DARKADE - Imperial Bartop COMPLETE with VIDEO

[Le Chuck]

Okay, mounted the LED bar just under the front lip of the Marquee and things are working swell.  By the way, has anyone else noticed that the 3 middle pin outs to USB on the aimtrak LED bar aren't used?  It makes sense since the bar just provides IR, I snipped the middle three when I removed the bracket for a more low profile installation since the LED bar is no longer hidden within my bezel.  I ran the 5v and ground cables along the marquee brackets and wrapped the LED bar in black elec tape.  It's kinda ghetto but it's pretty much invisible.  I may come up with a better solution later but this one works quite well.  Having the LED bar so far in front of my screen hasn't been an issue as it's level with the top but I'll come up on the net if anything goes pear-shaped.   

[tsaylor]

Wow, impressive work! 

So much to like about this, from the artwork to all the little innovative details!  Love the switchable joystick tops, the servo, and the rotatable bezel.  The overall look with that art in place is just excellent.

[wizkid32]

Wow, impressive work! 

So much to like about this, from the artwork to all the little innovative details!  Love the switchable joystick tops, the servo, and the rotatable bezel.  The overall look with that art in place is just excellent.

I agree.  Most innovative.

[Le Chuck]

Thanks guys. I really wanted to push the limits on what a bartop can do without beefing the size. This build is almost two inches narrower than the weecade but copies the side panel measurements exactly. If I had to start over I wouldn't change much. Still want to do a worm gear driven joy rotation someday because gears are cool.  The screen rotation isn't "slick" per se but does show what you can do with a 17" monitor in a small area. I have had such a good time building it.

[yaksplat]

+1 for the worm gear

Awesome work man.  I wish i had your free time.

[dekar24k]

Just had to bump this one. Must be one of the sweetest bartops I've seen ever!

Great work! 

[SammyWI]

Thanks guys. I really wanted to push the limits on what a bartop can do without beefing the size. This build is almost two inches narrower than the weecade but copies the side panel measurements exactly. If I had to start over I wouldn't change much. Still want to do a worm gear driven joy rotation someday because gears are cool.  The screen rotation isn't "slick" per se but does show what you can do with a 17" monitor in a small area. I have had such a good time building it.

Turned out great.  Wish I worked as fast as you.    A worm drive would be a good choice for screen rotation.  (I design gears in my job, although I've never designed worm gears.)

[darthpaul]

Beautiful cabinet, you have taken it to the next level.

[wizkid32]

One would think that, given the guns, you would have lots of gun games...   

[Le Chuck]

One would think that, given the guns, you would have lots of gun games...  

I didn't list every ROM and every program. Don't worry there is plenty to keep me occupied. The guns are a feature, not the star attraction.  No sense in building a custom cab and stopping at the guns ya know.  

[TopJimmyCooks]

Le Chuck - how fun are the aimtracks with the smaller monitor?  can you do two shooters or do you bump elbows a lot?  I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to do them on a 19" display. 

[Le Chuck]

Le Chuck - how fun are the aimtracks with the smaller monitor?  can you do two shooters or do you bump elbows a lot?  I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to do them on a 19" display. 

It's not an issue if you have the standoff.  Just need to be back three or four feet and you're golden for two player.  The monitor size (17" on mine) hasn't bothered me at all, but I grew up on duckhunt with a tiny tv.  If I was doing a dedicated gun cab I wouldn't go small form but for occasional play it's great. 

[dekar24k]

Really sweet looking bartop you've made there man. Great woodworking skills also! 

[Le Chuck]

Really sweet looking bartop you've made there man. Great woodworking skills also! 

Thanks man, I just browsed your builds and WOW!  Great stuff.  I will probably steal the bartop base you did for Glory Days.  Good idea... until I have a bar for my bartop.   

[dekar24k]

Really sweet looking bartop you've made there man. Great woodworking skills also! 

Thanks man, I just browsed your builds and WOW!  Great stuff.  I will probably steal the bartop base you did for Glory Days.  Good idea... until I have a bar for my bartop.   

