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Author Topic: Re: MAME Abduction- Update - 99.999% Complete?  (Read 77322 times)

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - 99.999% Complete?
« on: January 30, 2012, 04:35:20 pm »
Stick a fork in her ...





 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Updates  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

***  March 6 - Control Panel Templates Updated ***
As stated lower in this post, when I started this project, I reached out to Knievel and asked him for his control panel work files.  After some digging, he was able to find them.  I had them posted originally with a 7th button mod, but those were in the wrong place and I pulled them.  I have gone ahead and done a little work on his file.  I removed the button with the issue, and consolidated his two files (staggered buttons and straight buttons) into one file.  Also, I went ahead and added the enclosing rounded rectangles that enclose all of the buttons.  They are ready now to just drop artwork into.

During the course of my project, I have redone this with a new shape and in both illustrator and photoshop.  Illustrator for the shape and button positions, then photoshop to actually do the artwork.  The illustrator file is great because it can be sent off to a company to get the plexi cut.  The photoshop file is nice for printing and doing your woodwork.  You can print it at 100% then use it to cut the shape and I have pinpoints in the centers of each button to help with initial drill placement.  I am posting the illustrator file as it is nice and small.  The photoshop file has some meat to it though and is too big to put into this form.  If anyone will host it, I will make it available.  These are of my new shape, but I will probably recreate knievels shape in this same manner as well as I know this is a highly sought after shape/template. 

Enjoy!

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Original Post - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Background

Well I've had this project rolling around in my head for about 5 years now.  2 years ago I started it, pretty much totally inspired by Knievals NEON MAME: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,30538.msg257557.html#msg257557, but black and green with an Alien twist (Not the movie.)  So I Bought the MDF, cut the cabinet sides, then other things happened and the project went stagnate. 

Two weeks ago the sides were staring at me, just laughing at my inability to finish, or even make any real progress on this project ... this got to me, so I started back into research mode, and what did I find?  A totally killer Alien cab built by Epyx (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=96465.0).  Wow!  I must say, this is one of the most amazing cabinets that I have ever seen, and almost totally on spot with what I wanted to do; green and black, well lit up, neon ring, you name it, this cab has it all.  It even went a step further with the awesome cab shape.  And it was totally in line with what I had wanted to do a while back.  That was all of the convincing and inspiration I needed ... It was back on.

I reached out to both of the ArcadeControls Rockstars, Knievel and Epyx.  Both are totally nice dudes and willing to offer their advice and in some cases some of their work.  I will share what they have shared with me as I go through this process to save others time.

The Plan

The plan is pretty simple, and has not veered from what it was 2 years ago.  NEON Mame with an Alien twist.  Now it just has Epyx awesome work to make it better.  Namely that lamination job and a few other tweaks.  I also have a couple of pretty cool ideas of my own, more on the technical side, as I am a tech/designer, not a wood crafter, but I will get to those.

I really like the curved cab design Epyx did, but in the interest of keeping me motivated and moving on this, I am just going to stick with my original sides, which were loosely based on these plans:

These were taken from Jeff's Ultimate Arcade Cabinate plans v1 here:  http://mame.velociworks.com/

Where I'm At

Like I said, the sides are cut ...


And since then I have gone ahead and worked on the graphics some: 

Marquee: 
I really like the way Aliens vs. Predator did the letters in their logo, so I sought to incorporate that in mine. It was surprisingly hard to find an AvP font that works on Mac OSX Lion, so I just created the MAME letters from scratch, styled them like AVP, and found a cool Alien Ware head someone did.


Side Art:  Just a rehash of the Marquee, intended to get dropped behind a cutout circle on the side, and accented with a neon green speaker ring of course.



Control Panel:  I reached out to Kneivel, and after some digging he found the Photoshop file he had used for this.  I modified his 6 button set to add a 7th thumb button, expanded the rounded boxes around them to accommodate the space.  I have looked and looked to try and find an image as cool as the one Kneivel used, but I just can't seem to top it, so for now the cosmic frostbite image is there.  I will say though, anyone looking for really cool images to work with, http://www.deviantart.com/ is the place to go.  This is where he originally found his I believe.  He said it was cool to share the artwork he gave to me, so it is attached.  I will upload all 3 versions I have.  The two he gave me with the 6 button sets and no backdrop, and the modified one that I have worked up that includes the extra thumb button.



What's Next

This weekend I am going to go ahead and get the wood for the front and back pieces, as well as the bottom.  I will get those cut and ready, then start thinking about the routing and lamination.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2013, 09:43:59 pm by TheShaner »

Le Chuck

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2012, 05:02:14 pm »
Welcome, looking great man!   :applaud:  Can't wait to see it come together!

Green Giant

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #2 on: January 30, 2012, 05:23:08 pm »
I love me some green cabinets.

Keep up the good work.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

mgb

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #3 on: January 30, 2012, 06:03:09 pm »
Welcome to the forums,
Looking good so far.
Good luck

drventure

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #4 on: January 30, 2012, 06:17:58 pm »
Love the theme. Nice artwork so far!

DaveMMR

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #5 on: January 30, 2012, 06:48:27 pm »
Wow, if the rest of the cabinet is half as good as that artwork, we're going to have another good looking cab.  You thinking about going with black or green (or better, green lighted) buttons with that artwork?

mgb

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #6 on: January 30, 2012, 07:02:53 pm »
It would look cool with Black buttons with green lit rings

SammyWI

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #7 on: January 30, 2012, 08:02:59 pm »
Looking good.  Love the artwork and theme.  Keep us updated.

Louis Tully

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2012, 08:53:13 pm »
.
« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 05:20:16 am by Louis Tully »

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2012, 09:30:07 am »
Wow, if the rest of the cabinet is half as good as that artwork, we're going to have another good looking cab.  You thinking about going with black or green (or better, green lighted) buttons with that artwork?

Im probably going to go full on lit buttons like Epyx did on his.  Do you know of a project where I can see what you are talking about?  I am definitely open to suggestions.

You guys got any input on what I should use as a monitor?  With the WG out of production, that is really just leaving the the Makvision for a similar alternative, or at least that is all Ive seen ...

Ond

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2012, 03:48:42 pm »
Im probably going to go full on lit buttons like Epyx did on his.  Do you know of a project where I can see what you are talking about?  I am definitely open to suggestions.


Maybe like this? (Page 4 of my project)  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.120  or check out Franco B's versions of these which are better.



« Last Edit: January 31, 2012, 03:59:59 pm by Ond »

spkywlnt73

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #11 on: January 31, 2012, 04:39:56 pm »
Man, I can't wait to see this project progress! Love the art work btw! :applaud:

Green Giant

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #12 on: January 31, 2012, 05:40:49 pm »
It's funny how so few people use green, and yet everyone loves the green themes.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #13 on: February 03, 2012, 11:44:23 am »
Ok, so I bought most of the rest of the wood needed a couple of days ago and am going to do some work this weekend.  I already have the rest of the MDF cut to the width of the cab and ready to be trimmed down to the height needed to do the back and front pieces.  I probably wont do anything with that yet as I plan on routing the wood first (still looking for the right bit) and building the base first.

On the base, this is going to be a freaking heavy cab, so I am going to get some gnarly casters. If anyone has any recommendations on cheap ones that are strong let me know.  If not, I will be doing something rated between 150-200lbs a caster.  I think that should work.

The wood work I am going to do this weekend will be getting the base and control panel started.  The base is going to be built individually with MDF and Pine for strength, then teh cab will be built upwards from there.  The control panel is where I am a bit sketchy on how I am going to get the shape right.  The artwork I have done has a very distinct trim line in it.  The idea is to get the shape of the wood to match that trim line exactly.  I talked to Knieval and he said that he had actually created the wood template first then created the artwork.  Well, I dont have that nicety, so here is my plan:  I am going to take a black and white version of my template and have it printed someplace that does large prints.  Not sure if Kinkos will can handle prints this big, but I know the local grocery store can do it on photopaper, but that is a little pricy.



So, printed on normal paper, I can tape this to a piece of mdf, then cut along the black trim.  This black trim is about an inch of separation from the green line to the edge of the CP.  If cut well, it should give me a perfect shape, I hope.

So that's the plan.  Im open to suggestions if anyone has been through this before.  If not, I will let you see out it turns out on Sunday.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2012, 12:17:07 pm by TheShaner »

Le Chuck

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2012, 02:05:12 pm »
Kinkos near me has two plotters.  B&W full size CP print was like 79cents or something.  Not bad for a template.  Hope you find a deal that good. 

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2012, 02:30:45 pm »
Well, it wasn't 79 cents, but it was only 2 bucks, so not too bad. I'm cutting tonight, I'll post some pics later

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #16 on: February 04, 2012, 04:36:27 pm »
Ok, well I had a pretty successful night last night.  I was able to get the template printed, and cut.  Overall things went well. 

The template and my awesome high tech work environment:


The shape cut:  If I was going to do this again, I would trim all of the white from around the paper template.  It got in the way and made it hard to see where the jig was at.


And the end result minus the trackball hole.  Im not 100% sure which one I am getting, so I am going to hold off on that hole for now.  There were a couple of hickups, but overall I think it came out good. 


Now it's on to the base of the cab.  I have an idea how I'm going to approach this, but I think I will scour the forums some and see if I can find someone who has done it "right".  If you know of any, drop a link.

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #17 on: February 04, 2012, 06:25:30 pm »
As far as your buttons you might try this option.  Middle of this page http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=96162.80.

It's not as hi-tech as Ond and Franco B's, but it worked out well for me.

One thing about full lighting buttons is the led tends to shine directly in our eyes at some angles and it throws a ton of light to the ceiling.

I took translucent and black buttons popped out the black plunger and stuck it in the translucent case.  Give your buttons a nice look i think.

 
   

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #18 on: February 04, 2012, 07:08:51 pm »
+1 on the solid/translucent button combos. If you go with those (or any buttons with translucent bodies, and only have active buttons lit for that matter), there is a chance you will have some light bleeding into unlit buttons from lit neighboring buttons (and color mixing if you go with multiple colors or RGB LEDs). The bleeding was horrible on my panels, but I have much thinner metal control panels. Might not even be an issue with 3/4" wood panels. I took care of it with some heat shrink tubing, but there is a laundry list of things you can do to remedy it.

Light bleeding while lit for MK3.


Heat shrink fix.


No light bleeding after fix.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2012, 07:12:59 pm by Nephasth »

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #19 on: February 04, 2012, 10:52:52 pm »
One more note IL stopped making the clear translucent pushbuttons.  So if you plan on going this route, you might want to snag some up fairly quickly.  You might look at lizardlick.com, they still have these buttons posted to their site.

   

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Epyx

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #20 on: February 05, 2012, 02:10:18 am »
Thanks for the link Shaner, nice to see your project up on this website.  I gotta say I LOVE the artwork you have planned.  Looks terrific!  

Also, I would highly recommend the buttons Ond shows above for the exact reason Rablack97 mentioned...although my full on lit buttons look great at a distance they are distracting while you are looming overtop of them.  I almost never have them fully lit...only at the start of the game to indicate buttons used for games and then they are turned off during gameplay. If I were to build this cab again I would do them Ond/FrancoB style.

Man this project and Ond's updates are giving me the itch again as well...lol.  Was it Ozzy who said of alcohol exactly which we could say of building cabs "Although that one's too much, you know tens not enough!" so true...once you build one you want to build more! lol

Ill be checking in frequently here to see your progress. Any questions as mentioned just ask!

Cheers!
« Last Edit: February 05, 2012, 02:16:43 am by Epyx »
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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #21 on: February 05, 2012, 05:57:58 pm »
On the base, this is going to be a freaking heavy cab, so I am going to get some gnarly casters. If anyone has any recommendations on cheap ones that are strong let me know.  If not, I will be doing something rated between 150-200lbs a caster.  I think that should work.
When choosing your casters I wouldn't worry about the weight.

Focus on the diameter of the wheels.  If you aren't 100% positive this will only be on wood floors and concrete, a larger radius wheel will allow it to roll over carpet without warping the carpet.  I put some big 3" casters on my cab rated for some really really big weights.  Pushing it around on carpet is really easy.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #22 on: February 06, 2012, 11:59:15 am »
Ok, I'm sold.  I am going to take the OND approach for the buttons.  Crazy creative by the way OND.  The question on these is going to be, do I go green or black.  I am leaning towards green, the only problem with this is the green buttons that are sold don't go that well with the Galaxian green T-Molding.  Decisions decisions... Im going to order these this week and go ahead and get started on them.  They seem like a good "In between major updates" kind of job.

Thanks Giant on the caster advice.

Ordered my 1/16" router bit off of tmolding.com today ... hopefully will get it before the weekend and I can start routing.

Ahh and also rolling around the idea of cutting into the cab a little to make the shape a little cooler.  Not much, just a tweak here and there ... :-). We will see what a little time and a few beers leads to.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #23 on: February 06, 2012, 12:03:27 pm »
The question on these is going to be, do I go green or black.  I am leaning towards green, the only problem with this is the green buttons that are sold don't go that well with the Galaxian green T-Molding.  Decisions decisions...

I think black buttons with a green lighting effect would look really good with your art, and you won't have to worry about green buttons matching Galaxian green t-molding...

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2012, 12:31:48 pm »
Ok, just ordered some buttons and am going to get to cutting them up as soon as I get them. 

A question for you EPYX, or anyone with experience here,  you said the LED lit buttons were a distraction, what about the joysticks?  Were they ok lit up? 

madmatt

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #25 on: February 07, 2012, 08:03:59 pm »
Killer marquee  :applaud:

Can't wait to see more.

MM

out
 :afro:

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #26 on: February 07, 2012, 08:37:22 pm »
Can someone post a link to Franco B's button job?  I have been looking forever now and cannot seem to find it.

Thanks!

Le Chuck

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #27 on: February 07, 2012, 08:52:22 pm »
Ninjasquirrel's is here.  Another take on Ond's.  Just a minute while I find my Franco bookmark... it can be found here. Page 3 of his Naomi build.  Check out page one for a ---smurfing--- sweet clock.    

Here are a few of the pertinent pics






« Last Edit: February 07, 2012, 09:07:18 pm by Le Chuck »

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #28 on: February 08, 2012, 08:40:27 am »
Wow, Ninjasquirrel's buttons are the $h1t.  They look like they would light up the control panel a little better than some of other versions I have seen.  I am definitely going this route.  Thanks for the link Le Chuck!

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #29 on: February 08, 2012, 09:50:13 pm »
Quote
A question for you EPYX, or anyone with experience here,  you said the LED lit buttons were a distraction, what about the joysticks?  Were they ok lit up?

Sorry for the late response...I found the lighting to be more of a distraction than it was worth for me personally but don't get me wrong I still turn it on from time to time...ie when I have a buddy over for some two player but even then after a while I usually end up turning it off.

You may not find that however, it was a personal thing. I still love the lighting for the whole package but functionality wise I use it off more than on :)
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Le Chuck

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #30 on: February 08, 2012, 09:55:16 pm »
Quote
A question for you EPYX, or anyone with experience here,  you said the LED lit buttons were a distraction, what about the joysticks?  Were they ok lit up?

