Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis'

[Ond]

Just Started my build, heres a pic of the side pieces, cut the other cabinet pieces after I took this pic, Just need to cut out holes for coin mech and speakers, then Cut CP pieces.
Then the real fun begins!

I've Build a 4 player cab off the Ultimate Arcade II plans, and a Cocktail table style (Both sold years ago)
Really like the plans Ond drew up, more modern style with a smaller footprint will fit nicely in my small home.

Will keep yas updated as I go along.

Thanks Ond!

Chapel

Welcome Chapel!  That blue T-Molding and controls should look very nice, keep us posted on your progress.

Wow, all these designs are amazing. I've never actually built my own cab.

Hey Alistair, now is the time to start your very own build, especially as I'm gearing up to add new content to the thread,  speaking of which, the Metric plans are now available for download on Page 1 in PDF.  ARTWORK NEXT!

 

Ond

[GernBlanston]

Getting closer.  Exciting stuff.  Here's a pic of my Metropolis design (23" Dell LCD, vertical) as it sits today.  OND, I probably wouldn't have attempted this if not for your plans.  I tend to research things to death and have to be 100% confident that I can pull a project off before I'll begin, so had I not found your plans I probably would have just researched and researched until I just got bored with it and moved onto something else.  So, thanks, man.  I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.  My kids can too actually, so they are bugging the absolute crap out of me to finish this thing.  My oldest actually asked me to stay home and work on this cab vs. coming to his soccer game.  WTF?

Still need to add:

• Mount casters/wheels
• Acquire/install speakers and grills (looking at the Logitech 2.1 recommended here)
• Venting (heat)
• Tweak panels for marquee fitment (need marquee track/holder thing)
• Install CP side pieces
• Latches for rear door and CP (need CP hinges too)
• Fill holes, sand, paint, T-molding, etc.
• Acquire smoked(?) plexi to cover LCD and bezel
• Side and CP artwork
• Acquire/install marquee light.
• Acquire power supply for 12v lights in coin door, RGB's, etc.
• Install PC and wire everything
• And probably 20 other things that I haven't thought of yet or just forgot to list

A few questions for now, though more will be forthcoming I'm sure, and thx in advance for any help the Gang here can provide:

1. Paint.  I'm going to eventually cover the sides and CP with custom art and am unsure about which paint to use.  I *hate* painting and have never used oil-based paint.  Not sure that I've ever painted MDF either, though I have mix of MDF and ply in this cab.  I'm afraid that if I use latex it won't spread properly, will leave brush lines, etc.  Though I haven't glued everything together (some but not all of the big panels, CP box is still sitting loose on top of the cab, etc.) I'd prefer to paint it fully assembled if I can vs. taking much of it apart.  Will a rattle can get this done or will it look like total crap?  Main areas of concern are the LCD bezel and the front of the cab.  Should I go all in and do oil-based primer and paint?  Or is latex sufficient?

2. Artwork, DESIGN.  I'm eventually going to commission some custom artwork for the sides, CP, and marquee.  Should be ready to go in about 2-3 weeks.  Probably want some sort of "Retro" design showing a bunch of old characters, e.g., Donkey Kong, PacMan, Robotron, Metal Slug, etc.  Also unsure about the CP artwork.  I'm going to go ahead and wire one up now but really want a nice CP with custom art with borders around the various sections of the CP.  Recommendations for a designer (prefer to use someone here of course) and approximate cost for design and actual printing of this stuff?  I'd like to use someone that is "proven" but have no idea where to start.  Lil hep?

3. 1/2" MDF is spec'd for the top of the CP and it seems sturdy enough for this small 2 player panel, but I've also read several suggestions to only use 3/4 or 5/8 MDF for the top of the CP.  I can still do 3/4" MDF easily enough and now's time to change it if I'm going to do it.  Should I bother?  I am going to install a U-Trak in this thing and know that I'll have to build it up a bit to make it work (no problem) but afraid that the hole in the middle might weaken it a bit?  Is 1/2" MDF sufficient for the top of this 2-player panel with U-Trak or should I go to 5/8"?  (OND: Hey, a-hole, if you needed 5/8" I would have told you to use it in the plans!)

