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Author Topic: Re: MAME Abduction- Update - 99.999% Complete?  (Read 74403 times)

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #80 on: March 05, 2012, 11:44:35 pm »
Small update, with some goodies.

Ive been able to get a bit of work done over the past week.  I sanded down the angles in the back and front of the box to a more organic curve.  Then, took a flush trim bit to the second piece and made the clone.  That sure does work well.  The first time I cut sides, I did two pieces of mdf together at the same time. It was really really hard.  This time I followed the advice of the form and traced the first piece, then cut a little out from the trace, clamped the two together and ran a flush trim bit on it.  Wow, it worked like a charm and was fast.  I will say for anyone out there about to do this, the closer you cut with your jigsaw to the traced line, the easier the flush trim bit will be to work.



I copied my control panel that had the misplaced 7th button in it in the same manner.   Here's the completed product:



I found out that the router I was borrowing was stripped where it held the bit, so the bits would slip out some at times.  This is apparently what caused my initial problems when running the tmolding slots.  So, after narrowly escaping the same dreaded fate when cutting the circles out of the sides, I went ahead and bought a router to call my own.  Man, they sure are fun.

While working on all of that, my sticks from ParadiseArcadeShop.com came in.  The guy who does these is in Hawaii and sends come hawaiian candy with them.  The work is solid, I am not sold on the green though. 



And also the neon rings came in ... and it was discussed on this thread, but 14 inches is the right size to cut your hole if you are going this route.  It perfectly covers the ring and then just a litte, preventing direct light.  These are not in production any more, but are still available new on ebay.



Yesterday I started the base.  I must admit, it is probably a lot more sturdy than it needs to be, but hey, this thing is already going to be a hog, so whats a few more pounds for superior strength?  And hey, looky there, no more C clamps!  Im moving up! 



Lastly, I stumbled across a great set of casters today ... they match the theme perfectly.  coolcasters.com, they have all kinds of cool casters, pretty much as the name implies.  The only question I have is, they are rated at 110lbs a piece, will this cab weigh more than that?  Surely not.


TheShaner

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I also forgot to mention that I have almost finished redoing the artwork for the control panel.  I havent quite figured out the right way to wrap the odd shaped button set, but it is getting close.

Of course it looks a lot better in full rez.

« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 09:34:43 am by TheShaner »

TheShaner

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With the design directly above, I am going for an Alien control panel of sorts obviously. I envision it being something like a screen with tons of info and a display showing the action going on outside the ship.  Im working on a few more whiz bangs and might get rid of a few of the call outs.

The other option I am working with is going more abstract.  Sometimes simplicity is the key. So I am working two at the same time and will see which one sticks in the end.



Any opinions between the two?
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 09:36:01 am by TheShaner »

Green Giant

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I think I like the first one the most, but I don't like the text on the right side that I assume looks like it comes out of a computer.  The small blip of text on the left side looks much better.  The only other suggestion I have would be to darken the edges of the first one.  I like how the most abstract picture seems to fade to black at the border.

Are your buttons going to be lit?  I can't remember but I would assume they are.  If so I don't think you need to wrap the buttons.  I would suggest simply adding some green directional arrows around the joysticks.  Keep the button wrapping for the other stuff though.  Just not the 7 button layouts.

Otherwise your progress looks great.  Love the shape of the cab.  Wish I had gone abstract like that when I did my build, but I was a real noob with all of this stuff including wood work at the time.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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The more I stared at it, the more the second one started to stick out and I started seeing things in it... ribs and such, but I never liked half of this picture.  So, I duplicated it, flipped it, and whalah!!  This really looks alien now ... still debating ...



« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 06:14:03 pm by TheShaner »

Le Chuck

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Infinitely cooler.  I like that mirrored design. 

jmike

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+1 on the artwork.   

   Looks good. Kind of remind me of the alien from Independence Day or better yet the one from the original Contra. 




 :cheers:

TheShaner

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Thanks, I think so too. The more I look at it the more I am seeing an insect-like face in the middle and Kewl slimy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- everywhere. I'm gonna keep on tweaking. I'm pretty sure this one will be the one I go with. it's making me question the marquee now though damnit!