Sorry for the late response...I found the lighting to be more of a distraction than it was worth for me personally but don't get me wrong I still turn it on from time to time...ie when I have a buddy over for some two player but even then after a while I usually end up turning it off.

You may not find that however, it was a personal thing. I still love the lighting for the whole package but functionality wise I use it off more than on :)

Would you recommend then just setting it up for an attract mode and then to flash the game buttons at the begining of a game and go off?

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #31 on: February 10, 2012, 09:09:28 pm »
I have the same sticks as Epyx, I've never considered lit ball tops as a distraction when playing.

You have to consider a couple of factors.

1.  There is a smaller led in the sticks I think 3mm and plus the light gets diffused as it travels through the bubble top.
2.  5mm leds are used for the buttons and firing throught the clear plunger of the button which is magnifying the light.  So it would get annoying to the eye to have 6 or 7 magnified leds shining right into the lower site of vision.

Also, if you wanted you can use led blinky and set the level of brightness on all your leds.  Although if you want to go through the trouble of creating Ninja squirrels buttons then you wont have this issue.

I keep my sticks and buttons lit up at all times, with a nice size display you won't even notice the buttons as the light from the screen will override the light coming from the control panel.  Plus who looks at their hands anyway when playing.... ;)
   

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #32 on: February 10, 2012, 11:07:21 pm »
Really nice artwork.

I'm not a big fan of 'MAME' artwork, but your AVP style is fabulous!  :applaud:

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #33 on: February 11, 2012, 02:25:49 pm »
Thanks dandare, I'm pleased with the marquee and the side art. I am seriously debating taking a stab at something for the control panel though. Cosmic Frostbite really is perfect for this use because of the way everything spreads out from the center where you end up putting the trackball, but so many people have used it, it seems a little played out. I'll see if I can come up with something unique, if not I have this one for a backup.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2012, 01:20:09 pm »
Alright, I am about to go out in the cold and make some progress. I picked up a straight bit for the router and have the slot cutting bit on the way. 2 questions:

1.  I don't have a miter saw, and would prefer not to buy one. I can think of at least two edges that will need an angle cut on them so they meet well with another piece of wood. Namely the very back with the angled top back slant. Any wood workers got a trick for these edge cuts?  Also when I build the control panel, I will need to cut 45 degree angles on the 4 box sides to fit them together.

2.  Epyx or anyone else... Im trying to find some demnsions on some neon rings somewhere but have not been successful yet. I would like to try and cut the circles in the sides of the cab today and need to figure out whether the rings are 15" on the inside or outside. I would assume 15 on the inside, but dunno.   

Ok, off to start the base.

bigmatty77

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2012, 02:01:33 pm »
You can make a simple mitre box for this

http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/miter-box.html

This is what i was going to do, but i didn't have to in the end as my boss at work gave me use of the table saw which is adjustable to 45 degrees, may be worth asking around relatives/neighbours etc to see if anyone has an adjustable table saw if its just for a couple of cuts.

Loving the artwork and theme on this build, great work so far  :applaud:

Brian74

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #36 on: February 13, 2012, 11:09:44 am »
would you be willing to share your artwork please?
         

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #37 on: February 13, 2012, 11:33:13 am »
Some progress yesterday ...

Although no routing or base work got done, I did change the shape of the cab.  It was just too bulky and generic.  I cut into the front of it, and am debating making a few more tweaks.  I will hold off on any more cuts until I really measure and anticipate the placement of the Makvision monitor I am about to order ...



Dont be jealous of my ghetto clamps.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #38 on: February 13, 2012, 02:20:56 pm »
would you be willing to share your artwork please?
I will more than likely share it once the cab is done, I dont want anyone showing me up before I am finished.
« Last Edit: February 13, 2012, 02:55:34 pm by TheShaner »

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #39 on: February 13, 2012, 07:59:41 pm »
If your gonna incorporate speaker rings, the inner diameter for a 15" speaker ring speaker ring will be about 14".  Cut a 14" hole and you should be fine.

Check out this link http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=31417.0, Knievel's tutorial on mounting these things to your cabinet.

I followed this and mounted lumin discs with my speaker rings.



Keep in mind as you will see in the tutorial the overall hole size will depend on how much of a glow that you want, smaller the hole the less glow you get.  If your too afraid to screw up your sides, order your rings first and trace the inside, and use the router to cut your circle.  I used a 12" speaker ring and cut a 11" hole, and it worked out great.

Also, I would secure your speaker rings as well, folks have stopped manufacturing, and retailers are basically selling out their inventory, especially on the 15" rings.

Epyx had a hell of a time getting his 15" green ones and he had already cut his holes. Luckily, I helped him locate a set on ebay, and that was a few years ago.

Looking good though. :applaud:

I can identify with those clamps, use some scrap blocks and clamp to those, that will keep those hideous clamp circles off your baby. ;)
« Last Edit: February 13, 2012, 08:20:14 pm by rablack97 »
   

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2012, 10:35:48 am »
Awesome stuff.  Thanks Black.  Im glad you posted this, I was actually thinking of mounting them in a completely different manner, but this is a much more solid approach.  I also like that the rings behind the wood, and thus producing an indirect glow. I will more than likely route the holes in the cab today then.

I have actually located some green neon rings, and had called the manufacturer to get an inner measurement on them, but was still waiting for a call back on that.  So your post was well timed.  I will still verify the size, but 14 inches is looking like the ticket from everything Ive seen.

That plasma disc looks really cool inside your cab.   :notworthy:  Props!

On a different note, I am really debating the laminate vs paint option.  Laminate is nice, resistant to dings and looks overall like it was made in a professional shop, but I am also thinking with a spray gun, I could do a nice transition from Green at the bottom to black on top.  Almost like the lettering in the logo.  Ahh, decisions decisions ....

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2012, 12:17:57 pm »
Epyx could give you more feedback on the laminate. It is durable and it's so much easier to work with.

Although there's nothing like the pop of a good paint job.....Heed the words "GOOD".  Lots of elbow grease involved, and if its not good it looks like steaming pile of horse manure.

Take a look at this thread, JaveryH did a killer job on Bella http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=59828.0

I'm sure your familiar with Ond's work, but his stuff in from a different galactic race.  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.0  Huge thread but so many innovations, will make your head spin.

Read through this one too..Gamester did lumin discs and circle cutouts as well...and posted one the is best spray paint can paint jobs i've ever seen. Unbelievable, the finish was a mirror  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94891.0

Finally, check out rdowney's cab...this site has lots of photos and it should give you some great ideas for your cab, he was one of the guys that guided me through my build, especially during the wiring phase....http://rdowney.com/arcadeodyssey/

I attempted Gamester's approach, it turned out ok, but as i was moving it upstairs I took a huge chunk out of my beautiful paint job with the table saw.  So about 2 weeks worth of work was basically ruined.  I just filled it in and it just so happens to be on the side no one will ever really see.  So paint is pretty if you dont gash it.  I"ve also heard laminate gets pretty pricey.  So its all about budget and preference really.

Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2012, 12:26:43 pm by rablack97 »
   

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Epyx

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #42 on: February 14, 2012, 05:24:08 pm »
Quote
Epyx could give you more feedback on the laminate. It is durable and it's so much easier to work with.

Paint is awesome when done with painstaking effort ie Bella's Cab, whereas laminate can probably be done by a small army of trained bonobo chimps..it's that easy to throw glue on some laminate and trim it for a perfect finish.

Cost is not that much more expensive when you factor in your labour...exterior sides and interior sides of a cab can be laminated within an hour for the whole job...even with a paint gun and sanding you would be hard pressed to have something approximating a laminate finish in an hour...spend multiple hours and it will undoubtedly look better but those are hours of your time.

I have done both and will likely stick to laminate for future projects as you can get it in almost any colour (special order).  I am also not above admitting that I stroke my cab from time to time in a gentle caressing fashion (hey its Valentines day...) and laminate feels nice.

Just my 2 cents :)
« Last Edit: February 14, 2012, 05:44:46 pm by Epyx »
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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #43 on: February 14, 2012, 08:47:26 pm »
I agree with Epyx on the laminate factor. I will only use laminate now because it makes for such an awesome finish.
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who caresses my cabinet every now and then.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #44 on: February 14, 2012, 09:04:12 pm »
I agree with Epyx on the laminate factor. I will only use laminate now because it makes for such an awesome finish.
I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one who caresses my cabinet every now and then.

Hah! I was into inappropriately groping my cab way back,  Epyx knows it, I described it ermmm somewhere in my proj thread  :laugh2:

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #45 on: February 14, 2012, 09:06:43 pm »
I will have to think about this some. I was able to find 5 sheets on eBay for $130, which is reasonably priced.

The biggest question I have if I go laminate is assembly. If I do thing the way epyx did, I would be laminating first, then assembling. This means no screwing from the outside. So what does that leave me doing? Brackets all over the place?  Seems a little odd.

On another note, I ordered the 15" neon rings and the 3" happ green illuminated trackball today.  If I can make up my mind and get going in a direction, I could start assembly real soon.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #46 on: February 14, 2012, 10:27:57 pm »
Quote
The biggest question I have if I go laminate is assembly. If I do thing the way epyx did, I would be laminating first, then assembling. This means no screwing from the outside. So what does that leave me doing? Brackets all over the place?  Seems a little odd.

Wouldn't you just countersink the screws through the bracing and screw in from the inside of the cab.

If memory serves me cause its been a while, i didnt have any holes on the outside of my cab and i didnt use any brackets..

Read hear I followed this guys plans as well, no holes on the outside of the cab.

http://www.arcadecab.com/CabinetPlans2/CabinetPlans2_Ledgers.html
« Last Edit: February 14, 2012, 11:05:17 pm by rablack97 »
   

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mgb

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #47 on: February 14, 2012, 11:51:58 pm »
Why not assemble the cab as normal and then laminate the outsides.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #48 on: February 15, 2012, 10:53:30 am »
Why not assemble the cab as normal and then laminate the outsides.

I am leaning towards this direction.  I would obviously have to laminate the back and top pieces first as there would be issues getting things flush.  There is also the issue of the exposed inside walls of the cab.  By this I mean the roughly 1" that I am going to have exposed by insetting everything.  I suppose I will probably paint that portion.  I plan on painting the front wood green much like Epyx did.  I have a unique idea or two for this front area...

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #49 on: February 15, 2012, 09:32:36 pm »
Good sized update today... all good, with one major exception ...

I measured out the Makvision monitor I am going to order on cardboard to get a sense of placement and depth, and to determine the exact placement of the circular holes that I was going to cut for the side art.


With that worked out, I was able to get the side art holes cut with a very crude circle jig...


The finished cut


I also got my slot cutter in the mail today, woo hoo!



Here is where things took a turn for the worse ... I did a quick test for placement on a scrap, and all was fine.  Then I started routing one of my sides, and by the time I was done with part of it, I noticed the line was crooked.  WTF!  I reset the bit and started going again.  Man, this cut just got more and more jacked up.  By the time I routed the inner circle and the rest of the sides, I had weird cuts all over the place.   Upon closer inspection, I realized the bit was slipping.  :angry: Not sure how, it was tight!  But regardless.  I fiddled with it until I felt comfortable that it would slip again, and did the other side, the control panel and the front of the base without a hitch.  So, now Im thinking to myself, the jacked up side is either going to get redone, or maybe I can go over it again and salvage it.  So I rerouted the whole thing again.  I ended up with double slots in places ance really thick grooves in others.  Have a look at my pain ...  :cry:




Im pretty sure with enough wood glue and some patience, I can get the tmolding into this piece and get it to set.  Once it's in there, you shouldnt be able to tell.  What do you guys think?  I can redo the side all together if I need to, but I'd rather not!!  That's a lot of work!  Im pretty sure I can salvage it.

Other than that though, I am pleased with the amount of progress.  Im about to go back out to the garage and start building the base.  I would really like to get some upright progress by the weekend!




« Last Edit: February 15, 2012, 09:42:45 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #50 on: February 15, 2012, 09:53:23 pm »
I vote woodglue, just make sure you're locking into the correct slot or you'll be all off kilter.  You could use filler and then re-route the whole thing but I don't think it's necessary. 

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #51 on: February 15, 2012, 10:46:26 pm »
Well I can tell you this wood-glue won't fix that.  I did the same thing you did on my control panel. Cut the slot too big in a spot.

I tried wood glue, super glue, sealer......That T-molding would would not bond to the wood. Gorilla glue might work but your talking your entire side here, that T-molding is not gonna sit tight like you think it will.  I'd redo.  Your too early into this to start cuttin corners now ;D  

Also, when you cut your slot did you account for 1/16" or so for the laminate, so the T-molding lip will sit flush?

Honestly its not alot of work you have 2 beautiful templates to work with.  My dumbass cut a beautiful control panel top had all the holes for the buttons and trakball, eveything....l'll be damned if i didn't cut the slot with the panel upside down. The lip of the t-molding that was suppose to sit flush with the plexi was on the wrong side, which made my jstiks on the right side of the buttons.....

I went into how the hell can i salvage this mode too.  I ended up redoing....Just take your flush cut router bit and use your jacked sides as templates, take all of 30 mins to do 2 more.  Then your good to go...
« Last Edit: February 15, 2012, 10:57:15 pm by rablack97 »
   

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #52 on: February 15, 2012, 11:05:37 pm »
If it had of been a single edge, I would have Bondo filled it and routed it out again.  I’ve done this myself on a couple of slip ups and it’s worked well.  Strong contact adhesive similar to the stuff you’d use on laminate could be used to glue in the edging but I wouldn’t do that.  You’ve got a side to use as template so cutting the sides out rough and then running a router around them using the template won’t take that long.  Taking the tip from rablack97 I’d slot cut a test piece allowing the offset for the laminate and check that the cut is going to work before giving it a second go.  I know it's a big pain the ass to have re-do work (I really do) but you'll be happier when that T-molding clicks nicely into place.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #53 on: February 16, 2012, 05:39:30 pm »


Alright, Im going back to formula!

These cab sides are over 2 years old and I have been looking for a reason to jump outside of the box and do something a little more unique, so I'm scrapping everything and going back to the drawing board.  I am keeping the artwork for the most part, but am going to change the shape of the cab sides and slightly change the shape of the control panel.  

I went to a local arcade today, yes, there is still one in town here though it was completely dead, and milled around for ideas.  While everything there was stale, it did spark the imagination and I was able to glean some really killer ideas.

So with that said, I'll be back in a week with some new chit.

Thanks for the help, see you in a week!
« Last Edit: February 16, 2012, 06:01:37 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #54 on: February 17, 2012, 05:24:56 pm »
Ok, well I lied.  I figure I will keep the same thread going as there is some good info in here that might help someone.  The plight from beginning to end is more valuable than multiple threads.

Spent some time on the drawing board today and redesigned the control panel.  Previously I had used Knieval's photoshop template.  This time, in the spirit of making this a truly original cabinet, I am doing my own from scratch.  So, I designed the shape in Illustrator today.  This will help in the long run, since it is vector, I can send the design off to an acrylic shop and have them cut from the .ai file.  This will ensure a perfect overlay for the control panel.  Rock.  Once the control panel is finalized, I will post the ai template for anyone who wants to use it.

