Working with Plastics

Main > Woodworking

<< < (4/9) > >>

PL1:

--- Quote from: selfie on March 28, 2012, 09:19:04 pm ---NEVER USE SUPERGLUE. It will cloud and craze the acrylic and not bond well.
--- End quote ---

I'm thinking about gluing inserts printed on .004" thick clear inkjet transparency media to the diffuser disc and gluing the diffuser to the plunger on my Paradise Arcade LED admin buttons to keep them from turning during button presses.

Any idea what adhesive(s) would be suited to these materials?

Would Weld-On 16 or even superglue be OK because of the optical properties of the diffuser?

Scott

Azure:
What tools do you suggest for beginners? I'm keen on working in lexan/acrylic/plastics and would like to have what will help me start out right.

Thanks for creating a cool thread:)

Billy_Goatfeet:

Thanks for a very informative guide! The timing is perfect as I am about to cut the acrylic for my control panel! :cheers:

selfie:
Sorry for the delay I've been away from the forum for awhile.

Scott - I would steer clear of the weld-on for this application. It's too thick and you'll probably find the solvents in it will destroy the printed ink. Superglue is the way to go BUT you will find that it we probably go cloudy. Use the tiniest amount as possible and glue only on the edge to tack the acetate(transparency) in place. Remembering that capillary action will draw more glue in between the two surfaces.
The safest way to go would be to cut the transparency slightly larger than the plunger so that they are wedged in place rather than being bonded in place.

Azure - What are you looking to do? You can achieve a lot with a score and snap knife, a hacksaw, a jig saw, hot air gun and a router, even a small laminate trimmer is good for acrylic. Spade bits or hole saws are a good way to go for bigger holes.

TopJimmyCooks:
I love your Anytime sports sign that is black during the day and lights up white at night. Good work sign man!

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version