4. Marquee channel/track/holder-thing.  Did I read that someone on this board sells marquee channel?

5. Plexi to cover LCD and bezel...  I'd like the idea of using a "smoked" plexi (or lexan or whatever) to cover the monitor and bezel in an effort to hide the unused top/bottom of the screen while horizontal games are being played.  Is smoked plexi the way to go?  Source?  Cuts on table saw OK or will they pre-cut with decent accuracy? Approximate cost?



Thanks again to all of the contributors here, especially the regulars.  And extra-special big thanks to OND for caring enough to share(ing).  (Lordy, that was lame.)

-Gern

[Ond]

Great work Gern!  Its really pleasing to know your kids share in the excitement too  .

Here's my answers to at least some of your questions:

1. I will be covering an approach to painting which would work well for this cab in detail in the future.  There are also video tutorials I've done on preparing MDF (or any surface) for a nice paint finish.  But just a quick summary here.  MDF is a highly absorbent and porous material, the key thing is to both seal it and smooth it prior to painting. Non water based primers are best for this.  I’m going to show you the finished result on some speaker cabinet (two of eight I built) for my home cinema.  That surface is the surface I recommend for this cab.  It will take vinyl printed artwork nicely, and just look the business especially in dark grey or black, without being super labor intensive.  I highly recommend painting the partly disassembled cab using the process below.



These speaker cabinets were built from heavy (up to 30mm thick / 1+ inch thick) MDF.  Screw holes were all filled with Bondo, surfaces sanded and rattle can sprayed with High Build Automotive Primer (several coats, sanding (with 400 grit power sander in between each coat) and then painted using a foam roller and acrylic paint (two coats).  The High Build Primer provided the perfect smooth, sealed surface to apply paint to, with zero underlying MDF texture evident.  The rolled on finish feels like a vinyl low sheen surface with very slight texture.

2. I will be providing high resolution, drawn, Metropolis themed (based on the Fritz Lang film) side, Marquee and CP art for this design.  Obviously this will not appeal to everyone building this cab.  I’m nearing the end of doing any further custom artwork for people gratis.  With the exception of one other members cab and the Metropolis cab, that will be the last of the free artwork from me.  I’m so busy with life right now (away from home for my job) I barely had time to draw up the metric plans for this.  Hopefully this will change in the next few weeks.

There are some excellent artists on here I’m sure would be happy to do some artwork on commission.  Just post a request in the Artwork board.  Opt2not and Pixelhugger are highly recommended; also try wol-nz for some juicy looking graphics.

3. No problem with using ¾ for the CP, just route for joysticks and buttons accordingly. Or if flex concerns you with ½, just put a couple of brace pieces between CP bottom and CPtop.

[stigzler]

Thanks for the reply OND - all very helpful. I'm sooooo frustrated about the LCD monitor situation though! All I can seem to find are widescreen ones on ebay. Am desperate fro a 4:3 to get maximum height for my width!

I love your design, but need to make some mods for Speaker placements and other front panel features. What CAD software you use for this? I need to get stuck in examining adaptations in theory before going mental with my circular saw.

Thanks again for your contribution!

Oh, and Gern - your build looks wizard!

[HaRuMaN]

I'm sooooo frustrated about the LCD monitor situation though! All I can seem to find are widescreen ones on ebay. Am desperate fro a 4:3 to get maximum height for my width!

Must not be looking very hard, then. 

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Dell+UltraSharp+2001FP

[zvar]

Another place to look...
I seen about 20 or so 4:3 LCD's up at the local Goodwill the other day.  And most no more than $10 as an added bonus.

- Steven

[Palen]

Hi OND and all others,

Yet another person building this cab!!

2 months ago I knew nothing of MAME and custom made arcade cabinets, and would have never dreamed of building one myself. But after some internet research I stumbled upon this guide. The thorough explanation of construction-details gave me the courage to start designing my own cab. I'm not exactly an experienced woodworker, but most stuff seems doable.. and MDF is not that expensive

So thanks a million for this thread and your original design, I love the looks: clean and simple, and still the boxy looks of an old school arcade. I did modify your design a bit, but i guess you had that in mind when you created this thread. I cut off the bottom half, so it take's less space and can I place it on a regular height desk or tabel. On top of that I can easily relocate it and put it in the back of my car. Also i'm going for Plants vs. Zombies theme, since I just love that game.

