Author Topic: New testgrid video for hantarex MTC 900/e monitor (Read 9327 times)

Bramlet · « **on:** January 30, 2012, 09:19:36 pm »

I posted some pictures in the picture thread, but I don't know how to link them. I'll attach again till I figure out what they want me to do.

The sticker is too faded to read a monitor model number. Can you tell by these pictures? Also does this blackened resistor look right? The monitor works fine but intermittently gets jittery and bouncy. straight lines turn into something more resembling an EKG from some sort of noise or interference or something. Grounding issue?

I've got some videos over on http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=117591.0
but the camera doesn't record fast enough to accurately show the symptom.

Any help is appreciated, I've been watching all the arcade repair videos and trying to get up to speed, but I don't know too much about these machines.

mgb · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2012, 09:46:46 pm »

Its a Hanterex MTC 900E

Heres some more info:
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=51240

http://www.therealbobroberts.net/900e.html

also here is a repair guide by Ken Layton, he's typically over at the Klov forums in the monitors section. Try and contact him, he's very helpful.
http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico/_kenskorner/files/Hantarex_MTC900E_repair_guide.pdf

Bramlet · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2012, 05:22:58 pm »

Looks like I need somebody to verify that I am not a spammer to join those arcade museum forums. I've tried to join over there. Same user name. Was hoping to find out more about this jitter. I'm still not sure how to film it. Maybe my camera will show better than my phone.

grantspain · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2012, 05:51:02 pm »

more than likely caps,
that burn on the resistor maybe just some old glue-you would need to remove one end from circuit and read using a multimeter

mgb · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2012, 07:20:55 pm »

I know Ken Layton over on Klov talks about some cap issues with that monitor.
I've seen others complain about not being able to join at klov forums, thats weird.

Bramlet · « **Reply #5 on:** February 04, 2012, 01:17:44 pm »

Linking the manual for this Hantarex MTC900/E here so I can find it again: http://mameandcoinop.xoom.it//mameandcoinop/utility/MTC900E.pdf

Bramlet · « **Reply #6 on:** February 05, 2012, 09:27:55 am »

Using the repair guide above from Ken Layton I have created this cap kit buyers guide.

Buy: four 100μf@25volt, two 2.2μf@63volt, eight 10μf@50volt, five 4.7μf@63volt, one 47μf@200volt, two 4.7μf@250volt, one 22μf@50volt, two 47μf@25volt, two 220μf@16volt.

mgb · « **Reply #7 on:** February 05, 2012, 09:40:48 am »

Bob Roberts has cap kits for the Hantarex mtc 900e. they're $6.

Bramlet · « **Reply #8 on:** February 05, 2012, 11:14:09 am »

I probably don't want to know how much it would cost to pick up at radio shack. I'm not sure how to order with bobroberts, but I guess you have to call him. Any other options?

karnov64 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 05, 2012, 11:55:05 am »

be careful with cap kits for hantarex monitors

i once bought a cap kit for hantarex mtc 9000, but it turned out some of my cap values were different from the caps included in the kit. i was noob and installed the caps anyway as per the instructions, and ended up blowing something because of the wrong value caps

so be careful when changing caps as there seems to be some changes between boards/revisions regarding hantarex arcade monitors

mgb · « **Reply #10 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:21:25 pm »

With Bob Roberts, just find what you want on his site and email him stating how many of waht you'd like to order. he will then email back with the total including shipping and his address. you then send him the check and he sends your items. On future orders he will typically cross ship (he does for me) which means he will ship the items before your check gets to him. It sounds like a pain in the butt, but I like ordering from Bob and I get my parts in 2 days every time. Thats more than I can say for most others.

You won't find all of the needed caps at radio shack. They don't carry anything rated over 35volts.

Like Karnov64 said, be careful anytime doing a cap kit because its always possible to get a wrong value or something.

when actually installing the caps, do it one at a time. make sure to pay attention to polarity of each cap. Most chassis boards are marked for cap polarity with a dot which marks the negative. and caps themselves are marked on the side for negative and they also have one longer leg which is positive.
before removing any old caps from the board, always make sure that the way the caps are installed and the way they are marked for (polarity), is the same. I've heard of some monitors that are marked wrong.
Bob Roberts kits come with good instructions that should state known issues.

Bramlet · « **Reply #11 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:07:15 pm »

I've finished pulling the chassis. Getting a closer look at the burned out resistor it looks like melted plastic from the thing next to it. What is that melted part that looks like a little stove pipe? Should it be replaced?

