Author Topic: Building an Xbox powered arcade cabinet from scratch (Read 34841 times)

degenatrons · « **Reply #40 on:** June 03, 2012, 02:46:34 pm »

Quote from: rablack97 on June 02, 2012, 03:17:05 pm

Quote from: degenatrons on June 02, 2012, 03:04:45 pm
Quote from: ark_ader on June 02, 2012, 02:58:54 pm
Where is your controller hack?
I built my own encoder so don't need a hack. More info in the coming videos.

I might also show the gamepad hack method.

Wow, so did you work out the bugs and kinks for the xbox encoder, if so, put me down for 4 of them

Also, I have a question, If the computer monitor totally loses power, and the power button needs to be hit to turn it back on, did you have a plan on how to get it back on w/o totally opeing up the machine?

Yep, xbox encoder is working now, I would like to make a few improvements though. If you like what you see in my demo video then i am happy to send you 4!

For the monitor, there are a few things, on some of the Dell ones, the button is slight pronounced, so you can push the screen and that switches on/off. It works better if you have a pads (double sided sticky pads) between monitor and bezel. Bezel should not be directly touching the monitor.
On some monitors, after a switch off at the wall plug, they do not come back on. My solution is to jam the monitor button down so the switch is alway on. This can be done physically, my screwing it down, or by soldering it to be a permanently closed switch. These methods have worked fine for all monitors I have used so far.

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #41 on:** June 03, 2012, 05:33:14 pm »

wow lots of progress all looking good

whens part 7 out and does that show the xbox encoder control method

if these work like ide like them to then ill take 2 aswell there looking great as mame controllers

but definately better as xbox controllers

degenatrons · « **Reply #42 on:** June 03, 2012, 06:24:22 pm »

Part 7 should be out in a few hours. Just editing it now. It will not have the encoder in this part. Part 7 will cover mounting the xbox parts in the cabinet.

I will include the controller stuff in part 8. Hopefully you guys wont be waiting too long for that. Thanks for your patience.

degenatrons · « **Reply #43 on:** June 03, 2012, 08:02:58 pm »

Part 7 video is out...

In this video we fit the xbox motherboard, psu, hdd and other xbox parts into the cabinet. These parts were removed from the xbox in my part 1 video.

This is a fairly straightforward one.

In my next video ( part 8 ) I will fit connect the control panel to the xbox. This feature has been requested a lot!
I will also connect up an arcade button to control the xbox power - by soldering a wire to the on/off board.

emphatic · « **Reply #44 on:** June 04, 2012, 05:22:59 am »

Nice work, man!

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #45 on:** June 05, 2012, 11:28:28 pm »

WoW again awsome video

have subscribed and will use for future reference

Keep up the great work

rablack97 · « **Reply #46 on:** June 25, 2012, 08:40:14 am »

Ok, I've noticed that when the xobx powers down it leaves the monitor in the screensaver mode, where the RBG square thingy floats all over the screen. It never goes away. DO you think there needs to be a main power switch added to the cab, so you can shut off the monitor?

I guess this is for those folks who don't have a 12v Monitor such as yourself, my monitors dont use a brick and take straight 110v from the plug.

Any suggestions?

johnm · « **Reply #47 on:** June 25, 2012, 03:23:39 pm »

You could always fit a 12v powered relay/coil, when the xbox powers on it activates the relay which allows power to the monitor.

degenatrons · « **Reply #48 on:** June 25, 2012, 03:51:34 pm »

Quote from: johnm on June 25, 2012, 03:23:39 pm

You could always fit a 12v powered relay/coil, when the xbox powers on it activates the relay which allows power to the monitor.

Yep. I got a 5V relay in the post today. I ordered from ebay. It is 2 way so can handle 2 different voltages e.g. 12v and 110v.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261032683953?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Cheap eh!

My plan is to hook this up to one of my minimus AVR which runs of 5V power. It will wait 12 seconds (to avoid flubber) and then output 5V power to one of the pins. The pin will be connected to this relay and will turn on power to monitor and other peripherals.
I got the minimus to output sound to a connected 8ohm speaker (or piezo buzzer) during that first 12 seconds. I got it playing Axel F tune. It sounds loud enough without amplification but I might connect to the amp in the cab anyhow.

When I have this working I will put up some instructions.

rablack97 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 25, 2012, 05:40:31 pm »

Quote from: johnm on June 25, 2012, 03:23:39 pm

You could always fit a 12v powered relay/coil, when the xbox powers on it activates the relay which allows power to the monitor.

What the heck is that, can you give me a link?

rablack97 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 25, 2012, 05:54:22 pm »

Quote from: johnm on June 25, 2012, 03:23:39 pm

You could always fit a 12v powered relay/coil, when the xbox powers on it activates the relay which allows power to the monitor.

Will this work on 110 volt, i'm not very good at electrical....