Green Giant

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Thanks, I think so too. The more I look at it the more I am seeing an insect-like face in the middle and Kewl slimy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- everywhere. I'm gonna keep on tweaking. I'm pretty sure this one will be the one I go with. it's making me question the marquee now though damnit!
That new one looks great.

I like the free floating buttons on the left player.  Making them symmetrical really boosted it up.


Post a picture of the marquee and the new control panel design on top of each other.  They may still work just fine.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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Post a picture of the marquee and the new control panel design on top of each other.  They may still work just fine.





I think Im good.  I might tweak a tad ... but all in all I think they still relate enough
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 07:08:07 pm by TheShaner »

Green Giant

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Those look great together.  No reason to worry about continuity.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Le Chuck

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Right above the trackball it kinda looks like a wee alien head.  You should tweak that area just enough to where it's unmistakable.  That would cinch it.  I like the shading on the current joy overlays but I like the shape on the one that is from earlier today.  I also liked the button halo of the earlier one also.   

TheShaner

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I agree, I was planning on bringing the head out a little more. The joysticks from earlier seem a little weak, but I am still working on those. What halo are you talking about?

Le Chuck

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I agree, I was planning on bringing the head out a little more. The joysticks from earlier seem a little weak, but I am still working on those. What halo are you talking about?

CP in reply #84.  Ring around the right set of 7 player buttons.  Commonly refered to as a halo, that ring thing, doo-dad, whatzit, and Ringo.   

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I ended up with modded Sanwa JLW-TM-8 Joysticks that have a similar green and like the way they look unlit but they are definitely lighter like yours look in the picture...for me it matched the T-Molding nicely...what T molding are you using?
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TheShaner

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Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?

Green Giant

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Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?
Pretty sure that is the only one that will work.  Don't worry though, with the shade of green in your CP, it will look just fine.  My CP has similar shades of green in it to yours.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Epyx

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Quote
Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?

Ya there are but this is the nicest  :cheers:

And agreed it will all match and look fantastic!
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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated Mar 17 ***
« Reply #98 on: March 17, 2012, 01:06:00 pm »
Managed to get some time in over the past couple of days...

I had a friend that said he had the perfect casters for me.  When I got a hold of them, I realized they were just slightly too big, so I ordered the casters off of coolcasters.com I found previously.  I got those in the mail the other day, and wow, they really are cool.  If they hold up, I highly recommend them.  They are plastic in the middle, which concerns me, but they are supposed to be rated at 110 lbs each, which should suffice, so I hope they can stand the weight.  I'll find out for sure I suppose when I get a big ass CRT in it.



So with the casters in, I was able to get the base finished.  This thing is built better than my house.  Probably as heavy too.



And with the base finished, I could finally start putting things together.  



It was a bit tricky attaching things to the base by myself.  I ended up setting a building stud underneath each of the sides then using bar clamps to hold them in place until I could drop some screws.  I got lucky in that the studs thickness really gave me the perfect height off the ground.  Having the sides on it after all of this time really has me stoked.  The shape looks even cooler now that it is upright and attached.  

I probably should have routed the slots for the T-Molding before putting things together, but meh, I dont mind laying it on it's side once I get another support or two in place.  I have some routing I need to do on the sides here soon anyway.  I will explain that in a few days once I get to it, but it is a super cool idea.

Still debating paint vs laminate deal.  I would really like to do a black base, then paint a gradient from green to black, but I am not sure how tough that is going to be.  I need to research the technique and the tools involved.  I dont have a compressor or a spray gun, so I know that will be a bit of an expense and I doubt I can get away with spraypaint cans.  

On the door and the hinges involved ... I want my door to be as flush as possible in the back.  I have seen some cabinet hinges that I think will fit the bill.  Any suggestions in this area are welcome.

I should be trying my hand at some kerfing this week.  Stay tuned!
« Last Edit: March 17, 2012, 01:17:04 pm by TheShaner »

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #99 on: April 03, 2012, 12:42:20 am »
Ive made a little progress and figured it would be a good time for an update.  I've also had a lot of cool goodies come in the mail!