Bramlet · « **Reply #12 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:10:46 pm »

If I have caps that are rated 105 degrees does that mean this monitor already had a cap kit?

grantspain · « **Reply #13 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:16:48 pm »

that component looks like the linearity coil-never seen one melted though
you would need to read it with a meter to check it still has continuity

Bramlet · « **Reply #14 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:26:39 pm »

It looks like resistor 109 got hot and melted the thing. Here is what the little wire looks like now. The monitor was still working but sometimes got jittery, a problem that got worse when I touched the adjustment pots. If this coil part wasn't working right would it cause any obvious problems I am not having?

Bramlet · « **Reply #15 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:37:55 pm »

area under resistor 109

Bramlet · « **Reply #16 on:** February 07, 2012, 03:41:18 pm »

Even to my untrained eyes I see some pretty some pretty scary solder joints. But I would like other opinions.

karnov64 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 07, 2012, 09:28:29 pm »

fyi if all else fails try getting help at the link below, these guys are great:

http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forum_topics.asp?FID=2&title=tech-maintenance-repairs

mgb · « **Reply #18 on:** February 08, 2012, 09:43:04 am »

The burnt component looks to be the Horizontal Width coil.
It could be possible that an issue with that component would give an issue like your explaining.
It wouldn't hurt to replace it while you're doing a cap kit.
If you replace the horizontal width coil, you will need to adjust it after, it looks like you can adjust it with a regular allen key but Don't. It will heat up and burn you. Instead use a plastic alignment set like this http://www.therealbobroberts.net/7pc.jpg

Bramlet · « **Reply #19 on:** February 09, 2012, 12:28:41 pm »

OK I give up, I can't find any info on these linearity coils. Where can I find a replacement? Do they come in different sizes or can I source from another old TV? I can give the Hantarex part number but I don't think anybody has them.

Hatarex part number 28040020 Linearity coil. Location --BINGO! Either that, or I was attempting to say "before" but it was too many letters to type--

mgb · « **Reply #20 on:** February 09, 2012, 04:24:39 pm »

Try Chad over at Arcadecup. He's very helpful.
http://www.arcadecup.com/

Remember at this point, its not definite that the linearity coil is even bad. It just may be that the plastic is just a little melted.

In your pics, those caps look pretty new. My bet is that the previous owner had a cap kit done.

Bramlet · « **Reply #21 on:** February 09, 2012, 05:29:39 pm »

If I wanted to test the coil, would I have to take it all the way out or could I check continuity from the top little coil and maybe one of the pins underneath?

Also for the resistors, if I wanted to replace, say resistor 109, what kind of replacement should I use. I don't think I can find the old type, (is that carbon type?) What kind of resistor should I use? What about the little pedestals some resistors go in, are they to keep hot resistors up and away from the board?

Bramlet · « **Reply #22 on:** February 09, 2012, 05:31:29 pm »

Also, I think I will need a source for the adjustment pots which I think may contain loose joints inside of them. What kind of replacements can I use?

Bramlet · « **Reply #23 on:** February 10, 2012, 08:44:51 am »

I fixed a grounding issue with my coin door, and put the monitor back together to make sure I haven't made anything worse. It is unchanged. It's really not that bad though, and I am probably ready to mame it. I made another video of it, it wasn't very jittery until I stopped filming and really started to mash the buttons. The memory card was full so I didn't film it, but I will catch it soon.

Here is the video after I put everything back together:

Bramlet · « **Reply #24 on:** February 11, 2012, 04:03:09 pm »

just got mame running on the jpac and now ive lost all red. no loose wires, it was working but ive been making a lot of adjustments, trying to test different resolutions, the chassis was even hissing a little. what should i check?

Bramlet · « **Reply #25 on:** February 11, 2012, 05:04:18 pm »

when i pulled the chassis i forgot to plug back in the degaussing coil, now it doesn't degauss on startup, what gives?

Bramlet · « **Reply #26 on:** February 11, 2012, 05:58:28 pm »

no more jitter or the color red

karnov64 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 11, 2012, 07:33:10 pm »

if u lost the colour red, run the monitor and while its working, look inside the glass at end of neck, where the little circuit board attaches right at the back of the monitor. there are 3 'guns' in there, so should be three orange little lights in there

if u only have 2 lights u will have to throw out the monitor

if u have 3 lights, then it points to either dry solder somewhere (start by checking the solder on the back of the little circuit board) or perhaps some bad wiring somewhere (eg. the wires going from the main circuit board to the little circuit board)

degauss coil: perhaps your degauss posistor has died. this mean u will need to replace it.
it is a component which looks like the posistor below and will be located somewhere on the main circuit board (power section i think)

