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Author Topic: Magneto cab [done] [build plans included]  (Read 36409 times)

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edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #80 on: November 15, 2012, 02:18:17 am »
Well the postman tried to deliver the side art twice this week. And as usual I was @work. So now I can pick it up from the postal office, which is only open from when I'm @work. :banghead: So I'll just have to wait till saturday before I can pick it up. Man I'm really hate to wait any longer, as I'm so excited to see how it turned out ;D

Would it make sense to slightly sand the sides before applying the side art?

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #81 on: November 21, 2012, 03:31:34 pm »
Side art applied! Applying it was harder than I had anticipated though. On the first side I initially peeled away to much of the backing. It then accidentally touched the cabinet and was immediately stuck to it. When I pulled it loose, some tiny pieces of the paint layers also came loose. There was no way of getting that off the side art, so I just left it. So now there are a few small bumps underneath the side art at the bottom on one side. But these are only really visible when sunlight hits the surface a steep angle, which never really happens in my room.
Afterwards I cut off the excess vinyl with an sharp razor, and used a router to try and to make the side art flush with the cabinet. This did not workout though, as the router did not seem to be removing anything. Instead I retraced the sides with a sharp razor blade held at a slight angle. When I was happy with the results I installed the black t-molding. I used a normal small hammer wrapped in several socks for this. This did scratch the t-molding, but that only became apparent the next morning when I actually had some sunlight to work with. Oh well, live and learn I guess.

Next up was applying the carbon fiber vinyl to the lower front of the cabinet. Applying it was a b*&%$! The adhesion nowhere matches that of the side art. When heated and stretched, it just pulls itself loose again when it cools down and regained its original shape. Especially the part where the vinyl is wrapped inside the hole for the volume control was a pain to do, as it would just not stick. In the end I heated it a lot, then folded it around the edge of the hole, and quickly jammed the volume control in there. After securing it, I hoped it would keep the vinyl in place. The next day showed the vinyl had come loose a bit. But you really need to get on you knees and look very closely to be able to spot it. Still I'm not applying any more carbon fiber vinyl until this piece stays into place for a few weeks.

Oh I also installed the two usb ports, coin door, and glued on the kick plate with some epoxy glue. Overall I'm very happy with the results :applaud: The pictures really don't do it justice; especially how the light reacts with the carbon fiber vinyl is impossible for me to record using a flash.

TheShaner

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #82 on: November 21, 2012, 03:37:20 pm »
Very Nice!  :applaud:

HaRuMaN

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #83 on: November 21, 2012, 03:44:50 pm »
Are the Xmen and Capcom logos supposed to be backwards?

TheShaner

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #84 on: November 21, 2012, 03:53:06 pm »
Wow, that is funny, I totally didnt register that.  I bet they are correct on the other side!

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #85 on: November 21, 2012, 04:30:50 pm »
Yes one side is readable, and the other is mirrored. The reason being that I did not like how the image looked non mirrored. I really wanted to see his "power" hand on both sides. Personally it does not bother me the text is backwards, as the text is already incomplete anyway.

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #86 on: November 25, 2012, 02:35:42 pm »
Another update!

I covered the lower removable panel from the back with carbon fiber vinyl, and attached the metal grill (spray painted matte black). Then I applied some more vinyl to the lowest panel on the back. I also mounted a master/slave power strip, power plug and Ethernet pass-though port. The first time I ever crimped a wire and used heat-shrink tubing ;D For those interested, I bought a knipex 97 21 215 B crimping tool, which can be used to crimp non-insulated open plug-type connectors. It produced perfect crimps without any trouble.

fighterfanatic

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #87 on: November 25, 2012, 08:17:40 pm »
Love the full side art.  :applaud:

Acids

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #88 on: November 26, 2012, 02:12:41 am »
Another update!

I covered the lower removable panel from the back with carbon fiber vinyl, and attached the metal grill (spray painted matte black).

where did you get the vinyl from??

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #89 on: November 26, 2012, 02:32:05 am »
where did you get the vinyl from??

I got the carbon vinyl from a dutch webshop: www.premiumvinyls.nl/.

PL1

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #90 on: November 26, 2012, 03:38:58 am »
where did you get the vinyl from??

