Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis'

[Ond]

here tis:



Still a work in progress, but getting there, the other side of the cab will be 'Maria' same pose.

See page 1 of this thread for a look at the art on the left side panel of the cab design.

[AlienInferno]

Nice art Ond. Who knew a robot could be so sexy. Lol.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[stigzler]

Love the background.

[yotsuya]

Love it, Ond! The boys at Yoshiwara give their approval as well!

[Ond]

Thanks for the feedback guys, it still needs a fair bit of tweaking and fine detail work.  When I'm satisfied that I've achieved the look I'm going for, I will make the hi-res printable artwork available for download via a drop box link.

 

Ond

[Ond]

Update:  Here is a sample of the final left side panel artwork, now to finish the right side!

[marvin_rock]

First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff.  Just waiting on permission from him to post it.  With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?

I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing.  But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it.  Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.

[EssexMame]

I hope he says yes marvin_rock. Theres a LOT of great design and information on this thread but because its (rightly) so popular it can take a while to find it.

[ppv]

First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff.  Just waiting on permission from him to post it.  With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?

I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing.  But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it.  Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.

Already did it a couple of post back...

[marvin_rock]

First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff.  Just waiting on permission from him to post it.  With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?

I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing.  But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it.  Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.

Already did it a couple of post back...

D@MN IT!  How did I miss that, would have saved me about 3 hours last night.  Of course I think mine is a little bit prettier, but heck, the work is all there.

[ppv]

First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff.  Just waiting on permission from him to post it.  With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?

I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing.  But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it.  Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.

Already did it a couple of post back...

D@MN IT!  How did I miss that, would have saved me about 3 hours last night.  Of course I think mine is a little bit prettier, but heck, the work is all there.

I was striving for "Functional"! 

[marvin_rock]

Does anyone know if anything like this exists for a pedestal style cabinet?  Specifically the blueprints?  I've searched google and the forums and not a lot of luck.  I'd LOVE to duplicate this one - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117320.0

[Ond]

Here is a variation on the CP layout that marvin_rock asked for.  The downloadable Visio file can be printed out 1:1 on an A3 printer as is (it will span several sheets), or can be adjusted in Visio to print on other paper sizes.  Folks can PM me if they have trouble setting this.  It uses the slagcoin layout .  Note also, I have set this CP layout to use 30mm holes suitable for Japanese style buttons such as Sanwa.

[Ond]

Artwork for both left and right cabinet sides is now complete!  In total there is art for:


left and right side panel
Bezel
CP & Front panel
Marquee




The hi-res images should print up nicely, here's a closer look at the detail.



*Note, if it's not to your taste that's fine, I drew it up to please moi 

[Palen]

Hi all,

Haven't been on the forum for a while, but this Christmas I finally had the time to think about the artwork. The almost finished cabinet had been standing in the corner collecting dust for a while. I found a very good printing service near rotterdam. The artwork really transforms the cabinet (worth it every penny).

Some info on my build:
- Design by OND (modified by me:)) I basically cut it in half and left open the space under the controlpanel for a keyboard and mouse.
- Building material: MDF + Pinewood (pine turned out a bit soft, might go for something a bit more heavy the next time).
- Paint: Rolled on a waterbased primer (2 layers, an extra layer on the MDF edges though) and finish (2 layers). Also works fine for the aluminum parts (as long as the primer is made for it).
- Bezel: 3mm Plexiglass painted black (with the same waterbased finish) on the backside (after sanding with scotchbright)
- Artwork: Adhesive vinyl + laminate (satin/matte) for the sides. Adhesive vinyl + floorgraphic laminate for the controlpanel. Floorgraphic is a more sturdy laminate that protects the artwork from buttonbashing / filty hands and cleaning
- Marquee: Lambda print on duratrans (that's an opaque translucent type of photofilm) bonded on 3mm PETG (some sort plexi i guess). Marquee retainers are custom bend aluminum strips, held in place by 10 tiny screws.