Bramlet · « **Reply #28 on:** February 11, 2012, 08:48:24 pm »

kind of looks like 3 tiny lights and one bigger light, idk

karnov64 · « **Reply #29 on:** February 11, 2012, 11:20:26 pm »

Quote from: Bramlet on February 11, 2012, 08:48:24 pm

kind of looks like 3 tiny lights and one bigger light, idk

its probably dry solder or bad wiring somewhere then

and degauss circuit: u might know already, will only function when the monitor is cold so u could try turning off the monitor for an hour and then back on, to see if the monitor degausses again.. or consider adding a manual degauss pushbutton.. otherwise if still not working, replace the positor

hissing: either a capacitor hissing, so considering replacing it.. or the hissing may be coming from the suction cup on the back of the glass, which may mean it is dirty/leaky.. but for god sake be careful around that suction cup. if you put your fingers even slightly under it, the electricity may jump to your hand, and the voltages can kill (so u would really want to DISCHARGE the monitor SAFELY FIRST if you are going near that suction cup).. otherwise use eg. a long wooden spoon or something non-conductive. keep your hands away

Bramlet · « **Reply #30 on:** February 12, 2012, 08:37:46 am »

off all night and still no degaussing, for the electron gun lights, is it these 3 tiny lights all in a row like Orion's belt on the right side of the tube?

Bramlet · « **Reply #31 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:21:02 am »

i switched the red and green going into the monitor and the windows desktop grass was red. looks like theres nothing wrong with monitor

Bramlet · « **Reply #32 on:** February 12, 2012, 10:18:33 am »

I plugged in the VGA cable as an extension to my other computers VGA cable and it worked fine. I checked the continuity between the red wire going into the monitor and the red pin on the jpac edge connector and it was fine. Does this mean I have a bad Jpac?

Bramlet · « **Reply #33 on:** February 12, 2012, 10:46:43 am »

Hooked robocop back up and all the colors are there. I must have got a bad J-pac. I bought from arcadeemulators on ebay.

karnov64 · « **Reply #34 on:** February 12, 2012, 10:51:00 am »

yea, it sounds like your 3 electron guns are ok, u said u can see the 3 little lights and they are on so thats cool

maybe a dodgy jpac as u say

Bramlet · « **Reply #35 on:** February 12, 2012, 12:41:55 pm »

The Jpac works for my controls, how do I bypass it for the video? I have 3 colors and 2 other wires going into the monitor. My video card is 8500GT and I'm using soft15khz. Can I use a breakout cable or do I need an amplified video signal? Is there anyway to do this or should I just get another j-pac.

karnov64 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 12, 2012, 04:12:52 pm »

im not sure im afraid, i did own a jpac when they first came out many years ago but forgot about them now

hooking up the red wire direct from the vga source/cable to the monitor might be worth a try, to save buying another jpac

id say use jpac forum/boards to get help or otherwise just get another jpac

Bramlet · « **Reply #37 on:** February 12, 2012, 05:10:22 pm »

got all the colors going with a breakout cable

Bramlet · « **Reply #38 on:** February 28, 2012, 10:03:49 pm »

I have a replacement J-pac and everything is working. I think I need to make some further adjustments to get a better picture. I'm not really sure what I'm doing. Is there a guide to doing adjustments to right way? I've got a decent picture right now but I'd like to enlarge it a bit and maybe sharpen it up a little more as I was foolishly messing with the contrast when I had no v-sync due to a loose ps/2 connection to my j-pac.

So if I have this 19inch horizontal monitor what resolution should I use and then how do I make the image take up the whole screen. I have test grid. I can post pictures.

I guess what I'll do is run through the test grid screens on a youtube video and solicit advice in this thread.

Bramlet · « **Reply #39 on:** February 29, 2012, 06:47:00 pm »

Here is my testgrid video. Try to ignore the glare. How should I go about enlarging this image? Am I using a good resolution or should I try to dial in something else? My circles are not perfect on the top half of the screen is this a cap problem or something else?

Bramlet · « **Reply #40 on:** March 01, 2012, 11:04:11 pm »

ok looks like something went wrong with the video.


Main	Restorations	Software	Audio/Jukebox/MP3	Everything Else	Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements	Monitor/Video	GroovyMAME	Merit/JVL Touchscreen	Meet Up	Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing	Woodworking	Software Support Forums	Consoles	Project Arcade	Reviews
Automated Projects	Artwork	Frontend Support Forums	Pinball	Forum Discussion	Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board	controls.dat	Linux	Miscellaneous Arcade	Wiki Discussion	Old Archives
Lightguns	Arcade1Up	Try the site in https mode		Site News


Unread posts \| New Replies \| Recent posts \| Rules \| Chatroom \| Wiki \| File Repository \| RSS \| Submit news