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Electrical Question
DaOld Man:
--- Quote from: dcmyers on March 05, 2012, 12:04:24 pm ---I mean I guess I could try using a smart strip but again, I would only need two outlets. There's always the idea of taking a hacksaw to the end of a smart strip ;D Are there cheaper alternatives to Bits Limited's popular SCG model?
--- End quote ---
I highly insist that you never cut the end off a power strip.
There is the danger of shorting it out and unless you properly insulate the cut off section, it will have exposed power bars, which can be a shock and a fire hazard.
IMHO, it would be a bad idea. (Im sure you are joking but just in case, I had to throw in my two cents.)
Le Chuck:
--- Quote from: DaOld Man on March 06, 2012, 09:32:33 pm ---
--- Quote from: dcmyers on March 05, 2012, 12:04:24 pm ---I mean I guess I could try using a smart strip but again, I would only need two outlets. There's always the idea of taking a hacksaw to the end of a smart strip ;D Are there cheaper alternatives to Bits Limited's popular SCG model?
--- End quote ---
I highly insist that you never cut the end off a power strip.
There is the danger of shorting it out and unless you properly insulate the cut off section, it will have exposed power bars, which can be a shock and a fire hazard.
IMHO, it would be a bad idea. (Im sure you are joking but just in case, I had to throw in my two cents.)
--- End quote ---
DaOld Man gives sage advice. I cut a belkin smart strip down to just three outlets and although it is not a technically difficult undertaking if you don't have a good grasp of what's going on inside the strip you could fail to remove or reinsulate something important.
EvilGreenDevil:
Definitely joking about taking a hacksaw to an electrical strip...sorry if there was any confusion I thought my sarcasm was a little more obvious. Regardless, I ended up taking the same approach as was suggested in that wonderful "chicken scratch". I am ready to strip and solder the female end of an extension cord into the inside of the power outlet. I got this one:
I'm ASSUMING that soldering the wires from the cut female end to the three prongs on the side of the inlet is all i need to do (I'll add some hot glue also). What has me questioning this are the three additional prongs that protrude from the back of the fuse switch. I'm far from being anything close to an electrician so I thought I would ask.
bkenobi:
I'm not an electrician and I've only installed an unfused and unswitched IEC plug, but here's how I think it should be wired up.
Power from wall -> IEC plug -> fuse -> switch -> your device (power)
Neutral from wall -> IEC plug -> your device (neutral)
Ground from wall -> IEC plug -> your device (ground pin) and any other devices in the cabinet that need earth ground (e.g., metal cp)
I'm not even going to try chicken scratch!
BobA:
The 4 terminals behind the switch are the contacts for the switch. It is a DPST arrangemnet so you can switch the line and neutral. The line is connected so it goes thru the fuse so they have provided one terminal and made a solid connection to the fuse from the line side of your socket.
To use the switch you need a wire from the one terminal on the fuse to the switch. The other pole of the switch needs to be connected to your neutral. This will give you Line and Neutral on the swiitch. Your connections go to one side of the switch and will power the 2 terminals on the other side when the switch is closed. These are the 2 terminals that carry power to your modified extension cord.
The ground of your ext cord can be connected directly to the ground on the back which is the connector behind the plug that corresponds to the ground connection on your IEC connector