Author Topic: Build an OND designed cab 'Metropolis' (Read 331637 times)

stigzler · « **Reply #440 on:** January 16, 2016, 10:10:50 am »

Good choice on the 16:10.

Shows individual game info and controls. Had to knock together an app to get it all working - so all info managed via this. A bit of a rough video, as the whole setup is still WIP, but this gives you an idea of it in action:

The software:

https://cpwizbiz.codeplex.com/

vaderag · « **Reply #441 on:** January 16, 2016, 10:23:13 am »

That's pretty neat. Does it pull all that info automatically, or do you need to create a profile for each game?

I think if I were to add another screen I think it'd be a widescreen for the marquee... Maybe one day..

stigzler · « **Reply #442 on:** January 16, 2016, 11:39:26 am »

I couldn't find a pre-existing db for game controls - so yeah, you have to build a profile for each game. However, only takes a minute once you have the systems and controllers setup.

It also handles marquee displays too if you ever do that in the future. I've added an LCD marquee display to my OND build if you're seriously thinking about it and needing any advice.

vaderag · « **Reply #443 on:** January 16, 2016, 11:56:52 am »

I would be seriously interested but figured the cost might be prohibitive to find a suitable LCD... What did it set you back?

vaderag · « **Reply #444 on:** January 16, 2016, 12:15:42 pm »

Just making up now. Other than widening the only real change I'm making is I think I'm going to hinge the whole front panel as bo coin door, and use it as a rack/cupboard for some extra controllers

stigzler · « **Reply #445 on:** January 16, 2016, 12:31:25 pm »

PM sent.

There are alternatives to custom 16:6 displays. Think there's an LG monitor out there ("ultra-wide"?) which, whilst not quite marquee dimensions, is close - there's been a recent build with one - search the forums.

Now, the most cost effective way with an OND cabinet would be to mount a regular monitor on the underside of the top panel and then use a mirror to reflect the top-half of it towards the marquee. Kinda like below:

Obviously - in the sketch - the monitor image is the wrong way up and the mirror at totally the wrong angle - but you get the idea....

EDIT: No - hang on - that'd look crap! You'd see the monitor when looking up. Maybe like this:

and maybe with half-silvered perspex on the front? just spit-ballin.

vaderag · « **Reply #446 on:** January 23, 2016, 03:44:59 am »

I notice people have used Black primer on most these threads, but I'm struggling to find in anything but spray can... Did you all use spray cans or do I just need to search harder??

vaderag · « **Reply #447 on:** January 24, 2016, 05:55:32 am »

Can I ask what speakers people are using?

I've just bought some Logitech 2.1's and I'm really not happy with them (crakly at high volumes) so wondering where to go now...

stigzler · « **Reply #448 on:** January 24, 2016, 08:42:14 am »

Primer - just google/search on priming mdf (or whatever you're using). most people don't use black primer. If you're going for a dark topcoat, use grey. If light, white. I used a spray gun, but you could use a foam roller. Depending on how precise you want to be - some sand between coats for a mirror finish (e.g. OND often gets the finish of a Steinberg, whereas mine, on the other hand, is that of a teenager's face).

Speakers: my setup's ridiculous - car stereo, car speakers and an amped sub. Wouldn't do this again - back in the days of "hey... I could do this cheap!" Some people use a small amp (forgotten what it's called - lepai?) and 2 speakers - just search the forums. I've never figured sound properly. Different possibilities. I'd try go for some kind of separate sub. If I was doing it again, I'd go for powered DC amp with Sub Out and an A/C floor-standing sub (welded to the bottom of your cab).

Keep on trucking - yer in up to yer nuts now!

vaderag · « **Reply #449 on:** January 24, 2016, 09:28:17 am »

Lol, too right!! Thanks for the advice! Just ordered the next model up of the Logitech speakers in the hope that works!!

vaderag · « **Reply #450 on:** February 24, 2016, 08:38:58 am »

Afternoon all.
Just getting on to designing my artwork... i think i've decided to go with a bubble bobble vs street fighter theme (which seems to have boiled down to a Taito vs Street Fighter - see below) but just wondering if anyone has a base photoshop file for this cab design? Basically just looking to get the shape right?
I was trying to use the pdf to get the outline and scale but it's working out horribly...