Delay Timer

PL1 · « **Reply #51 on:** June 25, 2012, 06:56:17 pm »

Quote from: rablack97 on June 25, 2012, 05:40:31 pm

Quote from: johnm on June 25, 2012, 03:23:39 pm

You could always fit a 12v powered relay/coil, when the xbox powers on it activates the relay which allows power to the monitor.

What the heck is that, can you give me a link?

A relay works like a light switch, but instead of you moving the switch lever, a magnetic field moves the lever.

He's talking about using the Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) relay shown here.

The top of the coil (spring-looking part on left) is connected to the 12v wire from the X-Box and the bottom is connected to ground.
Connect 5v to A1 and 110v hot (black wire) to A2. (Or whatever voltages you want switched.)
Connect B1 to the circuit you want to power with 5v.
Connect B2 to the circuit you want to power with 110v.

When the X-Box powers up, the 12v passing through the coil generates a magnetic field that closes the switches. (Picture a magnet pulling on the dotted line.) A1 connects to B1, powering the desired 5v circuits. A2 connects to B2, powering the desired 110v circuits.

As long as the X-Box provides 12v, the relay keeps the switches on.

When you shut off the X-Box, 12v isn't produced any more, and the switches return to the open position, shutting off the 5v and 110v circuits.

Scott

rablack97 · « **Reply #52 on:** June 25, 2012, 08:14:22 pm »

Think you can point me to a part.....

Also, so mine in the link won't work with 110v?

PL1 · « **Reply #53 on:** June 25, 2012, 09:30:06 pm »

Quote from: rablack97 on June 25, 2012, 08:14:22 pm

Think you can point me to a part.....

Also, so mine in the link won't work with 110v?

By "work with 110v" do you mean the coil, or the A1/B1, A2/B2 contacts?

The relay contacts (A1/B1, A2/B2 ) on your link are rated for up to 250VAC.

The coil on your link is a 12V DC coil. (That one is not designed for 110V AC, but there are some that are. Try searching for 110vac relay.)

Here's one that will work with 110VAC for the coil--if you don't need the 0-30 second delay.
(Disclaimer: I have not used this model, just going by the data on e-Bay.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JQX-13F-2Z-110VAC-Coil-Contact-Relay-/290648067614

In this image from e-Bay, the contacts (right quarter of the image) relate to DPDT below as follows:

1 - B1 - Normally closed contact (Not used)
2 - B2 - Normally closed contact (Not used)
3 - A1 - Voltage 1 output
4 - A2 - Voltage 2 output
5 - C1 - Voltage 1 input
6 - C2 - Voltage 2 input
7 - Bottom of the coil - AC white wire.
8 - Top of the coil - AC black wire

Scott

rablack97 · « **Reply #54 on:** June 26, 2012, 10:14:36 am »

Question?

What if i take this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261032683953?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

And couple it with http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-H3Y-2-Delay-Timer-Time-Relay-0-10-Second-12VDC-Base-/290688252449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43ae5eba21

connect 5v to the delay timer after 10seconds send 5v to relay, relay to complete circuits for 110v monitor and 12v amp?

rablack97 · « **Reply #55 on:** July 04, 2012, 03:25:20 pm »

Thanks to PL1, I can now power on the xbox with a 10 sec delay to the monitor and the amp.

I adjusted the delay to around 7-8 secs, after power on so the flubber animation and the xbox intro sound are not seen or heard.

I will have the marquee power up once the button is pressed and then delay to the amp and monitor with a boot straight into CoinOPs

dandare · « **Reply #56 on:** July 05, 2012, 11:11:21 pm »

That poor 'ol xbox logo. what did it ever do to you?

Seriously though, amazing build and documentation going on here.

degenatrons · « **Reply #57 on:** July 06, 2012, 02:55:42 pm »

Here's part 8 of the guide...

In this video, I connect up the arcade controls using that hacked smartjoy thing from my other thread.

I wire up a balltop joystick, 8 arcade buttons on the top of the controls panel (A, B, X, Y, Left Trigger, Right Trigger, Start and Back) and 2 buttons on the front of the panel (Back and Start). I also wire up an arcade button for use as an xbox on/off switch.

For testing, I have been using the xbox controller test tool.

I also move the xbox fan to the back of the cabinet, ready for mounting in the rear panel. I have some bigger 5V and 12V fans which I might swap out later.

Here's the video...

rablack97 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 06, 2012, 04:23:43 pm »

Sweet....need to get back to building mine got side tracked with the stinking encoder....LOL

rablack97 · « **Reply #59 on:** July 08, 2012, 12:45:51 am »

Found these 4" iron speaker covers, 1.50 a piece, I ordered 10 for 1.25 a piece.

These look really good, alternate option to the drilling. International shipping.

http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover&Store_Code=8line

degenatrons · « **Reply #60 on:** July 10, 2012, 06:18:44 pm »

Quote from: rablack97 on July 08, 2012, 12:45:51 am

Found these 4" iron speaker covers, 1.50 a piece, I ordered 10 for 1.25 a piece.