Griffindodd used a similar "3M 1080 3D Vinyl" carbon fiber patterned vinyl in his Revolution build here, in case you are looking for a state-side supplier.


Scott

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #91 on: November 26, 2012, 03:57:38 am »
I have seen several short clips about that 3M vinyl, where they multiple times: heat it, stretch it, push it on, pull it loose, etc. It looks like really awesome stuff. However, from my experience you can heat it and stretch it, but as soon as it cools down, it will try to regain its original shape and form. That usually means it just pulls itself loose again :(. Now that might be because my vinyl is of lower quality than the 3M stuff, or that it just does not stick well enough to painted wood (the stuff I have is actually meant to go on cars :))

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #92 on: December 10, 2012, 02:53:40 pm »
I applied more vinyl to the cab. This time to the center back panel and the top panel. I also tried to apply it to the top removable panel, but I screwed up big time. I somehow managed to get the paper side of the vinyl backing onto the last 10 cm of the adhesive side of the vinyl. And when paper hits that adhesive, its all over. What's even worse is that I had run out of vinyl, so I had to order again. Still waiting :( For anybody else ordering 3d carbon fiber vinyl: order twice as much as you think you will need! I did not take into account that the vinyl has a print. So when cutting two pieces, you need to make sure the direction of the print will match up.

I also installed the speakers, monitor, and bezel. I needed to sand off all the paint from the sides of the bezel as it just would not fit. One final thing I did was spray paint the M6 rings and bolts holding the removable back panels black. That way they blend in with the rest of all the other black goodness.

Its finally starting too look like a proper cab, and I'm getting more and more exited with each little bit of progress I make.

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #93 on: December 29, 2012, 01:46:11 pm »
I bought some PC parts:
  • CPU:     i5-3570K
  • Mobo:   Asrock B75 Pro3-M
  • RAM:    8GB Corsair Vengence (low profile, 1600Mhz)
  • Cooler: Scythe Nugen 3 PCGH
  • SSD:    128GB Samsung 830
  • PSU:    Seasonic G-550 (modular,  80 Plus Gold)

I mounted the parts into the cab and wired everything, including the Edifier 2.1 audio set and coin door. I then realized I still needed a 2-pin header cable to connect the motherboard to the power button :banghead: I ordered a bunch of them online and in the mean time I'll just assume that all my untested wiring is flawless ;)

The SSD came packaged in a very sturdy plastic holder. As it takes quite some force to remove the SSD from this holder, I decided to just mount this holder directly in the cab -> worked great :applaud:

floriske.nl

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #94 on: December 29, 2012, 02:36:36 pm »
Wow!

Didn't see this build before and I must say it looks very clean, professional and well crafted!  :applaud: :applaud:

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #95 on: January 03, 2013, 03:40:18 pm »
Didn't see this build before and I must say it looks very clean, professional and well crafted!  :applaud: :applaud:

Bedankt!


A while ago I received some stuff:
-LedWiz
-KeyWiz
-RetroVga2
-GGG ChromaLite Illuminated Pushbutton (red + blue, and Premium Groovy-Micro™ Soft-Touch + Micro-Leaf microswitch)
-IL Clear, IL Black (cherry miscroswitch)
-Seimitsu PS-14-KN (red, purple, smoke)
-Seimitsu Balltop (red, purple, smoke)

The chrome buttons look really amazing, are super easy to setup, and light-up great. The only downside is that they feel very heavy, requiring too much force to push down. I also found the Soft-Touch switch to be very loud. The micro-leaf on the other hand is near silent. Unfortunately, they do not go well with the ChromaLite. They sit very loose and any lateral stress on the wire will result in the switch being yanked out of place, causing it to be permanently pressed.

With the IL buttons I tried to create the effect that Nephasth achieved on his excellent Two-Headed beast (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=108719.0). I found my clear button to be rather yellowy, so I did not like it when unlit. The button itself seemed to feel pretty good though.

The Seimitsu buttons have a very different feel: less force required, quieter. I really like them the best. They also look pretty good, except for the red plunger color. The balltops on the other hand look and feel very cheap. The color is great, but there's this big ugly seam, and a very annoying dimple at the top.