- Screen: 24" DELL with a really awesome viewing-angle. Really hard to spot any color difference when you move around.
- Audio: 2 x 5'' 2-way speakers (30-50 watt carspeakers) + and a Dynavox mini amplifier 2x25 watt
- Lights: 2 x 0.5 meter bright white LED strip (120 LED's total) for the marquee and 0.5 meter of green LED strip under the controlpanel lighting the keyboard and mouse.
- Control Panel: Ilsa pushbuttons, Sanwa Joysticks, Trackball and Mini PAC controller card by Ultimarc.

Special thanks to OND and anyone else in the forums who helped me build this cabinet Possibly we'll get mentioned on the PopCap / Plants vs Zombies facebookpage. I send them some pictures to thank them for the hi-res artwork they provided.

Here's some pictures of the finished cabinet. For pictures of the full build see my photobucket gallery http://s1300.photobucket.com/user/tsluijter/slideshow/

[Ond]

Great work Palen!  I loved the theme when you first announced and the final artwork has turned out really really nice.  It was good checking out your build pics, and some very useful info on build, paint, materials and artwork application.  You should still create your own project thread of your progress / steps to completion even though you've finished it up  . 

This is exactly the sort of result I'd hoped for when I first thought of the Metropolis project, folks taking the initiative with the design and some build basics and making it their own.

If you're reading this and feeling like getting into the hobby, then go for it! Announce it here and make a start.   I'm here to help as are many others.

Hmm, *chin scratch* I really like the modded table version of this cab, in particular the size, it's a big bartop! It could suitt space challenged people and still be a two player cab.  I may draw up some modded plans along the lines of Palen's cab and share them out.  Stay tuned.

 

Happy New (Onds?)  Year

[stigzler]

Palen. That's wicked.

[BeeryGaz]

Right, I can't stand it any more. I've finally cracked and ordered my wood.  Seeing all of the fantastic results in this thread and reading stigzler's excellent web site I just have to have a go at building my own cab from scratch.  As it stands I have a circular saw, jig saw, router and all 10 fingers.  I'll keep you posted on progress (especially the number of fingers). 

Thanks to everyone on this thread for making it sound easier than I'm sure it is going to be, and offer inspiration, encouragement and detailed explanations.

[Ond]

  Good on ya BeeryGaz! Welcome to the forum and a fun and extremely addictive hobby.  I'm sure you have already, but, I'll say it anyway - be sure to to browse the Project Announcements  plenty, get to know the regulars,  check out the Wiki and do your research.  stigzler is a good example of someone who's done just that.

Don't try to rush your project, practice with any tools you are newer to on scrap wood first, and take plenty of pics of your work to document the journey. 

 

Ond

[stigzler]

  - not the first time I've been called "an example"

My tuppence-worth:

1. Don't drink beer whilst routing.
2. Make sure you drink lots of beer.

Oh, and give yourself time... lots of time.....!

Look forward t the pics, Gaz.

[BeeryGaz]

OK - started marking and cutting - issues so far:

1. Me and my new router are not friends.  Trying to straighten an edge resulted in a lot of little half moon dents in my work.  Still, school fees paid, and a good top-bearing router bit and some new wood later and I'm back in the saddle.

2. The bloody metric measurements in the PDF seem off.
e.g.
The internal width of the cab seems to be 610mm - but why then is the front panel 593mm?  The imperial drawings have all the front & back panels 24" wide. 
The back in the imperial drawings is 66 9/16" high while the back of the side panels (before the 45 deg angle) is a little shorter at 67 11/32" - in the metric drawings those respective measurements are 1691mm and 1662mm - it seems the back will stick up past the start of the 45deg angle?
The Imperial drawings have the depth of the side panels at 23 1/4" = 597mm while the metric drawings have the side panels 23mm narrower at 574mm

3. There's no base plate measurement in the cutting plan.  The imperial one in a later post (showing how to attach batons and castors), once converted, is nothing close to any of the other metric measurements!

[Ond]

Ahh that's no good BeeryGaz, sorry to hear that  .  Well, I'd better remove those metric plans until I can sort them out to prevent any further confusion.  Hopefully you can still use the imperial plans as a guide, I'm pretty sure they're OK as others have built from them already.