First off, I have tried kerfing several times and just simply did not like the results I was getting.  I think the at problem is that I do not have a lot of room to work with.  The coin door needs a good amount of space and at least 12 inches of height, which is hard to spare down there.  So, I have decided to go more of a low tech straight ahead approach.  This started with the right sized flat area for the coin door, then worked a few angled pieced in from there.  The plan was to get those in place, for the most part, then fill some of the area with wood putty and sand in some of the transitions between the pieces to give them more of a curve.  I didnt want to do this just yet though as I still need to place this guy on it's side to route the t-molding slots into the sides just incase the stress of being put on its side might goof with the putty.  So here is what I am talking about...



I do realize that the last piece before the kickplate appears to have a little gap on one side, but I am going to fill that up and sand a nice curve into it.  There is already a nice curve to it, but the pic doesn't do it justice.   At the same time, I got some pac cards in ...



iPAC4, OptiPAC and a PACLED64.  The iPAC4 is probably a bit of overkill, but I would rather have too many than not enough.

With this goodness in, I started working on the box for the control panel...



Don't ask me why there was a mallet there, I have no idea.  Here is an idea of what the machine is starting to look like with the pieces coming together...



I had some question on the color of the TMolding I was going to use.  I was not sure about getting green buttons from Happ and trying to match them with the other green molding, so i ordered a couple of samples from TMolding.com.  If anyone wasnt aware, you can order samples from them for free.  I ordered 2 of each green and got 2 6" samples in astonishingly quick.  Now I am 100% sure on the Galaxian green.  It looks way cooler, and I will just go with black buttons now.  having these samples also gave me the last piece I needed to go ahead and get the slots cut.  If you guys remember, this is where my project went south a couple of months ago because of a faulty router and a slipping bit.  I have since picked up a cheap Ryobi and despite the low price tag, it kicks butt. If you are a casual Router user, it works just fine and absolutely has enough power.  No need to go spend a ton of money on something crazy.  It cut through my MDF like butter...



I was totally stressed about doing this part, but it came out absolutely perfect.  

And yet another toy came in the mail today ...



Im looking forward to getting the rest of the panels in place so I can get to painting and ultimately to the electronics.

On another note, I just finished restoring my Cyclone pinball machine, which is ridiculously fun and will make a great partner for my MAME machine.


« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 12:44:00 pm by TheShaner »

Seith

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #100 on: April 03, 2012, 10:16:32 am »
 :applaud:

Absolutely fantastic looking so far!  Keep it up!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #101 on: April 04, 2012, 03:17:44 pm »
Questions...

What thickness of mdf did you cut your CP out of?  3/4" ?

Did you plan on putting plexi on your artwork?

Did you plan on outling the CP with T-molding?

It's been awhile since I've done mine but I could of sworn I used a thinner piece of MDF (maybe 5/8", i suck at fractions and measurements) so the T-molding, mdf, and plexi all lined up....

So after looking at your CP I'm hoping you didnt cut it out of the same MDF you cut your sides out of. If not no worries....

Looking good though.......... :applaud:
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #102 on: April 04, 2012, 04:12:24 pm »
Questions...

What thickness of mdf did you cut your CP out of?  3/4" ?

Did you plan on putting plexi on your artwork?

Did you plan on outling the CP with T-molding?

It's been awhile since I've done mine but I could of sworn I used a thinner piece of MDF (maybe 5/8", i suck at fractions and measurements) so the T-molding, mdf, and plexi all lined up....

So after looking at your CP I'm hoping you didnt cut it out of the same MDF you cut your sides out of. If not no worries....

Looking good though.......... :applaud:

rablack,

Yes, I am cutting it out of 3/4th and am about 90% sure I am going to overlay it with 1/8" plexi or lexan and am definitely going to have tmolding on it.  The control panel I have that is going to be used (probably) is the 4th one I have cut, for one reason or another, and they have varied in thicknesses.  I am actually going to take Knievel's advice on this one and go for the thicker wood (as opposed to 5/8" thick) since I am going to be top mounting the joysticks and trackball.  This will give some added thickness and support.  I will adjust my slot cutting bit so that the tmolding will cover the plexiglass too and sand an 1/8" bevel into the bottom portion of the control panel so that everything lines up well.  Make sense?