Any help appreciated!

Sneek peek:

I'm actually wondering to go with more of a new vs old theme or a 'gaming generations' theme or something - same idea but with more varied characters...

stigzler · « **Reply #451 on:** February 24, 2016, 03:22:08 pm »

Try this in inkscape. Do check the dimensions though. It's an SVG - so should open in other vector programs - but again - do check the dimensions.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/DoNotDeleteContents/Cab%20Blank.svg

vaderag · « **Reply #452 on:** February 24, 2016, 03:39:29 pm »

Thanks, will take a look tomorrow!

Is there a reason everyone uses vectors as opposed to at resolution photoshop files? I mean, I know what I'm doing with PS, but would need to learn again on any vector software...

stigzler · « **Reply #453 on:** February 24, 2016, 03:42:24 pm »

To be honest, I never got my head around the whole dpi/resolution business for using bitmaps for sideart (and this is where you would use photoshop). Thus, my presently working with vectors. You could use Adobe Illustrator for vector work too.

vaderag · « **Reply #454 on:** February 25, 2016, 06:39:42 am »

Quote from: stigzler on February 24, 2016, 03:22:08 pm

Try this in inkscape. Do check the dimensions though. It's an SVG - so should open in other vector programs - but again - do check the dimensions.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/DoNotDeleteContents/Cab%20Blank.svg

Thanks for the link mate - your cab is actually a different shape to the standard OND build (it has the cp built in as opposed to OND where it's kind of 'tacked' on)
But it at least gave me an idea - i just made a canvas the right size, drew around the OND design and used the selection (which is for all intents and purposes a vector) to scale up to make a mask on my canvas...

vaderag · « **Reply #455 on:** February 25, 2016, 08:04:58 am »

I've just been thinking about the CP following my previous post - I don't intend to have mine exactly the same as the OND design - mine is going to sit on top fully and i want to add a curve...

Question is, how to people get their curves right?
I'm thinking something along this shape (maybe not quite as curved as that...):

EvilNuff · « **Reply #456 on:** February 25, 2016, 11:17:33 am »

Quote from: vaderag on February 25, 2016, 08:04:58 am

...
Question is, how to people get their curves right?
...

Do you mean get the curve in the wood right? See here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149516.0.html

vaderag · « **Reply #457 on:** February 25, 2016, 11:40:50 am »

Thank you - will watch those later

vaderag · « **Reply #458 on:** February 25, 2016, 12:25:33 pm »

Sorry, I have another question... I may have missed this in the instructions, but how is the cp held in place? I see 3 bolts at the back, but surely something is needed to hold it on to the main body at the bottom as well?
Also, how is maintenance performed on the cp? Is that done from the bottom? If so, how is it affixed? Rescrewing into mdf isn't good I hear, so that doesn't sound like a good idea!

PL1 · « **Reply #459 on:** February 25, 2016, 08:46:48 pm »

Quote from: vaderag on February 25, 2016, 12:25:33 pm

Rescrewing into mdf isn't good I hear, so that doesn't sound like a good idea!

Threaded inserts are your friend.

http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware

Scott

vaderag · « **Reply #460 on:** February 26, 2016, 03:48:15 am »

Quote from: PL1 on February 25, 2016, 08:46:48 pm

Quote from: vaderag on February 25, 2016, 12:25:33 pm
Rescrewing into mdf isn't good I hear, so that doesn't sound like a good idea!
Threaded inserts are your friend.

http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware

Scott

Awesome, thanks!

So are people screwing the bottom on and fixing the top? It seems the design with the rounded corners doesnt really work with the top opening as it'll be covered in vinyl...

Also, how it is being attached to the actual body - i see the three bolts at the back, but is it screwed into the flat pieces sticking out as well? If so, then surely it has to be top maintainence else there is no way to screw that?

Edit: just to be clear...

On the above image i've tried to very roughly draw the wireframe. There are three bolts at the back, but how is it held onto the straights marked with an arrow? Surely leaving it floating will mean it'll feel loose under strenuous play?