Here is what I have so far:  Not drastically different, but the right curves make it look a little more alien I think.


After Illustrator, I took it into photoshop to get the actual art going.  I have continued to use the Cosmic Frostbit image for now, but that will more than likely be replaced.  This gives a better representation of what it will look like though.




Next will be the cabinet.  I am not going to completely deviate from what I had before, but I am going to try and put a few more cool angles and some curves in it.  Straight cuts = lame.  
« Last Edit: February 17, 2012, 05:44:27 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #55 on: February 17, 2012, 08:19:35 pm »
I like the new shape.  More organic / alienish.  Are you just going to recut the outline on your existing CP or are you starting over with a new piece?

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #56 on: February 17, 2012, 08:50:58 pm »
I'm gonna cut a new one. I want this to be a complete redo, plus the dimensions are slightly different.   I'll probably cut it tomorrow night.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #57 on: February 18, 2012, 12:45:56 am »
Quote
The biggest question I have if I go laminate is assembly. If I do thing the way epyx did, I would be laminating first, then assembling. This means no screwing from the outside. So what does that leave me doing? Brackets all over the place?  Seems a little odd.

What's an example of where you would even want to screw on the outside?  I can't think of anything other than Donkey call where it was just to match the original aesthetics...other than that you should not have to put any screws on the outside...maybe I am missing something but can you give an example?
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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #58 on: February 18, 2012, 11:00:59 am »
Epyx, that is just the way I had always seen it done.  I am not a woodsmith, so going straight into the support pieces from the outside seemed like the normal way to me.  Coming from the inside seems ddangerous!  Drilling angled pilot holes, then screwing into them, seems like it would not provide as much support as you would be going all of the way through the support beams, and only halfway into the mdf.     I know Im probably wrong, just thinking out loud.  I would rather not have screw holes on the outside!

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #59 on: February 18, 2012, 12:14:47 pm »
Meh, there's a million ways to skin a cat. Many original arcade cabs have carriage bolts going from the outside into the support brackets. Do what you're most comfortable with, it is your cab after all.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #60 on: February 18, 2012, 12:28:17 pm »
Definately, thanks Neph.  I would like to approach the joining of the pieces in the best way possible, so I definitely appreciate and encourage the input.   I am going to try and join this from the inside, so I am going to have to read up on the technique involved.  Am I correct to assume that I am looking at a bunch of angled pilots and perfectly measured screws?

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #61 on: February 21, 2012, 03:18:39 pm »
Assembling from the inside is pretty easy.  If you get skeptical about strength use some construction adhesive along with it.  Considering the thickness of the cab you could probably get away with just glue and some dowels but some screws would make it much sturdier.  If you arent ready to free hand your pilots make a jig for the thing.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #62 on: February 21, 2012, 03:33:36 pm »
Quote
Epyx could give you more feedback on the laminate. It is durable and it's so much easier to work with.

Paint is awesome when done with painstaking effort ie Bella's Cab, whereas laminate can probably be done by a small army of trained bonobo chimps..it's that easy to throw glue on some laminate and trim it for a perfect finish.


I'll have you know I resemble that remark...

Regarding the cost of laminate, look up your local WilsonArt distributor (if you have one) and buy direct from them.  I got two sheets of 4x8 black laminate for around $65, total, last year.  Just ordered it by phone, drove over and picked it up.  It looks so good, a buddy of mine who does professional carpentry asked me where I'd gotten melamine boards.  (I take no real credit here, I just followed Epyx's tutorial, and it turned out great.)

Regarding assembling from the outside, piece of cake, just countersink the screws, then laminate over that when you're satisfied.  It's easy (must be, since I did it).  Lazy man's countersink (doesn't matter if it's an ugly hole, since you're covering it with laminate anyway):  just stick a small triangle router bit on the end of your drill and jam it in the screw hole.  Whirr, done.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2012, 03:36:32 pm by alfonzotan »

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #63 on: February 21, 2012, 07:46:15 pm »
Regarding assembling from the outside, piece of cake, just countersink the screws, then laminate over that when you're satisfied.  It's easy (must be, since I did it).  Lazy man's countersink (doesn't matter if it's an ugly hole, since you're covering it with laminate anyway):  just stick a small triangle router bit on the end of your drill and jam it in the screw hole.  Whirr, done.

I like the cut of your Jib Al.

Some progress today ...

Went ahead and cut the new control panel.  I must say I like the shape even more now that it is actually cut.  The top is old panel, the bottom one I cut today.


The cutting went a lot smoother this time too.  I have found after doing this twice now, that if you cut the paper before taping it, on everything but your corners, it is a lot easier to see that jigsaw blade while you are cutting cause the paper is not getting in the way.  Then you can do a really rough cut for the rounded corners and sand them down.  Also, if you are drilling the holes for the buttons, it is a good idea to go ahead and mark each hole a little with your 1 1/8th bit first.  Sometimes the paper will rip away when you are doing the full hole and you end up guessing.  If you just use the center of the bit to make a mark first, you can go back and do all of them without worrying about the paper ripping.



Also got the trackball in today.  3" illuminated HAPP Golden Tea replacement.



Should have the Neon rings in tomorrow.  If anyone is looking for those, they can still be found.  These guys still have stock of them:  http://www.pyleaudio.com/sku/PLNR15BL,  They are a little cheaper on ebay though.  I'' post some exact measurements on them once I get them for anyone trying to plan.

Picking up the wood for the sides tomorrow, going to try and get those started.  With any luck i might be doing some assembly this weekend.


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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #64 on: February 23, 2012, 02:04:34 pm »
A little more progress ...

So I sat up last night and redesigned the cab sides.  I started off by laying one of the original sides down on top of a new piece of MDF and traced it.  Then I started playing with it.  I really wanted to do something a little more unique than what I had before, so I started drinking and sketching.  By the time I was drunk, I had a pretty good set of curves on the baby, and what was cool was that 75% of the shape now was done freehand so it looks a little more natural.



One of the nice things about officing out of the house is that I can take a lunch break and knock out some cab work, which is exactly what I did today.  Here is the completed cut sitting next to the old side, a lot better in my opinion.  Im still probably going to sand the back a little to smooth out that curve, but it's pretty darn close.



Last it looks like I will be cutting a 3rd control panel.  I realized yesterday that my design was flawed.  The 7th "run" button that I added to the original six is too close to the joystick.  So I have removed the templates I put up here and will post them again once I have corrected the spacing issue.  At least I am getting really handy with power tools with all of this redo work!

Nephasth

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #65 on: February 23, 2012, 02:11:36 pm »
I like the shape of your new pieces, looks a lot more organic, more "alien".

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #66 on: February 23, 2012, 02:39:30 pm »
A little more progress ...

So I sat up last night and redesigned the cab sides.  I started off by laying one of the original sides down on top of a new piece of MDF and traced it.  Then I started playing with it.  I really wanted to do something a little more unique than what I had before, so I started drinking and sketching.  By the time I was drunk, I had a pretty good set of curves on the baby, and what was cool was that 75% of the shape now was done freehand so it looks a little more natural.
I am a big fan of your planning process.  Best method I have heard about in years.

My only concern is how will you handle the front bottom portion of the cab?  That is a mighty big curve.

One question, what are the three buttons above each player?  Player 1/2, Coin, ___________
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #67 on: February 23, 2012, 02:48:13 pm »

I am a big fan of your planning process.  Best method I have heard about in years.

My only concern is how will you handle the front bottom portion of the cab?  That is a mighty big curve.

One question, what are the three buttons above each player?  Player 1/2, Coin, ___________

Thanks Green.  I have spent years perfecting my planning process.

The curve will only be on the sides.  I am going to run the front straight up about an inch in from the center most of the curve.

On the buttons ... I had originally had player 1/2, coin and pause.  Now I am starting to rethink the coin button.  I really want to force the user to use tokens.  I will either need to find another button I can use there, or nix it.  Guess I better figure it out before I cut the next control panel.  I really dont want to have to do it a 4th time.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #68 on: February 23, 2012, 03:02:57 pm »

My only concern is how will you handle the front bottom portion of the cab?  That is a mighty big curve.

Oh man, you gotta try kerffing that thing first.  It's not too steap and would look completely sick.  Great lines so far, better and better man.   :applaud:

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #69 on: February 23, 2012, 03:04:14 pm »
.......  I really want to force the user to use tokens. 

Just a thought, I'm doing the same thing but I'm still providing myself with a 'secret' credit button either under the CP or somewhere else.  I'm going to use a really small pushbutton inset into the surface i.e. flush with surface the same colour as my cab.  

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #70 on: February 23, 2012, 03:06:51 pm »

My only concern is how will you handle the front bottom portion of the cab?  That is a mighty big curve.

Oh man, you gotta try kerffing that thing first.  It's not too steap and would look completely sick.  Great lines so far, better and better man.   :applaud:

Or you can just take plywood and curve form it over some shaped ribs  ;D.

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #71 on: February 23, 2012, 03:10:19 pm »

I am a big fan of your planning process.  Best method I have heard about in years.

My only concern is how will you handle the front bottom portion of the cab?  That is a mighty big curve.

One question, what are the three buttons above each player?  Player 1/2, Coin, ___________

Thanks Green.  I have spent years perfecting my planning process.

The curve will only be on the sides.  I am going to run the front straight up about an inch in from the center most of the curve.

On the buttons ... I had originally had player 1/2, coin and pause.  Now I am starting to rethink the coin button.  I really want to force the user to use tokens.  I will either need to find another button I can use there, or nix it.  Guess I better figure it out before I cut the next control panel.  I really dont want to have to do it a 4th time.
An exit button perhaps.

I have 2 exit buttons wired in series on either side of my control panel.  Also have 2 pause buttons wired parallel.  This way on two player games it takes both players to exit a game but either player can pause it.  Don't want any kids getting beat to have an easy way out.

As for coin buttons.  I wired up 2 buttons underneath my control panel on the part that hangs out from the cab.  My coin door also works in case I want to disable the buttons underneath.  Nice part is that disabled or not, you don't ever see them.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #72 on: February 23, 2012, 04:03:01 pm »
Oh man, you gotta try kerffing that thing first.  It's not too steap and would look completely sick.  Great lines so far, better and better man.   :applaud:

Ive never really done any wood work before, so I had to look up kerfing after I realized it wasnt a misspelling.  That kicks ass.  I am totally going to go for trying to make the curve.  It wont be exact as I will need enough flat to get the coin door in, but I should be able to match the curve pretty good.  Thanks for the tip Chuck!

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #73 on: February 23, 2012, 04:15:34 pm »
Oh man, you gotta try kerffing that thing first.  It's not too steap and would look completely sick.  Great lines so far, better and better man.   :applaud:

Ive never really done any wood work before, so I had to look up kerfing after I realized it wasnt a misspelling.  That kicks ass.  I am totally going to go for trying to make the curve.  It wont be exact as I will need enough flat to get the coin door in, but I should be able to match the curve pretty good.  Thanks for the tip Chuck!
If you can do the curve, split it into 3 section.  Have the coin door projecting outwards almost in a box.  Then on either side of that have the curved part.

If you can pull it off, it will look amazing.  Damn I really need to update my cab.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #74 on: February 23, 2012, 09:33:40 pm »
Yeah I'm using your same layout and from experience, you won't ever use that darn pause button.

Unless you plan on hanging around in mame the whole time you play, that button is practically useless.

You can always disable your credit buttons if you want via the IPAC, or just unplug the buttons.  I had your same theory about forcing quarters, but some days you just wanna hit a button and play.  I got a great deal on my coind door, but it's been used all of ZERO times.

I think theres some kerfing in this thread somewhere http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.0

Some more right yonder http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=91011.120

Good luck on those curves, considering you mentioned you dont have great working skills you sure picked a hell of a curvy project to practice on....Will look sweet if you pull it off though....

Don't fret though, i didnt know jack either about woodworking, bought all the tools from day 1.  All i had was a drill to start off with.

Next thing you know i'm building touchscreen ticket booths for my media room...It amazing what you learn from an arcade machine build
« Last Edit: September 25, 2012, 11:24:28 pm by rablack97 »
   

2016 Texas Pinball Festival - Best Arcade In Show - MKX

dandare

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #75 on: February 24, 2012, 03:51:16 pm »
Really loving the new shape cp and cab!

If you finish this cab with only making 3 control panels i applaud you.  :applaud:

My basement is basement is a control panel graveyard!

What joysticks are you going to be using?

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #76 on: February 25, 2012, 10:48:19 am »
Thanks Dandare, I am actually going to tweak the shape just a little bit tomorrow.  I am going to smooth out the top and back.  I already have it drawn on the wood, just need to sand out the angles.  Going to go as organic and flowing as possible.  Then I am going to route the other piece with a flush bit, and then cut control panel#3.  Im not drilling the holes until I get the joys in though.

I ordered some green LED joys from Paradise Arcade.  Has anyone used any of these before?  If so, do you have a measurement on the underside? 

Man, I came up with the best idea last night.  Not going to let the cat out of the bag yet, but if I have enough time tomorrow to start it I will share. 

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #77 on: February 25, 2012, 11:11:26 am »
You change avatars more often than I change socks. 

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #78 on: February 25, 2012, 06:21:23 pm »
I'm working on my image. Gotta look my best for all the ladies here on the boards.

Epyx

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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #79 on: February 25, 2012, 09:56:14 pm »
Shaner, the CP looks great as do the cuts...can't wait to see some kerfing updates ;)
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Re: MAME Abduction
« Reply #80 on: March 05, 2012, 11:44:35 pm »
Small update, with some goodies.

Ive been able to get a bit of work done over the past week.  I sanded down the angles in the back and front of the box to a more organic curve.  Then, took a flush trim bit to the second piece and made the clone.  That sure does work well.  The first time I cut sides, I did two pieces of mdf together at the same time. It was really really hard.  This time I followed the advice of the form and traced the first piece, then cut a little out from the trace, clamped the two together and ran a flush trim bit on it.  Wow, it worked like a charm and was fast.  I will say for anyone out there about to do this, the closer you cut with your jigsaw to the traced line, the easier the flush trim bit will be to work.



I copied my control panel that had the misplaced 7th button in it in the same manner.   Here's the completed product:



I found out that the router I was borrowing was stripped where it held the bit, so the bits would slip out some at times.  This is apparently what caused my initial problems when running the tmolding slots.  So, after narrowly escaping the same dreaded fate when cutting the circles out of the sides, I went ahead and bought a router to call my own.  Man, they sure are fun.

While working on all of that, my sticks from ParadiseArcadeShop.com came in.  The guy who does these is in Hawaii and sends come hawaiian candy with them.  The work is solid, I am not sold on the green though. 



And also the neon rings came in ... and it was discussed on this thread, but 14 inches is the right size to cut your hole if you are going this route.  It perfectly covers the ring and then just a litte, preventing direct light.  These are not in production any more, but are still available new on ebay.



Yesterday I started the base.  I must admit, it is probably a lot more sturdy than it needs to be, but hey, this thing is already going to be a hog, so whats a few more pounds for superior strength?  And hey, looky there, no more C clamps!  Im moving up! 



