Arcade Collecting > Pinball
Gameplan Sharpshooter-Roger takes the Girls to the Beauty Shop-update 9/20
TopJimmyCooks:
It's got a new MPU board from echo lake so I know its harness/playfield related. My next step is to install a temp coin door test switch since it's on the return that's shorted, making troubleshooting the rest of the switches a pain.
I just got a Mystic that works except for the sound card and 1 display so I'm sidetracked on SS right now while soldering on that. Roger's gonna have to wait a little longer for his adulation from the ladies. Cap kit for the mystic soundboard came today as a matter of fact.
TopJimmyCooks:
Ok, sharpshooter is kicking ---my bottom---. I have it running and playing by disconnecting the grounds to several problem switches. Anytime it hit these switches it would either kill the flippers/end the game or enter the test switch audits. they are not on the same return (1 switch from a drop target, one rollover, and one pop bumper).
So it will start a game, play, end, take credits, etc. However, there are still many issues besides the aforementioned switches. For example, one of the pop bumpers resets the score to zero every time it's hit. one switch is advancing the credits because its always got 50 credits (the max allowed) on it. the rollover lanes at the top set off the adjacent pop bumper. (likely these share a return).
I have tested all the related switch and coil diodes and haven't found one bad one. I've even gone ahead and replaced some, but the ones I take off test fine.
I know the switches are not always closed because no problem until they're hit. they're leaf switches, obviously and I can confirm make or break visually and with a meter.
I have not been able to find a black/white/ground strap that was not a good ground.
Since the coin door runs to a connector, I was able to test all that and tone it out to the connector and that's all fine.
I understand how a switch matrix works. I just don't know the next step in troubleshooting. My logic breaks down when I can't find something broken to replace (why I like working on boards I guess). The first switch on the list of switches in the switch test diagnostic is supposed to be # 010, but it shows 000, not associated with any switch. if i manually close switches it will usually but not always show the proper number on the display.
Any input or help would be majorly appreciated. :badmood:
TopJimmyCooks:
Ding ding ding - I did find a lamp wire that had pulled loose from a pop bumper and was laying against the frame of the bumper - after I disconnected it's switch. I'll reconnect both and see if that fixes that.
Will spend some time this weekend going through the grounds with a fine toothed comb. Thanks.
TopJimmyCooks:
OK, PBJ, got back to Roger and the girls today for a while. I rebuilt some connectors. I wiped off some coil dust while looking around the problem switches. came to the realization while looking at the problem switches' wire colors that all the wires are white and are all on Strobe 4.
Now that I know one wire/strobe is the problem, what should I do? I see two options
1. unloom the wire to check it out better/separate it from what ever it's grounding to to conflict with the test switch.
2. possibly just re-run the wires to these 8 switches and back to the connector, and abandon the f'd up wire.
or 3. PBJ's magic pinball genius solution that will take less than 5 minutes to do.
TopJimmyCooks:
The MPU is new so nothing to reflow. connectors are redone with new molex and housings (didn't have pins for the funky housings they used)
I'm going to disassemble all the switch stacks and double check them, and cut a few zip ties at the back of the cabinets. Then, if no dice, rewire strobe 4. I'm ready to know this thing works so I can get on with the spruce up and get the thing out of my workshop into the game room. I've got another kayak project to start and I need to get this thing out of the way.
I drew the vector stencil art in coreldraw (same as AI) if you want it I'll email it to you.
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