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Jamma Extender Harness Issue w/ 6-in-1 switcher
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BobA:
Cannot comment on jamma extentions but your -5V supply may have been knocked out by plugging in your 3 boards.   Test the -5V on your PS with a volt meter to make sure it is OK.  The -5V is used by the sound circuit on alot of boards.  Your remote switches power to the board you select but the -5V is jumpered to all the boards and is not switched going by the mod posted on utube.
Savannan:
Ok, Let me tell you what I did, I can't take credit for this design but its the best out there for PCB removal and stability...but mind you..you will have to purchase those cheap ass Jamma Extenders and will have to solder better wires to ground/power and a few other missing wires.




- Gut the cabinet.

- Determine how large you want your shelf's to be.  Mine are roughly 21x15.5  , Take your largest PCB and add about 3 or so inches per side to determine size of shelf.

- Cut 4 rails the depth of the shelf.  I custom cut a piece of 2x2 to  .75 x .75 inch wood for shelf supports.

- Attach 1 rail on each side under the monitor. Make sure they are even and level.  DONT SCREW DOWN RAILS THRU YOUR CAB AND RUIN THE SIDE ART

- Measure and cut out your desired upper self.

- Make .5 x .5 inch SLIDE rails and center accordingly on your upper shelf with leaving gap for your slide in board and secure (I used a Trim nail gun)



- Secure the top shelf to the side rails.  

- Do the same for the bottom shelf and rails...but don't secure the bottom to the side rails..you might have to get to the bottom of the cabinet to work on your power supply.
-
 Make sure the distance between UPPER and LOWER shelf is enuff for your PCB + 3 or so inches per side of PCB

- Once you have the upper and lower together..measure and cut the SLIDE board.

- Paint if you wish and youre done.




The reason why I like this style VS just popping in PCB into the Jamma 6 in 1 are:

- Looks great
- If you need to pull a PCB your not messing with the 6 in 1 or banging the other PCBS, just slide out the shelf.
- PCB's are very secure
- If you have a daughter board/hard drive/sound board that is separated from the MAIN PCB, you the exterior walls of the cabinet to secure them for more room.

Since I have a Multi-MK machine, MK1 And MK2 came with a sound board that isnt part of the MAIN PCB.  I attach the main PCB to a Slider and the sound board to the inside portion of the cabinet. Once I get all my MK PCB, the order of my Sliders will be:

|SOUND BOARD      MK1|MKK3           UMK3|MK4      |MK2   SOUNDBOARD|     --->   |=WALL OR SLIDER


I really hope you take about 2 hours and do your self a favor and make something like this for your cabinet.  You wont regret it.  Its so much easier to work on.

Good luck, if there is anything else let me know...

Sav..

Ps.  Here is a sneak peek of my Multi-MK.  I havent officially announced the completion of this project..but It will be soon (just need MK3 board now)












Savannan:
Also...

About your sound issue.   If your PCB that is in question is plugged into directly into your JAMMA harness and the SOUND works, and it doesn't work when its connected to the 6 in 1...

Two things...

1 - The 6 in 1 is robbing the power to your pcb...in other words, Do what BobA said..check your Power supply.

2- you might have to do the -5v mod to it.  goto you tube and look at this video



I have to give TONS OF PROPS to YourMKArcadeSource on you tube.  If it wasn't for him, we wouldn't be where we are today with all  the MULTI-MK cabs out there.  :applaud:
KCW:
Nice! Many thanks for the detailed message. Your cabinet looks AWESOME. The shelves are amazing. I may end up doing exactly what you said.

The sound issue is definitely concerning. The thing is, jammaboards offers to do the -5V mod for you, and I opted for this and paid for all of the slots to be modded. Slots one and two had perfectly fine sound, but when I added another board to slot 6 then all of a sudden none of the sound would work. I can't experiment with it any more until this weekend of later unfortunately. I just hope I didn't somehow damage the board.

As far as extension cables. I contacted Mike's Arcade and it looks like the extension cables that they sell are much better quality. They cost a little more, but Mike's Arcade tells me that they make them all on site. I decided to order a few and we'll see how they work out. Hopefully I'll be able to get my 6 PCB's running in my 6-in-1 sometime in the next week or so. We'll see, I'll definitely post when I do (hopefully I won't have any more problems).

Thanks again for the advice and awesome pics of your cabinet. Very inspirational!

THANKS!  :)
Savannan:
I can comment on JammaBoards.com and Ebay jamma extenders...They are identical. CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP

They are cheap in price, and quality...but they work(barely)   They have 1 - 20 or 18 guage wire for power(12v,5v,-5v)/ground each..which severely sucks.  It may show the voltage correctly, but those wires CANNOT CARRY THE CURRENT...I thought my Jamma 6 in 1 was fried , did some reseaching and found out it was those cheap ass extenders that were screwing up with my boards.  On the extenders, you have to de-solder the power/gnd wires and install your own with heavier gauge wire(I used 14g)...not too mention that you have to solder in about 5-6 additional wires for the other functions to work on your PCB.

Personally, I dont know why Jammaboards.com is selling something so cheap what hardly even works..It makes them look bad.  At least they should have a ECONOMY/HEAVY DUTY Jamma extenteders to choose from.... but they dont.

Here is a pic of my modified extender with liquid electrical tape over the contacts.



(Yep, my pooch helped too)

I guess the old saying goes "YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR"

If I were you, I would buy Mikes version...but for the DIY'ers JammaBoards/EBay versions are OK, but be prepare to mod it thou.

Sav
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