I'm about to start building so I thought it's about time to let you guys know about it on the forum: so here I am I'll keep you posted on my progress, and I'm sure some questions will arise when building it. The only thing that's not totally clear for me is fitting the marquee, but i'm positive I'll have a solution before I get there.

[Ond]

G'day Palen,  you're quite right, take what I've provided and make it your own.  Plants vs. Zombies, what a great theme!  A bartop from the design is innovative, I like it.  The render looks good, I imagine green T-Molding would go very nicely with that if you are planning on using it?  I notice you've added a Vesa mount panel for the monitor which is a common way of fixing the monitor into a cab.  An alternative I was thinking of was to fit the monitor into the rebate on the rear of the bezel and use some brackets on the edges to clamp it in place.

@ stigzler - I use a few different CAD style programs or more closely 3D Drawing apps, including Sketchup now and then. I favor 3D Studio Max just because that's what I'm used to.  If you were starting out with that type of software I'd highly recommend Sketchup, it's free and plenty of people here use it.

[Palen]

I'm not sure about T-molding yet. I did make a render with the edges colored green, but didn't like it very much.
Allthough the artwork in the render was just to give myself an impression on what it could look like and I wanted to know what color buttons and joysticks to order. I still have to do the real artwork.

And yea i'm going for VESA, just seems easier than making a rebate, I've never done anything like that before. Also: I don't have a router. Something I probably need for the T-molding as well. I can probably borrow my dads Dremel, but not sure on how well that would work. For the bezel I bought a thin piece of MDF (6 mm) and just thought I'd just give the edges a 45 degr. angle.

@stigzler. I used Solidworks for my model. I have no experience with the apps OND used NOR did I have any experience with Solidworks before a couple of weeks ago.

[stigzler]

Thanks OND and Pallen. Gone for sketch-up. Wow - add more tasks to the build - now learning about 3d software! sheesh.

OND - think some of your measurements may be out on your metric plans. e.g:
rear panel Imp = 66 9/16h on a 67 11/32 back height
rear panel Met = 1691 on a 1662 back height

Also - Front 827x593 - should this not be x610 (W of cab)

Because I'm redesigning the cab slightly, I'm gonna have a go at doing visually in sketchup and them getting the measurements off there. :/

I'm basically trying to integrate this cracking looking design with Doc's modular arcade, which means fitting the CP in a more classic lined side, rather than sitting over the top.

Cheers

[Chapel]

Small update,

[Ond]

Hey Chapel, it's coming along very nicely.  I know you've built a few cabs before but it's a pretty cool moment to see your cab standing on it's own for the first time.  Your woodwork all looks nice and clean.  I want you guys who are building my design to know that it's now YOU who are inspiring me to get on with my own cab building.  Thanks fellas.

 

Ond

[Chris John Hunter]

Hey Chapel, it's coming along very nicely.  I know you've built a few cabs before but it's a pretty cool moment to see your cab standing on it's own for the first time.  Your woodwork all looks nice and clean.  I want you guys who are building my design to know that it's now YOU who are inspiring me to get on with my own cab building.  Thanks fellas.

 

Ond

Looking forward to an update on this. If it looks anything like the mock ups at the start of the project its going to be something special and a half.
  Well done  and keep up the hard work!

CJ

[Chapel]

Another Small update.

Got The door On!

you'll notice I put molding on the inside to make the door fit tight, instead of using the router to make the rebate for the door to fit in, I wanted to use the cutout for the door since I didnt want to waste that piece of wood, and I was lazy.

also in the first pic, that is not a gap in the door as my wife pointed out to me, its just not closed completely.

Chapel

[Ond]

Looking good! No worries on the door variation, it gives you a thicker door anyway 

...that is not a gap in the door as my wife pointed out to me, its just not closed completely.
Chapel

trust our wives to find our faults eh? (even when said faults are non existent) 

[Chapel]

Ha! Yes definately, at least she was paying attention!

[hujo2008]

This is great!

[stigzler]

Hi folks + OND,

Thanks to your design, OND, I am now approaching doing it all for real!! Most things agthered - gonna order the wood this weekend + week off next week - no going back now!