Lastly, I stumbled across a great set of casters today ... they match the theme perfectly.  coolcasters.com, they have all kinds of cool casters, pretty much as the name implies.  The only question I have is, they are rated at 110lbs a piece, will this cab weigh more than that?  Surely not.


TheShaner

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I also forgot to mention that I have almost finished redoing the artwork for the control panel.  I havent quite figured out the right way to wrap the odd shaped button set, but it is getting close.

Of course it looks a lot better in full rez.

« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 09:34:43 am by TheShaner »

TheShaner

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With the design directly above, I am going for an Alien control panel of sorts obviously. I envision it being something like a screen with tons of info and a display showing the action going on outside the ship.  Im working on a few more whiz bangs and might get rid of a few of the call outs.

The other option I am working with is going more abstract.  Sometimes simplicity is the key. So I am working two at the same time and will see which one sticks in the end.



Any opinions between the two?
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 09:36:01 am by TheShaner »

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I think I like the first one the most, but I don't like the text on the right side that I assume looks like it comes out of a computer.  The small blip of text on the left side looks much better.  The only other suggestion I have would be to darken the edges of the first one.  I like how the most abstract picture seems to fade to black at the border.

Are your buttons going to be lit?  I can't remember but I would assume they are.  If so I don't think you need to wrap the buttons.  I would suggest simply adding some green directional arrows around the joysticks.  Keep the button wrapping for the other stuff though.  Just not the 7 button layouts.

Otherwise your progress looks great.  Love the shape of the cab.  Wish I had gone abstract like that when I did my build, but I was a real noob with all of this stuff including wood work at the time.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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The more I stared at it, the more the second one started to stick out and I started seeing things in it... ribs and such, but I never liked half of this picture.  So, I duplicated it, flipped it, and whalah!!  This really looks alien now ... still debating ...



« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 06:14:03 pm by TheShaner »

Le Chuck

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Infinitely cooler.  I like that mirrored design. 

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+1 on the artwork.   

   Looks good. Kind of remind me of the alien from Independence Day or better yet the one from the original Contra. 




 :cheers:

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Thanks, I think so too. The more I look at it the more I am seeing an insect-like face in the middle and Kewl slimy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- everywhere. I'm gonna keep on tweaking. I'm pretty sure this one will be the one I go with. it's making me question the marquee now though damnit!

Green Giant

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Thanks, I think so too. The more I look at it the more I am seeing an insect-like face in the middle and Kewl slimy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- everywhere. I'm gonna keep on tweaking. I'm pretty sure this one will be the one I go with. it's making me question the marquee now though damnit!
That new one looks great.

I like the free floating buttons on the left player.  Making them symmetrical really boosted it up.


Post a picture of the marquee and the new control panel design on top of each other.  They may still work just fine.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

TheShaner

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Post a picture of the marquee and the new control panel design on top of each other.  They may still work just fine.





I think Im good.  I might tweak a tad ... but all in all I think they still relate enough
« Last Edit: March 06, 2012, 07:08:07 pm by TheShaner »

Green Giant

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Those look great together.  No reason to worry about continuity.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Le Chuck

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Right above the trackball it kinda looks like a wee alien head.  You should tweak that area just enough to where it's unmistakable.  That would cinch it.  I like the shading on the current joy overlays but I like the shape on the one that is from earlier today.  I also liked the button halo of the earlier one also.   

TheShaner

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I agree, I was planning on bringing the head out a little more. The joysticks from earlier seem a little weak, but I am still working on those. What halo are you talking about?

Le Chuck

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Awesome, thanks for the feedback. I agree, I was planning on bringing the head out a little more. The joysticks from earlier seem a little weak, but I am still working on those. What halo are you talking about?

CP in reply #84.  Ring around the right set of 7 player buttons.  Commonly refered to as a halo, that ring thing, doo-dad, whatzit, and Ringo.   

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I ended up with modded Sanwa JLW-TM-8 Joysticks that have a similar green and like the way they look unlit but they are definitely lighter like yours look in the picture...for me it matched the T-Molding nicely...what T molding are you using?
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Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?

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Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?
Pretty sure that is the only one that will work.  Don't worry though, with the shade of green in your CP, it will look just fine.  My CP has similar shades of green in it to yours.
"He lives down there in his valley,
The cat stands tall and green,
Well, he ain't no prize, and there's no women his size,
And that's why the cat's so mean"
Toxic Arcade, my first build

Epyx

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Quote
Ill be doing the Galaxian green from TMolding.com of course!  Is there any other green?

Ya there are but this is the nicest  :cheers:

And agreed it will all match and look fantastic!
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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated Mar 17 ***
« Reply #98 on: March 17, 2012, 01:06:00 pm »
Managed to get some time in over the past couple of days...

I had a friend that said he had the perfect casters for me.  When I got a hold of them, I realized they were just slightly too big, so I ordered the casters off of coolcasters.com I found previously.  I got those in the mail the other day, and wow, they really are cool.  If they hold up, I highly recommend them.  They are plastic in the middle, which concerns me, but they are supposed to be rated at 110 lbs each, which should suffice, so I hope they can stand the weight.  I'll find out for sure I suppose when I get a big ass CRT in it.



So with the casters in, I was able to get the base finished.  This thing is built better than my house.  Probably as heavy too.



And with the base finished, I could finally start putting things together.  



It was a bit tricky attaching things to the base by myself.  I ended up setting a building stud underneath each of the sides then using bar clamps to hold them in place until I could drop some screws.  I got lucky in that the studs thickness really gave me the perfect height off the ground.  Having the sides on it after all of this time really has me stoked.  The shape looks even cooler now that it is upright and attached.  

I probably should have routed the slots for the T-Molding before putting things together, but meh, I dont mind laying it on it's side once I get another support or two in place.  I have some routing I need to do on the sides here soon anyway.  I will explain that in a few days once I get to it, but it is a super cool idea.

Still debating paint vs laminate deal.  I would really like to do a black base, then paint a gradient from green to black, but I am not sure how tough that is going to be.  I need to research the technique and the tools involved.  I dont have a compressor or a spray gun, so I know that will be a bit of an expense and I doubt I can get away with spraypaint cans.  

On the door and the hinges involved ... I want my door to be as flush as possible in the back.  I have seen some cabinet hinges that I think will fit the bill.  Any suggestions in this area are welcome.

I should be trying my hand at some kerfing this week.  Stay tuned!
« Last Edit: March 17, 2012, 01:17:04 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #99 on: April 03, 2012, 12:42:20 am »
Ive made a little progress and figured it would be a good time for an update.  I've also had a lot of cool goodies come in the mail!

First off, I have tried kerfing several times and just simply did not like the results I was getting.  I think the at problem is that I do not have a lot of room to work with.  The coin door needs a good amount of space and at least 12 inches of height, which is hard to spare down there.  So, I have decided to go more of a low tech straight ahead approach.  This started with the right sized flat area for the coin door, then worked a few angled pieced in from there.  The plan was to get those in place, for the most part, then fill some of the area with wood putty and sand in some of the transitions between the pieces to give them more of a curve.  I didnt want to do this just yet though as I still need to place this guy on it's side to route the t-molding slots into the sides just incase the stress of being put on its side might goof with the putty.  So here is what I am talking about...



I do realize that the last piece before the kickplate appears to have a little gap on one side, but I am going to fill that up and sand a nice curve into it.  There is already a nice curve to it, but the pic doesn't do it justice.   At the same time, I got some pac cards in ...



iPAC4, OptiPAC and a PACLED64.  The iPAC4 is probably a bit of overkill, but I would rather have too many than not enough.

With this goodness in, I started working on the box for the control panel...



Don't ask me why there was a mallet there, I have no idea.  Here is an idea of what the machine is starting to look like with the pieces coming together...



I had some question on the color of the TMolding I was going to use.  I was not sure about getting green buttons from Happ and trying to match them with the other green molding, so i ordered a couple of samples from TMolding.com.  If anyone wasnt aware, you can order samples from them for free.  I ordered 2 of each green and got 2 6" samples in astonishingly quick.  Now I am 100% sure on the Galaxian green.  It looks way cooler, and I will just go with black buttons now.  having these samples also gave me the last piece I needed to go ahead and get the slots cut.  If you guys remember, this is where my project went south a couple of months ago because of a faulty router and a slipping bit.  I have since picked up a cheap Ryobi and despite the low price tag, it kicks butt. If you are a casual Router user, it works just fine and absolutely has enough power.  No need to go spend a ton of money on something crazy.  It cut through my MDF like butter...



I was totally stressed about doing this part, but it came out absolutely perfect.  

And yet another toy came in the mail today ...



Im looking forward to getting the rest of the panels in place so I can get to painting and ultimately to the electronics.

On another note, I just finished restoring my Cyclone pinball machine, which is ridiculously fun and will make a great partner for my MAME machine.


« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 12:44:00 pm by TheShaner »

Seith

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #100 on: April 03, 2012, 10:16:32 am »
 :applaud:

Absolutely fantastic looking so far!  Keep it up!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #101 on: April 04, 2012, 03:17:44 pm »
Questions...

What thickness of mdf did you cut your CP out of?  3/4" ?

Did you plan on putting plexi on your artwork?

Did you plan on outling the CP with T-molding?

It's been awhile since I've done mine but I could of sworn I used a thinner piece of MDF (maybe 5/8", i suck at fractions and measurements) so the T-molding, mdf, and plexi all lined up....

So after looking at your CP I'm hoping you didnt cut it out of the same MDF you cut your sides out of. If not no worries....

Looking good though.......... :applaud:
   

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #102 on: April 04, 2012, 04:12:24 pm »
Questions...

What thickness of mdf did you cut your CP out of?  3/4" ?

Did you plan on putting plexi on your artwork?

Did you plan on outling the CP with T-molding?

It's been awhile since I've done mine but I could of sworn I used a thinner piece of MDF (maybe 5/8", i suck at fractions and measurements) so the T-molding, mdf, and plexi all lined up....

So after looking at your CP I'm hoping you didnt cut it out of the same MDF you cut your sides out of. If not no worries....

Looking good though.......... :applaud:

rablack,

Yes, I am cutting it out of 3/4th and am about 90% sure I am going to overlay it with 1/8" plexi or lexan and am definitely going to have tmolding on it.  The control panel I have that is going to be used (probably) is the 4th one I have cut, for one reason or another, and they have varied in thicknesses.  I am actually going to take Knievel's advice on this one and go for the thicker wood (as opposed to 5/8" thick) since I am going to be top mounting the joysticks and trackball.  This will give some added thickness and support.  I will adjust my slot cutting bit so that the tmolding will cover the plexiglass too and sand an 1/8" bevel into the bottom portion of the control panel so that everything lines up well.  Make sense?


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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #103 on: April 04, 2012, 04:32:42 pm »
Also, I cut the hole in the front for the coin door last night.  I ended up picking up a new Multiplayer door from Happ.  The 40-0008 in particular.  



I chose this one because I was limited on space and could not do an over under.  I will end up getting a coin box that hangs from the inside of it.  And of course I ordered green coin slots for it!

Despite the fact that there are some dimensions for it, I could not find a template to print for a guide.  I suck at measuring anything out except on a computer, so I made a template for it.  If anyone else needs it, I have uploaded it to this post.  It makes life easier.

« Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 04:38:36 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #104 on: April 06, 2012, 12:39:54 am »
I gotcha, although, I did the same layout that you are doing, minus the buttons on each side of trackball.

I top mounted the j-stiks and the trackball as well, and my CP is sturdy as an ox.

I guess it's all in preference, just seems like more work to get it flush, especially since you will have to toy around with that bevel to get it just right.

Looking forward to seeing your progress on the CP....
   

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #105 on: April 06, 2012, 10:27:18 am »

[/quote]

rablack,

Yes, I am cutting it out of 3/4th and am about 90% sure I am going to overlay it with 1/8" plexi or lexan and am definitely going to have tmolding on it.  The control panel I have that is going to be used (probably) is the 4th one I have cut, for one reason or another, and they have varied in thicknesses.  I am actually going to take Knievel's advice on this one and go for the thicker wood (as opposed to 5/8" thick) since I am going to be top mounting the joysticks and trackball.  This will give some added thickness and support.  I will adjust my slot cutting bit so that the tmolding will cover the plexiglass too and sand an 1/8" bevel into the bottom portion of the control panel so that everything lines up well.  Make sense?


[/quote]

Just wondering when Knievil gave this advice as it was my understanding that he used 1/2" MDF with the joys top mounted into that.  Then a 1/8" board to cover that.  And then the 1/8" plexi. 

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #106 on: April 06, 2012, 03:33:15 pm »
That's an interesting approach with the 2 pieces of wood then the plexi. I talked to him a few days ago about this, so it might be the approach he is taking now, or I misunderstood him. Regardless, I think it will work out ok.

I have spent the past couple of days putting on wood filler, and sanding it away trying to get some nice smooth transitions in the curve on the base. It's a b-itch, my fingers are raw and I'm only about halfway done. It is a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. Boo hoo, poor me. Wah wah. I'll stop crying now. Blood sweat and tears!  It wouldn't be a worthwhile project if it didn't have all three.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #107 on: April 26, 2012, 12:29:05 pm »
I have spent the past couple of days putting on wood filler, and sanding it away trying to get some nice smooth transitions in the curve on the base. It's a b-itch, my fingers are raw and I'm only about halfway done. It is a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. Boo hoo, poor me. Wah wah. I'll stop crying now. Blood sweat and tears!  It wouldn't be a worthwhile project if it didn't have all three.

Agreed.  Any progress on this part of the project?

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #108 on: April 26, 2012, 01:47:54 pm »
Love this design and artwork... it's gonna look great when complete.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #109 on: April 26, 2012, 03:42:22 pm »
Man, it's funny you ask ...

Ive been sanding, and filling ---my bottom--- off for the past 3 weeks or so.  Wood filler is a bunch of crap.  I started off with the Elmer's.  It seemed great at first, but just cracked a lot and was overall too soft for my comfort.  I was afraid of denting and what not.  So I moved to Minwax filler.  Which was indeed a lot harder, and a much better product.  I recommend it for small items.  But in my case, I am trying to reshape curves, so I am putting a bunch down and trying to sand it into the shape I need.  You talk about raw fingers and dusty garages.  I got it to the point to where I thought it looked pretty good ...





Then I went ahead and primered it.



It looked pretty neat, but put under the light of the garage at night, I could really see some inconsistencies.  A few lumps here, a little unevenness there.  I have plans to have a cathode under the control panel, and know it will end up throwing all kinds of shadows and those bumps will stand out.  Cant have that!!

So I toiled over it for another week or so, building up filler, sanding down problems ... rinse and repeat.  Have I mentioned yet how much I hate filler?  I guess I should have given kerfing a bit more of a chance.  Anyway, I did this until last night, I was working one of the troubled spots for the 100th time, it was somehow separating from the wood underneath it, and enough was enough.  I did some research on bondo, thinking that was where I was headed.  And while it seems like it would work, it is a little crude and hard to work with.  As I dug deeper though, I stumbled into the Epoxy options.  Namely WoodEpox and Sculpwood.  Expensive yes, but can you put a price on sanity? 

