Arcade Collecting > Pinball
Gameplan Sharpshooter-Roger takes the Girls to the Beauty Shop-update 9/20
TopJimmyCooks:
After consulting some board repair guys, a plumber and a proctologist the sharpshooter board repair is a non-starter. I'm on the list for an echo lake board, supposed to be mfgd in February. To the tune of $249. :dizzy: Maybe I should go look for donors.
If you guys are BS'ing me and this game sucks to play i'm coming after you. >:D
TopJimmyCooks:
I'll do some soldering on it, but there's a couple of chips on there that the echo lake guy said would be very difficult to track down if they're shot. One of which appears to be right in the area over the power connector that got hot during the fire. If I can find a good donor type board for chips I'll move the rom's over. Another thing, the current fix for the clearly damaged reset section is a modification requiring cutting traces, different chips, etc. I understand it but frankly I'm not experienced enough to do a board repair final exam right now.
Plus I just want to know the F'er works before I invest more time in buffing it up.
Does it drain off the low pop bumpers a lot? or do you just manage it with the right flipper when it goes that way? How often does the 50K roll over lane come in to play?
TopJimmyCooks:
Just wrote a big check for the echo lake board. Ordered $50 worth of misc parts. I had to get rubbers at a minimum, so went ahead and got everything it needed. Hopefully it comes together and plays here in a few days. Then, off to the races with cabinet respray, playfield touch up and clear and cleaning everything up.
Yes, I know it's not going to be worth what I've got it it but it will help me learn and decide if I want to do other restores on higher value machines.
TopJimmyCooks:
Installed the new MPU, replaced the burned connector, tested power supply per Clay's directions, found it within specs. Fired it up.
The problem I have is that pressing the start game button seems to do the same thing as the coin door test switch - almost as if they were shorted together. Rather than starting a game it starts audit mode/solenoid test, etc. I checked for any crazy hacking/freeplay mods, etc. in the cabinet and everything looks stock. I'll have to start tracing/isolating that. Coin up switches aren't working but I've got the mpu set on freeplay so it can be attacked later.
The good news is that when I go through the audits/tests most everything seems to work, mostly. GI, controlled lamps, solenoids, sounds are at least basically functioning on test. I can't really play a game, though. Something is weird with the displays controls as well. P 2 and 3 flash constantly and some other inconsistencies, not sure if any scoring ever showed on the displays.
Project continues. Any ideas on the start button would be appreciated.
TopJimmyCooks:
Ok, got it to start and play after a fashion. I unplugged the two nonworking displays and was able to restart the machine and get a game to start. added credits by cutting the wires off the coinup switches and shorting them together. (both coin switches are kaput). I replaced the coin door test switch and it's diode out of paranoia, but that problem is further upstream. The removed diode was within specs after testing outside the machine. Visually checked for obvious bent switch/fish paper, etc. problems. Reseated the few connectors I hadn't messed with already.
It plays normally, scores, etc. until at some point the combination of switches hit stops the flippers from working. Usually related to the 7 bank drop targets, but of course when I reboot, start and manually drop them all it keeps playing. sometimes when the flippers die and drain it kicks out another ball, sometimes that's it. sometimes, after the ball drains it slowly increments the score 100pts at a time until you turn it off. Now, I can't get the test switch to enter audit mode. I also notice stuff like if I hit the rollovers at the top lanes, the closest pop bumper fires.
I'm ready to go after switches but I'll need to rig a temp test switch in at the mpu or something, since the coin door area is obviously a problem, and I can't reliably get to the test mode. Any tests/checks of switches that can be done without being in the switch test mode?
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