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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #103 on: April 04, 2012, 04:32:42 pm »
Also, I cut the hole in the front for the coin door last night.  I ended up picking up a new Multiplayer door from Happ.  The 40-0008 in particular.  



I chose this one because I was limited on space and could not do an over under.  I will end up getting a coin box that hangs from the inside of it.  And of course I ordered green coin slots for it!

Despite the fact that there are some dimensions for it, I could not find a template to print for a guide.  I suck at measuring anything out except on a computer, so I made a template for it.  If anyone else needs it, I have uploaded it to this post.  It makes life easier.

« Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 04:38:36 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #104 on: April 06, 2012, 12:39:54 am »
I gotcha, although, I did the same layout that you are doing, minus the buttons on each side of trackball.

I top mounted the j-stiks and the trackball as well, and my CP is sturdy as an ox.

I guess it's all in preference, just seems like more work to get it flush, especially since you will have to toy around with that bevel to get it just right.

Looking forward to seeing your progress on the CP....
   

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #105 on: April 06, 2012, 10:27:18 am »

[/quote]

rablack,

Yes, I am cutting it out of 3/4th and am about 90% sure I am going to overlay it with 1/8" plexi or lexan and am definitely going to have tmolding on it.  The control panel I have that is going to be used (probably) is the 4th one I have cut, for one reason or another, and they have varied in thicknesses.  I am actually going to take Knievel's advice on this one and go for the thicker wood (as opposed to 5/8" thick) since I am going to be top mounting the joysticks and trackball.  This will give some added thickness and support.  I will adjust my slot cutting bit so that the tmolding will cover the plexiglass too and sand an 1/8" bevel into the bottom portion of the control panel so that everything lines up well.  Make sense?


[/quote]

Just wondering when Knievil gave this advice as it was my understanding that he used 1/2" MDF with the joys top mounted into that.  Then a 1/8" board to cover that.  And then the 1/8" plexi. 

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #106 on: April 06, 2012, 03:33:15 pm »
That's an interesting approach with the 2 pieces of wood then the plexi. I talked to him a few days ago about this, so it might be the approach he is taking now, or I misunderstood him. Regardless, I think it will work out ok.

I have spent the past couple of days putting on wood filler, and sanding it away trying to get some nice smooth transitions in the curve on the base. It's a b-itch, my fingers are raw and I'm only about halfway done. It is a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. Boo hoo, poor me. Wah wah. I'll stop crying now. Blood sweat and tears!  It wouldn't be a worthwhile project if it didn't have all three.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #107 on: April 26, 2012, 12:29:05 pm »
I have spent the past couple of days putting on wood filler, and sanding it away trying to get some nice smooth transitions in the curve on the base. It's a b-itch, my fingers are raw and I'm only about halfway done. It is a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. Boo hoo, poor me. Wah wah. I'll stop crying now. Blood sweat and tears!  It wouldn't be a worthwhile project if it didn't have all three.

Agreed.  Any progress on this part of the project?

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #108 on: April 26, 2012, 01:47:54 pm »
Love this design and artwork... it's gonna look great when complete.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #109 on: April 26, 2012, 03:42:22 pm »
Man, it's funny you ask ...

Ive been sanding, and filling ---my bottom--- off for the past 3 weeks or so.  Wood filler is a bunch of crap.  I started off with the Elmer's.  It seemed great at first, but just cracked a lot and was overall too soft for my comfort.  I was afraid of denting and what not.  So I moved to Minwax filler.  Which was indeed a lot harder, and a much better product.  I recommend it for small items.  But in my case, I am trying to reshape curves, so I am putting a bunch down and trying to sand it into the shape I need.  You talk about raw fingers and dusty garages.  I got it to the point to where I thought it looked pretty good ...





Then I went ahead and primered it.



