifts when i go threw the gears. When it is in neutral, it shows that button 6 is being pushed. So where do I hook up the toggle switch at?
BadMouth:
--- Quote from: Brian74 on May 28, 2012, 10:00:35 pm ---I got it wired up. It shows all the shifts when i go threw the gears. When it is in neutral, it shows that button 6 is being pushed. So where do I hook up the toggle switch at?
--- End quote ---
In line with the ground wire going to the shifter, so when switched off, nothing will be grounded and no buttons will register.
It doesn't have to be a toggle. You could use a button and go through the NC connector, so it disconnects when you hold the button.
Flip it off when you are mapping other buttons and flip it on when you are done.
You might want to make button 6 first gear when you map everything.
That way, it's at least in first instead of some other gear when it's not physically in gear.
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