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Joy Stick Length, Mounting Depth, Cut Out Diameter, etc.
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truepusk:
I have U360s and I am working on putting together my final MAME design.  For my prototypes I just top mounted the U360s.  I don't know that that is considered optimal.

I'm not sure what the best design is in terms of:

* Joy Stick Height/Mounting Depth
* "Cut Out" Diameter (not sure if this is the correct term, but what size of hole you leave in the wood to restrict joystick movement)
* Ball versus oblong joystick cap (not sure what the correct term for the later is)
* Height of Glass above the joystick, i.e. clearance (I'm doing it cocktail table style)<edit:>

* Restrictor Plates (I don't have restrictor plates currently - I suppose that depends heavily on the type of games you want to play)</edit>


So here is what I'm wondering...  are there any good consensus guidelines for the above or is it all about personal preference?  Is this something that I have to mock up and try out myself?  I'd be open to any good threads or search terms discussing this subject in detail.  As an aside, I found a few threads that touch on this subject and I will continue to read through them while looking for additional input.
Afterburner:
A mockup made from cardboard and dowels goes a looooooong way on control placement and layout.

I have my joysticks mounted beneath the panel.  I routed out the MDF of the CP to allow a good fit for the joysticks.  Then I bored a hole for the stick to go through.  In my case I have Ikari Warrior style rotary 8-way sticks and I wasn't able to take the top off the stick.  So the hole size in the CP had to be large enough to pass the stick top through.  I think it was a 1" diameter hole.

I used countersunk machine screws to mount the sticks with nuts underneath.  The artwork covers the screws and the clear acrylic sheet went over the artwork.  The buttons on top of the acrylic are the only thing that hold it in place.

Restrictor plates are nice, but I don't have them.  I'm in the process of adding a super cheap (i.e. I took it out of a broken kids toy) dedicated 4-way to the upper deck of my CP.  Probably less of an option for a cocktail style cab.

As for clearance to the glass....again, a mockup is an invaluable tool there.
truepusk:
I'm considering the octagonal  restrictor plates after reading this thread:

 http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110258.0
truepusk:
I'll have to search around for some other threads about control mock ups to understand how people are doing them.  For my "prototype" I used wood for everything.  I'm not sure how you would use cardboard and dowels.
Paul Olson:
I used hardboard for my mockups. It is stronger than cardboard, but still really quick to drill and cut through. It is sold with the 24" x 48" plywood and MDF at Home Depot. It is only 1/8" thick, so really easy to cut.
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