Due to the requirements around my build, had to adapt the design somewhat. I wonder whether any experienced cab builders out there would be willing to take a look at my design before I commit jigsaw to wood!? Essentially, after feedback before plunging ('scuse the pun). Is there another forum area I should post this request in?

Really would appreciate it. The relevant page:

https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design

Cheers!

[Ond]

Hi folks + OND,

Thanks to your design, OND, I am now approaching doing it all for real!! Most things agthered - gonna order the wood this weekend + week off next week - no going back now!

Due to the requirements around my build, had to adapt the design somewhat. I wonder whether any experienced cab builders out there would be willing to take a look at my design before I commit jigsaw to wood!? Essentially, after feedback before plunging ('scuse the pun). Is there another forum area I should post this request in?

Really would appreciate it. The relevant page:

https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design

Cheers!

Hey stigzler,  good job taking my design and re-working it to suit your needs especially learning and  re-designing in Sketch-up.  The best way to get feedback (and high visibility) is by announcing your upcoming project in Project Announcements.   See if you can land yourself a circular saw in addition to a jigsaw, it will make life easier!

[stigzler]

Thanks OND, and thanks for the inspiring design. Have jigsaw, clamps, sawhorses, circular saw at the ready. Oh, and a borrowed router without a depth gauge >.< - guess I'm gonna have to buy another tool! Have I read somewhere that one with a 1/2" collet is betterer?

Will post in announcements.

[Palen]

Hey all,

Almost a month since I started building my Half-Metropolis Plants vs. Zombies cabinet . Time for an update and share some of my experiences (good and bad).

- I found out i'm really a big construction newbie Things that seemed really easy in theory have a tendency to work out differently in practice, especially the first time you try them. Like glueing and screwing the timber. For some reason I often don't get the positioning 100% right. Although the positioning was 100% correct when I pre-drilled the holes when everything was clamped down. Things like this I just miss the experience I guess.

- Also making straight cuts in wood. It takes a lot of effort to get things exactly straight 90deg. edges. and even then it's sometimes off by half a mm. While at the construction market where I shopped for MDF, there is a free sawing service for the straight cuts. It takes them like 2 seconds to make a cut more precise than I can ever make at home. This is something I will keep in mind for any future project.

- I didn't have a router. So I did most things by being precise with the sabresaw and using a block and sandpaper afterwards. I did use a Dremel to make rebates for the joysticks and small edge for the Plexiglas to stand on (CP Backing). This went OK, except for the fact that the MDF started smoking about a second after i started routing. Tried different height settings, going slower/faster, more/less pressure, more/less rmp. Going faster, seemed to give less smoke, but still my edges were somewhat blackened.

All in all, it's going quite well, check out my photobucket album (Click the picture below). Don't want to hijack this topic by posting 10 pictures at once There's some more info about the build in the descriptions of each photo.

Also after some emails I got hold of someone from Plants vs. Zombies who is willing to help me out on some artwork from the game, so i'm really excited about that!

@ stigzler: Wow you put a lot of effort and detail in the design. Looking good, i'm no expert though. Just looking at those fans I'd say it's going to be noisy, but that shouldn't have to be a problem as long as you turn the cab off when you're not using it. Only thing I don't like are the 90 degree angles you made on the panels holding the marquee.

@ chapel: Keeps those pics comming, clean looking work. Nice to see different people to work on something based on the same design.

@ OND: Used some of that inspiration to start building yet?

[Chapel]

Very Nice Work so far Palen! 

its motivating me to get back in the garage and continue working.

I just wish I had an A/C unit in there, damn this Florida Humidity!


Chapel

[Ond]

Those edges look pretty good to me Palen, thanks for sharing your experiences good and bad.  I know what you mean about smokin up the place with burning MDF and a Dremel.  Dremel's are great for some things but unfortunately they lack the raw power that enables a router to cut through timber cleanly.  I have used a router with a blunt bit though, with similar smokey results.  Even the fairly cheap router I have does the job, but one day I'll upgrade to the superb Bosch.