These look really good, alternate option to the drilling. International shipping.

http://www.8linesupply.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=iron-speaker-cover&Store_Code=8line

Cool. I think I will put together a reference page for parts on my site. This is useful info. Cheers.

degenatrons · « **Reply #61 on:** July 11, 2012, 08:38:54 am »

I made up a CAD template for the cabinet design and had all the panels professionally cut on a CNC machine.
The machine drills all the holes for the speakers, monitor mount (VESA 100) and vent holes too. I even got the CNC machine to route the edges of the side panels.

This lot arrived in the post today.

I think it is looking pretty sweet.

I plan to sell these in a reasonably priced arcade kit so that it is easier for people to start out on a project.
The kits would have other options including...
* acrylic cut to size(for bezel and marquee)
* artwork (for CP and marquee) printed on self-adhesive laminated vinyl
* encoder and wiring harness (?possibly)

I would be interested in feedback on this. What would you be prepared to pay for a basic kit?

FritzsCorner · « **Reply #62 on:** December 20, 2012, 11:57:03 pm »

First off I wanted to thank you for the great tutorial! I have been running CoinOps on my Xbox for a few months now and recently installed Vision. I decided it was time to wrap it all up into one nice package and that is when I found your guide on building an xbox based Bartop. I noticed you have a few more videos on your youtube channel that are not posted here, but I didn't see anything in regards to installing the monitor bezel. Where would it mount to exactly so that it doesn't touch the monitor? Any tricks or suggestions? I see you have been quite busy with the KADE kickstarter project, which I am also very excited about.

Thanks again!

Aaron

rablack97 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 21, 2012, 12:02:06 am »

There is no monitor bezel on his builds. I followed the same build and just painted the the outer edges of the plexi black. The plexi just lays on top of the the monitor. It should sit a bit below the CP top rear, when you install the cp it helps to keep the plexi snug and in place.

FritzsCorner · « **Reply #64 on:** December 21, 2012, 11:23:53 am »

Thanks rablack97.. the plexi is what I was referring to.. I am still new to all of this

I was going to mask off and paint the outer edges of the plexi as you suggested, I just wasn't sure how it sat in place. From what you are saying though, it sounds like it stays in place by wedging up against the CP and the speaker bar mount area. I wasn't sure if there were any slot's or other pieces that needed to help keep it in place.

I went out and bought the woood last night and was going to spend some time this weekend mocking up the cab in cardboard. I have planned on increasing the width to be about 19" to more comfortably fit 2 player 6 or 8 button controls. I just need to figure out the CP artwork stuff now.. I am absolutely rubbish at any sort of graphic design.

rablack97 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 21, 2012, 12:10:56 pm »

Yep your correct...that's how mine stays put, looks good and simple.....

If your near a lowes or home depot...go to the area where you can rebuild screen windows...you will see this black stripping that looks like a miniature marquee holder.

I tacked that to the top of the CP so it made a lip that slip over the plexi and filled in that gap between the CP and the Plexi....

If i find photos i'll post....

degenatrons · « **Reply #66 on:** January 22, 2013, 03:16:21 pm »

Part 10 is finally out!!

Apologies for the delay in getting this video out. It's been a long while since the last update and this video was actually recorded at the end of September. For those who have been waiting, thanks for your patience. I've had a shave since then.

In this part, I fit the back panel, which is actually quite easy, it is drilled with holes for the air vents and has a cut out for the Xbox fan. You can download a template for my back panel from https://sites.google.com/site/degenatrons/home/arcade-kits/back_panel.pdf
Rather than mount the amp on the outside of the cabinet, I opted for a simple access door, fitted with recessed hinges. This also provides a convenient place to hold the cabinet when picking up and moving around.

I mount the fan backwards so that air is pulled into the cabinet rather than blown out of it. I think it cools better this way, but you can mount it whichever way you like.

Refer to part 3 of the series to get the plans and dimensions for the back panel and the acrylic sheet.

Music is courtesy of http://danosongs.com - with a cameo from me in the middle

Also, I just realised that I never posted part 9 to this thread. So here's part 9 too. Be sure to watch 9 first!

mike boss · « **Reply #67 on:** September 30, 2013, 10:11:57 pm »

To bump an old thread ....................

This is a great thread and great tutorial videos.
Really great work and I thank you for taking the time to share.
I've purchased my KADE units and think an XBOX powered bartop is my next project.

Thank you and keep up the awesome work.

degenatrons · « **Reply #68 on:** October 02, 2013, 11:38:56 am »

Quote from: mike boss on September 30, 2013, 10:11:57 pm

To bump an old thread ....................

This is a great thread and great tutorial videos.
Really great work and I thank you for taking the time to share.
I've purchased my KADE units and think an XBOX powered bartop is my next project.

Thank you and keep up the awesome work.

and good luck with the xbox project Mike.

mike boss · « **Reply #69 on:** October 02, 2013, 12:03:11 pm »

Thank you


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