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Author Topic: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula  (Read 47175 times)

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TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #80 on: May 07, 2012, 09:16:18 am »
on the trackball hole - get it drilled the size you want in a piece of scrap wood.  then, use the piece of wood to guide a router in cutting the circle flush or beveled as you like. Most times a 3" hole saw will not get a nice hole done in 1/8" plastic. 

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #81 on: May 07, 2012, 09:46:52 am »
Good idea.  I will use the router for the trackball hole in the plexi.  I am going to do it on scrap first as well.  I don't want to mess this up.

jammin0

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #82 on: May 07, 2012, 10:45:10 am »
Can't you just use your control panel hole for the template?  I'm assuming you already have the hole cut in your CP.  Clamp down your layers and use a flush trim bit in the router from the underside of your CP.  That way you know that all the other layers will be lined up.  From there you can use a chamfer cut on the top of the acrylic if you want.

(I haven't ever done this either so I'm by no means giving expert advice, just how I envisioned it :))

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #83 on: May 07, 2012, 11:01:13 am »
I actually won't be cutting a circle hole in the control panel because the trackball will be attached to a plate.  I will need one size circle for the middle layer (1/8" luan) and another size hole for the acrylic layer.

jammin0

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #84 on: May 07, 2012, 12:18:55 pm »
Got it.  That is what I was missing. :angel:

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #85 on: May 08, 2012, 09:14:48 pm »
As promised, here is a pic of the marquee all lit up from Souldraw.com


Here are the decals installed on the side.  I am thinking I should have gone bigger with these.  You live you learn.


I also started to drill the panel tonight but I hit a dead end.  I got a high quality hole saw bit to do it.  I sandwiched the acrylic between the 1/2" MDF and the 1/4" luan and started to drill.  I stopped after it started smoking.  I had my drill press on its fastest setting but it wouldn't get through.  I pulled up the bit and this is what it looked like.



Not sure what to do now.  What went wrong?  I am sure that I have seen a bunch of you guys cut your panels with hole saw bits.  What should I use?  A forstner?  A spade bit?  Should I just cut the MDF with the hole saw bit and then break out the plunge router to cut the plexi using the MDF as the template?  Help!

Junai

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #86 on: May 08, 2012, 09:36:11 pm »
Forstner bits are worth the extra money but can be a bit hard cutting plexi.  It would be easier and more reliable drilling the wood the.use a flush trime bit in a router to cut the plexi ( youll have to make a pilot hole in the plastic to get the bit in).

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #87 on: May 08, 2012, 10:59:57 pm »
1.  Drill a hole the size you want for your trackball opening into a piece of wood - like 3/4" plywood or MDF.  this is the template.  you may be able to do this with a hole saw but a router with a trammel guide (circle cutter) will let you get more exactly the hole size you need if it's not a common hole saw size.  Hole saws aren't that great for drilling thick wood and don't work for plastic at all.
2.  Carefully drill a small pilot hole, either with a 1/2" or 5/8" twist bit as needed to allow your bottom bearing flush cutting router bit to poke through - in the middle of the area in the plexi where the trackball hole will be.   Back this up with wood underneath the plexi and watch for melting, you can crack plex with heat build up.  basically make sure the bits cutting shavings of plastic, not melting globs of plastic.  vary the speed and pressure until you get white shavings of plastic. 
3.  Locate the template underneath your plexi where you want the hole to end up.
4.  C clamp everything together, very tightly, in alignment.  Double check/measure to confirm it's where you want.
5.  stick the router bit through the pilot hole.
6.  Route around the circumference of the hole in the template.  Go around a couple of times to make sure you've got a smooth cut.  keep the router base flat on the workpiece and don't let it tip to the side.  vary your feed rate as needed to avoid melting. 

You may be able to save that hole saw with the melted plastic by dipping it in acetone or laquer thinner to soften the burned plastic, then scraping it off with a piece of wood or something.  Check back if anything isn't clear. 

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #88 on: May 08, 2012, 11:02:49 pm »
If you've got 1/4" plexi, you'll need to look into a 45 degree chamfering or beveling bit to avoid a sharp edge around your trackball.  Route this before you unclamp your plex from your template, after the flush cut, for best results.  Thinnier plexi, not a big deal. 

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #89 on: May 09, 2012, 09:17:51 am »
I guess I will have to route the panel.  I thought it was going to be nice and easy to do with the drill press.  I probably will need a new sheet of plexi too.  I didn't even take apart the three pieces to see if the plexi was all burnt up.

zato1ch1

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #90 on: May 09, 2012, 10:48:11 am »
Lookin' sweet with the graphics in place. What did you use for the screen overlay, smoked plexi?

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #91 on: May 09, 2012, 11:06:40 am »
Lookin' sweet with the graphics in place. What did you use for the screen overlay, smoked plexi?

Thanks.   Yes it is 1/4" solar Grey plexi from Tap Plastics.

zato1ch1

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #92 on: May 09, 2012, 12:05:52 pm »
Thanks.   Yes it is 1/4" solar Grey plexi from Tap Plastics.

