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matrix00:
What would you suggest is the best type of solder to use on jamma pcbs and what type pf soldering tip and iron?



Thanks again for all the help.
Dawgz Rule:
Any soldering iron with a pointed tip should do the trick but I would recommend the following:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_357336-273-WPS18MP_0__?productId=3402986&Ntt=soldering+iron&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dsoldering%2Biron&facetInfo=

It is a good soldering iron and I find it easier to use than the cheap $14 dollar soldering irons.

As far as solder goes, Tin/Lead solder is the most common and will work fine.  If you can find it in a 63/37 ratio, it is ideal.  This is what we used to solder electronics when I worked in nuclear power and is also what Nasa uses. It has a lower melting point and is a little easier as far as setting goes.  60/40 will work as well and is less expensive. 

In both cases, ensure you are using rosin core solder.  This helps with the wicking of the solder by removing impurities and will also help avoid cold solder joints.  Do not used an acid based core as this is corrosive to electronics.

Hope this helps
Paul Olson:
I use a Hakko iron, and it works great. I usually just use the 60/40 solder from Radio Shack.

Some of the solder on those old PCBs is really hard to melt. Add new solder to it and it will melt easier. Then remove it all with a solder sucker.
matrix00:
Thanks for they great info. I ordered the one from lowes.
Franco B:
I just got a new Hakko yesterday (FX-888), awesome bit of kit  :)

But yes, get yourself some leaded solder. It's banned for general use here in the UK but we can still get it.

As Paul said add a touch solder to the tip of your iron before soldering, this helps to transfer the heat much more easily than with a 'dry' iron.

Also, get yourself some liquid flux. It removes oxides formed during heating and you are much more likely to end up with a nice shiny, concave joint.
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