It looked pretty neat, but put under the light of the garage at night, I could really see some inconsistencies.  A few lumps here, a little unevenness there.  I have plans to have a cathode under the control panel, and know it will end up throwing all kinds of shadows and those bumps will stand out.  Cant have that!!

So I toiled over it for another week or so, building up filler, sanding down problems ... rinse and repeat.  Have I mentioned yet how much I hate filler?  I guess I should have given kerfing a bit more of a chance.  Anyway, I did this until last night, I was working one of the troubled spots for the 100th time, it was somehow separating from the wood underneath it, and enough was enough.  I did some research on bondo, thinking that was where I was headed.  And while it seems like it would work, it is a little crude and hard to work with.  As I dug deeper though, I stumbled into the Epoxy options.  Namely WoodEpox and Sculpwood.  Expensive yes, but can you put a price on sanity? 

This morning I stripped the damned filler off of the machine with some hardcore grit ...



Then ran off to the one place in town that carries this stuff and bought it.



From everything I have read, this stuff is playdoe that turns into wood.  It can easily be sanded, drilled, screwed into and routed.  I have played with a little bit of it and wow.  It really is awesome.

So now that I have what I need, I am going to stock up on beer, get some chicken for the grill, and spend tomorrow night sculpting my curve.  I am stoked and think it will turn out kick ass.  My hope is to have it back on it's rollers by Sunday so I can get the back and top on it.  I need to hurry up and get things ready as I have a Makvision 29" CRT in transit as we speak!

Pass or fail, Ill post some pics on Saturday of tomorrow nights progress.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #110 on: April 27, 2012, 04:09:24 pm »
So now that I have what I need, I am going to stock up on beer, get some chicken for the grill, and spend tomorrow night sculpting my curve.  I am stoked and think it will turn out kick ass.  My hope is to have it back on it's rollers by Sunday so I can get the back and top on it.  I need to hurry up and get things ready as I have a Makvision 29" CRT in transit as we speak!

Pass or fail, Ill post some pics on Saturday of tomorrow nights progress.

 :cheers: Good luck!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 26th ... somewhat ***
« Reply #111 on: April 27, 2012, 05:15:03 pm »
Interested in how that stuff works out.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 26th ... somewhat ***
« Reply #112 on: April 29, 2012, 01:11:45 pm »
Alright, I was able to do a good test of the WoodEpox.  I must say, it is some really awesome stuff.  In one night, I was able to accomplish more, with better results than over 3 weeks of work with wood filler.  Here are some pics:

Standard epoxy setup


The stuff isnt very tacky, so I put a little wood glue down first, and it stuck.  Here is the gap roughly filled.


Rolled out:


Sanded:


I really cant say anything negative about this stuff.  If I had to, It would be that it is a little crumbly at first, but that quickly goes away after the chemical reaction happens.  I checked on it this morning and it is freaking hard, sands like wood and feels like wood.  I am going to finesse the curve a little more, but it is very close after one application.  With enough time and care, you really could make anything out of this stuff and it would be hard as a rock.  I'll never use filler again, not even for screwholes.  It is expensive, but hell, I am working on a money pit anyway, so whats another few bucks?

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** My monitor has been cancelled, need some help ***
« Reply #113 on: April 30, 2012, 05:03:02 pm »
Ok, so I got a call from the dude over at x-gaming.com a bit ago, and he told me that they are no longer shipping through UPS or anyone else.  If I wanted to still buy this monitor, I will need to pay another $100 bucks on top of the $60 I am already paying to get it to me on a palette.  To that I say suck it.  I wanted to be a purist on this machine, but Im not going to let them cram one up the ol stinkhole and find my happy place while they do it.

So the way I see it, I have 2 options.

1.  Find a TV that fits the bill.  From what I have read, Sony Trinitrons seem to fit the bill nicely.  I have found one locally for around $50 bucks (27").  How difficult are TV's to configure?  Is it worth it?
2.  LCD's.  What are my options for a large LCD?  I really want to fill up my 26.5 inches wide inside the cabinet as much as I can, but really don't see any 4:3 LCD's of that size.  Can anyone point me in the right direction, or let me know what others are doing?