Having decided on the Seimitsu buttons, I wanted to know how they look with leds. Since I have no Uila leds (sold out) or Pele leds (too expensive) I just removed the switch and used a Philips led lamp. It looked pretty awefull, as the cross shape of the bottom of the plunger becomes clearly visible (See here for details: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121965.msg1320603.html#msg1320603). I tried various thing to remedy this, but in the end decided on just spray painting the top of the plunger black. This results in a nice ring lighting effect, which looks great. One final note about the purple button, depending on the color of the light they might up blue!

So I ordered 14x red PS-14-KN Seimitsu buttons, 2 Sanwa JLW joysticks and some red and black Sanwa balltops. Hopefully the Sanwa balltops will be of better quality. I also wanted to buy a bunch of UILA leds, but they are sold out at both ParadiseArcadeShop and FocusAttack, grrr.

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #96 on: January 19, 2013, 08:22:51 am »
And here is my first attempt at a marque and CPO. I tried to keep the CPO simple, with just some lines and gradients. In the last pick I added the controls. Note that the buttons will be ring-lit using leds. Let me know what you think!
« Last Edit: January 19, 2013, 08:26:12 am by edekoning »

Jumpman64

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #97 on: January 19, 2013, 10:10:48 am »
Very nice.  I do feel like the CPO could use something in the center.  Perhaps a simple outline drawing of his helmet, or the x-men "x inside a circle" emblem?

Felsir

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #98 on: January 20, 2013, 11:21:38 am »
Agreed. The plain black is a bit too plain. Perhaps a pattern of scratched metal or sheets of metal, recolored in dark red/purple hues?

I really like the colors of the buttons by the way. Especially the extra smoked grays, I haven't seen that one before. Really cool.


edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #99 on: January 22, 2013, 03:13:29 pm »
Thanks for the feedback, I'll see what I can do. It might take some time though as its crunch time at work :(

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #100 on: January 26, 2013, 10:02:07 am »
How about this?

Felsir

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #101 on: January 26, 2013, 11:06:20 am »
Yep, that works!


Jumpman64

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #102 on: January 27, 2013, 05:31:57 pm »
Me like.

DaOld Man

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #103 on: January 27, 2013, 05:42:15 pm »
Me like too!

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #104 on: February 09, 2013, 07:46:04 am »
Before sending it to Game on Grafix, I have a small question. My CP will be 68x28 cm, so should I make the CPO that exact same size, or should I add a bit of black background making it slightly larger, say 70x30cm? I have not yet cut the CP, as I am planning to order a drill-template, and use that as a guide to cut the front curve.

In the mean time I spray painted all button plungers, and drilled small holes in each button for the led wiring. Unfortunately, ParadiseArcade does not expect to have the Uila leds in stock for at least another month.

rablack97

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #105 on: February 09, 2013, 10:22:31 am »
Rule of thumb, always makes your graphic a little larger and trim...If it's too small then your screwed.

Man, as clean as the rest of this build is, I am highly surprised you cut corners on that side art.  You could have tossed your idea out to the forum and somebody would have crafted you something in photoshop.  Forum is full of art and graphics guys.

Capcom could have been centered at the bottom and x-men the right way..........

I love this build, very very clean, just not sure why you weren't as thorough with the most visual part of the cab....

Griffindodd might have had something similar already laid out and could have modified it.....

 :cheers:

   

2016 Texas Pinball Festival - Best Arcade In Show - MKX

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #106 on: April 27, 2013, 08:17:59 am »
Well personally I don't mind that the text is cutoff not-centered, but the mirrored text is pretty lame. I initially planned to not mirror the image and just show Magneto's other side/shoulder/arm. But then my wife suddenly became very vocal, and insisted I did mirror it. She really wanted to see his raised hand on both sides. Oh well.

Anyway its finally not freezing anymore, so I was able to start working on the control panel :applaud:

I taped the drill-template to the MDF and then used a jigsaw to cut out the curve at the front. I then drilled a hole using a frostner-bit in a spare piece of MDF. Using my router I copied this hole x times onto the CP. The reason for using the router was that my hand-drill is oddly shaped, so I am never sure about the angle at which I am actually drilling. Using the router sure took longer, but I was able to precisely position each hole this way. Next step was to router away some space at the back for the buttons and joysticks, and cut the t-molding slot.
For attaching the JLWs I opted for M5 T-nuts. As they needed to be placed exactly, I used my router with a regular 6mm drill bit. This worked great and the holes ended up exactly where I wanted them and they went straight down 8). Since the top of a T-nut is about 1mm thick, I routed about 2mm away fromt he top of the CP, so I could easily cover up the T-nuts with MDF filler. Lastly I painted both side of the CP black.