PL1 · « **Reply #461 on:** February 26, 2016, 04:33:01 am »

Quote from: vaderag on February 26, 2016, 03:48:15 am

So are people screwing the bottom on and fixing the top? It seems the design with the rounded corners doesnt really work with the top opening as it'll be covered in vinyl...

Also, how it is being attached to the actual body - i see the three bolts at the back, but is it screwed into the flat pieces sticking out as well? If so, then surely it has to be top maintainence else there is no way to screw that?

Not sure about that -- haven't looked closely at the Metropolis CP design.

I was just commenting on how to avoid pulping the MDF when removing/re-inserting screws.

Scott

stigzler · « **Reply #462 on:** February 26, 2016, 12:11:00 pm »

Couldnt you just put small battons along inside of side panels under cp unit and screw/bolt down into those?

RxBrad · « **Reply #463 on:** February 26, 2016, 12:28:57 pm »

I'd suggest getting your threaded inserts from a non-arcade vendor.

Here's 100 of them for $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO

Buying them in bulk is pretty cheap, and you can find all kinds of useful places for them. I used them for my joysticks, to secure my monitor glass, to secure my monitor and speakers inside the cab, for attaching cable management clips inside my cab, for my marquee retainers... These things really are great.

vaderag · « **Reply #464 on:** February 26, 2016, 12:46:42 pm »

Quote from: stigzler on February 26, 2016, 12:11:00 pm

Couldnt you just put small battons along inside of side panels under cp unit and screw/bolt down into those?

Good shout - bolt into the bottom through a baton on each side...

I'd need to do something weird tho if i want it to be bottom access for maintainence too (which it needs to be due to the vinyl...)

PL1 · « **Reply #465 on:** February 26, 2016, 12:59:07 pm »

Quote from: RxBrad on February 26, 2016, 12:28:57 pm

I'd suggest getting your threaded inserts from a non-arcade vendor.

Here's 100 of them for $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO

I agree with the idea of buying in bulk, but the thread geometry on the ones you linked isn't very wide/flat.

Scott

stigzler · « **Reply #466 on:** February 26, 2016, 02:42:54 pm »

Most CPs like the one you posted are top hinged... wouldn't that work better for you?

vaderag · « **Reply #467 on:** February 26, 2016, 03:10:47 pm »

Quote from: stigzler on February 26, 2016, 02:42:54 pm

Most CPs like the one you posted are top hinged... wouldn't that work better for you?

It totally would, but i'm now leaning towards the original design of CP - this would have the vinyl wrapping around the front to the back, so only way for it to open sensibly and without ruining the vinyl over time would be from the bottom...

JudgeRob · « **Reply #468 on:** March 02, 2016, 04:39:31 pm »

Yes, I could not see how OND envisioned the CP to be accessed after the fact. He seemed to say to glue it all together. I went with a more conventional hinged top piece that does not wrap around the front. I'm currently in the process of making the CP right now.

I also have batons in front to mount it to the bottom. If you want to see how mine looks:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,149265.0.html

vaderag · « **Reply #469 on:** March 02, 2016, 05:44:10 pm »

Nice, thanks.

I think I'm going to try some kind of hybrid - saw a hinged magnet version which looks promising, with magnets holding it at the back and hinge on the bottom front so the whole lot opens outwards. ~~Darling~~ Failing (damn autocorrect!) that I'm going to go for bottom access I think...

With your top access, how are you fixing without having anything showing?

stigzler · « **Reply #470 on:** March 02, 2016, 05:51:30 pm »

I think you just got called darling, JudgeRob - you gotta answer now

JudgeRob · « **Reply #471 on:** March 02, 2016, 10:55:16 pm »

Lol, I've been called worse. I'm going to use "European" hinges, or whatever other name they're called on the front side. The panel will then pull up from the back, allowing easy access to everything. There's a lot of panels done this way. Chance's Flynn's Arcade comes to mind. I also like his "quick" disconnect handles for the bottom bolts in case the whole CP needs to come off.

vaderag · « **Reply #472 on:** March 03, 2016, 02:53:41 am »

I'll have to check that one out. Sounds roughly like I'm thinking, but the front panel will come too... How are you fixing it down with at the back?

vaderag · « **Reply #473 on:** March 03, 2016, 10:09:41 am »

Quote from: RxBrad on February 26, 2016, 12:28:57 pm

I'd suggest getting your threaded inserts from a non-arcade vendor.