Thank you! Unfortunately my woodworking skills suck, so all my builds are based on kits or pre-built cabs. 

[RetroBorg]

Love the project, I'm really interested in how you rate the joystick?

[Gray_Area]

I'm not seeing how you connected the buttons of the flight stick. ?

[Le Chuck]

RetroBorg, both joys came from GGG.  The 8 way is the Spitfire and has good travel and I like the feel better than my HAPPs, but there isn't a huge improvement for playability, better reaction in the diagonals perhaps but nothing to write home about.  A bit easier to pull off some of the more advanced moves in the fighters for me, YMMV.  The Omni2 is fantastic.  If I had to do it again I would probably have installed dual Omni2's and added a second servo for auto switching (unlike the one's from Andy I don't think there is a way to get them in line switching off one servo - something to consider).  It has good travel and solid hits in both 4 and 8 way.  The hand candy balltops are great looking and really set off the CP.  I will eventually get a Mag Stick Plus to play around with, it would save me the trouble of servos, but I do like the longer throw I get on my current joys.  I really like sliding along the restrictor plate and don't play a bunch of analogs so I haven't felt the need for 360s.  Ideally I'll figure out how to do a physical restriction rotation from the top of the panel without a switch on an Omni2 but I'm not there yet.  I think it involves being able to stick my hand through the fourth dimension but my wife only let's me do that on my birthday.   

Gray Area, the flight stick is wireless.  It contains a gutted presentation pointer powered by a small 9v camera battery.  I wired the trigger and thumb button to the up and down (pg up/pg down) clicker buttons and then mapped those buttons in MAME for P1B1 and P1B2.  The USB dongle is just left in one of the USB hub ports inside the cab.  I wired a battery interrupt switch onto the face of the trigger stick and installed magnets in one ball top and the triggerstick so I can hot swap.  Basically when I want to play Zwackery, Tron, DOT, Satan's Hollow, etc I just yank the balltop off, plug on the trigger stick, and press the battery button.  I usually make the change while the game is loading and loose no time in getting rolling.  That's a great explanation if you meant how it's wired globally, if you meant locally I can take some better pictures but basically you solder a wire directly onto either side of the micro switch on the clicker and then solder those wires onto the boards that came with the flight stick for each button.  I stared at the board to figure out which side was COM on the clicker (the left as facing the buttons) and then wired appropriately, though it probably doesn't matter. 

Dekar24k, kit cabs or not - not everybody can end up with your results. 

[Knievel]

Wow, just beautiful. Very professional finished product.

I really need to try a bartop one of these days.

[darthpaul]

Software Setup:

Assuming you're using XP and MaLa:  Unscrew the servo arm from the servo as the unit will auto center when you first hook it up.  Install the Maestro program and plug in your controller to the computer.  Maestro should see the Servo.  If not then make sure that the servo is plugged into the controller and that you remembered to jumper the 5v power out to the servo power pin on the board (this servo listed can run off USB just fine but many can't so that's why they make it optional).  If you can see and move your servo then we're in business.  If not please use the Pololu servo forum and those guys will get you up and running ricky-tick.  From center screw your control arm back on with the restrictor plate set between 4way and 8way.  Enable your servo on the status tab and use the channel settings tab to set your limits.  I used speed as 100 and started moving the servo limit 100 units at a time for left and right of center for the servo.  Then use the slide bar on the status tab and and see how far the restrictor moves right and left.  Continue to adjust until you are smoothly transitioning from 4way to 8way.  In theory the servo should shut off right after it reaches the limit but it took a lot of fiddling to get mine there.

Now go into DOS and ensure that USCCMD is in your path.  If not double click on the USCCMD.exe in the Pololu system folder and it should add the utility.  USCCMD only controls the servo when Maestro isn't so you'll need to disable the servo and close completely out of maestro.  USCCMD is pretty easy to use.  What is nice is that the channel settings from Maestro are preserved so you can tell USCCMD to move to extremes and if you set your channels then the arm will only move within it's range.  