Sweet, that's prob what I'm going to go with. Do you find that it hides the wood bezel well, where the only thing really visible is the display?

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #93 on: May 09, 2012, 08:37:40 pm »
Well....I broke my plexiglass when I was trying to drill wuth the holesaw.  Had to go to the Depot for another sheet.  I got the mdf drilled out for the buttons and the joysticks using a forstner bit.  I will use that as a template to cut the plexi.  Question.  Should I just go at the plexi with a pattern bit or should I drill holes and drop in a flush cutting bit?

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #94 on: May 09, 2012, 10:07:20 pm »
Not sure what you mean by pattern bit.  if you mean a self drilling pilot point bit designed for paneling, or a rotozip thing, no, I wouldn't recommend it.  Predrill a hole for a flush cutting bit that is bearing guided. 

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #95 on: May 09, 2012, 10:14:29 pm »
A pattern bit is what is used to cut dovetails when using a jig or for cutting a recess for a trackball mounting plate.   You can plunge it unlike a flush trim bit.
« Last Edit: May 10, 2012, 08:11:46 am by GregD »

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #96 on: May 09, 2012, 10:16:48 pm »
Don't plunge a router bit through the plex, you'll get more burning/melting.  drill the hole with a sharp bit and use a flush trim bearing guided bit. 

DaOld Man

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #97 on: May 09, 2012, 10:36:59 pm »
Good project. I like the marquee, and agree the side art could be a tad bigger, but i like it too.
I have found that hole saws are not very good at drilling through MDF. the sawdust packs up between the hole saw teeth and the holesaw quits cutting, so it starts getting hot.
If you use a hole saw, I think it is best to drill a little, then remove the saw and clean out the teeth. It is very time consuming, but sometimes you may have to use it for big holes if thats all you got. (A shop vac works good for cleaning the teeth, unless the saw is hot enough to burn the sawdust, then you have to use a toothpick or similar to get the crusted dust out of the teeth.)
I have found a spade bit cuts through mdf pretty good, but you need a piece of scrap beneath the piece being drilled or the bottom of the mdf piece may try to splinter when the spade breaks through.
I have also found spade bits do well on plexi, if you clamp the plexi between two pieces of wood and drill through one layer of wood and through the plexi.
But by far the router is the best, following TopJimmyCooks procedure.

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #98 on: May 09, 2012, 10:42:28 pm »
I use a little brass bristle toothbrush when I have to deal with a gummy holesaw. 

Sideart on an evo cab is tough, the aspect ratio is less automatically pleasing for art.  my cab doesn't have any sideart, just some painted pattern.  I like the size of the decal.  I might go around the edges with a fine point black sharpie so the white of the vinyl backing doesn't show so much/blends in more to the black background. 

yaksplat

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #99 on: May 11, 2012, 02:38:21 pm »
Which materials did you select when you ordered from souldraw.com?  I'm considering ordering from them as well

I'm trying to decide if the CP overlay should just be a poster print since it's going to be covered with plexi.
Check out my current 3 machine build:
http://yaksplat.wordpress.com

Custom Control Panels: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121245

kahlid74

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #100 on: May 11, 2012, 03:26:00 pm »
TopJimmy has great advice but if you want to drill Plexi/plastic you need to read the pinned topic in woodworking about drilling plastics.  Essentially the guy in there tells you that you want to go slow with a dull bit.  You essentially want to "scrape" the plastic away.  The problem with hole saw's is that scraping with them on Plexis is sometimes difficult.

I've had great success on plexis with Forstner at the slowest speed my drill press can go at or my Dremel Trio and it's circle attachment.  That way I can keep it a "perfect" circle.

So yeah, if you want to use a drill, go read the Plastics thread and follow the advice that guys gives about drilling/cutting plastic.

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #101 on: May 11, 2012, 04:14:28 pm »
Which materials did you select when you ordered from souldraw.com?  I'm considering ordering from them as well

I'm trying to decide if the CP overlay should just be a poster print since it's going to be covered with plexi.

The CPO and sideart were vinyl decals. The marquee is Backlit Pvc Film.

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #102 on: May 11, 2012, 04:21:26 pm »
TopJimmy has great advice but if you want to drill Plexi/plastic you need to read the pinned topic in woodworking about drilling plastics.  Essentially the guy in there tells you that you want to go slow with a dull bit.  You essentially want to "scrape" the plastic away.  The problem with hole saw's is that scraping with them on Plexis is sometimes difficult.

I've had great success on plexis with Forstner at the slowest speed my drill press can go at or my Dremel Trio and it's circle attachment.  That way I can keep it a "perfect" circle.

So yeah, if you want to use a drill, go read the Plastics thread and follow the advice that guys gives about drilling/cutting plastic.

I got it all finished up today.  I just drilled each button and joystick hole withna regular twist bit and then i used the flush cutting router bit to finish it off.  I did the same with the trackball hole.

