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Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis'
vaderag:
That's very cool. Like that.
That should be helpful to any new builders - I'm still not super happy with mine as if I want to work on it I have to take the whole thing off and I'm cramped through a few large holes
It works and I'm not gonna change it but I like how you've done that a lot
Also loving the Portal theme
ZTylerDurden717:
--- Quote from: circusfreak on April 01, 2021, 02:41:42 pm ---Hey gang. I am about to finish up a pair of cabinets based on this design, but I will post a separate thread with details and more pics on them. Mine are "widebody" versions with 32" monitors...but the side profile, CP design with side wings, and 2-layered front panel with LEDs in them are taken right from this design. I really love the Metropolis original concept pics, and also the several versions you guys have posted here since.
So, the one thing that makes sense to share specifically on this thread is the CP box construction. Several posts were asking about how to access the CP, etc, and there were some ideas but I think mine might benefit people going forward.
The tough spot with this CP is that it has the cool solid front where the graphic rolls over the edge uninterrupted, and it has the side wings on it. This makes it tougher to do a normal hinged design like a lot of other CP designs.
I solved this with mine and in the process my CP is one of the most accessible I have seen. It was just a joy to work on during the wiring phase and it will be super easy to open up and tweak.
What I did:
- used a double-thickness of 3/4" hardwood (hard maple in my case) to attach to the front/bottom of the CP panel at the 5 degree bevel angle. This extra width of surface area
makes a super solid connection to the top panel. It also makes a much better material to allow the hinge screws to bite into.
- used a 30" continuous hinge (piano-hinge) to connect the bottom of the support to the bottom of the control panel box, which is then secured to the cabinet with screws.
- attached the side wings from the inside using pocket screws on the CP top and the front support hardwood piece.
The result is a CP which opens out totally flat and sits right about table height...perfect to work on sitting in a chair in front of it. The side wings make nice handles to use to open the CP. I might add some strong magnets on the inside of the CP to secure it, but it feels pretty solid just being closed with it's own weight.
Also, I moved the glass/bezel further inward to create a recessed 1 3/4" tray behind the CP for the admin buttons and to stash a pile of tokens, phone, game controller, etc. Got that piece from the 'Lakeside Arcade' thread. Very handy little feature.
Here are some pics of the CPs to illustrate.
--- End quote ---
That is badass.
So is there a latch on the backside/bezel side of the CP so that people can't grab onto the side wings and lift up the top by accident?
circusfreak:
--- Quote from: ZTylerDurden717 on April 02, 2021, 10:54:58 am ---
--- Quote from: circusfreak on April 01, 2021, 02:41:42 pm ---Hey gang. I am about to finish up a pair of cabinets based on this design, but I will post a separate thread with details and more pics on them. Mine are "widebody" versions with 32" monitors...but the side profile, CP design with side wings, and 2-layered front panel with LEDs in them are taken right from this design. I really love the Metropolis original concept pics, and also the several versions you guys have posted here since.
So, the one thing that makes sense to share specifically on this thread is the CP box construction. Several posts were asking about how to access the CP, etc, and there were some ideas but I think mine might benefit people going forward.
The tough spot with this CP is that it has the cool solid front where the graphic rolls over the edge uninterrupted, and it has the side wings on it. This makes it tougher to do a normal hinged design like a lot of other CP designs.
I solved this with mine and in the process my CP is one of the most accessible I have seen. It was just a joy to work on during the wiring phase and it will be super easy to open up and tweak.
What I did:
- used a double-thickness of 3/4" hardwood (hard maple in my case) to attach to the front/bottom of the CP panel at the 5 degree bevel angle. This extra width of surface area
makes a super solid connection to the top panel. It also makes a much better material to allow the hinge screws to bite into.
- used a 30" continuous hinge (piano-hinge) to connect the bottom of the support to the bottom of the control panel box, which is then secured to the cabinet with screws.
- attached the side wings from the inside using pocket screws on the CP top and the front support hardwood piece.
The result is a CP which opens out totally flat and sits right about table height...perfect to work on sitting in a chair in front of it. The side wings make nice handles to use to open the CP. I might add some strong magnets on the inside of the CP to secure it, but it feels pretty solid just being closed with it's own weight.
Also, I moved the glass/bezel further inward to create a recessed 1 3/4" tray behind the CP for the admin buttons and to stash a pile of tokens, phone, game controller, etc. Got that piece from the 'Lakeside Arcade' thread. Very handy little feature.
Here are some pics of the CPs to illustrate.
--- End quote ---
That is badass.
So is there a latch on the backside/bezel side of the CP so that people can't grab onto the side wings and lift up the top by accident?
--- End quote ---
Thanks!
Right now there is no latch or anything to hold it closed other than it's own weight. It's plenty stable for me. We don't have any small kids or anything so no worries about it getting yanked on. I may add some strong magnets to blocks on the underside if I feel I need it. I wasn't sure how solid the underside hinge would be, but it turned out stronger than I'd hoped.
Ond:
Ahh this project. I'm so proud of every builder that took this and made something of it, especially those that improvised and added their own spin on the design. My workshop is currently undergoing a makeover so I think I will spend some time on this. The artwork I did for the original concept is lost (except for low-res images). I want to re-do that artwork. Every-time I redo something it has to have some improvement, something to show for lessons learned and for the loss. I have no particular plans for the artwork other than to restore what was lost.
My other projects not progressing? Wondering where I am? I am here.
Ond:
My new restored side art. Side 'A'. Side 'B' with Maria next.
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