Here's 100 of them for $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO

Buying them in bulk is pretty cheap, and you can find all kinds of useful places for them. I used them for my joysticks, to secure my monitor glass, to secure my monitor and speakers inside the cab, for attaching cable management clips inside my cab, for my marquee retainers... These things really are great.

I may be misinterpreting, but is this the same thing?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FLANGED-DRIVE-FLANGE-THREADED-INSERT/dp/B0193Y1QWE

and is 10mm the right size? Does that 10mm refer to the outer size or the size of the bolt i need to go in it? Because i'll need to source some of those too...

PL1 · « **Reply #474 on:** March 03, 2016, 03:26:02 pm »

Quote from: vaderag on March 03, 2016, 10:09:41 am

I may be misinterpreting, but is this the same thing?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FLANGED-DRIVE-FLANGE-THREADED-INSERT/dp/B0193Y1QWE

and is 10mm the right size? Does that 10mm refer to the outer size or the size of the bolt i need to go in it? Because i'll need to source some of those too...

The description reads "M4 x 10mm, FLANGED HEX DRIVE SCREW IN FLANGE THREADED INSERT FOR WOOD (Type D)".

M4 is the inner thread diameter, 10mm is the depth of the insert.

You will need M4 screws long enough to engage the insert, but not so long that they poke too far through the back.

For example, M4x15mm screws would work with a Happ/IL stick (10mm of insert + 6mm of mounting plate = 16mm) but might be a bit long for a Sanwa/Seimitsu stick (10mm of insert + 1.6mm of mounting plate = 11.6mm)

Scott
EDIT: Compared M4 screws to the ones that come with the GGG inserts.

The GGG inserts are closer to these M5 x 10mm inserts.

JudgeRob · « **Reply #475 on:** March 03, 2016, 04:00:24 pm »

Quote

How are you fixing it down with at the back?

Same. Threaded inserts with machine screws. Probably ones that can be tightened by hand.

FYI - My local hardware store has lots of threaded inserts. They are fairly common. I think I pay 50 cents each. Probably cheaper over Amazon, so long as you don't get hosed on the shipping. I like the store cause I can see them first.

vaderag · « **Reply #476 on:** March 04, 2016, 08:13:53 am »

Quote from: JudgeRob on March 03, 2016, 04:00:24 pm

Quote
How are you fixing it down with at the back?

Same. Threaded inserts with machine screws. Probably ones that can be tightened by hand.

So you will have the bolts showing on the top of the cp at the back then?

And thanks for the info PL1!

JudgeRob · « **Reply #477 on:** March 04, 2016, 12:24:11 pm »

Oh, no. I'm not sure it needs to be latched as it will be pretty heavy. I might do a magnet if necessary. I'm not sure what other people have done.

vaderag · « **Reply #478 on:** April 02, 2016, 02:39:14 pm »

Finally got a nice day with no rain forecast so managed to get some woodwork done today!
It wasn't a full day unfortunately as I had a fence to fix from some recent storms, but the woodwork is underway

Got all of the rough cuts done so essentially at a good base point where I don't have to lug around 8x4's any more, and the best thing is, it's starting to look like an arcade cabinet

Oh, and i discovered that my new favorite tool is a jigsaw!! So much fun to use!

Biggest lesson from today... circular saw blades are thicker and more destructive than you think... leave more space from your lines than you think!!

Question: Any reason not to use a Jigsaw for the inner curves, rather than freehand routing them?

billgatesmate · « **Reply #479 on:** April 23, 2016, 11:12:44 pm »

Hey guys, question for you all. How do you interpret the build plans? I'm trying to draw out the shape on MDF at the moment but I'm a bit stumped.

The control panel starts at 33" and then we draw in 7". The it's vertical up to 38". But the angle 15deg is confusing. Mainly because it's definitely not 15% from there

So then I'm thinking it's 15deg from the other angel. But I essentially have no frame of reference to draw that middle monitor flat piece.

It would be nice if there was horizontal measurements so the angles became largely irrelevant.

Is everyone using these plans a little free-style or I have just missed something obvious?


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