The batch files I used look like this:

"4way"
usccmd --servo 0,1000

and

"8way"
usccmd --servo 0,8000
  
That's it.  Your numbers will likely differ.  If you only have one servo you don't need to worry about scripting, naming your servo, or targets.  Just tell the controller move left and right and because USCCMD is in your path you don't even have to use a file location.  

Once you have that working smoothly open up the MaLa configuration menu, go to plugins, and tell JoyChoose where to find your two batch files.  Restart MaLa and when you run games you should hear your servo switch or confirm setting then power off.  

If the servo continues to buzz it is because your channels are not set right or your hardware connection has too much or too little play in the servo arm and isn't getting to the target.  Address the issue until fixed or you determine that the arm is as good as you can get it and is just going to buzz.  If you reach that point there is a very simple addition to your batch files to get the servo to shut off.  This will save your servo from burn-out.  You can do it several different way, but basically you're executing a wait command and then a target 0 command in USCCMD.  Target 0 disables the servo without having to kill power.  This was plainly written several places in Pololu and in the Maestro software but took me weeks to identify... which wasn't helped by a Pololu admin saying it couldn't be done.   My batch commands now look like this

Code: [Select]

"4way"
@echo off
usccmd --servo 0,4000
sleep 2
usccmd --servo 0,0

I also tried it with TIMEOUT, Pause, and a Ping to nowhere string and all worked satisfactorily to give the servo time to hit the target then shut off.

One last issue that I ran into is that the Servo Controller didn't like my Onn USB hubs and started throwing all kinds of error codes so I had to give it a dedicated port, it was still spotty after that so I installed a powered USB hub by Belkin ($19) and it's purring like a kitten, as are my light guns and guitar controller so definitely worth the cash.  Something to consider.  

This project is not easy and I wanted to give up multiple times.  So glad I didn't and hopefully this will help somebody else tackle the great mod.  Huge thanks to Terrahwk, DarthPaul, and DaOld Man for his awesome plug-in!  

<edited to update Batch commands on how to shut off your servo and auxiliary power recommendation for the servo>

I would just like to add one thing, if you are using more than one Maestro servo controller like I am, you will need to add the Device command.
USCCMD --DEVICE 0001430 --SERVO 1,6000
You would use your Maestro device number in place of 0001430 in the code above.

[Le Chuck]

Thanks again for all the positive feedback everybody.  I am having to make a few software tweaks and will update with any hurdles that are overcome.  Current issue is ye olde USB mapping in MAME for removable devices issue.  Basically, if I leave my guns plugged in all the time I'm good to go, but as soon as I unjack to play some Frets on Fire, or just not have the guns hanging there, I have to point MAME back at them when I plug them back in.  I'll be working with DRVenture's Controller Remap Utility to get it straightened out.  I'm also getting some odd interfence from JoytoKey in Frets on Fire.  I think MALA is turning the app on too often, or its not being closed properly.  Should be an easy fix, just have to drag out a keyboard. 

I got in my vinyl button decals from Pongo today and they are slick.  They're all installed and looking great.  I will get picks up of that shortly.  They really are a nice touch. 

[kb84]

This is such an awesome build. I love the theme and attention to detail here. 

[RetroBorg]

Thanks for the feedback on the joysticks Le Chuck, I think I may look at some Omni2's for a project coming up.

Look forward to seeing your pics with Pongo's decals.

[greystone]

I really like this build, it's a great inspiration for me! I am now sold on going the extra mile to make my screen rotatable. I may have missed it in your posts, can you expand on how this is setup? Looks like a thin (1/2"?) MDF bezel is attached to the monitor, and a plexi cover is on top of that? Is the MDF glued to the monitor?

What's the process for rotating it?

Thanks!
Paul

[DaOld Man]

I really like this build, it's a great inspiration for me! I am now sold on going the extra mile to make my screen rotatable.

Sweet! Another rotate project, good luck on it, and cant wait to see it.

[Johns Uncle]

Thats very impressive congrats on a beautiful bartop 

[Louis Tully]

.