This morning I stripped the damned filler off of the machine with some hardcore grit ...



Then ran off to the one place in town that carries this stuff and bought it.



From everything I have read, this stuff is playdoe that turns into wood.  It can easily be sanded, drilled, screwed into and routed.  I have played with a little bit of it and wow.  It really is awesome.

So now that I have what I need, I am going to stock up on beer, get some chicken for the grill, and spend tomorrow night sculpting my curve.  I am stoked and think it will turn out kick ass.  My hope is to have it back on it's rollers by Sunday so I can get the back and top on it.  I need to hurry up and get things ready as I have a Makvision 29" CRT in transit as we speak!

Pass or fail, Ill post some pics on Saturday of tomorrow nights progress.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 2nd ***
« Reply #110 on: April 27, 2012, 04:09:24 pm »
So now that I have what I need, I am going to stock up on beer, get some chicken for the grill, and spend tomorrow night sculpting my curve.  I am stoked and think it will turn out kick ass.  My hope is to have it back on it's rollers by Sunday so I can get the back and top on it.  I need to hurry up and get things ready as I have a Makvision 29" CRT in transit as we speak!

Pass or fail, Ill post some pics on Saturday of tomorrow nights progress.

 :cheers: Good luck!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 26th ... somewhat ***
« Reply #111 on: April 27, 2012, 05:15:03 pm »
Interested in how that stuff works out.

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Updated April 26th ... somewhat ***
« Reply #112 on: April 29, 2012, 01:11:45 pm »
Alright, I was able to do a good test of the WoodEpox.  I must say, it is some really awesome stuff.  In one night, I was able to accomplish more, with better results than over 3 weeks of work with wood filler.  Here are some pics:

Standard epoxy setup


The stuff isnt very tacky, so I put a little wood glue down first, and it stuck.  Here is the gap roughly filled.


Rolled out:


Sanded:


I really cant say anything negative about this stuff.  If I had to, It would be that it is a little crumbly at first, but that quickly goes away after the chemical reaction happens.  I checked on it this morning and it is freaking hard, sands like wood and feels like wood.  I am going to finesse the curve a little more, but it is very close after one application.  With enough time and care, you really could make anything out of this stuff and it would be hard as a rock.  I'll never use filler again, not even for screwholes.  It is expensive, but hell, I am working on a money pit anyway, so whats another few bucks?

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Re: MAME Abduction *** My monitor has been cancelled, need some help ***
« Reply #113 on: April 30, 2012, 05:03:02 pm »
Ok, so I got a call from the dude over at x-gaming.com a bit ago, and he told me that they are no longer shipping through UPS or anyone else.  If I wanted to still buy this monitor, I will need to pay another $100 bucks on top of the $60 I am already paying to get it to me on a palette.  To that I say suck it.  I wanted to be a purist on this machine, but Im not going to let them cram one up the ol stinkhole and find my happy place while they do it.

So the way I see it, I have 2 options.

1.  Find a TV that fits the bill.  From what I have read, Sony Trinitrons seem to fit the bill nicely.  I have found one locally for around $50 bucks (27").  How difficult are TV's to configure?  Is it worth it?
2.  LCD's.  What are my options for a large LCD?  I really want to fill up my 26.5 inches wide inside the cabinet as much as I can, but really don't see any 4:3 LCD's of that size.  Can anyone point me in the right direction, or let me know what others are doing?

Thanks!

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Re: MAME Abduction *** Monitor has been cancelled, need some help ***
« Reply #114 on: April 30, 2012, 05:14:17 pm »
That should just fit a 27 or 28" widescreen LCD.  I am a fan of the real estate on the widescreen.  Many of the horizontal games that played in 4:3 and actually go a little bit wider and fill more of the screen.  You will also get any PC games that play in full widescreen.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #115 on: May 07, 2012, 11:45:21 pm »
Decent update today ...

So here is where things were...  I had finished construction of the control panel base and had a few of the panels on the back top area ...





Little WoodEpox, Little sanding ...


Control Panel base primed and painted



I started painting the sides for the heck of it.  I had some 1/16" formica coming in soon, but I couldnt help it, I wanted to see what it looked like.  It looked really slick, but I had already roughed up the sides in prep for the laminate, so you could see the scratches.  I must say, paint does look pretty good though once it is on.

But then the laminate came in.  I did not have the luxury of laminating the sides before assembly because I was undecided on the paint vs laminate option until about a week ago. So I referred to EPYX's laminating tutorial, and modified it a little to work with the sides on the bottom and the laminate up top.

I clamped the full sheet down on to the top of the cab laid on its side. Took a marker and traced an outline of the cab about 2 inches out. Then did a really rough cut with some industrial scissors.  Cleaned all surfaces and started in with the contact cement.





let the glue drie then laid down the rods



Pulled the rods and set in with the router



And the final result.  Hot damn that looks good!



The only issue with the night was side two.  There was a big storm rolling in and I was rushing.  I got the laminate in place and started trying to route, but had a slip up and damaged the laminate.  I pulled a lot of it, but damn that cement is tough, and the laminate is brittle.  I got a lot of it up, but I have a lot of work to do tomorrow to get the rest off and remove the glue.  Good thing I bought 5 sheets of laminate, so I have a few sheets to spare.



One word of advice, work with contact cement in a well ventilated area.  I didnt tonight, and now my beer tastes like glue.  Im still drinking it, but it tastest like crap.

Santoro

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #116 on: May 08, 2012, 07:37:17 am »
Looks good, by far I love working with laminate over paint.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #117 on: May 08, 2012, 11:38:26 am »
Yeah wood filler is no good.  Bondo is your best friend in these cases.  It's like your epoxy only even better.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #118 on: May 08, 2012, 03:16:57 pm »
Yeah wood filler is no good.  Bondo is your best friend in these cases.  It's like your epoxy only even better.

Ive played with bondo before, and while it is good stuff, it is a little hard to work with.  This Epoxy is like play-do that turns into wood when it dries.  It is super light and you can route/drill/sand it exactly like wood.  It is the shiz.

Got a lot of things coming in the mail the next few days...

1.  Lots of green convex LED buttons from paradise arcades ... I was going to go a different approach, but this project is taking a really long time and I need some Galaga action.
2.  Artwork - Gameongraphix.com - Here are the finals:

(I left this one linked to Flickr so you could see it a little bigger.  The size shown here on the boards does not have enough detail to see cool details like the scanlines behind the player controls etc.  I will post pics once they come in.)


This has been trimmed down to a height of 7.5 inches.  Quite a bit shorter than I had originally anticipated, but the cabinet design changed mid stream.
3.  Makvision 29" SVGA Monitor - This should be the last big expense.  Thank the maker!  I am running out of kids to sell.
4.  Seagate Baracuda 1TB drive - This is a starting point.  I am not sure how complete I am going to want my ROM collections.
5.  Plenty of Green Cathode tubes

After that I will just need to figure out the sound and power.  I wanted to get a Logitech z-2300 sound system, but ouch!  Those are freaking pricy.  Any recommendations out there?

On the PC I picked up a 2.8 Dual Core Intel board with 2g of memory.  I would think that should suffice for what I want to do with this cab.  I am going to put a beefier one in the next cab, which will be an LCD based system meant for playing more modern console and PC games.

« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 01:12:37 am by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #119 on: May 08, 2012, 04:59:41 pm »
......this project is taking a really long time...


 8)  no it isn't, looking good though and very much worth the effort you've put in so far.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #120 on: May 08, 2012, 05:05:56 pm »
......this project is taking a really long time...


 8)  no it isn't, looking good though and very much worth the effort you've put in so far.

Well of course you would say it isnt taking a long time, oh king of the neverending project.   ;D  But I do agree, I am pleased with the outcome so far.  I just really dont feel like cutting up buttons, and the more I look at them, the more I like how the PA buttons look.  :-)

Now back to this ---smurfing--- glue removal.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #121 on: May 08, 2012, 05:54:40 pm »
..... this project is taking a really long time

My slim LCD is not done after 5 years. 

*insert Mission Control gag here*

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #122 on: May 08, 2012, 06:14:17 pm »
..... this project is taking a really long time

My slim LCD is not done after 5 years. 

Actually I finished it ages ago, I'm just having trouble finding the right tights to wear in the video


Inserted.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #123 on: May 08, 2012, 06:15:17 pm »
 :applaud:

Can anyone beat that?

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #124 on: May 08, 2012, 07:13:15 pm »
I dont know about you guys, but I would actually like to play some video games.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #125 on: May 08, 2012, 09:44:10 pm »
Hah the worst thing i did was make mine playable.   When start to work on it my roommate comes over and wants a game puzzle fighter that turns into like 20 games and a 12 pack.  I need to yank the cpu out or something to finish.

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Re: MAME Abduction- UPDATE May 7th - Painting and laminating
« Reply #126 on: May 08, 2012, 11:56:31 pm »
I converted a Joust cab a couple of years ago and the same thing happened to me, got about 80% there, made it playable, and never finished it.  Ended up selling it to help fund this one.  Definitely wont happen this time.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 03:10:19 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #127 on: May 12, 2012, 09:46:11 pm »
I am working on the control panel now and have run into an unanticipated snag.  I need to see if anyone knows how to approach this.

I have routed my control panel for the metal plates that are used to mount the joysticks and trackball.  The trackball is right on the money and looking good.  The joysticks though are not as easy.  I have the wood routed correctly and everything fits, but I didnt think about the screws to mount them.  How the heck am I supposed to get these flush??  Here is what it looks like with a screw in it ...



Perhaps punch in the hole a little so the screw sinks in, a different screw?  Is there such a thing as a metal countersink?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #128 on: May 12, 2012, 09:50:39 pm »
You need one of these.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #129 on: May 12, 2012, 10:01:15 pm »
Is there such a thing as a metal countersink?

Any help would be appreciated.

Yup, it's called a drill bit. Just don't drill the hole all the way through.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #130 on: May 13, 2012, 11:22:41 am »
Awesome, thanks.  I am a mental midget when it comes to fabrication.   :dunno

My control panel should be done within the next few days.  Got everything routed, just need to mount the joystick plates.  The control panel artwork should be in within the next couple of days and I should  be set to start wiring. 



Fun stuff.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #131 on: May 15, 2012, 09:36:04 pm »
I like this project.  :applaud:  I found the perfect barstools for you.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #132 on: May 16, 2012, 10:07:02 am »
Thanks spkywlnt,  where did you see the bar stools at, they are pretty cool.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Working on the control panel
« Reply #133 on: May 16, 2012, 08:31:05 pm »
Here ya go.   http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Bar-Stools/2023/subcat.html.   Once you get there, just click on furniture on the left and then barstools. For some reason the link won't bring you straight there. I just googled barstools and thats the first place I checked. If you find them cheaper somewhere please let me know.
« Last Edit: May 16, 2012, 08:44:04 pm by spkywlnt73 »

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction - Control Panel & Computer Setup
« Reply #134 on: May 17, 2012, 09:33:34 am »
I about have the cabinet done.  I am just lacking the marquee mount, the back door, speaker mount and a couple of other smaller items.  I am going to start painting the green for the front today.  I have been debating whether to actually cover the front piece with a piece of laminate then paint that.  It would really smooth things out, but man, if I screw something up, that would be a nightmare to remove.  I will probably paint it first, see how things look, then make the decision on the laminate.



All plates are in the control panel.  The hinge is in place in the front, I am just waiting on the artwork to come in from gameongraphix.com, then I will get that finalized and ready for wiring.



The monitor came in two days ago and I have the mounting studs in place for that.  I will hold off until I am a little more complete and can bring the cabinet inside before I mount it.  I really dont want that $500 chunk of electronics sitting in the garage.

Makvision 29" trimode SVGA


I have the speakers now and will put those in place here within the next few days.

Altec Lansing Expressionist MX6021


I chose these because they got good reviews and I liked the way the tweeter and mid range speakers were mounted.  Nice and easy to remove and mount into a cab.

Lastly, I am working on the guts now too.  I have mounted the motherboard, but am sitting here staring at the power supply and hard drive.  The hard drive should be easy enough to find an l-bracket or something, but the Power supply does not seem so straight forward.  If anyone has any examples, I would like to see them.

Also on the power, I have a 550W power supply coming in.  That should be enough right?  I also have a arcade power supply (pictured above), but I would rather stick to just the computer power supply if possible. I am only going to be powering the actual computer parts and a few cathode tubes with it.  So, I think I should be good.

Still on the power, I am trying to work out the best way to get power into the cab.  I dont want to just plug a power strip in the box.  I have come this far trying to keep things pro, so a power strip seems cheap.  I will have to research some options.  Once again, any examples anyone has would be great.



rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction- Control Panel and Computer Setup
« Reply #135 on: May 17, 2012, 06:48:17 pm »
I dont see anything wrong with a good power strip, especially the ones with controlled outlets, so everything will shut down and turn on at the same time. Cut the cord and connect it to plug i have pictured and you have a clean look from the outside.

I used 2 power supplies, one for lighting and the other for the computer system.

I jumped the supply not connected to the PC, and the setup has been working great.

I used a hard drive rack from an old PC and bolted that down, and slid the drives into that.

The power supplies, i used some wide L-brackets with the multiple holes  (you can see one on the DVD drive) and just add a new hole where necessary.

LOL, you want pro you should have bought a compete manuf kit.....the joy about this hobby making something great out of nothing....you can make a power strip do wonderful things and look great.  It's been greatness so far.....keep it up
« Last Edit: May 17, 2012, 06:51:29 pm by rablack97 »
   

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GIZMOGAMES

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Re: MAME Abduction- Control Panel and Computer Setup
« Reply #136 on: May 17, 2012, 11:18:46 pm »
awsome work so far the greens gonna pop especially on the controlpannel with the led buttons and joys keep up the great work :D bookmarked for ease of reference :)  :burgerking: :applaud:

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Control Panel and Computer Setup
« Reply #137 on: May 18, 2012, 12:48:02 am »
Thanks! I have been toiling over wood for so long it is awesome to move past that phase to start doing ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- that shows off that work. I just finished painting the green lower half and damn, it looks freakin sweet! I will
Post some pics once I have a little more to show.

TheShaner

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Ive made some good progress, so time for an update ...

The cabinet is very close to completion. I finally got a back door installed the other day.


Then was able to finish the painting is done for the most part ...


And the computer is mounted and loaded ... Apparently Windows XP has an exciting new look.  



I had a bear of a time getting the ArcadeVGA card to work well with the setup, but after a bit of finagling, it is working well now.  The only problem I have is most games will not run.  I do not know if it is an issue with this card and the monitor it is attached to not supporting any weird resolutions, but I will troulbeshoot that a little more once I have the monitor in the cab and have everything pulled in the house.

Yesterday I sat next to the window like a 5 year old waiting for the ice cream truck, but the truck I was waiting for was brown, and it did have something pretty damned sweet on it, the marquee and control panel artwork!

So I ordered these through gameongraphix.com.  The quality is very very nice.

Marquee:


Control Panel:


While the quality of the prints were good, I do have several gripes.  The glue used to mount the marquee artwork to the plexy is crap.  when I got it, it was full of bubbles and the corners were pealing up.  It was also not mounted on evenly.  I am going to peal it up and remount it with some better glue.  The size is also off.



