NEO GEO Evolution (EVS-1) - Experimenting with DIY trackball

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BadMouth:

--- Quote from: Malenko on May 05, 2012, 07:58:56 pm ---Im just not feelin the pitbull :/ Why not the 100Meg shock face?

--- End quote ---

I like the pitbull....and the button layout.
Wait until you see the CP. ;)

I got the shell together less a couple angled panels that I don't feel like doing tonight.

That is one skinny marquee (lit area 4" x 30.5"), but I like the way it looks from the side.

I didn't stop to take any pictures (I'm a bad example anyway).
I went with these levelers instead of casters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/270932581070?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Not a bad deal for a dozen. I do wish the plate would have been bigger.

To compensate for the base plate being small, I angled them in the corners and added some extra bracing.

The panel opposite the coin mechs is on a piano hinge. It will flip out and have the PSU, mobo, etc mounted on it.
The original coin box is pretty deep, so things might have to be arranged around it.
This panel and the removing the bezel will be the only way to get inside the cab, but between both of them, I can access every part.

I can't add too many more panels to the cab until I get the rotating mech for the monitor done.
The monitor will be set as deep as possible to get some distance from the screen

Santoro:
I like the profile of that cab, nice design!

BadMouth:
Finished up the angled cuts today.

Did a good job on the front......

And a crappy job on the back...followed by bondoglass :lol

The only panels left to cut are the speaker panel and the area behind the CP, but those can't be done until I know where the monitor will sit.
To be honest, at this point I don't even know what the CP will be shaped like yet. ;)

I made some progress on the rotating mech. I came across an aluminum disc on ebay that was the exact diameter of the bearing, but it was 3/4" thick. :-\ The price was right, so I went ahead and ordered it figuring it must be desitiny. No such luck. The thing just adds too much uneccesary weight. I wandered around Lowes looking for a piece of metal big enough and strong enough and came across a $3 plate meant to prevent you from driving nails into pipes or wiring. My original template had the monitor holes offset 45 degrees from the lazy susan bearing holes. This plate wasn't wide enough for that, so I had to line them up. After some trimming and drilling:

The mounting plate, bearing, and bracket...with nuts and washers between each level for clearance.
(The inner and outer rings of the lazy susan bearing are flush with each other)
It took a bit of trial and error to find the right length of bolts, etc.
The fact that some of my monitor bolts were located behind the bearing complicated things also.

I was also on the lookout for something to use as a bracket for the actuator.
I found some square box aluminum stock with an inner diameter that was just a little wider than the actuator arm.
I still need to round the edges where it meets the arm and drill a hole for the pin, but here is the general idea.
The entire assembly is less than 3" thick, including the actuator.

I did some testing with the actuator (with no load) and it took 3-4 seconds between the built in limit switches.
That's the speed of rotation that I was shooting for anyway, so I'm going to try to set the length of the arm so that it stops at the perfect positions with the built in switches. According to my calculations, wich are always suspect, the arm needs to be 4.25" which is about what is is in the picture.
This is all working out pretty close to my original design. The only issue I foresee is that the other end of the actuator is within an inch of the side of the cab. It's not in any danger of hitting the side, but it is going to interfere with the way I had planned on mounting the bracket.

I had an unusual amount of free time this weekend to work on this.
Progress will slow down from here on out, but I plan to finish the rotation mech on Tuesday.

EDIT: I was looking at the last picture and thinking about how to incorporate limit switches if I had to.
The piece of aluminum going to the actuator could extend to the opposite side with the switches mounted to the main bracket.
Things would still be compact and simple. :)

DaOld Man:
Good build man! I like your attention to detail, I could use some of that, got any to spare?

I am amazed at how far the rotating monitor science has come since I first made my clunky & slow CRT rotation.
Following this post closely..

TopJimmyCooks:
Are you sure with that geometry and the stroke of the linac that you're going to be able to get 90 degrees? It looks close but it's probably just the angle of the pics I'm seeing.

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