Its really amazes me how versatile a router is, I'm practically using it for everything!

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #107 on: April 27, 2013, 01:42:59 pm »
More CP work! Added CPO, t-molding, buttons, and joysticks. No wiring yet though. In case you are wondering why I used two different balltops, its because I bought several different ones (one of each). I really like the color of the red bubble top (Seimitsu), although it has a very visible/feelable seam. I know that Paradise Arcade carries a red bubble top without seam, so I will be ordering those whenever those blasted Uila leds are back in stock. The CP will be held in place by use of three magnets (the ones used on furniture). These magnets are pretty strong (6KG a piece), so the CP will not be going anywhere while playing.

At this point I am really tempted to just start wiring the CP without waiting for those Uila leds. However, that would mean that when I do have the Uilas, I will need to unwire each button, take it out of the CP, insert led, put it back in the CP, and rewire everything. Needless to say it would be much easier to just wire everything including leds in one go. Oh well, I still have the marquee area to do.
« Last Edit: April 27, 2013, 01:45:19 pm by edekoning »

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #108 on: April 27, 2013, 01:56:54 pm »
I had some 2 unused Philips led lights lying around, that seemed like a good choice for behind the marquee. The good thing about these lights is that I could just screw them to the cab, and they can be tilted up or down. This means that by varying their angle I can easily control how much light will hit the marquee.

They also have a regular power plug, so I could just plug them in the smart power strip, and they will turn off/on when the PC does.

I got my marquee pre-installed (GameOnGrafix) to a piece of plexiglass. However, I expected it to be installed under the plexiglass. Instead it was glued on top of the plexiglass (the plexi is hidden behind the image). Can I use this as is, or do I need to put another piece of plexi in front of it? Just by holding the marquee roughly in place, I noticed a lot of light bleeding at the sides. What's the best way to remedy this?

sabreerbasAlpha

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #109 on: April 27, 2013, 06:10:52 pm »
In terms of Skill, The look and the design. And the fact it was of the sharpest cabs ive seen for a long time. This is without a doubt Killa. If you ever want to sell it. Please message me. I would buy that thing right now...!!! :notworthy:

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #110 on: April 28, 2013, 04:06:24 am »
In terms of Skill, The look and the design. And the fact it was of the sharpest cabs ive seen for a long time. This is without a doubt Killa. If you ever want to sell it. Please message me. I would buy that thing right now...!!! :notworthy:

Tnx, but I'm building this to be a keeper :) Anyway, I will be releasing the building plans, so you could just build it yourself :P

sabreerbasAlpha

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #111 on: April 28, 2013, 06:05:08 pm »
In terms of Skill, The look and the design. And the fact it was of the sharpest cabs ive seen for a long time. This is without a doubt Killa. If you ever want to sell it. Please message me. I would buy that thing right now...!!! :notworthy:

Tnx, but I'm building this to be a keeper :) Anyway, I will be releasing the building plans, so you could just build it yourself :P

Cant wait, Its mint honestly. Its one of the best I've seen for a while. You have some real skill with the tools.  :applaud:

Tonza

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #112 on: May 02, 2013, 04:27:16 am »
Nice cab!

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #113 on: May 25, 2013, 08:19:32 am »
Nice cab!

Tnx!

I made a simple 1920x1200 mala layout in the same style as the CPO, that I am quite pleased with. The left shows the current game list, the right shows the current game's title screen, which is replaced by a video after 1 second. The bottom shows some general information about the current game: controls, #buttons, #players, resolution etc.