The control panel artwork was a whole other nightmare.  Despite being rolled up in a nice hard round tube, It was severely bent in several spots leading me to believe it was bent before it was placed in the tube.  If you look in the picture above you can see the two huge creases on either side of the trackball area.  This made it ridiculously hard to get on the control panel correctly.

I am also going to have to say that while the material is pretty awesome, Unless you are mounting it on anything other than a totally flat piece of wood or plexi, dont use it.  I place it and you can see every depression and other inconsistency in the surface.  On mine there is a really obvious depression on the joystick and trackball plates.  While not a game stopper, I am seriously debating remaking the whole control panel now.  Since I have already routed the tmolding slots, that is what I would have to do if I wanted to go plexi.  I am going to finish the project first then see how much it bugs me.  It is only obvious if the light is right, which it may be under the glow of a monitor.  

Anyway, enough bitching and back to the good stuff.

Lining up everything was a little tricky.  I had the control panel printed with a little extra black around it so that I could trim it to size.  I ended up putting a light underneath the control panel so that the holes would shine through the material and give me an idea of where the holes were before I stuck everything.  Worked like a charm.



So after the control panel artwork was mounted, I got to mounting the buttons.  Here's the final product, not perfect, but pretty damned sharp.







Its going to be a busy week now.  I plan on mounting the monitor, getting the marquee in place, and mounting the speakers.  If im lucky, maybe even a little wiring.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2012, 01:46:56 pm by TheShaner »

BadMouth

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Looks sweet! 

They are never really finished though.
There will always be some new emulator or accessory to add.  ;)

TheShaner

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A shot of the cp sitting on the cab ...



The colors in the artwork came out a nice match.  I am still unsure about those joystick ball tops.  They really look yellow.  I guess I will wait till I light it up to make the verdict.

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« Last Edit: February 12, 2015, 05:46:48 am by Louis Tully »

Los Abrazos Rotos

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Thats a serious cab, well done

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Looks sweet! 

They are never really finished though.
There will always be some new emulator or accessory to add.  ;)
Ain't that the truth  ;D
Looking great, just take your time as you are near the home stretch.
"You don't know the power of the Dark Side"
Automated Cabinet
Nintendo Pi
PiCubed

TheShaner

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Thanks guys. 

Darth, it's hard to slow down when you are on a roll, but I am being cautious.  With that said, no slowing down yet ... just got the tube mounted ...



Probably going to go ahead and get the rest of the TMolding on tonight ... then tomorrow its back to getting the speakers mounted ...


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This is coming together nicely!


Nice railroad lantern! :)

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Can't wait to see some more of this!

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Looks great, I love the cabinet shape, the theme, the black and green etc etc.

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What a difference TMolding makes ...



On to the speakers and marquee.  Getting close to power ...

dandare

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that is looking sooooooo good!

it just screams 'PLAY ME'!

I bet you can't wait to peel that plastic off the monitor.

truly awesome!  :applaud:

TheShaner

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Thanks dandare!  I'm amazed that it is coming out as good as it is, I don't know what the hell im doing. That should give some confidence to some of the other noobs who don't get started cause they have never cut a piece of wood.

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Is that Galaxian green T-moulding?

Looks so good!  :applaud:

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Is that Galaxian green T-moulding?

Looks so good!  :applaud:

In the future it will be known as 'MAME Abduction green' T-moulding

Los Abrazos Rotos

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Just read this thread from the start - to produce something of this quality when you have never cut a piece of wood is quite an achievement!  Amazing.   :applaud:
« Last Edit: May 26, 2012, 10:10:15 am by Los Abrazos Rotos »

Le Chuck

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 :o you ain't kidding.  Looking great  :applaud:

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I love it, its insanely ambitious but hes totally pulled it off.

TheShaner, are you putting glass in this?  It kinda deserves it.
« Last Edit: May 26, 2012, 10:13:37 am by Los Abrazos Rotos »

TheShaner

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I love it, its insanely ambitious but hes totally pulled it off.

TheShaner, are you putting glass in this?  It kinda deserves it.

Yes, I plan on putting some smoked acrylic or glass in it.  More than likely I will go with glass just because it seems cooler.

On another note, I am making a major change.  Since the beginning I had been making this with the intention of doing neon rings in the sides ala Epyx and Knievel, but that is now out.  I have been working through an idea lately and the neon rings will not allow me to do it.  The thought is to have every light on this thing pulse in unison.  From the glowing under cab lights, to the marquee and buttons, etc.  To do this effectively, I will need to use LED's through the whole thing.  I ordered a LED marquee thingy from GGG and have some green LED strips coming in for the undercab.  I will end up replacing the NEON rings with LED strips as well.  I will just need to diffuse the light a little to try and get a good indirect glow out of them.

With that said, I now have a secondary power supply just for the lights, and will need to get another pacled on order.  I figure I will be getting to the electronics on this cab within the next week and a half.  Fun stuff!

« Last Edit: May 26, 2012, 11:50:39 am by TheShaner »

TheShaner

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Is that Galaxian green T-moulding?

Looks so good!  :applaud:

Yep, definitely galaxian green tmolding. Also, the matching paint is valspar 6005-10c Greenway. Valspar is lowes I believe.

rablack97

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I love it, its insanely ambitious but hes totally pulled it off.

TheShaner, are you putting glass in this?  It kinda deserves it.

Yes, I plan on putting some smoked acrylic or glass in it.  More than likely I will go with glass just because it seems cooler.

On another note, I am making a major change.  Since the beginning I had been making this with the intention of doing neon rings in the sides ala Epyx and Knievel, but that is now out.  I have been working through an idea lately and the neon rings will not allow me to do it.  The thought is to have every light on this thing pulse in unison.  From the glowing under cab lights, to the marquee and buttons, etc.  To do this effectively, I will need to use LED's through the whole thing.  I ordered a LED marquee thingy from GGG and have some green LED strips coming in for the undercab.  I will end up replacing the NEON rings with LED strips as well.  I will just need to diffuse the light a little to try and get a good indirect glow out of them.

With that said, I now have a secondary power supply just for the lights, and will need to get another pacled on order.  I figure I will be getting to the electronics on this cab within the next week and a half.  Fun stuff!



Can you elaborate on this a bit more, you want the entire cab to pulse in unison?

Are you gonna use a led-wiz and led-blinky to control the lights?

If so the Led-blinky on top of the hyperspin patch(if thats the front end your gonna use) will allow you to do all sorts of cool stuff with your lights.

The neon rings should have come with a audio sensor, mainly keyed to bass tones.  So you could get a pulse just from the sound of your arcade.  I know you have a vision but to me, a single pulse of all the lights would get boring after awhile, and take away from the attract mode of the machine.  Once you get to programming your leds and seeing what you can do, i highly doubt your gonna wanna stick with one single unison pulse.  With a little work you can use led-blinky and have all your lights blink to the different frequency's from your speakers and have the neon rings light up on the low notes...Just my opinion.

Overall your work is bad ass man, the beast is looking awesome.  I love it love it it......giving Epyx a run for a little competition on the alien builds... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:  

« Last Edit: May 26, 2012, 02:30:53 pm by rablack97 »
   

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TheShaner

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Rablack, I don't intend on having the whole thing pulse in unison the whole time, just one of the tricks during attract mode or startup, I haven't seen that far into the future. On the pacled/ledblinky question, yes and yes. Already have them and will start choreographing soon.

The main point behind ditching the neon rings was that I want total control over the lighting.

Thanks on the kudos
« Last Edit: May 26, 2012, 02:45:29 pm by TheShaner »

rablack97

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Understood, gotcha now.....

We used the about the same layout and idea....

Take a look at this video I did a few years back, and it will give you some insight.

Control Panel Video
   

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Los Abrazos Rotos

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I love it, its insanely ambitious but hes totally pulled it off.

TheShaner, are you putting glass in this?  It kinda deserves it.

Yes, I plan on putting some smoked acrylic or glass in it.  More than likely I will go with glass just because it seems cooler.


Go with glass!

TheShaner

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So I am probably going to go with glass, cut about 1/8" shy of the width of the cab so I can make sure it fits.  After a lot of reading, I have determined that it should be smoked to help with the contrast and hide the sides when the picture is oriented vertically.  That is all good.  The question I have though is this ... Is there a percentage of opacity or any other measurement of darkness that I will need to communicate to the glass seller?  Or any other nuances that people in the know that are familiar with glass would get?

TheShaner

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Is it wierd that I sneak out to the garage and secretly caress this machine late at night?

Drnick

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Is it wierd that I sneak out to the garage and secretly caress this machine late at night?

That all depends on if you get dressed up (Or undressed  :censored:) before you start the caressing.   

rablack97

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I'm sure you will use a local vendor for the glass....

If not go to One Day Glass, its cool cause you can submit super accurate measurements in the wizard.

They are good and reasonable

Here's what you need, just change up your measurements...

Shape: Square/Rectangle
Glass Type: Tempered
Glass Thickness: 3/16"
Glass Tint: Solar Gray (Light Gray)
Edgework (Step 1): Pencil Grind Satin Finish
Edgework (Step 2): 1, 2, 3, 4
Option: No Tong Marks
Width: 25 7/8"
Height: 25 1/2"
« Last Edit: May 28, 2012, 10:17:25 am by rablack97 »
   

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rablack97

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Is it wierd that I sneak out to the garage and secretly caress this machine late at night?

It's a natural instinct.......no different than rubbing on a classic car.....your still in "I can't believe I built this shock" :blowup:

Track how many times you "go and just check on it" knowing you really don't have anything further to do on it at that time.
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update May 24th - Artwork, painting and computer setup
« Reply #167 on: June 02, 2012, 09:40:49 pm »
Decent progress in the past week...


So I started this week off needing to mount the speakers.  First the controller:


I pulled the bottom of this off, then drilled two holes into it.  Two bolts were sipped through the holes and the back replaced. I also routed out a space for the cable to come out of the back instead of the side, then filled the other hole with silicone.  Then holes were drilled into the cab just under where the control panel will be and everything slipped into place.



The finished product ...



Pay no attention to the trimming.  I still need to detail the line where green and black meet.

Next the underhang where the satellite speakers needed to be mounted.  I dismantled the midrange and tweeter speakers, then routed the wood for an exact fit with a Dremmel.



The finished result:



The lights in the marqee are from Groovy Game Gear.  They looked cool so I am going to give them a whirl.  Pay no attention to the odd placement of them.  I was trying to place them in coordination with the artwork.  Chances are I will probably end up placing them uniformly, but I want to see how it looks first.

On the base speaker, I am going to create a box with one open side on it.  It will be 2 inches wider on all sides than the bass speaker.  Then I will place the speaker inside the box and stuff the free space with insulation.  the entire box will be seperated from the rest of the cabinet by rubber feat to help reduce vibration.  Finally, I will cut a hole around the same size of the bass speaker in the back door and cover it with some form of metal mesh.  This will let the bass escape out of the box.

Yesterday I was able to go get the glass.  Solar Gray 26x22 for about 35 bucks.  not too shabby.  I went ahead and taped off the needed area and took to it with some spraypaint.  I thought about doing a bezel, but that seemed pointless with the glass.  The spray paint looks AWESOME on the other side of the glass. 





And the final result. 



All the while I have been working on the computer.  I have all of my roms in place and am almost done with my MALA skin.  More than likely I will get started wiring the control panel here within the next day or two. 

TheShaner

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Looking at the last picture more closely there is a glare making the right side of the glass look weird. It is sharp as a tack in person.

BadMouth

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Looking at the last picture more closely there is a glare making the right side of the glass look weird. It is sharp as a tack in person.

You can tell it's just a glare.  Looks great!
The green front really makes the cab pop.

Not suprised you ended up going with MALA, but was hoping to see a custom Hyperspin theme that matched the cab since it's not done that often.
I may give Hyperspin another try for my next driving cab project.  I think I can get it to do what I want for that one, but definitely not for the current build.  At least not without even more time consuming workarounds than I'm already putting into MALA.

Any particular reason that you put the tweeters toward the middle instead of the outside?

TheShaner

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No particular reason on the tweeters, it just seemed to work out aesthetically.  Ive fired it up and it sounds awesome.

On MALA vs Hyperspin, I am still not 100% on going with MALA, but am working in that direction to keep things moving.  I might end up switching though.  I don't like the overhead, but it is pretty slick otherwise.

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@TheShaner just saw this thread which also made me realize I hadn't logged in for a while so apologize for not getting back to your questions earlier although I just did but probably too late! :)

Looking great btw! It's been 3 years since my Aliens cab was built and I still play it at least a few hours every week...this weekend I probably put about 5 hours into playing on it...you will be rewarded so enjoy :)
Last Project



Epyx Tutorials:
Tutorials

Vidiot

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I really love this project. I saw your post in the Mala vs. Hyperspin thread. I found a cool looking mala setup on youtube. I wanted to share it with you. I thought it might give you some ideas. Looks like it would fit your theme really well. Minus the rotating monitor of course. I dunno who this guy is or anything about his cab. Just thought this looked cool. Keep up the great work on your cab!  :cheers:



TheShaner

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Cool, thanks Vidiot.  That does look pretty cool.  I did not realize you could do an animated background.  That opens up a world of possibilities.  

I have a very rough outline of what I am going to do.  Here is the graphic so far ...



Of course it looks a lot cooler full size (so I left the link to the flickr upload active) and It still needs some work, but once I settle on placement of everything, I will probably break the panels up to fit each individual item (marquee, video, control panel, etc.).  With the ability of being able to animate the background, I will probably pulse the background slightly lighter to darker and back leaving the logo and the panels lit at their current opacity.  I dont want to get overly complicated with the design, but I definitely want it to fit.  I will more than likely remove the logo the more that I think about it as well.  It is already on the control panel and the marquee.  Dont want to over do it.

On the same note, I am testing this all in a Virtual Machine on my Mac, and I am noticing a delay before the video starts on each of the games when they are selected.  I havent tested on the actual cabinet yet, but am curious if anyone else notices a delay while the video loads ... or if it is just the VM.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2012, 01:24:25 pm by TheShaner »

BadMouth

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I am noticing a delay before the video starts on each of the games when they are selected.  I havent tested on the actual cabinet yet, but am curious if anyone else notices a delay while the video loads ... or if it is just the VM.

The delay is in there on purpose so it doesn't try to load every video if you're scrolling through quickly.
It's adjustable in the cfg file

VideoDisplayDelay=1
VideoDisplayDelayInterval=1000

I'm not using video in my current layouts, but for the new cab I plan to stack the video on top the snapshot.
So as you scroll through, you see snapshots, but if you stop at a game, the video will start playing over top of the snapshot.
I assume this is how most people do it.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2012, 03:51:06 pm by BadMouth »

TheShaner

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Awesome idea on the video/snap overlay BadMouth.  I will more than likely do the same.


TheShaner

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I managed to get the computer into the box last night and achieved a massive woodcrafting feat, I made a box.