What do you all do tonsecure the plexi to the control panel top?  Will the buttons themselves be adequate to hold it down or should I put some screws in the corners?

yaksplat

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #103 on: May 11, 2012, 04:43:49 pm »
Two options.  You can use very small carriage bolts or the combination of buttons and then the tmolding around the edge will hold it in place.  My tmolding ended up being a bit wider than the plywood that i used so i offset the groove so the tmolding spans the ply and plexi.  I may still have to use carriage bolts though.  I need to finish my art first.
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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #104 on: May 12, 2012, 09:29:54 am »
Late to the party on your holes in plexi question but I have only ever used a panel pilot bit to make my holes.
It's basically a drill bit/trimming bit in one..
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30184&cat=1,46168,46171

As for securing it, the buttons and t-mold will take care of that. I've never had an issue with the plexi trying to lift up.

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #105 on: May 15, 2012, 04:27:33 pm »
I probably should figure this one out myself but anyways.... I am going to start wiring my panel (first time doing this).  I figured that I would use some sort of terminal block for the ground wires from each switch and then just run a couple of grounds into the KeyWiz.  Can anyone point me to the right type of terminal block?  I will be using 24ga wire.  Terminal blocks do this right.  I can put a bunch of grounds in one side and then just have one coming out the other???  Thanks

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #106 on: May 15, 2012, 04:42:31 pm »
GGG's got fully enclosed euro terminals.  Auto parts stores have divided terminal strips.  Radio shack has euro's for eye watering prices.  or you could just use a wirenut or solder >:D

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #107 on: May 16, 2012, 08:21:10 am »
Ugh.  I finished the control panel top.  Got the joysticks and trackball mounted and went to fit it on the control panel box but found that I didn't account for the bolts from the trackball plate when sizing the box.  The bolts will not fit inside the control panel box.  Now I have to rebuild the box or somehow extend it out an inch or so.  Just when I was seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.....

Los Abrazos Rotos

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #108 on: May 16, 2012, 08:53:51 am »
Could you just cut the bolts down a little?

TopJimmyCooks

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #109 on: May 16, 2012, 09:04:12 am »
Drill clearance holes in the bottom inside of the cp - no biggie. 

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #110 on: May 16, 2012, 09:20:03 am »
Won't work.  I need about an inch or more depth to the box.  I will figure out a way to extend it in an aesthetically pleasing way  :)

yaksplat

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #111 on: May 16, 2012, 09:34:27 am »
Post a picture of what you have going on there.  I'm having a hard time picturing it....
Check out my current 3 machine build:
http://yaksplat.wordpress.com

Custom Control Panels: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121245

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #112 on: May 16, 2012, 09:58:03 am »
Post a picture of what you have going on there.  I'm having a hard time picturing it....

Here is a crude illustration of what is going on.  The trackball case itself fit nicely inside the box but the mounting plate bolts do not. 


yaksplat

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #113 on: May 16, 2012, 11:32:30 am »
I had this happen on one of my builds.  I ended up drilling a hole/slot in the cp box to make room for the bolt.  Fortunately it was contained within the ply so it wasn't visible from the outside.
Check out my current 3 machine build:
http://yaksplat.wordpress.com

Custom Control Panels: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121245

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #114 on: May 16, 2012, 11:36:23 am »
I think I am going to append a kerfed rounded piece onto the front of the box to match the profile of the control panel top.  I was going to hinge the control panel top in the front so I may need to find another method.

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #115 on: May 16, 2012, 11:40:54 am »
Lots-o-ways to go about it.

If it were me, I'd route (or drill) a recess into the area where the nut fastens and cut off the bolt even or below the underside of the CP panel.

Excellent build btw.  :cheers:

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #116 on: May 16, 2012, 11:46:25 am »
Lots-o-ways to go about it.

If it were me, I'd route (or drill) a recess into the area where the nut fastens and cut off the bolt even or below the underside of the CP panel.

Excellent build btw.  :cheers:


Hmm.  I will look into this idea although the mdf is only 1/2" thick.  Might be a little difficult but I am going to try it.  Thanks for the idea and the compliment.

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #117 on: May 16, 2012, 12:19:49 pm »
Agree with Badmouth, counterbore your nut.  even if you only have an 1/8" of mdf left, there's no pullout load on a trackball so it will hold fine.  On my previous comment I thought you were saying the nut holding the TB assembly to the mounting plate was fouling the bottom of the cp case, but you were saying the plate to cp top bolt was fouling the front of the CP case.  I didn't read it right. 

GregD

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #118 on: May 17, 2012, 10:07:21 pm »
I made some progress on the control panel today.  I have everything drilled, the cpo applied, the t molding on and all the controls mounted. I should be wiring this weekend.  I just need to hinge the control panel somehow and clean up all of the components and wires inside the cabinet.  Here are some awful cell phone pics. Thanks





« Last Edit: May 18, 2012, 08:01:24 am by GregD »

yaksplat

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Re: First Build - Slim Cabinet - Arcade Nebula
« Reply #119 on: May 18, 2012, 07:40:43 am »
I used European style hinges on my builds.  They work out very well and allow the panel to lift up and out, allowing for clearance from the front of the control panel box.  They're also very easy to install and adjust.
Check out my current 3 machine build:
http://yaksplat.wordpress.com

Custom Control Panels: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=121245