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| Mysterioii:
Doing a bit more research it seems like people generally recommend routers that take a 1/2" bit? The one I have at home is a Ryobi 1/4" router but it's never been out of the box, so I'm sure Home Depot would give me store credit for it if I decided to take it back. The 80-piece set on ebay that I linked to is all 1/4" bits but the joining bit sets are 1/2". Harbor Freight has a 2.5HP 1/2" plunge router for only $30 more than the 1.5HP 1/4" Ryobi (and it comes with collet adapters for 1/4" and 3/8"...) Would that be a better way to go? (I know Harbor Freight has a bit of a reputation as being cheaper for a reason, i.e. good for "light duty", "occasional use" tools, but that's pretty much all I need right now. |
| GregD:
In my experience, all routers that accept 1/2" shanks also come with a 1/4" adapter. What are you looking to do with the router? What type of joinery are you looking to accomplish. There are certain things that should not be done with a handheld router. For most joinery, you will need to table mount it. For dovetails with a jig, a 1/4" shanked bit is fine. Larger bits like panel raising sets need to be done in a table and at a lower speed so a variable speed router is essential. |
| Mysterioii:
--- Quote from: GregD on April 11, 2012, 02:03:42 pm ---In my experience, all routers that accept 1/2" shanks also come with a 1/4" adapter. What are you looking to do with the router? What type of joinery are you looking to accomplish. There are certain things that should not be done with a handheld router. For most joinery, you will need to table mount it. For dovetails with a jig, a 1/4" shanked bit is fine. Larger bits like panel raising sets need to be done in a table and at a lower speed so a variable speed router is essential. --- End quote --- Actually that's a good point, it's all kind of TBD really. I'd like to try my hand at some really simple low bookcases and toy chests for my little girl, maybe put together a new control panel for myself, do the edge slots for T-molding. Would I build a full size arcade cabinet from scratch? Maybe some day but not just yet, I've got a kit cab now that I'm looking to improve upon and I'd have to start small and hone some basic skills before tackling something big. I've got a biscuit cutter and have done some doweling too so I could put together some basic boxes without the advanced joining, but I just came across those bit sets on ebay and it got me thinking. So, why exactly would you say that you have to use a router table for joinery? I was just contemplating earlier today if I really needed a router table or not. Assuming I've already got my edges cut straight, isn't the whole point of a handheld router that you can go around the edge perfectly and the bearing keeps you lined up dead on? How does the table really improve on that? I can see ease-of-use but how does it actually improve upon a bearing and base plate physically preventing you from moving the bit further into the wood? Of course, I've never used one before so I'm probably oversimplifying... I really am curious to hear your thoughts. |
| GregD:
Depends on the type of joint. If your are doing simple half lap joints then a handheld router would be fine. If your are doing finger joints then you need a table. Dovetails can be done with a handheld router and a jig. That said, you can make a router table really easily. I have mine mounted as a wing in my cabinet table saw. |
| JayB:
Mine came with a handful of bits but, none were long enough for 1/4" MDF. I paid a couple of quid for the bit I needed to see if I got on with it before spending any more. Seems to be ok so far. Finished cutting the pieces I needed for my desk about 4pm and had a load of left overs and idle hands...so started making a mini cab. I don't even need one :lol Nearly built, just need to drill the button holes. |
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