I am indeed absorbing all of your enthusiasm like a Dragonborn absorbs dragon's souls (anyone here play Skyrim ) and using said inspiration to finish my existing projects off.  One of them is getting a bit long in the tooth and has gone over a couple of pages now 

Are you guys telling your mates about your hobby?  You are all going the extra mile you know, beyond mame'ing some half rotting old gutted cab shell and plunking an x arcade CP on it and calling it done.  (that's a no no around here in case you were wondering).

Combine a cabinet you've made yourself with high quality controls, nice paint and artwork ( a good CP layout) and Mame configured with the latest HLSL features (LCD Monitor) and you are going to be the envy of your mates.

My long Lonnnng term goal would be to have my Xenolix bartop, my Astro cab, this cab (yeah I wanna build it too) and just one really nice restored cab in my collection.  And a driving setup, although not a driving cab.  At some stage in the future I want to design a radical driving game chassis, but that's just pipe dreams at the moment.  What about a VPin?  Not me,  I'd rather a real table.

Ond

Ond's useful tip for the week:  Do a search in the forum for tutorials by either Lumberjackass or Epyx or even me!  Tons of 'how to' in there.

[Palen]

Yeah i think it's the dremel's lack of power combined with the type of bit. The bit I used was brandnew however.

A couple of days ago I went to a local furniture maker to ask for help on the rounded edges on the control panel. He ended up doing it for free. But yeah it took him like 10 seconds to round a 74cm edge (30 inches). He did have a very old but very solid Mitsubishi router and a widia steel bit. He mentioned MDF is like the worst material for your tools though.

beyond mame'ing some half rotting old gutted cab shell and plunking an x arcade CP on it and calling it done.  (that's a no no around here in case you were wondering).

That sounds like my original idea, before stumbling upon your topic OND

I will have a look a some tutorials, allthough i'm almost done with the construction part.

- I'll just have to fit MQ bottom and the MQ retainers. I'm getting the 5" carspeakers for that this week. And I'll wait with the retainers until I get the marquee.

- Vesamount after that, but I actually want to have the monitor in my hands before I start doing that. Once I get the monitor I can paint the bezel on the back of the plexi (Just gonna roll it on, after sanding with scotch brite)

- Control Panel is also done, so all that's left is a lot of sanding and painting.

[Palen]

Oh and I found out I totally screwed up my door design. Since I wanted to use the kitchen hinges I had to go for a 18mm (3/4 inch) MDF and not 12 mm (1/2 inch) door. This combined with the fact that the door is full width and about 80cm (30 inch) high makes the door a really massive weight pulling on one side of the cabinet. This weight is kinda skewing the cabinet which makes it a bit instable (like the floor is uneven). And at first I actually thought the floor was uneven, but when I remove the door it's very stable again.. so might have to think of a workaround for that.

[stigzler]

Cheers Palen!

Ta for your feedback - you got me wondering whether 6 case fans is overkill!might just put two in the top and one at the bottom, with two grilled holes either side of bottom one to allow air intake to the PSUs.

Also your cab's looking tidy! Neat job on the exhausts at the top. Loved the marquee LED strip lighting - inspired me to buy 3x50cm (6w each) off ebay - just hoping that wattage is enough!

Yeah - the marquee thing was I couldn't figure how to mount the marquee at the top with essentially a 75deg(ish?) angle to fix a retainer to. So kept it 90deg. If only you could buy marquee retainers here in the UK. Sadly, gonna have to go the aluminum L bracket sprayed balck route - all i can find is plastic Ls in B+Q, Homebase etc.

OND - good shout on the cut and shut cabs - Considered for a millisecond when started thinking about building - it just couldn't happen

[Palen]

I've only been in the MAME scene for 2-months now, but marquee-retainer just seems like another word for expensive L-profile to me Think aluminium can look just as nice after painting.

I found a metalshop in the netherlands that makes L-profile in any angle and size and they even round the edges.  I was going for the 20mmx10mm (1inch-1/2inch) standard L-profile that I allready bought, but it seems I miscalculated: after installing the marquee there's only 4mm of aluminum left to screw to the MDF. If the custom-made L-profile turns out too expensive I will buy some 30mmx10mm L-profile.

[Chapel]

Small Update,

Added a couple more panels and Got the door to fit securely.

did some pacthing of screw holes also.