I took the rubber feet off of the subwoofer and attached them to the bottom of my glorious green box.  Then I took some carpet padding and put a couple of layers underneath the sub to try and minimize vibrations.  lastly, I am going to take off the back door and cut a good size hole in the back of it to let the bass escape and some cool air get in.  I will more than likely put some kind of metal grate painted on the inside of the door to cover the hole.  I must admit, I am a bit nervous about taking off the door as it is such a perfect fit right now, but screw it, I need to do what needs to be done.

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 :applaud:  That looks just beautiful.  Nice work.

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Awesome build! This build thread and all your pictures are the main thing that gets me through my boring days at work!

This is great inspiration for what will be my first cab build, very soon.

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Thanks bsktbllmn23, but I must say, if this thread is what gets you through the work day, you must have a really crappy job.   :-\

I started wiring today and wanted to throw a quick post up about it.  I may have mentioned before, but I got my joysticks and all of my buttons through paradise arcade.  When I got the joysticks in, they looked yellow instead of green, and the buttons look more like happ pushbutton green instead of Galaxian like everything else on my cab.  However, when I started wiring things up and looking at everything, those buttons and joysticks light up with a great colors that are very close to the Galaxian green.  I am extremely surprised and pleased. 

Its impossible to take a picture that shows it well, especially not with an iPhone, but here are a couple of shots.




So the point is, if you are going green, Paradise Arcade has good chit.

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Beautiful man. This is looking awesome! :applaud:


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Thanks bsktbllmn23, but I must say, if this thread is what gets you through the work day, you must have a really crappy job.   :-\

Dude, can I sign up for your "how to accept a compliment" seminar?  :laugh2:

Cereally, your build is looking great.  Keep it up.

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My job is incredibly boring at times... and I have to pretend that I am intensely reading an email. But of course, I am intensely reading this thread and taking diligent notes about to be awesome and building cabs. ;D

And Le Chuck, your commentary is second to none. Keep up the good work haha.

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Quote
However, when I started wiring things up and looking at everything, those buttons and joysticks light up with a great colors that are very close to the Galaxian green.

I was actually going to mention that to you when you said it earlier that not too worry once lit they are a very nice green. I have identical tops I believe. :)
Last Project



Epyx Tutorials:
Tutorials

TheShaner

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Well I've made some progress and had a pretty big setback ...

First off, the cab is done barring the circles on the sides.  I have been going back and forth on how I am going to approach these, but I will get to that in a moment.

First I got to wiring the power to the cab.  I found a belkin smartstrip which is really cool.  As most on the boards know it has 1 master outlet on it and several slaves that will turn on once the master draws a current.  So, hook the computer up to it, then the rest of your devices and when the computer is powered on, whala!  All of the other devices come on.  Pretty slick.  So I cut the end of the plug off, and went in search of a outlet that I could wire it to.  I almost used one from a computer power supply, but to be safe and avoid fires, I picked this one up for $7 that was rated for 15a, the same as the power strip.



Soldered up the lines from the powerstrip to it along with a heatshrink wrap to keep accidents from happening, cut a hole and screwed it in.  



It worked out well and I like having a nice clean plugable outlet on the back.  Slick.

Then added holes USB ports to the front of the box for lightguns and other hookups when needed:





Of course I still have corners to detail, so disregard the sloppy lines. I am also going to paint that area with a roller to give it the same texture as whats around it.  It is smooth now because of the sanding.

Found a good spraypaint at HomeDepot that matches the green tmolding for things like the fan guards.



Here it is incase anyone is trying to find some spraypaint that matches.  It's pretty darn close.



Then got to working on wiring up the control panel

img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7401660228_651f9516b8_c.jpg[/img]

Ive got almost everything but the LED's wired up.  I am waiting on some little connecters to come in the mail so I can wire those to the little PACLED board.  That has been a little bit more complicated than it would appear from the beginning and paying $12 a harness for 4 harnesses to wire up one pacled is a little pricey, so I will do it myself when they come in.

Ive also been working on shielding parts of the cabinet from the bass vibrations that will be coming from the bass speaker.  I will hit that stuff in another post when it is done.  Should be within the next few days.

Lastly I mounted the control panel.  I got some bolts, nuts, washers and wing nuts.  Drilled a hole small for the bolt in the cabinet, and a hole big enough for the nut in the bottom of the control panel.  This way, I could put the bolt in from the bottom of the board in the cabinet under the control panel, secure it with a bolt, lay the control panel on top of that and put a wingnut inside the control panel to hold it down.  All with washers in between.  It worked out really well and things are nice and secure.



... Abd inside the control panel:



Which leads me to the big bummer.  I finally plugged in my 29" Makvision SVGA monitor, and it doesnt work.  I had been putting it off because I didnt want to run any electricity to it until the end as I would be working around it and didnt want to have all that stored charge just waiting for me to accidentally touch it.  So when I hooked it up yesterday it locked up my computer before it could get to the windows boot screen.  I can't  even get into safe mode with it attached!  I get a disconnected message on the screen whether it is plugged into this computer or my other laptop.  No bueno.  I have contacted Craig at xgaming.com, but have not heard back from him.  My guess is that this one is going to get a little sticky because of the shipping charges involved, but we will see what he comes back with.  I will let everyone know how they handle it incase someone else is thinking about picking up a monitor from them.  
« Last Edit: June 19, 2012, 09:00:05 pm by TheShaner »

rablack97

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You might look into these

USB PassThrough

Looks good man.......awesome work...
   

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TheShaner

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Those look pretty cool.  I had looked high and low for some cool usb ports but couldnt find anything, so I settled for a bridge connector and tried my best to blend it into the cab.  I might keep looking and see if I can find anything with a cool plate I can work with and replace them if they look neat enough.  If anyone knows of any others anywhere please hook me up with a link.

rablack97

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Well they do come in black, i have a set, and they will be fairly hidden under your CP.  Run it by OND, i'm sure he'll tell you some ways to make those look pretty.
   

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PL1

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Those look pretty cool.  I had looked high and low for some cool usb ports but couldnt find anything, so I settled for a bridge connector and tried my best to blend it into the cab.  I might keep looking and see if I can find anything with a cool plate I can work with and replace them if they look neat enough.  If anyone knows of any others anywhere please hook me up with a link.

Same product in black. Datasheet has P/Ns for associated accessories.


SCDX cover available in green. (SCDX-5)
http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Connectors/XLR-Connectors/Neutrik-USA-Inc/SCDX.xhtml?SCDX


Scott

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 26 - Soundproofing and broken monitors
« Reply #189 on: June 26, 2012, 03:19:35 pm »
Small update today ...

So the saga on the monitor continues, but it almost at a close.  After talking to XGaming.com, who I bought the monitor from, they let me know that I was 4 days past the 30 day return deadline.  What a bunch of crap!  I had just now turned on the monitor for the first time and was getting the royal screwing.  I was told that my only option was to call Betson, who they get the monitors from.  I ended up doing that and talking to a guy named Frank who really kicked ass.  Unfortunately, my problem is apparently worse than just a cable that needs to be reseated.  So, I sent a pretty scathing email or two back to XGaming.com.  Because they could not work out shipping, I ended up waiting for almost a month just for them to tell me they could ship it.  My though was, I was patient and understanding with them, they should bend the 4 day overage.  In the end, they did me right and I have a new monitor in route as we speak.  So, props to them for doing the right thing.  I was armed and ready to flame them on the boards (eeew, scary internet tough guy!), but no need now.

I have been working on the details of the cab while trying to figure out the monitor problem.  Wiring buttons, lights, extra power supplies, etc.  I just now finished my sound/soundproofing strategy and figured I would share.  As you know if you have read the boards, I have taken apart some Altec Lansing speakers, and mounted them up front.  That all worked out fine.  The item in question was the subwoofer.  Not wanting to kill my hard drive, I have taken several measures to try and dampen the vibrations from this speaker.

First is the box.  The box is padded with carpet padding, covered with felt, and sits on rubber pegs.



The rubber pegs sit on small squares of carpet padding wrapped in felt and hot glued.


Yesterday I took off my back door, and cut a big hole in it to let the bass escape.


I then cut a metal mesh to fit that I bought from Lowes hardware store and Spraypainted it and some washers green.



Then I hot glued some felt around the trim of the inside of the hole to absorb any vibrations in the metal.  This should prevent it from rattling from all of the bass.


And attached the metal guard.


The finished product ...


Aside from the speaker itself, I also padded the two pieces of wood that support the computer with carpet padding and felt as well. 



Now its back to the lighting while I wait for the tube to come in ...

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 26 - Soundproofing and broken monitors
« Reply #190 on: June 26, 2012, 03:57:54 pm »
Don't worry too much about bass killing your drive, if it is mounting to somethin in your machine that's not gonna move, then your good.

I'm pushing 2 10" car woofers at around 600 watt's, hard drive sits right above them on a shelf, no issues and its been about 2 years or so.  Nice job on the soundproofing though.

Since you took the liberty of spray painting the grill some left over t-molding on the edges would look nice, for show off purposes  :applaud: :applaud:
« Last Edit: June 26, 2012, 03:59:37 pm by rablack97 »
   

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Martijn

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 26 - Soundproofing and broken monitors
« Reply #191 on: June 27, 2012, 11:20:35 am »
Nice little build there!

The green and black matched my just finished Gameboy Reloaded



 :cheers:



TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 26 - Soundproofing and broken monitors
« Reply #192 on: June 27, 2012, 02:51:40 pm »
Thanks Martijn, I am a fan of your Street Fighter build, and this gameboy looks pretty sweet as well!

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #193 on: June 28, 2012, 10:20:03 am »
Worked on some of the lighting last night...

A little while ago I bought a long strip of green LED lights off of eBay.  Quite the bargain for $13 shipped.  For that price I was not really expecting too much.


When I got them, I was quite underwhelmed.  Regardless I pressed on.  Yesterday I decided to go ahead and put some lighting inside the cab to light it up when I am showing off the inside or doing some work.  The strip actually worked out well.  You cut off what you need and solder to the copper connector circles on the ends.  I must say that is a ---smurfette--- because there is very little for the solder to grab a hold of.  I managed to get a few strips wired up though.



They have an adhesive back to them already, so I stuck several strips up inside the cab and ran them to a well placed switch...




The end result so far ...



These lights look way better than I thought they would.  Quite awesome really.  I would have never guessed. 

I still need to run strips under the cab for the underglow, and will possibly put a few well placed lights in other spots like under the control panel.  I will have to tinker with those to see what fits without going overboard.

The Rings

Originally I had planned on using Neon tubes for the side rings in the sides in the same fashion as Kneivel's Neon MAME machine.  Since then I have had a change of heart and have decided to go full blown LED.  Thus giving me the ability to control every light on the machine, except for the crt, from PACLED's.  I have thought about it and I think I know have the plan. 

My hole in the side of the machine is exactly 14" in circumference.  I plan on cutting a circle that is 14.5" out of white semi translucent plexi.  Then cut a 14" circle out of that, leaving me with a .25" ring of plexi.  Then I will get a 14.5" piece of thin black opaque plexi.  On this I will put the side art. 



The ring and the circle will then be glued together.  Finally I stick a strip of these green LED's to the outside of the white ring and attach the whole thing to the inside of the box sealing off the hole.  I think it should achieve a similar look as the neon, but give me the control of having LED's. 

I welcome comments / insight on this if anyone has any.

Also wired up the Marquee... I have not sealed any of the light leaks yet, but it does look slick though! Light sure does make it pop.




Replacement monitor comes in tomorrow!
« Last Edit: June 28, 2012, 10:31:29 am by TheShaner »

Nephasth

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #194 on: June 28, 2012, 11:06:26 am »
I would recommend adding a couple spots of hot glue to your LED strips, the adhesive on the backside isn't that great...

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #195 on: June 28, 2012, 11:39:57 am »
I would recommend adding a couple spots of hot glue to your LED strips, the adhesive on the backside isn't that great...

Good call.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #196 on: June 28, 2012, 04:16:39 pm »
this is a sexy cabinet :applaud:

how do you power up these led strip...just 5+ and ground?

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #197 on: June 28, 2012, 05:18:51 pm »
Thanks SNAAKE!  It's coming along nicely. 

I am actually running 12+ to it.  I took a molex connector and tapped into the 12v side of it and broke it out into a punch panel of sorts.  I am using that panel to distribute power to all of my "Off Computer" needs such as the marquee, all of these lights and various grounding needs.



I am about to put a smaller one below it for a few 5v connections too.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #198 on: June 28, 2012, 06:57:52 pm »
I may be wrong but i thought you were gonna try to control your marquee lighting and strips with the LED WIZ.

If so be advised that board only handles 5v and will ruin if you try to hook up 12v to it.

These may have been useful and easier for connecting the leds to your leads, for future reference.  See attached

Looks good though man.......awesome work.



   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #199 on: June 28, 2012, 07:06:26 pm »
I may be wrong but i thought you were gonna try to control your marquee lighting and strips with the LED WIZ.

If so be advised that board only handles 5v and will ruin if you try to hook up 12v to it.


Yep that was me.  I thought though, that if I tap into 12v power from a molex, then just use the PACLED64 for grounding that it should work.  Im no electrician obviously, so Im probably wrong, but the control on the PACLED64 comes from toggling the ground to a light ... right?  I had an email from Andy once saying that I could power my Joysticks in this manner since they have 12v lights in them.  
« Last Edit: June 28, 2012, 07:08:55 pm by TheShaner »

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #200 on: June 28, 2012, 07:08:20 pm »
... apparently there is no way to delete a reply?  I guess I will just type stuff in here then.
« Last Edit: June 28, 2012, 07:10:15 pm by TheShaner »

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #201 on: June 28, 2012, 07:33:42 pm »
I stand corrected, I went and looked at the LEDWIZ spec and 12v applications can be used.  I guess I didn't read it correctly, but your right, it would be a toggle of ground to led.

Not sure why that stuck in my head but I swore I read or someone told me to keep the leds specs to 5v......I dunno....Oh well that works out well for you then.

Looking forward to the next update.... :cheers:
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #202 on: June 28, 2012, 07:37:01 pm »
You keep referring to LEDWIZ, do you mean PACLED64?  The LEDWIZ is the software driving it isnt it?

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #203 on: June 28, 2012, 07:40:07 pm »
No go to groovygamegear.com and they have something similar to andy's PACLED64, its called the LEDWIZ..

 i checked out the PACLED64 as well, I'm sure they work the same.

The software most folks use is called LEDBLINKY.
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #204 on: June 28, 2012, 07:42:21 pm »
Derp, that's right.  I paid for LEDBlinky a while back and should have known that. 

rablack97

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #205 on: June 28, 2012, 07:51:52 pm »
Quick question, since you brought up the point of controlling 12v leds?

Why can't you wire up your neon rings to PAC64 they are 12v, your rings have a switch to where they remain constant on.....

Wondering why your using leds, when the rings should work the same........
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #206 on: June 28, 2012, 08:12:27 pm »
Yes, I had originally wanted to try that.  Apparently though, I really wouldnt be albe to dim them and control them with the speed that the LED's work at.  Controlling the brightness on the LED's is just done through rapidly toggling the ground, so fast that the LED appears to dim, but in reality it is just the speed at which it is blinking.  You can't do that with the rings.  I want to have full control, so it soon became the wrong option.  Ive got some rings for sale if anyone wants them.  :-)

On another note, I have a smart strip.  It has 2 plugs that are always on though.  I want to use one of those to dish out some 12v current (namely for the green interior lights I just rigged up so I dont have to power up a power supply in order to flip on the light.) .  Can anyone tell me how I would go about taking a plug and turning it into viable 12v or 5v current that without buying yet another power supply? 