Thanks!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Monitor has been cancelled, need some help ***
« Reply #114 on: April 30, 2012, 05:14:17 pm »
That should just fit a 27 or 28" widescreen LCD.  I am a fan of the real estate on the widescreen.  Many of the horizontal games that played in 4:3 and actually go a little bit wider and fill more of the screen.  You will also get any PC games that play in full widescreen.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #115 on: May 07, 2012, 11:45:21 pm »
Decent update today ...

So here is where things were...  I had finished construction of the control panel base and had a few of the panels on the back top area ...





Little WoodEpox, Little sanding ...


Control Panel base primed and painted



I started painting the sides for the heck of it.  I had some 1/16" formica coming in soon, but I couldnt help it, I wanted to see what it looked like.  It looked really slick, but I had already roughed up the sides in prep for the laminate, so you could see the scratches.  I must say, paint does look pretty good though once it is on.

But then the laminate came in.  I did not have the luxury of laminating the sides before assembly because I was undecided on the paint vs laminate option until about a week ago. So I referred to EPYX's laminating tutorial, and modified it a little to work with the sides on the bottom and the laminate up top.

I clamped the full sheet down on to the top of the cab laid on its side. Took a marker and traced an outline of the cab about 2 inches out. Then did a really rough cut with some industrial scissors.  Cleaned all surfaces and started in with the contact cement.





let the glue drie then laid down the rods



Pulled the rods and set in with the router



And the final result.  Hot damn that looks good!



The only issue with the night was side two.  There was a big storm rolling in and I was rushing.  I got the laminate in place and started trying to route, but had a slip up and damaged the laminate.  I pulled a lot of it, but damn that cement is tough, and the laminate is brittle.  I got a lot of it up, but I have a lot of work to do tomorrow to get the rest off and remove the glue.  Good thing I bought 5 sheets of laminate, so I have a few sheets to spare.



One word of advice, work with contact cement in a well ventilated area.  I didnt tonight, and now my beer tastes like glue.  Im still drinking it, but it tastest like crap.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #116 on: May 08, 2012, 07:37:17 am »
Looks good, by far I love working with laminate over paint.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #117 on: May 08, 2012, 11:38:26 am »
Yeah wood filler is no good.  Bondo is your best friend in these cases.  It's like your epoxy only even better.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #118 on: May 08, 2012, 03:16:57 pm »
Yeah wood filler is no good.  Bondo is your best friend in these cases.  It's like your epoxy only even better.

Ive played with bondo before, and while it is good stuff, it is a little hard to work with.  This Epoxy is like play-do that turns into wood when it dries.  It is super light and you can route/drill/sand it exactly like wood.  It is the shiz.

Got a lot of things coming in the mail the next few days...

1.  Lots of green convex LED buttons from paradise arcades ... I was going to go a different approach, but this project is taking a really long time and I need some Galaga action.
2.  Artwork - Gameongraphix.com - Here are the finals:

(I left this one linked to Flickr so you could see it a little bigger.  The size shown here on the boards does not have enough detail to see cool details like the scanlines behind the player controls etc.  I will post pics once they come in.)


This has been trimmed down to a height of 7.5 inches.  Quite a bit shorter than I had originally anticipated, but the cabinet design changed mid stream.
3.  Makvision 29" SVGA Monitor - This should be the last big expense.  Thank the maker!  I am running out of kids to sell.
4.  Seagate Baracuda 1TB drive - This is a starting point.  I am not sure how complete I am going to want my ROM collections.
5.  Plenty of Green Cathode tubes

After that I will just need to figure out the sound and power.  I wanted to get a Logitech z-2300 sound system, but ouch!  Those are freaking pricy.  Any recommendations out there?

On the PC I picked up a 2.8 Dual Core Intel board with 2g of memory.  I would think that should suffice for what I want to do with this cab.  I am going to put a beefier one in the next cab, which will be an LCD based system meant for playing more modern console and PC games.

« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 01:12:37 am by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #119 on: May 08, 2012, 04:59:41 pm »
......this project is taking a really long time...


 8)  no it isn't, looking good though and very much worth the effort you've put in so far.

  
 

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