This weekend, going to tackle cutting/routing the Monitor Bezel and install speaker panel.

Cheers,

Chapel

[stigzler]

Looking good

[Kevinem82]

hey ond i just wanted to thank you with all your helpful pictures and measurements. I will be post a video when i get my marquee and everything 100% complete. Its at about 95% right now

[brihyn]

Chapel-
The door looks great...better than mine (using OND's plans). The door fits, but it's quite snug (usually a firm tap is necessary to completely close it)

[stigzler]

Brihyn,

I too am using OND's back door design - 1/2" into 3/4" recessed. Only thing I can't figure - how do you hinge it? Piano or kitchen unit hinges?

Cutting starting today - gulp!!

Must say though - just marked out the side panel profile + it looks great - slimline and great angles-

  Thanks a million, OND! 

[Ond]

Hey guys keep those updates coming, my build plans are all well and good but its you guys that now have the practical experience implementing them. 

@ Kevinem82 - You're welcome my friend a video would be great but you can post a few progress build pics as well (if you've got any).

@ stigzler - Good luck with your first cuts, don't worry about mistakes, in fact expect some!   This whole hobby is learn as you go.

BTW I haven't finished completing the overall instructions, there's more to come and will cover final construction details and finishing.

cheers all

Ond

[Chapel]

Hi Ond,

As I am getting closer to building the control panel, I have started reading your
Construction plans and have a question.
When putting together the control panel do you have it setup so it can be opened later to repair or install additional items to it? If not, what would you suggest? Maybe I guess make the bottom removeable to be able to get in there later if need be.

Thanks

Chapel

[Ond]

Hi Ond,

As I am getting closer to building the control panel, I have started reading your
Construction plans and have a question.
When putting together the control panel do you have it setup so it can be opened later to repair or install additional items to it? If not, what would you suggest? Maybe I guess make the bottom removeable to be able to get in there later if need be.

Thanks

Chapel

The design is for a closed CP with access through the rear cutouts.   There are a few bolts that hold the CP to the main cab body so the CP can be removed to work on. If you felt this was too cramped or you didn't want to remove the CP for access you could make the bottom removable as you suggest.

[stigzler]

Damn, this one got me out of bed!!! Why did I start this!?

Started cut-out. Side panels went swimmingly. Loving the look. However, due to cut out hole for door + also door.

Following your method, OND - like the idea of a rebate with 1/2" door to reduce weight.

I'm really puzzled, though. How did you envisage the hinge working? Attached mockups. Neither kitchen or piano hinges will work because of the rebate (Unless you put them on the outside, but that'd be ugly).

Am I missing something obvious? I suppose there's always 'blocking out' the hinged part of the door with a 1/4" strip, but imagine that might be really tricky. Also wondering about opening angles and binding...

Hmmmm... I just dont want to do something that's gonna be really difficult or worse, impossible to remedy...

Would appreciate your feedback, OND!!! Help!

[Ond]

The best quick response I can give you (for now) is to go and check out how your household doors are hinged.  Unless you've got a non-standard house your doors will be set into a rebate/frame with the hinge on the inside with only the pivot visible from the outside when the door is closed.  You need to make a slight rebate in the shape of the hinge (just a plain hinge not kitchen style) in the edge of the door and on the matching inside edge of the back panel.  The hinge needs to be no more than ~1/2" wide so it fits the edge of the door.  I've checked and there are narrow hinges at my hardware store like this.  Use 3 ordinary length hinges or 2 long hinges for strength.  The downside to this method is that it requires screws in the edge of the MDF, use long thin screws to compensate.

[stigzler]

Thanks for the swift reply, OND. I had thought of this, but became concerned about:

A) finding a half inch hinge
B) The screws going into the edge of the MDF
C) Finding screws thin and long enough.

Have you tried this method before and had success? Or any other builders?

Cracking on with the woodwork today, so will have some faith and proceed as per your design!

Thanks again for responding quickly!

Steve

[brihyn]

Let me know what kind of price range you're hitting for parts. So much of mine was built with stuff I had lying around (including the Slickstick CP), and I have someone asking me to build one for them...I have no idea what the real cost for an entire build would be.

[Chapel]

If you had to buy the monitor and going with a trackball, I would say about 600-700 bucks