[stigzler]

Go off the Imperial, Beery. Or you can go off the metric off my design, although it is altered slightly from the original plans. Here:

https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design#TOC-Cutout-Plan

Did flag this up a few months ago:

OND - think some of your measurements may be out on your metric plans. e.g:
rear panel Imp = 66 9/16h on a 67 11/32 back height
rear panel Met = 1691 on a 1662 back height
Also - Front 827x593 - should this not be x610 (W of cab)

Guessing it just fell by the wayside. I know what it's like - one gets all consumed in one's own projects.

Don't be disheartened or put off, Beery. One thing I'm taking away from this build is that you'll NEVER give up until it's done!!

[Ond]

I'm giving all bro's in here some UPs, thanks for the interest generated in this project fellas - keep building 

[BeeryGaz]

Well - I'm forging forward with a combination of the metric and common sense.  The biggests hurdles I've hit so far:

1. Getting the chamfer angles right for the angled CP (and I predict I'll have similar issues with the top rear panels at are also angled) - I'm going to have to screw & glue the CP together and fill the many gaps - meaning my CP will never come apart again! 

2. My CP recess and stupid joystick design that needs this weird countersink in order to get the base flush.


I feel kind of "stuck" right now waiting for my T-molding and channel bit (somewhere on a row-boat between USA and South Africa) so I can route the channel before assembly. 

[Ond]

Well - I'm forging forward with a combination of the metric and common sense.  The biggests hurdles I've hit so far:

1. Getting the chamfer angles right for the angled CP (and I predict I'll have similar issues with the top rear panels at are also angled) - I'm going to have to screw & glue the CP together and fill the many gaps - meaning my CP will never come apart again! 

2. My CP recess and stupid joystick design that needs this weird countersink in order to get the base flush.

I feel kind of "stuck" right now waiting for my T-molding and channel bit (somewhere on a row-boat between USA and South Africa) so I can route the channel before assembly.

I'm glad you're persevering despite the challenges.  I've never seen that type of joystick before, most are flush across the mount plate face.  You might consider setting that joystick aside and getting a Sanwa brand or even a cheaper alternative.  That's probably not what you want to hear right now, but I'd still consider it somewhere in the future.  Its a continuous learning process in this hobby, particularity with regard to control options.

Hopefully your delivery of parts won't take too long.  I'm going to give a plug to a supplier I use - In 2 Amusements here in Australia.  Many people on the forum in the US and northern hemisphere have reliable suppliers such as Groovy Game Gear  who provide excellent service BTW.  For some 'down here', though accessing parts can be a real PITA.  I highly recommend In 2 Amusements.  I have no affiliation with them whatsoever, but have had excellent fast service every time I've ordered from them.  One time I really muddled my order, changed my mind and generally confused everybody, they still sorted it out with no delivery delay.

You can check them out here:  http://in2amusements.com.au/

While you're waiting for your parts, work on your cabs FE (Front End) and get your Emulator system set up.

[BeeryGaz]

Still forging ahead. Made a plan with the joysticks to them mounted.  Thanks OND for the Aussie referrals but I think shipping to Johannesburg from the US is as close as Aus.  Either  way, it's expensive and takes forever.

OND can you shed some light on your CP construction?  I don't have vinyl artwork so,was planning on a polished/lacquered paint job.  Of course I need to fill and sand the imperfections on the CP joins, and then paint. This assumes the CP is fully assembled.  How do I get to the underside of the CP top to screw in the joysticks and attach the wiring once it's all screwed closed?   Even with the hoots in the back there's not enough room in there to maneuver to connect up spade connectors, etc.  what am I missing?

[Ond]

There should be enough room in the CP to pre-wire controls and then fit them into the CP.  I did this myself with a CP I built for a friends Cocktail cab sometime ago with similar dimensions.  That said, I haven't built this design myself.  I would PM Palen or Chapel and ask them how they implemented the design.

[stigzler]

Keepin the thread alive!!

Some more progress pics:



I'm really putting the artwork stage off!!! The thought of it leaving my Inkscape + coming back to me makes me nervous. All it would take is 2mm out for my CP panel vinyl!!

[dalio]

Having watched this thread for nearly a year, I've finally got moving on starting this build.