Since I am using a 120GB SSD I can't just copy over a full MAME rom set. So I needed to reduce the size of my 145 set. I tried using RomLister for that, but that just did not work out for various reasons:
  • I created a merged mame.xml file, but the output file appeared to be invalid XML as it contained illegal characters. Apparently RomLister just replaces escaped characters, such as &lt;, with their non-escaped form < -> oops
  • I also wanted to remove all game information for roms that I do not have from the mame.xml file. RomLister has a function for that, but after waiting for 90 minutes for it to complete I just gave up on it.
  • Searching is just incredibly slow. I have a relatively old PC with slow disk IO, and it just seems as if RomnLister parser the entire 90MB xml file every time I do a search. I just did not have the patience for that.
Instead I just wrote a few Python scripts:
  • mame_xmlcleaner.py - Makes a copy of mame.xml that is stripped of all information about non-existing roms.
  • mame_xml2csv.py - Outputs game information from the mame.xml file in csv format. Also uses catver.ini, nplayers.ini, controls.ini if available. The main purpose of this script is to allow for fast game searching and filtering using your spreadsheet program of choice (f.e. Excel). The script is setup in such a way that it can be easily changed to collect only that data that you are interested in.
  • mame_filemgr.py - Copy / move / delete roms and related files (as in chds, snaps, videos, etc). Only those files that correspond to roms listed in an input file are processed. This list can be a CSV file as generated by mame_xml2csv.py, or a 'rom names only' list as generated by Romlister.
These worked great and I ended up with a rom set of around 23GB :) If anybody is interested I can make these scripts available, after I clean them up a bit.

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #114 on: May 28, 2013, 02:21:25 pm »
I promised I would provide release the building plans, so here they are!

You'll need to open the file in Google SketchUp. All measurements can then be obtained via the 'Tape Measure Tool'.

If you have any questions about it, just let me know.


On a different note: I've been waiting for more than 5 months now, to be able to buy Uila leds for the Seimitsu buttons at ParadiseArcade. Communication with them has been rather one directional. I'm going to give it one more try this week to get some kind of ETA from them for when the Uila's will be restocked. If that fails, I'm just gonna go forward without leds :cry:
« Last Edit: March 29, 2016, 02:20:46 pm by edekoning »

keilmillerjr

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #115 on: June 09, 2013, 08:44:01 pm »
The carbon fiber vinyl looks awesome!

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #116 on: June 12, 2013, 03:23:03 pm »
The carbon fiber vinyl looks awesome!

I agree too bad most of it is on the back where its not very visible ;D


Finally I mounted the marquee :applaud: I kept postponing it, because I was unsure of what type of marquee retainer to use. I browsed several local shops, and could only find the standard aluminium L-brackets. So in the end I just bought few 1m strips (20mm x 15mm x 2mm). As the speaker panel is at an angle, I tried bending the aluminium, but that went nowhere. However, I found the angle of the marquee retainer is not that noticeable (see pictures). After spraying the retainer black, I glued the bottom one using epoxy glue. This was kinda tricky to do as I did not have that much area to work with, and could not use clamps to hold it in place. The top part is fastened with two screws, so I can easily remove it. The end result is really nice, as there are no visible screws! Well there are at the top, but you need to be at least 1.90m tall to be able to see them.
After doing a test fit I noticed lots of light bleeding along the sides. I decided cutting strips from some spare parts of the aluminium brackets, and attach these to the sides up against the plexiglass. I also sprayed these black, so the picture I took is not that clear. This did reduce the light bleeding but did not eliminate it. That's when I finally realized that the some light runs through the plexiglass and exits at the sides. So I took a black permanent marker and colored the sides of the plexiglass with it. All lightbleeding was now gone 8)

The only things left to do are:
-buy another red bubble top
-buy uila leds @ paradisearcadeshop*
-wire controls
-fine tune software
-enjoy a job well done

*This is proving extremely difficult, but supposedly they will be restocked this week. But they said that multiple times in the past 5 months as well :( I am gonna wait 10 more days, and then I'll just go with a led-less panel.

Le Chuck

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #117 on: June 13, 2013, 07:50:00 pm »
Marquee lookin' sweet, nice clean lines

edekoning

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Re: Magneto cab
« Reply #118 on: June 16, 2013, 07:59:09 am »
Marquee lookin' sweet, nice clean lines

The text/font comes from an old comic I had laying around, which I then copied in InkScape.


I was finally able to order the Uila leds!!! After waiting this long I didn't even care about the $60 shipping cost. Now I can't wait for the leds to arrive so I can finish this cab  :D
« Last Edit: June 16, 2013, 10:58:42 am by edekoning »

mgb

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Magneto cab
« Reply #119 on: June 16, 2013, 09:44:53 am »
Awesome job.
   This cabinet looks great.

  
 

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