[DaOld Man]

Great job LeChuck!! Love the way this project turned out!
 

[Le Chuck]

Thanks for all kudos guys.  I couldn't have done it without being pulled kicking and screaming by this community!

So Update:  Darkade now switches from 8way to 4way while playing TRON so no more zigzag ---That which is odiferous and causeth plants to grow--- on light bikes!  All I have left is to take a few more screenshots so it does it when played vertically. 

Took a video, it is here.  It should answer any burning questions but if not ask and I will do my best to clearly explain what it does and why I chose that way of doing it. 

[Le Chuck]

I really like this build, it's a great inspiration for me! I am now sold on going the extra mile to make my screen rotatable. I may have missed it in your posts, can you expand on how this is setup? Looks like a thin (1/2"?) MDF bezel is attached to the monitor, and a plexi cover is on top of that? Is the MDF glued to the monitor?

What's the process for rotating it?

Thanks!
Paul

You can see my bassackwards process in the video.     Only way I could figure to do it in a Weecade - which was the point of the build (well one of them), to prove it can be done.  The bezel is 3/4" and is routed down to a 1/4 for the screen drop in.  No glue, not brackets, held in by the fact that it barely fit.  I had planned on adding corner brackets on the back but it wasn't necessary so I left them off.  The Bezel itself is square and fits between two runners and sits on a piece of angle iron, that way I can take it out and rotate it any which way for a clean fit.  In the back are two brackets up top and I use a bar to hold the monitor in from the back - kinda like the locking system on a castle gate. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

I really like the display switch setup.  gets the job done while keeping it simple.  I give approval to move the project from the workshop to the house. 

[Vigo]

I've been following your progress, I really have to say this is an all around impressive build. From the artwork to the attention to detail and impressive features, I have to say that this is hands down one of the most impressive bartops I have seen. 

[Saicho]

This really looks like an awesome build, Le Chuck! Great job on it all and thanks for the inspiration ;-)

[Well Fed Games]

This is why I feel that MAME cabs can be a work of art, beyond just a venue to play games. Incredible work, visually and technically! 

[Le Chuck]

Thanks guys, lot of love in the room  

I really wanted to meld several other builds I've seen on here into a small nice to look at package.  There weren't very many new ideas (I think sawing the smartstrip in half was it  ) but I did try to improve on/customize a few ideas that were already floating around.  They all came together pretty well - the hotswap trigger stick might be what I'm most proud of on the build, well that combined with the ingame 8way to 4way, that was new.  

I just hope my next cab can build on what I've learned and accomplished here.    

[TopJimmyCooks]

How did you do the Tron in-game switch? Joychoose is probably normally looking at controls.ini, which doesn't give 8way v/s 4 way for tron. 

[Le Chuck]

How did you do the Tron in-game switch? Joychoose is probably normally looking at controls.ini, which doesn't give 8way v/s 4 way for tron.  

Right you are, Tron is an 8way in the controls.ini so I went hunting for suggestions and Nitz came to the rescue with a great image-search AHK script.  The development of the project is here.  In short a script runs in the background and hunts for some very small images that are unique to Tron and the lightbikes level.  When it sees these images the script calls my servo.  So far I have had no issues with this script/hack and I am running a fairly low speed system.  I was going to set the script to only begin running when I run Tron but is was so smooth in testing that I left it in the start-up folder and it runs all the time.  

<edit for syntax>

[TopJimmyCooks]

Holy crap that's awesome.  That is a great solution and Nitz is a heck of a guy and to implement it. 

[kahlid74]

Great looking bartop.  The graphics blend well and I like the design of controls.  Any reason the second player only has 2 buttons and not three?

[Le Chuck]

Great looking bartop.  The graphics blend well and I like the design of controls.  Any reason the second player only has 2 buttons and not three?

It's not exactly a two player bartop, it's two player capable.  Since I only have one 8way to 4way stick I tossed a few buttons over to that stick to fill a gaming gap and add limited 2 player support.  Thanks for the kuddos