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #207 on: June 28, 2012, 10:22:04 pm »
Find a DC walwart adapter that outputs at 12v.  A couple of things to think about:  even though it says 12v on the adapter it will run at a higher voltage, make sure it is rated at enough current for your application.  Your led strips should have resistors already in them so as long as you give them 12-14 volts it should be fine.  In my experience, a wall adapter rated at 9 volts will usually put out close to 12V.  I have no idea for sure but I would guess that you need somewhere around 500mA to 1A rating.  Second hand stores usually have loads of miscellaneous wall adapters.

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update June 28 - Lighting
« Reply #208 on: June 28, 2012, 10:59:35 pm »
Cool, thanks jam. Another question .... I am wiring up my LED buttons right now for the PACLED. I had planned on doing one big daisy chain for the positive wire then running it to the PAC. Is that a flawed plan?  Are you only supposed to do a few, run it to the PAC on one of its positives, then start a new chain and run a few more on that chain to another positive pin on the PAC?  If the PAC is not capable of handling all of the 32 LEDs I have I'm the cp on one positive chain, maybe I can get the power off the molex connector from the power supply?

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #209 on: July 05, 2012, 12:01:11 pm »
I talked to Andy at Ultimarc and he said a daisy chain from one positive terminal would be just fine, in case anyone was wondering ...

Well, Im getting really close.  I have things operational and just about done.  Here is a pic from yesterday ..



The new monitor is in, and works.  All joysticks, the trackball and spinner are wired and functional.

Here is what is still pending.

- Side art and Rings
- LED wiring to PACLED64
- LED's for under the cabinet
- Frontend work (Add all the other emulators and support files)

I am going to knock out the LED's in the control panel tomorrow night.  I cannot wait to see this thing lit up!

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #210 on: July 05, 2012, 12:04:27 pm »
Looks awesome! (and right at home).
It's good to see the monitor working.  :)

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #211 on: July 05, 2012, 03:59:14 pm »
Looks fantastic!  Great build thread, and the result is a thing of beauty :)

TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #212 on: July 06, 2012, 12:53:15 am »
Thanks Seith. It has come together way better than I couldd have imagined. Now I'm working through all of the fun little details that will really bring all of this together.

I'm debating the idea of routing out some alien symbols in the base of the control panel, covering them with white plexi on the inside and throwing some LEDs behind them. I think it would look cool, but am being cautious in this phase of the game. It looks really kick ass now, I don't want to spoil things by going too far.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #213 on: July 06, 2012, 03:16:17 am »
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140750792176?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
this should give you control over your rings its remote control and has 3 options on off or dimmer level :D that should work fine :)
apart from that ide say leave the machine how it is if anywhere put the led alien head idea in the base :P

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #214 on: July 06, 2012, 04:08:47 am »
I'm debating the idea of routing out some alien symbols in the base of the control panel, covering them with white plexi on the inside and throwing some LEDs behind them.

Did a double take when I read this thinking that you meant on your CP surface where the buttons and joysticks are.  :o   Then I re-read it.   :lol

If you're referring to the ~4" tall vertical black sides that support the control panel, it might work, but I'm not sure how much "bang for your buck" you'll get out of it.  Seems like the CP overhang will block the view for anyone standing fairly close.

Right now, your art and side rings are between the heights of the CP and the marquee -- in the normal line of sight for most people.

The proposed symbols may bring people's eyes further down which can draw attention to the fact that the kick panel is plain, so you embellish that which can draw attention to the fact that the lower part of the side panels are plain. . .

Part of what makes artists great is knowing what not to include.

I think it's already a masterpiece.   :applaud:


Scott

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #215 on: July 06, 2012, 09:50:02 am »
I'm debating the idea of routing out some alien symbols in the base of the control panel, covering them with white plexi on the inside and throwing some LEDs behind them.

I think it's already a masterpiece.   :applaud:


Scott

+1 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
   

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #216 on: July 06, 2012, 10:00:05 am »
Thanks!  I was drinking last night when I wrote that.  Im not carving anything into my box!

Gizmo, I need to have control of the rings from the PC and time it in with the rest of the LED's, so I am going to be running 12v off of a molex connector, and the N's from the PACLED and throwing LED strips around the lights.  I have a second PACLED that I am using strictly for the lights in the cabinet (Marquee, rings, under the cab) so I should be good. 


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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #217 on: July 06, 2012, 10:19:56 am »
One thing I meant to bring up ...

My IPac4 is acting goofy since I hit program on it a few days ago.  Now I have multiple buttons with the same letter.  Does anyone know if there is a way to reassign the keys that each input on the board represents through the WinIPAC software?  Basically reprogramming the IPAC itself?  I know there is a way to do this with a PS2 keyboard using the method here:  http://www.ultimarc.com/interact.html , but I am thinking somehow I jacked it up in the WinIPAC software and would like to fix it there.  If I didnt do it, then something may be goofy with my card.


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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #218 on: July 06, 2012, 10:24:12 am »
Thanks!  I was drinking last night when I wrote that.  Im not carving anything into my box!

Whew. . . .  Glad your vision is clear again.

For a bit there it looked like you were thinking about making a putty nose.   :laugh2:


Scott

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 5 - 95% Completed
« Reply #219 on: July 06, 2012, 10:37:25 am »
That was the funniest ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- ever, Le Chuck is a profound sage ...


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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #220 on: July 17, 2012, 10:55:50 am »
Well I am getting really close to being done, I just need to get my empty rings on the side cut and work out a few remaining details, so time for an update!

Hardware
- The cabinet is done, barring the empty holes in the side which I have gone over.  They are a little expensive to get cut, so I havent quite gotten around to them yet, but soon.

- I still need to run some green LED's under the cabinet for the underglow.

- I think I might put a single green LED or two on the underside of the control panel for more ambient light.

- There are still 2 LED's in the control panel that need to be lit up.  I like the idea of having lit joysticks, but the problem is when you twist the joystick while playing, the wires get wrapped up.  So you need to check it frequently.  I also need to light up the trackball.

- My fans on the motherboard are a little loud, so I will probably look for some silent replacements.

Software

-  MAME is pretty much configured.  I am now using groovymame, which seems to run a little smoother with my Makvision 29" monitor.  It also has the highscore.dat support which is a must.

-  MALA - I have been working on the skin for this, and bounced back and forth between a few ideas.  I didnt want to get too crazy, because the interface should be simple to use.  I have seen a lot of good designers put out crappy interfaces that looked cool, but were too complicated.  Simple = Cleaner & Easier to use.  So here is what I have ended up with:



I am going to change the cabinet out for a TV Set and the console for the console games, a computer for the PC games, etc.

- Emulators - So far I have MAME, NES, SNES, N64 and Daphne set up.  I will need to finish out the rest of the ones I plan on using.

Here is a video I shot yesterday of it in action: 
MAME Abduction Gameplay

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #221 on: July 17, 2012, 11:17:52 am »
This is turning out great! I love the Mala layout as well!  :cheers:


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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #222 on: July 17, 2012, 11:34:32 am »
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

Also on the lit j-stiks the wire doesn't get twisted as the led is soldered into the top of the shaft.  The only issue I've had is the ball top twisting loose at times, but a little epoxy or super glue would fix that...

I've used my stiks for over 3 years on my rig and my wires haven't twisted yet.


 :cheers:
   

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #223 on: July 17, 2012, 11:41:03 am »
- There are still 2 LED's in the control panel that need to be lit up.  I like the idea of having lit joysticks, but the problem is when you twist the joystick while playing, the wires get wrapped up.  So you need to check it frequently.  I also need to light up the trackball.

Randy and Bryan both have what you need for this one:

GGG version is the "SlipWire™ Swiveling Interconnect for Rotatable Controls"


Paradise Arcade version is the "Ultimate Arcade Slip Ring"


How well do they work? - Seeing is believing.
Rotating Circuits



Scott

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #224 on: July 17, 2012, 01:50:26 pm »
I understand you're probably still tweaking things, but just in case you didn't know,
you can eliminate everything in parenthesis from the game names by going to:
Options>GUI>Options>Gamelists/Misc
and checking "Remove brackets from names (On The Fly)"

It's also possible to right justify the gamelist and make it curved to match the curve of the  box it's in, if so inclined.
(transformation=round for the gamelist in malalayout)

Looking good!
 :cheers:

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #225 on: July 17, 2012, 01:56:12 pm »

Randy and Bryan both have what you need for this one:

GGG version is the "SlipWire™ Swiveling Interconnect for Rotatable Controls"


Paradise Arcade version is the "Ultimate Arcade Slip Ring"


Freaking sweet!  I dont care what anyone says, those wires are getting twisted.  I have barely had mine functional for 2 weeks now and I already had a big knot almost in one of them.  So these will work out well.

I understand you're probably still tweaking things, but just in case you didn't know,
you can eliminate everything in parenthesis from the game names by going to:
Options>GUI>Options>Gamelists/Misc
and checking "Remove brackets from names (On The Fly)"

It's also possible to right justify the gamelist and make it curved to match the curve of the  box it's in, if so inclined.
(transformation=round for the gamelist in malalayout)

Thanks.  I did know about the brackets, but I am leaving them in while I am working on my playable list.  It helps make sure I can tell the difference between the versions before I add it to my "Abduction" list.

I did not think of the rounded list option though.  That is kind of what I was trying to do with the size gradient, but it sounds like this will actually work a lot better.  I will give it a try!

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #226 on: July 17, 2012, 05:07:12 pm »
Quote
Freaking sweet!  I dont care what anyone says, those wires are getting twisted.  I have barely had mine functional for 2 weeks now and I already had a big knot almost in one of them.  So these will work out well.

It may be how the jstik was made, I got my hollow shaft and leds from a guy in Germany and I haven't had any problems.  I guess I'm confused on why you would be twisting your stick that much anyway to get a knot.  The led in my shaft doesn't move and has enough clearance in the ball top to where when the ball top spins or loosens the the led won't move.  Only thing I have to do at times is tighten the ball top.....So I guess it's all in how your sticks were made.  Epyx turned me on to the guy and has the same sticks as well and I dont think has a twisting problem.....Either way it's gonna cost you some extra cash to fix your issue and those gadgets seem to be the way to go.
« Last Edit: July 17, 2012, 05:09:33 pm by rablack97 »
   

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TheShaner

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #227 on: July 18, 2012, 10:06:24 am »
It's definitely how the stick was made.  it twists a little easily and with play eventually gets twisted a lot.  Where the wires come out of the bottom is also filled with some silicone, holding the wires to the bottom of the shaft.  So if the shaft twists a little, the wires do too.  Flaw in design perhaps.  Regardless, I have some of the twister doo dahs on order now.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 20 - 96% Done - LED's Completed
« Reply #228 on: July 20, 2012, 10:25:36 pm »
Got the LED's finished today.



Here's a quick video. 
MAME Abduction - LED Testing


I havent done much configuring yet, but it looks pretty sweet.  I think I am going to get a PACHID to run the cabinet lights.  The second PACLED64 cannot handle the load the light strings and marquee are going to draw.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #229 on: July 21, 2012, 11:26:26 am »
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

The glow at the bottom is pretty sweet
   

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #230 on: July 21, 2012, 12:15:33 pm »
Thanks black. I am going to dim it a bit once I get a PAC hooked up to it.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Completed
« Reply #231 on: July 21, 2012, 12:21:56 pm »
Sometimes my LEDs will all start blinking together. It looks as if it is an error of some sort.  When it happens, the lights will initially flicker a little, sporadically.   Then eventually go to a consistent on and off blink.  I think it may have something to do with the cheap USB hub I have it plugged in to.  I will probably try and go straight to the motherboard and see what happens.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2012, 07:17:43 pm by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Done - LEDs Complete
« Reply #232 on: July 21, 2012, 07:33:24 pm »
LOL, it's all that power......12v leds all over the place.....Light bill about to go sky high...... :laugh2:
   

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Done - LEDs Complete
« Reply #233 on: July 22, 2012, 06:40:46 pm »
Looks awesome!  :cheers:

There's a way to ditch the Mala "starting" box and replace it with an image of your own, but I haven't done it myself yet.
You could have "please wait while game is abducted" or something.  :lol

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Jul 17 - 96% Done - LEDs Complete
« Reply #234 on: July 23, 2012, 04:17:30 am »
You could have "please wait while game is abducted" or something.  :lol

Insert "probing" joke here.  :scared :o


Scott

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LEDs Rings and Sideart
« Reply #235 on: August 04, 2012, 06:53:13 pm »
Made a little more progress towards completion today...

Seeing as how I cannot control Neon lights as well as LED's, I decided to nix the rings and come up with my own version. Here's what I did:

First I printed out the artwork on some vinyl meant for car graphics



Then ordered two plexiglass circles from ebay for 4 bucks each



I adhered the art to the plexi and this was the finished product



I had two rings cut out of white plexi.  The outer circumference was the same as the black plexi, then a quarter inch in a circle was cut out of them.



I glued those together then wrapped an LED strip around that




Once done there, I mounted to the inside of the cab and wired it up.  Heres the end result:





It came out pretty sweet.  I actually like being able to see the individual lights almost through the white.  It makes the ring look ribbed. It's a nice effect.

I just need to wire them to my PAC now so I can get control over them.

Lastly, this is just a neat pic.

« Last Edit: August 06, 2012, 10:42:42 am by TheShaner »

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #236 on: August 05, 2012, 04:00:31 pm »
They look the nuts they do.  And best of all you can control what they do :)

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #237 on: August 05, 2012, 06:24:02 pm »
Fantastic.... that is all.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #238 on: August 06, 2012, 02:00:49 am »
Thanks, they really do look kick ass in person. I prefer them over the neon for sure, personal preferance though. Definitely a good alternative to neon if you Are going that route.   The control of neon vs led seals the deal for me.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #239 on: August 06, 2012, 06:23:42 pm »
Nice Shaner, that looks completely badass. I've got a few spools of the RGB LED strip and I'm still schemeing as to where I'll be using them.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #240 on: August 06, 2012, 09:37:59 pm »
Thanks Griff.  I often stare at it with wonder and awe, thinking, I built that $hit?  Crazy!

Are you going tube or LCD on yours?

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #241 on: August 06, 2012, 11:44:49 pm »
Are you going tube or LCD on yours?

Double LCDs baby (Triple if I manage to pull off the touchscreen in the controller)

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #242 on: August 07, 2012, 12:12:13 am »
That's right, I remember reading that now.  Cant wait to see it come together.

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Re: MAME Abduction- Update - Aug 4 - 97% Done - LED Rings and Sideart
« Reply #243 on: August 07, 2012, 08:07:05 am »
The cabinet looks great The Shaner, but I wanted to add that you appear to either be a professional camera man, or were in a past life.  It was like I was watching that Koyaanisqatsi documentary ;D 

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