I'm in an apartment in the middle of London, so don't have the tools or workshop space to cut my own MDF, so have emailed a few CNC services to get the parts cut for me (a 'friend' said that means I'm project managing rather than making it myself, but I think it's worth it!)

Fingers crossed I'll be able to get the wood parts by next weekend, and can start the physical build.  Will try and post my sketchup plans when I get a bit more design work done.

Can anyone recommend a good thread on applying a laminate or vinyl? Again with the apartment, I'm not sure I can get away with painting big bits of wood to a good quality.

Thanks to OND, and all of you guys for showing so much help and encouragement - with this board as a resource, I'm ready to go!

[stigzler]

Godspeed and good luck, Dalio.

Oh, and if you find a good CNC'er - let me know. Whilst the woodworking was fun, to cut 3 months out of my next build would be a godsend!

[dalio]

Thanks Stigzler!  Your site has been a great help too - seeing all the different cut views you have in sketchup has really helped with my planning.

I've found a CNC shop that will have it all sorted and delivered this time next week, so when I get the parts & check them out, I'll post their details here, as their quote is really reasonable.

[stigzler]

Cool. I'd be very interested in the process (e.g. How you got Sketchup to plans/another application to give to the CNC'ers).

Ideally, what I'd like to do next time is produce something that would also have recesses for battons into the design, so can open the 'flat pack' ( ) drop the battons into the recesses and screw them in from the inside. I remember the batton positioning being a real PITA on this build. And, on this one, screwed battons from outside + filled - the wood filler appeared to either continue expanding (despite painting being weeks later) or reacted to the paint + now go bumpy panels

One should never have bumpy panels. 

[dalio]

Can you sketch something out to describe what you mean about recessed batons? 

I've not ordered the parts yet, so could still try something different.  I'd like to avoid bumpy panels too! I saw that the position of the batons was going to be difficult to screw from the inside - so had resigned myself to outside in, and filling the holes.  It'd be good to hear how Palen & Chapel handled that bit.

As for process I started in creating the board cutting that OND shared in Illustrator, then imported various bits into sketchup, and traced them in there (as close as I can anyhoo).  Then went back into illustrator to provide the CNC guys with bezel and cornering info on separate layers.

[Ond]

Just a small tip from me (and welcome dalio!) for a nice smooth finish when filling holes, only slightly countersink the screw heads into the timber and use Bondo to fill over.  This will minimize any filler expansion and sand to a perfect smooth finish.  I don't use wood fillers or anything else for the job. 

 

Ond

[stigzler]

Cheers OND - why is it despite months of research and reading, you always miss a tiny thing that makes such a huge difference!??

Btw - what's "Bondo"??

Will knock something together, dalio once server's back online + can get to sketchup files.

[PL1]

Btw - what's "Bondo"??

Bondo is a brand name for a product that's like wood putty for auto-body/sheet metal repairs.

You mix and apply it like epoxy -- Ond's videos show the process very well.   

At 7:50 it shows the product that he uses, PlastiBond.

Bondo also makes a wood filler formulation.




Scott

[Ond]

Cheers OND - why is it despite months of research and reading, you always miss a tiny thing that makes such a huge difference!??

Btw - what's "Bondo"??

Will knock something together, dalio once server's back online + can get to sketchup files.

That's alright mate, yeah that happens.  Bondo has various names, in fact here I use a version of it call 'Plasti Bond'.  It's similar to automotive car filler sometimes called 'bog'.  There are different grades of it, seek out the better stuff for better results.  I just checked my YouTube account, I had quite a few videos on there that were not publicly listed, I've changed that and released a bunch of stuff to the wide world including my surface prep & paint finish videos.

So! some love from me to all of you, ain't I generous?     In seriousness it's good to share, I've found so much useful stuff that others have provided on the net, it's how it should be.

Thanks Scott, you speedy bugger you 

[PL1]

Thanks Scott, you speedy bugger you 

That's what she sa. . . umm, uhh, no she didn't.   


Scott

[dalio]

So, this is happening then...

A whole bunch of lovely cut pieces of MDF waiting for my dodgy woodwork & painting skills